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    Thread: Things were going fine until....control arm bolt snapped.

    1. Banned VT-MKJett's Avatar
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      08-31-2012 03:46 PM #26
      Quote Originally Posted by zero. View Post
      That really shouldn't be that hard to remove. I've removed plenty of grade 10.1 snapped bolts with a cordless drill. Soak it in PB Blaster or other penetrating oil and drill a very small pilot hole in the center with a bit that can reach it (small pilot hole is key...you won't drill through with a large bit). Do not attempt to use a small bolt extractor/tap because it will most likely snap and then you're in a worse situation. Keep stepping up in drill bit sizes until you have a hole big enough to fit the largest extractor you can. By that point it may have broken loose enough from the heat and penetrating oil to remove without extractor. Good luck.

      These have worked for me, but they are cheap and the smaller bits break easily:
      http://www.harborfreight.com/12-piec...set-40349.html
      Quote Originally Posted by ShelbyVNT View Post
      If the whole bolt was turning before it snapped off it must have been just that little bit too much stress. I would soak the hell out of it with penetrating oil for a couple days (If you have that long) and if I could get ahold of the end of the bolt with vice grips try to turn it out by driving it all the way through. A couple sharp strikes with a hammer can loosen rust and it should be noted that like tapping threads, with a bolt that feels like it may break or is REALLY hard to turn, you should go a little the turn it back in a bit. This relieves the stress in most cases on the threads and bolt. I also like to (If possible) before I turn it back and forth spray all exposed threads with penetrant because the turning action helps the penetrant soak in and loosen the "Death grip"
      These are both good suggestions. I was already thinking the same thing about stepping up the size in bits, and not trying to use a large bit to start. Soaking the hell out of it with PB, drilling my hole, getting a good fluted extractor really snug in the drilled hole, then using a stud extractor to get some serious grip on the fluted extractor and back that bad larry out. I got all new bolts today from the dealer. The bolt that broke was not from the dealer I believe, if that would even make a difference. When I win the lottery, or get a really good job after I finish school I will get a nice clean MK3.

    2. Member VW-G's Avatar
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      08-31-2012 04:19 PM #27
      Quote Originally Posted by germancarnut51 View Post
      Yes, you can tell a lot from a single picture.

      DID YOU LOOK AT IT?

      It's obvious from the way that the OP is talking that wants to fix what he already has, and he's not going to replace the shell, so why bother mentioning it?
      It's obvious to me that you are quite dense. You understand the concept of the OP wanting to "fix what he already has" yet you clearly ignored that when suggesting to him to swap subframes. My comment about the shell was not a suggestion, which you obviously missed. OP, drill that bad boy out, chase the threads to ensure they aren't damaged, put your new bolt in, and drive off into the sunset
      Quote Originally Posted by toothpick View Post
      location says, NWO,.. what is that, new world order? are you a rockerfeller?
      Quote Originally Posted by DeathLens View Post
      I managed to destroy the car in 2 days...wait, did I say destroy? I meant make it awesome.

    3. Banned VT-MKJett's Avatar
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      09-01-2012 07:18 PM #28
      So it was hot today and didn't feel like crawling around in the dirt so I still have not tried to drill this out. But I was kinda bored so I went and found the cap nut that the broken bolt is sitting in.


      So I was thinking if I could really get the bolt soaked with PB it would probably make things much easier when I go to back it out. I was thinking about drilling a very small hole into the top center of the cap nut, and then loading the empty space above the bolt with PB. Then let it soak in for a few days and try to remove it on my next day off. This seems like a decent plan, but was wondering if
      it would be a bad idea to drill the small hole.


      I started to drill then I stopped because one I broke the bit, and two I wasn't sure if this was a good idea or not.

    4. 09-01-2012 10:23 PM #29
      I've heard of guys chopping up the floorboards and the chopping out that whole piece that holds the captive receiver and then welding in another one that they chopped out of a parts car.

      I would probably not want to deal with all of that, unless nothing else worked, and would probably try to gradually drill out enough of the broken bolt with smaller bits first, and going on to bigger bits to get a big extractor in it to remove it, as mentioned above. Have a bunch of spare bits on hand and maybe a drill doctor to keep them sharp.

      The broken part that came out looks pretty clean, I doubt that it was rusted in place to begin with. You probably just heated it up when you were taking it out and it fatigued. Don't pay any attention to GCN, he likes to offer up the most complicated solution possible to everyone's problems in order to portray himself as an elitist big-time mechanic or to make you feel stupid. I usually don't even bother to read his vomit anymore after he gave me horrible advice on how to fix a door hinge problem that I was having.

      Next time you have a nut/bolt/retainer that you know or think will be stubborn, soak it with the PB Blaster the night before, and again a few minutes before you begin work, and then the first thing that you do when you get your wrench on it is to TIGHTEN it about one mm first, then begin to loosen it. As you go every half turn or so, tighten it back up a little to help chase the threads out, and pause every couple of revs to spray with more blaster to lubricate it and let it cool.
      =P

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      09-01-2012 10:41 PM #30
      Quote Originally Posted by 'dubber View Post
      I've heard of guys chopping up the floorboards and the chopping out that whole piece that holds the captive receiver and then welding in another one that they chopped out of a parts car.

      I would probably not want to deal with all of that, unless nothing else worked, and would probably try to gradually drill out enough of the broken bolt with smaller bits first, and going on to bigger bits to get a big extractor in it to remove it, as mentioned above. Have a bunch of spare bits on hand and maybe a drill doctor to keep them sharp.

      The broken part that came out looks pretty clean, I doubt that it was rusted in place to begin with. You probably just heated it up when you were taking it out and it fatigued. Don't pay any attention to GCN, he likes to offer up the most complicated solution possible to everyone's problems in order to portray himself as an elitist big-time mechanic or to make you feel stupid. I usually don't even bother to read his vomit anymore after he gave me horrible advice on how to fix a door hinge problem that I was having.

      Next time you have a nut/bolt/retainer that you know or think will be stubborn, soak it with the PB Blaster the night before, and again a few minutes before you begin work, and then the first thing that you do when you get your wrench on it is to TIGHTEN it about one mm first, then begin to loosen it. As you go every half turn or so, tighten it back up a little to help chase the threads out, and pause every couple of revs to spray with more blaster to lubricate it and let it cool.
      Good advise thank you, though there was really no way to soak it with PB first, I'm going to drill that small hole in the top of the cap nut and fill it with PB. I don't see any harm in doing so. Just big enough to fit one of those red nozzle extensions in there. I would think that will help a lot.

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      09-01-2012 11:00 PM #31
      Quote Originally Posted by 'dubber View Post
      I've heard of guys chopping up the floorboards and the chopping out that whole piece that holds the captive receiver and then welding in another one that they chopped out of a parts car.

      I would probably not want to deal with all of that, unless nothing else worked, and would probably try to gradually drill out enough of the broken bolt with smaller bits first, and going on to bigger bits to get a big extractor in it to remove it, as mentioned above. Have a bunch of spare bits on hand and maybe a drill doctor to keep them sharp.

      The broken part that came out looks pretty clean, I doubt that it was rusted in place to begin with. You probably just heated it up when you were taking it out and it fatigued. Don't pay any attention to GCN, he likes to offer up the most complicated solution possible to everyone's problems in order to portray himself as an elitist big-time mechanic or to make you feel stupid. I usually don't even bother to read his vomit anymore after he gave me horrible advice on how to fix a door hinge problem that I was having.

      Next time you have a nut/bolt/retainer that you know or think will be stubborn, soak it with the PB Blaster the night before, and again a few minutes before you begin work, and then the first thing that you do when you get your wrench on it is to TIGHTEN it about one mm first, then begin to loosen it. As you go every half turn or so, tighten it back up a little to help chase the threads out, and pause every couple of revs to spray with more blaster to lubricate it and let it cool.


      Do you ever make comments where you actually know something about what you're commenting on?

      Heated up, and it fatigued? Is that supposed to be a technical reason for the bolt breaking? It was supposed to be a grade 10.9 bolt. In your expert opinion, how much torque would it take to break that bolt, and if it was already turning out like the OP stated, and was not rusty, why did it break?

      Talk about vomit. Your comments to other people's threads and the threads you start read like posts from an airhead talking to himself to hear his own voice.

    7. 09-01-2012 11:28 PM #32
      Quote Originally Posted by germancarnut51 View Post
      Do you ever make comments where you actually know something about what you're commenting on?

      Heated up, and it fatigued? Is that supposed to be a technical reason for the bolt breaking? It was supposed to be a grade 10.9 bolt. In your expert opinion, how much torque would it take to break that bolt, and if it was already turning out like the OP stated, and was not rusty, why did it break?

      Talk about vomit. Your comments to other people's threads and the threads you start read like posts from an airhead talking to himself to hear his own voice.
      Ha ha ha, look who it is! You can't let this one go, can you? Want to know why? Because you have given poor advice and can't admit it! Keep on typing, maybe that will fix everything!!
      The bolt probably broke because it heated up from friction, and that fatigued it. Perhaps it was over-tightened to begin with, which damaged it. Maybe it's not the right bolt. Who knows? It doesn't matter, since it's broken at this time. I'm not sure how replacing his sub-frame is supposed to fix that. I do know that those are stretch bolts, so maybe it had been over-tightened or used too many times, and that could have had something to do with it. I also know that you like to offer complicated and convoluted "solutions" to people, instead of giving them good advice. Due to all of the crap that you post, I hate you and everything that you stand for, and I don't even know you! You've been doing it for so long, you don't even know the difference anymore! One day, you're going to get someone hurt or killed, and you'll have to live with that, not me, pal.
      =P

    8. Member sic_null's Avatar
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      09-02-2012 12:26 AM #33

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      09-02-2012 01:29 AM #34
      Quote Originally Posted by 'dubber View Post
      Ha ha ha, look who it is! You can't let this one go, can you? Want to know why? Because you have given poor advice and can't admit it! Keep on typing, maybe that will fix everything!!
      The bolt probably broke because it heated up from friction, and that fatigued it. Perhaps it was over-tightened to begin with, which damaged it. Maybe it's not the right bolt. Who knows? It doesn't matter, since it's broken at this time. I'm not sure how replacing his sub-frame is supposed to fix that. I do know that those are stretch bolts, so maybe it had been over-tightened or used too many times, and that could have had something to do with it. I also know that you like to offer complicated and convoluted "solutions" to people, instead of giving them good advice. Due to all of the crap that you post, I hate you and everything that you stand for, and I don't even know you! You've been doing it for so long, you don't even know the difference anymore! One day, you're going to get someone hurt or killed, and you'll have to live with that, not me, pal.


      You just don't get it.

      Since you don't work on your own car, don't own a Bentley, and you don't understand how the parts of your car work, you probably don't understand how a drill works, or how to use a broken bolt extractor. You certainly don't understand how bolts break.

      The broken off bolt is recessed close to an inch inside a small diameter hole. The PO says the the broken off piece might be an inch long. Just how do you suggest that the PO, with his limits skills and limited tool selection precision drill a hole for a distance of a minimum of two inches from the nose of the drill, through a harden bolt, when he can't see the broken bolt?

      Remove the subframe and the lower control arm, improve visual access, and decrease the distance from the drill bit to the target surface by 1/2 the distance. Improve the chance of sucess with a minimum of collateral damage. And then, replace the rusty subframe (and the control arms if they are as rusty) because they're already off the car, and there's no reason to reinstall junk parts.

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      09-02-2012 03:21 AM #35
      Quote Originally Posted by 'dubber View Post
      The bolt probably broke because it heated up from friction, and that fatigued.
      Not to take sides here, but... As metal heats up it gets softer. Plus the OP said he was turning it slowly, so it wouldn't get too hot, not hot enough to weaken the metal.

      Most likely, the bolt just had some crud on it and as it was coming out some of the crap piled up and seized the bolt. Or there could have been some galling of the bolt.
      Pro Patria

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    11. 09-02-2012 04:48 AM #36
      Quote Originally Posted by germancarnut51 View Post
      You just don't get it.

      Since you don't work on your own car, don't own a Bentley, and you don't understand how the parts of your car work, you probably don't understand how a drill works, or how to use a broken bolt extractor. You certainly don't understand how bolts break.

      The broken off bolt is recessed close to an inch inside a small diameter hole. The PO says the the broken off piece might be an inch long. Just how do you suggest that the PO, with his limits skills and limited tool selection precision drill a hole for a distance of a minimum of two inches from the nose of the drill, through a harden bolt, when he can't see the broken bolt?

      Remove the subframe and the lower control arm, improve visual access, and decrease the distance from the drill bit to the target surface by 1/2 the distance. Improve the chance of sucess with a minimum of collateral damage. And then, replace the rusty subframe (and the control arms if they are as rusty) because they're already off the car, and there's no reason to reinstall junk parts.
      He'll go out and buy some long bits, and a long extractor. Or, he'll get it back to the shop. You do have a problem with critical thinking if you feel that having this guy remove the sub-frame in a parking lot with no safe means of doing so is going to make his day any easier. It would not surprise me if your "helpful suggestion" was followed up with a hasty PM to the O.P., offering to sell him a "fresh" sub-frame that he "needs" so badly. Stick to hustling parts on the vortex so you can continue to help yourself and be able to stuff food down your gullet. Hopefully you will choke on some of it and relieve us all of your future nonsense.
      =P

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      09-02-2012 07:57 AM #37
      Quote Originally Posted by 'dubber View Post
      He'll go out and buy some long bits, and a long extractor. Or, he'll get it back to the shop. You do have a problem with critical thinking if you feel that having this guy remove the sub-frame in a parking lot with no safe means of doing so is going to make his day any easier. It would not surprise me if your "helpful suggestion" was followed up with a hasty PM to the O.P., offering to sell him a "fresh" sub-frame that he "needs" so badly. Stick to hustling parts on the vortex so you can continue to help yourself and be able to stuff food down your gullet. Hopefully you will choke on some of it and relieve us all of your future nonsense.
      You're a Troll, or an Idiot or both. Do you have any idea of what it would cost to ship a subframe from here to there? Of course not, you're a talking head.

      If the OP has no safe way to lift the car up to work on it, and he doesn't have any intention of buying or borrow the right tools to do the job, he should take/tow the car to a shop where a competent and safe repair can be done.

      I don't hustle parts for a living on Vortex. Is that what you do, sell rusty parts? Obviously you don't have any mechanical experience or knowledge. I don't have a subframe for sale (I sold the ones from the cars I parted out years ago for $50 each, including the lower control arms, and the swaybar, because I had no use for them), and even if I did have a spare, I'd still tell the OP to find a local replacement he can go over to, and inspect before he buys.

    13. Banned VT-MKJett's Avatar
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      09-02-2012 07:17 PM #38
      Quote Originally Posted by germancarnut51 View Post
      You're a Troll, or an Idiot or both. Do you have any idea of what it would cost to ship a subframe from here to there? Of course not, you're a talking head.

      If the OP has no safe way to lift the car up to work on it, and he doesn't have any intention of buying or borrow the right tools to do the job, he should take/tow the car to a shop where a competent and safe repair can be done.

      I don't hustle parts for a living on Vortex. Is that what you do, sell rusty parts? Obviously you don't have any mechanical experience or knowledge. I don't have a subframe for sale (I sold the ones from the cars I parted out years ago for $50 each, including the lower control arms, and the swaybar, because I had no use for them), and even if I did have a spare, I'd still tell the OP to find a local replacement he can go over to, and inspect before he buys.
      Wow from all this banter I would say people must think I am totally incompetent. I do own all the proper tools to do most things, except...pull an engine, drop a subframe/transmission. There are factors where I live, such as climate, shade, parking space, etc. It is a dusty dirt parking lot in VT. I could basically do anything in this lot, though most of the time I don't want to because it gets annoying. I thought I went over all this before.Yes I have a jack, jack stands and 3/8" 1/2" torque wrenches, VW special tools, sockets, allen keys, vice grips, nice power drill, proper chems, angle grinder, cut off wheels, dremel, and many other bits and pieces. This bolt breaking was unexpected and I should have prepared myself when I started taking it apart. I did not do that and I learned my lesson. I find it interesting that no one mentioned getting at the cap nut and making a small hole in it to load it with PB for a few days. There are plenty of threads on this forum where people have had this same issue, none of which that I read involved a new subframe or even having to remove it. Who knows maybe I will have to do that but I doubt it. Yes I have BN control arms with the bushings in them, and sway bar end links. I have replaced everything on my front suspension except the control arms, in a dusty lot with said improper tools . Everything torqued to spec, copper anti-seize, all proper greases, bolts, etc. After putting things together properly when I take stuff apart with hand tools it's so easy. I did my front rotors and pads the other day in like 20 mins with hand tools.

      This is how far it is to the bolt lodged in the captive nut...not even 2" in fact it is shorter than a fluted bolt extractor.


      When I drill the hole I will be stepping it from smallest to largest, so it will resemble a cone, this way the bolt extractor will have the most amount of surface to grab onto. After the PB trickles down and lubricates the entire thread surface area I doubt it will be much trouble to back it out, without the PB in there I'm sure it would not work as well. There was no rust on the bolt and I doubt it was installed correctly, or replaced the last time it was apart. You can see the corrosion clearly. This bolt does not appear to be of good quality like the ones I got from the dealer.

      This is another interesting thread with lots of arguing. You all should read it. It specifically deals with these bolts.

      I'm sure Germancarnut51 will recognize this thread when he reads it. One thing I have learned about getting feedback from others is that you take what you can apply and let the rest fly. You make your own educated decision and go from there, even if you are wrong. It's called learning from your mistakes.

      http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...ntrol+arm+bolt
      I have Thursday, Friday and Sat off this week and will fix this by Sunday come hell or high water.

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      09-02-2012 10:23 PM #39
      Quote Originally Posted by VT-MKJett View Post
      Wow from all this banter I would say people must think I am totally incompetent. I do own all the proper tools to do most things, except...pull an engine, drop a subframe/transmission. There are factors where I live, such as climate, shade, parking space, etc. It is a dusty dirt parking lot in VT. I could basically do anything in this lot, though most of the time I don't want to because it gets annoying. I thought I went over all this before.Yes I have a jack, jack stands and 3/8" 1/2" torque wrenches, VW special tools, sockets, allen keys, vice grips, nice power drill, proper chems, angle grinder, cut off wheels, dremel, and many other bits and pieces. This bolt breaking was unexpected and I should have prepared myself when I started taking it apart. I did not do that and I learned my lesson. I find it interesting that no one mentioned getting at the cap nut and making a small hole in it to load it with PB for a few days. There are plenty of threads on this forum where people have had this same issue, none of which that I read involved a new subframe or even having to remove it. Who knows maybe I will have to do that but I doubt it. Yes I have BN control arms with the bushings in them, and sway bar end links. I have replaced everything on my front suspension except the control arms, in a dusty lot with said improper tools . Everything torqued to spec, copper anti-seize, all proper greases, bolts, etc. After putting things together properly when I take stuff apart with hand tools it's so easy. I did my front rotors and pads the other day in like 20 mins with hand tools.

      This is how far it is to the bolt lodged in the captive nut...not even 2" in fact it is shorter than a fluted bolt extractor.


      When I drill the hole I will be stepping it from smallest to largest, so it will resemble a cone, this way the bolt extractor will have the most amount of surface to grab onto. After the PB trickles down and lubricates the entire thread surface area I doubt it will be much trouble to back it out, without the PB in there I'm sure it would not work as well. There was no rust on the bolt and I doubt it was installed correctly, or replaced the last time it was apart. You can see the corrosion clearly. This bolt does not appear to be of good quality like the ones I got from the dealer.

      This is another interesting thread with lots of arguing. You all should read it. It specifically deals with these bolts.

      I'm sure Germancarnut51 will recognize this thread when he reads it. One thing I have learned about getting feedback from others is that you take what you can apply and let the rest fly. You make your own educated decision and go from there, even if you are wrong. It's called learning from your mistakes.

      http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...ntrol+arm+bolt
      I have Thursday, Friday and Sat off this week and will fix this by Sunday come hell or high water.


      Yeah, I recognize that thread.

      The whole arguement in that Thread stems from John Stamos not knowing the difference between Torque To Yield Tightening and the bolts that are used that way, AND Torque Angle Tightening. Two similar ways to tighten bolts, one which requires the replacement of the bolts each time they are removed, and the other, a tightening method considered to be more accurate than using a torque wrench that does not require the replacement of the bolt each time it's removed.

      I provided John Stamos with the link to a magazine article that explained the difference and how people can confuse one with the other. But he still contends that only Torque To Yield exists. Then again, he never admits that he's wrong, no matter how much evidence is provided to prove him wrong. He's another inexperienced talking head that you would be better off ignoring.

      In the past he's given people advice on the oil weight to run in their engines, that contrary to what both VW and the oil manufacturers recommend, because he claims to know better. And he claims that solid brake rotors dissipate heat better and faster than vented rotors, and that "Racers" use solid brake rotors instead of vented brake rotors for that reason alone.

    15. 09-02-2012 10:59 PM #40
      Hey glad you figured that out.


    16. 09-02-2012 11:04 PM #41
      OP, that corrosion looked like anti-seize in the pics. You should take that broken fastener and compare the bolt width, and the thread thickness and pitch to the new oem one. If they are different, you might not be able to simply remove the old piece and slap in the new one, if the bolt was not the right one and the captive nut threads have been galled out or stripped due to that.

      Quote Originally Posted by germancarnut51 View Post
      You're a Troll, or an Idiot or both.
      Nah, not trolling or an idiot. All that you need to understand is that I simply don't like you! You generally come off as a holier-than-thou condescending douche- bag, who often likes to portray a situation as hopeless or insurmountable when it is not. Old men with health problems tend to get that way. Must be tough to realize that you are going through body break-down in your waning years. Ha ha ha, I laugh at your situation.

      I had already corrected your ASSumptions that I don't have knowledge or experience, or proper literature, when you were trying to convince me that I needed to buy a new door to fix a bad hinge. Thanks for clearing up the TTY fastener argument though, I'll admit that I thought those rear bolts were stretch bolts.

      Anyway, have fun sucking down alcohol and painkillers while you spend the majority of days here on vwvortex, you seem to need this place so you can post the same things over and over again, in order to keep your fragile ego intact. Maybe *you* should listen to *yourself* talk once in a while, and you'll realize what a talking head sounds like .
      =P

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      09-02-2012 11:14 PM #42
      Quote Originally Posted by 'dubber View Post
      OP, that corrosion looked like anti-seize in the pics. You should take that broken fastener and compare the bolt width, and the thread thickness and pitch to the new oem one. If they are different, you might not be able to simply remove the old piece and slap in the new one, if the bolt was not the right one and the captive nut threads have been galled out or stripped due to that.



      Nah, not trolling or an idiot. All that you need to understand is that I simply don't like you! You generally come off as a holier-than-thou condescending douche- bag, who often likes to portray a situation as hopeless or insurmountable when it is not. Old men with health problems tend to get that way. Must be tough to realize that you are going through body break-down in your waning years. Ha ha ha, I laugh at your situation.

      I had already corrected your ASSumptions that I don't have knowledge or experience, or proper literature, when you were trying to convince me that I needed to buy a new door to fix a bad hinge. Thanks for clearing up the TTY fastener argument though, I'll admit that I thought those rear bolts were stretch bolts.

      Anyway, have fun sucking down alcohol and painkillers while you spend the majority of days here on vwvortex, you seem to need this place so you can post the same things over and over again, in order to keep your fragile ego intact. Maybe *you* should listen to *yourself* talk once in a while, and you'll realize what a talking head sounds like .


      I love vortex sometimes.

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      09-02-2012 11:16 PM #43
      Quote Originally Posted by 'dubber View Post
      OP, that corrosion looked like anti-seize in the pics. You should take that broken fastener and compare the bolt width, and the thread thickness and pitch to the new oem one. If they are different, you might not be able to simply remove the old piece and slap in the new one, if the bolt was not the right one and the captive nut threads have been galled out or stripped due to that.
      Yes I already did that and they are correct, I was thinking the same thing and that was the first thing I checked when I got the new bolts. Does ant-seize dry to a powder like substance over time?

      So I suppose replacing these bolts is not necessary but if you live in the Northeast or areas where there is a lot of corrosion, I would replace them. The total at the dealer was $15.40 for all four not $24. First they said 24$ on the phone then I went there and they said 15$...I didn't say a word.

      So apparently all this thread is missing is Stamos's 2 cents. I'll be waiting.

    19. Member heerschap's Avatar
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      09-03-2012 08:28 AM #44
      If its corrosion you may see evidence of pitting on those threads. If its anti seize maybe it shouldnt be on there. The bentley proccedure for installing these bolts tells you to make sure there is no waxy substance on the bolts. Maybe it would have been better to use a impact gun to remove these bolts(bangs it loose first)? regardless I think the safest way to deal with this, is too remove the entire subframe so it gives you better access for drilling and extracting. make sure you center punch bolt first before you start drilling. gl

    20. Member tauntedmonster's Avatar
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      09-03-2012 11:31 AM #45
      Quote Originally Posted by germancarnut51 View Post
      Remove the subframe and the lower control arm, improve visual access, and decrease the distance from the drill bit to the target surface by 1/2 the distance. Improve the chance of sucess with a minimum of collateral damage. And then, replace the rusty subframe (and the control arms if they are as rusty) because they're already off the car, and there's no reason to reinstall junk parts.
      You have clearly never lived in a state in the salt belt. Nobody could afford to drive a car if they replaced every part that was rusty.

      In places where they salt the roads, no car can be repaired clinically by the manual. You have to work around the rust, it's just an extra hurdle.

      Also, it takes a keyboard commando to know one. You give a lot of ****ty advice; I suggest going outside once in a while
      Quote Originally Posted by soccergk
      looks like chocolate pudding....why the hell did you paint it brown? to match the **** you have for brains

    21. Banned VT-MKJett's Avatar
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      09-03-2012 07:25 PM #46
      Quote Originally Posted by heerschap View Post
      If its corrosion you may see evidence of pitting on those threads. If its anti seize maybe it shouldnt be on there. The bentley proccedure for installing these bolts tells you to make sure there is no waxy substance on the bolts. Maybe it would have been better to use a impact gun to remove these bolts(bangs it loose first)? regardless I think the safest way to deal with this, is too remove the entire subframe so it gives you better access for drilling and extracting. make sure you center punch bolt first before you start drilling. gl
      I have read your thread and I know you have some good experience with rust. However I don't own air tools. I also have read numerous times that when using an impact gun the captive nut has broken free from the body, at least that did not happen. Cannot drop the sub frame currently which was stated earlier in the thread. I'll get it out. Wed I should have some time to work on it if it does not rain. Will see what happens. Good news is over the winter I should be getting a decent shell and using the space below my parents barn to set up a shop for the next couple years. If that happens I will be getting a welder, nice compressor, air tools, sand blaster, etc. I have been looking for something decent to start with and have a few leads, nothing solid yet.

    22. Member brobs is back's Avatar
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      09-03-2012 09:25 PM #47
      Quote Originally Posted by tauntedmonster View Post
      You have clearly never lived in a state in the salt belt. Nobody could afford to drive a car if they replaced every part that was rusty.

      In places where they salt the roads, no car can be repaired clinically by the manual. You have to work around the rust, it's just an extra hurdle.

      Also, it takes a keyboard commando to know one. You give a lot of ****ty advice; I suggest going outside once in a while
      Werd up to this knowledge being dropped.
      Quote Originally Posted by Paul Harley
      yo, is that a wolf?
      MODS IN THE SIG: MY MODS IS IN THE SIG!

    23. Member Pineapplegti !'s Avatar
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      09-03-2012 10:16 PM #48
      Quote Originally Posted by VT-MKJett View Post
      That means a lot coming from someone in NV! I used to live in Phoenix and went to Las Vegas often, I know how clean the cars are out there. VT is rust central.
      Quote Originally Posted by tauntedmonster View Post
      You have clearly never lived in a state in the salt belt. Nobody could afford to drive a car if they replaced every part that was rusty.

      In places where they salt the roads, no car can be repaired clinically by the manual. You have to work around the rust, it's just an extra hurdle.

      Also, it takes a keyboard commando to know one. You give a lot of ****ty advice; I suggest going outside once in a while
      Buy a car from me.. 1000 dollars more on the price for shipping.. no rust.. end of story..
      autocrats...

    24. Banned VT-MKJett's Avatar
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      09-04-2012 12:45 AM #49
      Quote Originally Posted by Pineapplegti ! View Post
      Buy a car from me.. 1000 dollars more on the price for shipping.. no rust.. end of story..
      I would love to get a car from out west. Some day when I have the means I will. I would love to find something decent out there, fly out and road trip it home. Someone in VT is supposed to call me tomorrow about a Jetta that was in CA and has only seen one winter in VT think they want 975$. Will see.

    25. Member tauntedmonster's Avatar
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      09-04-2012 10:47 AM #50
      Quote Originally Posted by Pineapplegti ! View Post
      Buy a car from me.. 1000 dollars more on the price for shipping.. no rust.. end of story..
      A little hair on my chest and a colorful vocabulary costs a lost less than $1000.
      Quote Originally Posted by soccergk
      looks like chocolate pudding....why the hell did you paint it brown? to match the **** you have for brains

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