#71
Same problem a month later? Take it to someone who knows what they're doing. There's no shame in asking for help, and you can obviously afford it if you just bought a new car.
#72
#73
No not the same problem. And I haven't had time to trouble shoot.
Truck now starts, and Im using VCDS to time the pump. I was just looking for some advice on adjusting the IP timing.
And the new car cost me nothing out of my pocket... Just a lower payment now that I got rid of my B8 A4.
I may have some luck getting someone down to the shop to take a look, but not to many people want to travel to the truck.
Thanks for the help.
Josh
#74
It sounds like you just need to center the pump. It'll likely require pulling the belt.
An easy way to do this is to make a mark on the pump. Swing the pump one way and make a corresponding mark on the bracket holding the pump. Swing the pump the opposite direction and make another mark.
From there, center the pump between the marks on the bracket, lock the sprocket and reinstall the belt. Once reprimed, the car should at least start and be ready for fine tuning. My pump is timed about 3/4 of the way to the top line.
-Todd
#75
Ok, Thanks Tod. Played with this a bit this afternoon, had pretty good success. I am noticing a bit of fuel leaking from my pump. Looks to be weeping from the top end of the pump and Im seeing a drip off the bottom of the IP.
Thinking my IP just may need work after all...
#76
Plenty of people on these forums, including myself have resealed pumps. Work surgically clean and be organized and you won't have an issue.
Off the top of my head, that pump requires a DGK121 seal kit. I don't think the mainshaft seal is included... IIRC, it's a 19mm seal.
One seal that isn't available is for the electrical block to pump.
-Todd
#77
#78
Off my 1mm... my memory isn't what it used to be. Are you saying the mainshaft seal is included in the kit?
-Todd
#79
You should definitely check with the supplier. Often, the mainshaft is not included.
Once you go "clack", you never go back.
#80
#81
Working on getting rid of some of these fault codes I got on this TDI caddy.
G62 30-00 Open or short to plus.
I replaced my coolant temp sensor just for the heck of it but I am still getting the above fault.
Anyone know what I should be looking for a possible wiring issue. Maybe under the dash issue?
I am also getting N109 fuel shut off code. (intermittent) This has also been replaced.
Thanks for looking
Josh
OK.... Today trouble shooting the two trouble codes above, I made huge progress! One plug causing most of all my issues with this conversion. The main engine harness circular plug (turn style attached to the head with a bracket) that plug was not connected all the way!!
The twinst portion of that plug was broken so the plug was never fully plugged in. I didnt figure this till I put a C-clamp on the plug an gave a twist, then the thing seated together another half an inch or so. just about all my codes are gone an the thing stats rite up!
So awesome!
Last edited by jpskate8; 10-22-2012 at 07:23 PM.
#82
n109 intermittent...you should look unto your motor speed sensor, its thwt sensor in front of the block at the bottom...its a 3 wire plug and n109 is also a 3 wire plug! and they fit in each others sensors...Ive done the same mistake with the same codes...have a look
#83
n109 intermittent...you should look unto your motor speed sensor, its that sensor in front of the block at the bottom...its a 3 wire plug and n109 is also a 3 wire plug! and they fit in each others sensors...Ive done the same mistake with the same codes...have a look
#84
OK.... Today trouble shooting the two trouble codes above, I made huge progress! One plug causing most of all my issues with this conversion. The main engine harness circular plug (turn style attached to the head with a bracket) that plug was not connected all the way!!
The twinst portion of that plug was broken so the plug was never fully plugged in. I didnt figure this till I put a C-clamp on the plug an gave a twist, then the thing seated together another half an inch or so. just about all my codes are gone an the thing stats rite up!
So awesome!
#85
Wow, that had to put a smile on your face!
I think they refer to that plug as the "orb of death" over on TDI Club. You may want to spray it down with Detoxit and pack it with dielectric grease.
-Todd
#86
#87
Been driving the Caddy all around, its great to have this rig back on the road.
The other day my buddy hooked me up with a fairly low millage turbo as a spare and a roddo steering wheel that i need to swap over.
Getting 46.6 MPG and I haven't been easy on the throttle.
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#89
I'm jealous! I'm sure once the initial fun wears off and you start driving that thing normally, you'll easily crack 50+mpg.
Remember that 1Z was originally pulling around a Passat that weighed roughly 1,000+ lbs more than the Rabbit that it's currently in.
Get a chip set and a set of nozzles. A set of PP520s and a tune totally changed my B4V.... I can't imagine what it'd do in that light body.
-Todd
#90
#91
im getting ready to start this swap, but from a 98 jetta to a 82 jetta.
could you please post some pics or explain what you did with the pedal cluster? did you also swap the cruise?
#92
Hello, to make the peddle cluster work you have to reshape the fire wall, or weld in your fire wall from the other car. I had to trim some of the support from the peddle cluster to fit the steering column down through. I'll try and find pics for ya.
What will u be running for a tranny?
I don't think I kept the Cruz control.
Josh
Sent from my ADR6400L using Tapatalk 2
#94
#95
My newest addition for the caddy.
Frame built:
Frame wrapped:
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#97
I will have to shoot some for ya.
Sent from my ADR6400L using Tapatalk 2
#98
OK I found a couple:
Not sure how much these shots will help you. I used the brake booster from the TDI and used the same hole through the fire wall from the old brake booster. I think I had to be enlarged a little bit.
The majority of the firewall mod was done to the area where the clutch goes through. A hole was added then I just used some body hammers and dolly's to form it as needed. I also needed to bend up the rain tray a bit to help the fitment of the whole peddle cluster. It was a lot of trial and error, but with time you will get it to the shape as needed.
I may be able to come up with more pics, Ill look around.
Do you have an idea what you will use for a rear and side tranny mount. I ended up ordering some made up by someone.
But until I had them I made a temp side tranny mount to hold everything in place. Pic below.
[IMG][/IMG]
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#99
now those are passat pedals not mk3 pedals right? i wonder if they are the same... your brake booster bracket looks easy enough to make....
hmmm soo many ways to go on this syle of build. i just saw another mk1 build where the guy welded in most of the mk3 firewall! which was my orig. plan but looks like way too much work
i have some beginner welding skills, and i just got a wire feed welder for xmas ive been dying to try out so im going to try my hand at making my own mounts using some old mk1 mounts similar to your picture and some scrap metal. i need to get in the garage and do some practice first to figure out how the new box welds.
Last edited by the4ork; 04-04-2013 at 01:01 PM.
#100
#101
Passat, mk2 and corrado pedal clusters are different then a mk3.
Your build looks great so far. It's fun to see how many different ways there are to accomplish the same thing. Keep up the good work![]()
#102
#103
I was just thinking about this thread... Picked up a rear ended Passat TDI and have been slowly stripping it. Enthusiast owned, so there are a some good parts on it.
Josh, did you retain A/C?
-Todd
#105
The compressor can be fitted, but it involves adding a pocket to the front core support.
My truck was originally non ac, but I was thinking of adding the standard ac box and modding the lines. Guess I won't be running that custom under dash sub box... such is life.
No, I wasn't planning on going to that show. I actually haven't been to any shows in about 10 years... Maybe I should start getting back into it.
-Todd