Since I'm prior VR6 and would like to keep my A/C I need a spot for the brown sensor.
I've though of this hose and that "T" pipe.
The never ending story. Had to pull the transmission out because it didn't want to go into gear. Turns out the clutch was ****ed. The spring retainers were cracked and disk worn bad. I guess single mass flywheel plus VR6 clutch here I come.
it's not that I can't do it, it's that I don't know how yet...
This is the old crappy 1.8T dual mass flywheel.
The new G60 14LBS single mass flywheel with a VR6 clutch.
I removed the SAI since the AEB harness doesn't use it.
My new FMIC
I also delivered the old VR6-T this past weekend
I am having a little issue. My #1 cylinder coil has gone bad twice. The reason I know is because when remove it to put it on another cylinder and the problem followed. Any suggestions? I'm replacing the plugs just to be sure. Once I get all the bugs out I wanna go with a tune. I need more boost.
The #1 coil went bad then the #3. I got mad and replaced all 4 coils with NGK plugs.
I received the 034 Motorsports coil cover and desided to powder coated black. I gave it a little touch.
This is my old VR6 turbo FMIC. Its pretty big. Since I have a K03S i sold this one with the VR6T setup.
This is my new one.
I got my G60 transmission mount to replace the VF engineering mount due to the crazy vibration. Man that drove me nuts!! I received the MSD 8920 tach adapter and installed. The issue I'm having is that is not working. I know I have it correct. Violet to G1/12 and white to black T10/2. I have thought it might be the ECU but I hope is not.
This is the very last thing before the entire swap is a success. After this is Aftermarket.
Swapped out the ECU for another one I got at the junk yard for $28 and it fixed the RPM issue. What a waste of an ECU. To be bad just for RPM signal to the cluster.
That makes my 1.8T 20V swap complete. Now for upgrades.
Man one of the issues of a VR6 is that it loves to run hot. The issue I'm having with this 1.8T is that is runs cold. Today the outside temperature was 34F. I woke up early to take one of my troops to the airport in Los Angeles and the Cant temperature was under 150F which is the fat white bar at the bottom of the gauge with an oil temperature not even being registered. The only thing I got is the 3 dashes with an occasional 124F then it will go back to the 3 dashes. I still have the VR6 EUROSPORTS 13 row oil cooler with the thermostat. I still have the VR6 fan set up which is turning out to be very efficient. I'm planning to go to a lighter oil in order to get the temperature up a little. Coolant temperature and oil temperature does go up but man driving it drops fast. Lol
I know all the sensors work because I replaced them thinking it was a fault but the gauges match the Vagcom reading. Any suggestions? Lol funny that this is even a concern.
Not sure if this would make sense but my 1.8t ran cold all the time and I removed the thermostat only to find that it was stuck open. The pin that runs through the spring somehow unhinged and lodged the spring open.
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Man I hated having to install all the EVAP junk!
I used an MK3 2.0L LDP
It all was worth it because I passed Smog!!
I did remove the 17's just to save some more gas since I'm driving is twice more and might be driving it to my next duty station or school.
Stripped the car to get it ready for paint.
All u can do to the 1.8T is add all those mk4 engine covers.
Last edited by Sidn22ey; 02-21-2013 at 02:27 AM.