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    Thread: Caddy TDI build

    1. Member jpskate8's Avatar
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      08-22-2012 03:21 PM #26
      Quote Originally Posted by 8v-of-fury View Post
      You need to put a jumper on the fuse box to those two pin locations and leave those plugs unhooked. They are unneeded I think. What do they go to in your harness?
      Hey do you know if the the jumpers are needed on a TDI from a B4... I see alot about B3 needing this done is this true or no?

      Thanks
      Josh

    2. 08-24-2012 12:26 PM #27
      this may be quite helpful in your wiring

      http://www.a2resource.com/electrical/CE2.html

    3. Member jpskate8's Avatar
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      08-24-2012 01:53 PM #28
      Quote Originally Posted by 35i 2000 View Post
      this may be quite helpful in your wiring

      http://www.a2resource.com/electrical/CE2.html


      Thanks!

      Josh

    4. Member jpskate8's Avatar
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      09-01-2012 08:44 PM #29
      Update on the build....


      So I did end up bending a couple valves. Head was pulled and everything is fixed and she is all timed to the T...


      Just need to Finnish up wiring, and a ton of ods and end in the engine bay.



      I got this tranny mount kit from the Caddy shop over in the UK, having a bit of an issue with the rear not reaching the motor mount? very strange, and annoying.....


      I also got my H20 pump pulley and I think the correct size belt. I will get that all on tomorrow AM!
      Last edited by jpskate8; 09-01-2012 at 09:12 PM.

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      09-01-2012 08:53 PM #30
      Oh well, live and learn.

      I just noticed that you have the better GQ ECU. Seeing that tells me that your 5th injector has likely been disabled, which is good. You'll also want to either delete the EGR (it'll thow the CEL) or alter the MAF reading with VCDS, so the intake won't get clogged.

      I'm surprised you bought that mount, especially from the UK.

      -Todd

    6. Member jpskate8's Avatar
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      09-01-2012 09:09 PM #31
      Quote Originally Posted by ToddA1 View Post
      Oh well, live and learn.

      I just noticed that you have the better GQ ECU. Seeing that tells me that your 5th injector has likely been disabled, which is good. You'll also want to either delete the EGR (it'll thow the CEL) or alter the MAF reading with VCDS, so the intake won't get clogged.

      I'm surprised you bought that mount, especially from the UK.

      -Todd
      Thanks Tod, ive been thinking about the EGR delete. I did see what happens inside that intake manifold near the EGR. Very nasty!

      The mounts, I wasn't going to do, but made some cash off some parts so I splurged a bit on those. Would have been more worth it if I wasn't having an issue with the rear....

      Josh

    7. Member jpskate8's Avatar
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      09-01-2012 09:15 PM #32

    8. Member jpskate8's Avatar
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      09-01-2012 09:24 PM #33
      A few shots of the truck, all these picts the truck had a 2.0 ABA bottom end and 1.8 head.















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      09-01-2012 10:02 PM #34
      Quote Originally Posted by jpskate8 View Post
      Thanks Tod, ive been thinking about the EGR delete. I did see what happens inside that intake manifold near the EGR. Very nasty!

      The mounts, I wasn't going to do, but made some cash off some parts so I splurged a bit on those. Would have been more worth it if I wasn't having an issue with the rear....

      Josh

      That's not your intake piced, is it? Your EGR shoud be integral to your intake.

      All I meant about the mounts was there are plenty of places in the US that sell those mounts. The shipping must have been pretty expensive. I recently bought a m-tdi pump from the UK and the shipping was about $125 US.

      -Todd

    10. Member jpskate8's Avatar
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      09-06-2012 07:07 PM #35
      I am not having any luck getting this swap to start again. Seems to act the same as before I replaced the head, but at least now I get a good throttle response once the rig is running.

      I know its not good but the only way the rig will kick over and continue to run is with a little shot of starter fluid....

      http://www.facebook.com/v/4488118206124
      Any suggestions would be great help

      Josh

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      09-06-2012 07:23 PM #36
      Seriously quit using starter fluid, the more you do that, the worse it's going to be. Take it to a shop if you can't figure it out you're ruining the engine.

    12. Member jpskate8's Avatar
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      09-06-2012 07:45 PM #37
      Quote Originally Posted by jraney View Post
      Seriously quit using starter fluid, the more you do that, the worse it's going to be. Take it to a shop if you can't figure it out you're ruining the engine.
      As I said, I know its bad.... I just needed verification that it would run, I wont use it again...


      As for bringing the rig to a shop that is out of the question. I cant be paying someone to work on this, too much$$$$. Thanks for the help.....

      Josh

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      09-06-2012 07:49 PM #38
      Sometimes it's worth spending $100 or so for an expert's opinion on what's wrong rather than spending countless hours and throwing parts at something when you honestly don't know what the deal is. Just my .02

    14. Member jpskate8's Avatar
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      09-06-2012 08:03 PM #39
      Anyone have any suggestions to why my TDI wont start? She turns over smokes a bit and tries to start. I have bleed the lines as well.



      Engine has been freshly timed with a fairly new head.

    15. Member ducatipaso's Avatar
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      09-06-2012 08:08 PM #40
      crappy fuel?
      click me
      wanted - blue GTI interior bits, must be perfect

    16. Member jpskate8's Avatar
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      09-06-2012 08:15 PM #41
      I wish it was that simple... This is a swap, with bran new fuel...

      Thanks
      Josh

      Sent from my ADR6400L using Tapatalk 2

    17. Member syracusegli's Avatar
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      09-06-2012 09:33 PM #42
      did you prime the IP properly?
      did you wire in the OBD port? can you scan it? check codes?
      Quote Originally Posted by 2mAn View Post
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      09-06-2012 10:08 PM #43
      How does it run and drive when you finally get it started? You need to put the engine under load to get a decent assessment.

      The belt sprocket at the crank may be wearing out. The D indentation starts getting sloppy. I've heard of others with similar symptoms. Don't remove the stretch bolt unless you have another ready.

      Do you have VCDS? Plug it in and see where your timing is. You may be too retarded.

      -Todd

    19. Member jpskate8's Avatar
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      09-07-2012 08:34 AM #44
      Quote Originally Posted by ToddA1 View Post
      How does it run and drive when you finally get it started? You need to put the engine under load to get a decent assessment.

      The belt sprocket at the crank may be wearing out. The D indentation starts getting sloppy. I've heard of others with similar symptoms. Don't remove the stretch bolt unless you have another ready.

      Do you have VCDS? Plug it in and see where your timing is. You may be too retarded.

      -Todd
      Tod, Thanks for the suggestions.
      The car seems to run fine, but I have not put load on the engine. The truck is not ready to be driven around, lots of ods and ends that need finishing.
      I do not have a valid VAG com program. Is that what VCDS is? I have a couple OB2 cables but no valid vagcom program.
      I have a program on my phone that talks to the OBD2 port via Bluetooth to read trouble codes.


      I am getting 3 trouble codes.
      1. coolant temp. Circ/short to B+ (P1256)
      2. Catalyst tem. Cir Open/short to B+ (P1447) (No temp sensor connected cat removed.)
      3. Glow plug/heater indicator Circ. Open/short to Ground. (P1617)

      Anyone know if these generic descriptions are correct for the codes I'm getting?

    20. Member jpskate8's Avatar
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      09-07-2012 08:38 AM #45
      Quote Originally Posted by syracusegli View Post
      did you prime the IP properly?
      did you wire in the OBD port? can you scan it? check codes?

      I think the pump is good, not seeing much for air in the lines now.
      I came across so many different versions of how to Prime the pump I wasnt sure what was the correct way.

      I am getting 3 trouble codes.
      1. coolant temp. Circ/short to B+ (P1256)
      2. Catalyst tem. Cir Open/short to B+ (P1447) (No temp sensor connected cat removed.)
      3. Glow plug/heater indicator Circ. Open/short to Ground. (P1617)

      Anyone know if these generic descriptions are correct for the codes I'm getting?

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      09-07-2012 09:29 AM #46
      Go to the Ross Tech site and run the codes that you're seeing. I doubt the codes that you're seeing will cause for hard starts. The only one that could have the slightest chance would be the GP circuit, but a DI won't call for GPs until it's in the mid 40°s. Generic code readers work, but will miss dealer specific codes.

      Ex. I borrowed a friend's Blue Point reader. It spit out 2 codes. I bought VCDS (VagCom) a week later and I saw around 5 codes.

      You could also go on Ebay and get a knock off cable; some people have luck with them, some don't. If not, you could run VCDS lite, although there's a charge.

      So, you're seeing smoke which tells me that the IP is pumping and since it ran, everything is primed. I'm guessing you just timed by eye and the locks? That's usually sufficient, but give the pump some advance (towards the head) and see what happens. Not a lot of movement is needed to get a significant change.

      Join TDI Club. There isn't as much forum traffic, but you'll get a lot more TDI info which pertains to your issue.

      -Todd

    22. Member jpskate8's Avatar
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      09-07-2012 09:42 AM #47
      Thanks Tod, This is all coming back to me. I think I had a version of this software in the past.
      I know I used to run codes a while back on an old MK3 I had.
      Thanks Tod, Im on the TDIforum but I seem to get more responses on this site. Ill do some more searching on TDIclub,

      Now on moving the pump? How is that done? LOL

      Thanks,

      Quote Originally Posted by ToddA1 View Post
      Go to the Ross Tech site and run the codes that you're seeing. I doubt the codes that you're seeing will cause for hard starts. The only one that could have the slightest chance would be the GP circuit, but a DI won't call for GPs until it's in the mid 40°s. Generic code readers work, but will miss dealer specific codes.

      Ex. I borrowed a friend's Blue Point reader. It spit out 2 codes. I bought VCDS (VagCom) a week later and I saw around 5 codes.

      You could also go on Ebay and get a knock off cable; some people have luck with them, some don't. If not, you could run VCDS lite, although there's a charge.

      So, you're seeing smoke which tells me that the IP is pumping and since it ran, everything is primed. I'm guessing you just timed by eye and the locks? That's usually sufficient, but give the pump some advance (towards the head) and see what happens. Not a lot of movement is needed to get a significant change.

      Join TDI Club. There isn't as much forum traffic, but you'll get a lot more TDI info which pertains to your issue.

      -Todd

    23. Member Rockerchick's Avatar
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      09-07-2012 09:45 AM #48
      There should be an IP timing how-to over on TDI Club. But you really should get VAG-COM hooked up and check your timing. Its so easy. But it really should be done. You said its "timed to a T" but if the IP isn't, then your timing isn't all set.
      Quote Originally Posted by TM87 View Post
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    24. 09-07-2012 09:54 AM #49
      1st, make sure your timing is all set right.



      This may sound a little strange, but check your ignition switch.

      With my TDI swap ( you know, this one), I had an issue shortly after I started driving it where it would turn over and start, but as soon as I let the key go from crank back to run it would die. If I gave it throttle with the key on start (ie: got the revs up), the engine would stumble but then continue to run after I let the key off start. IE: the ecu then got power, the engine was spinning, so the ECU kept it running...

      My issue was the contacts in the ignition switch. When the ignition switch went from start to key on, the power was lost to my ECU.

      My issue had nothing to do with my swap, it was just the worn out parts on the truck that happened to show up at about the same time.


      I also had an issue after losing my fuel supply hose. It cracked at -40 and would draw in air if the engine rocked back, but otherwise the hose was ok. After fixing the hose, I could not get the air out of the injector lines if I bled left to right, but I could get the air out if I bled right to left. I still don't get that one....

      -Dave
      Last edited by MrDave; 09-07-2012 at 09:56 AM.

    25. Member jpskate8's Avatar
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      09-07-2012 09:59 AM #50
      Quote Originally Posted by Rockerchick View Post
      There should be an IP timing how-to over on TDI Club. But you really should get VAG-COM hooked up and check your timing. Its so easy. But it really should be done. You said its "timed to a T" but if the IP isn't, then your timing isn't all set.
      How could my pump be off when I never took the IP sprocket off and I put in lockout pin when timing it. Is the IP sprocket Key-wayed?

      Thanks
      Josh

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