If the OP has no safe way to lift the car up to work on it, and he doesn't have any intention of buying or borrow the right tools to do the job, he should take/tow the car to a shop where a competent and safe repair can be done.
I don't hustle parts for a living on Vortex. Is that what you do, sell rusty parts? Obviously you don't have any mechanical experience or knowledge. I don't have a subframe for sale (I sold the ones from the cars I parted out years ago for $50 each, including the lower control arms, and the swaybar, because I had no use for them), and even if I did have a spare, I'd still tell the OP to find a local replacement he can go over to, and inspect before he buys.
This is how far it is to the bolt lodged in the captive nut...not even 2" in fact it is shorter than a fluted bolt extractor.
When I drill the hole I will be stepping it from smallest to largest, so it will resemble a cone, this way the bolt extractor will have the most amount of surface to grab onto. After the PB trickles down and lubricates the entire thread surface area I doubt it will be much trouble to back it out, without the PB in there I'm sure it would not work as well. There was no rust on the bolt and I doubt it was installed correctly, or replaced the last time it was apart. You can see the corrosion clearly. This bolt does not appear to be of good quality like the ones I got from the dealer.
This is another interesting thread with lots of arguing. You all should read it. It specifically deals with these bolts.
I'm sure Germancarnut51 will recognize this thread when he reads it. One thing I have learned about getting feedback from others is that you take what you can apply and let the rest fly. You make your own educated decision and go from there, even if you are wrong. It's called learning from your mistakes.
I have Thursday, Friday and Sat off this week and will fix this by Sunday come hell or high water.
Yeah, I recognize that thread.
The whole arguement in that Thread stems from John Stamos not knowing the difference between Torque To Yield Tightening and the bolts that are used that way, AND Torque Angle Tightening. Two similar ways to tighten bolts, one which requires the replacement of the bolts each time they are removed, and the other, a tightening method considered to be more accurate than using a torque wrench that does not require the replacement of the bolt each time it's removed.
I provided John Stamos with the link to a magazine article that explained the difference and how people can confuse one with the other. But he still contends that only Torque To Yield exists. Then again, he never admits that he's wrong, no matter how much evidence is provided to prove him wrong. He's another inexperienced talking head that you would be better off ignoring.
In the past he's given people advice on the oil weight to run in their engines, that contrary to what both VW and the oil manufacturers recommend, because he claims to know better. And he claims that solid brake rotors dissipate heat better and faster than vented rotors, and that "Racers" use solid brake rotors instead of vented brake rotors for that reason alone.
So I suppose replacing these bolts is not necessary but if you live in the Northeast or areas where there is a lot of corrosion, I would replace them. The total at the dealer was $15.40 for all four not $24. First they said 24$ on the phone then I went there and they said 15$...I didn't say a word.
So apparently all this thread is missing is Stamos's 2 cents. I'll be waiting.
If its corrosion you may see evidence of pitting on those threads. If its anti seize maybe it shouldnt be on there. The bentley proccedure for installing these bolts tells you to make sure there is no waxy substance on the bolts. Maybe it would have been better to use a impact gun to remove these bolts(bangs it loose first)? regardless I think the safest way to deal with this, is too remove the entire subframe so it gives you better access for drilling and extracting. make sure you center punch bolt first before you start drilling. gl
my rusty rebuild
In places where they salt the roads, no car can be repaired clinically by the manual. You have to work around the rust, it's just an extra hurdle.
Also, it takes a keyboard commando to know one. You give a lot of ****ty advice; I suggest going outside once in a while
Originally Posted by soccergk
Is there some type of metal sleeve that is supposed to go into the control arm bushing so the bolt is nice and snug as it sits in the bushing? Like a metal collar? If so was this an OEM piece of hardware?
Edit: Mk2 had sleeves, MK3 did not? Or some MK3's did?
Last edited by VT-MKJett; 09-09-2012 at 11:46 PM.
Finally my Turd is back on the road. Drilling a small hole in the cap nut and loading it with PB Blaster must have helped. Got it up on a lift at a local shop and the owners son was able to remove the bolt end with a pair of needle nose pliers! It came right out and no drilling was necessary. Had no issues with the passenger side. It now drives so very nice. Further evidence of how good people have it who have their own garage or access to one through work or whatever.