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    Thread: 09A Need To Change Solenoids - Large Photo Of Valve Body

    1. 08-25-2012 04:41 PM #1
      I need to change all the solenoids on my sons 2003 1.8T Jetta that has the 5 speed Tiptonic trans. I have enclosed a photo of a valve body. In looking at the body it appears some of the solenoids blocks other solenoids from being removed.

      Update: There is a sequence to the order of how you change out these solenoids. Photos and explanations of what solenoids need to be chageout first in this thread.
      Last edited by AzViper; 09-11-2012 at 10:38 PM.

    2. 08-25-2012 05:41 PM #2
      Found what each solenoid is,


    3. Member
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      08-26-2012 01:54 AM #3
      there's no particular order for removing and assembly.
      You will need to remove N91 in order to remove N90.......also N283 and N282 are removed together.

    4. 08-26-2012 09:34 PM #4
      I am not sure I will be able to pull this off. I have really big hands and forearms. I am confident I can do the job but physically I am not due to the tight area.
      Last edited by AzViper; 09-10-2012 at 12:28 AM.

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      08-27-2012 12:48 PM #5
      See this thread...this guy pulled the transmission to the back of the car to gain some room at the front.

      http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...-09A-Tiptronic

      You can also remove the front of the car....is fast and easy and you will get a lot of room to do this solenoid work. You don't have to remove the radiator and A/C condenser....just the bumper, head lights and radiator frame.....you will spend less than 20 minutes removing the front components.

    6. 08-27-2012 09:47 PM #6
      Quote Originally Posted by carfreak01 View Post
      See this thread...this guy pulled the transmission to the back of the car to gain some room at the front.

      http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...-09A-Tiptronic

      You can also remove the front of the car....is fast and easy and you will get a lot of room to do this solenoid work. You don't have to remove the radiator and A/C condenser....just the bumper, head lights and radiator frame.....you will spend less than 20 minutes removing the front components.
      Thanks... I had already copied this and printed this out over the weekend. Still don't know what fluid to use as I do not want to pay the local VW over priced crap. So many people in these forums have used other fluids but I am on the ropes. Been reading but have yet to find a fluid that they claim can be used...

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      08-27-2012 10:03 PM #7
      The fluid thing for the 09A is really tricky.....a lot of people have tried different fluids with good results....but I haven't find yet an actual replacement for the VW fluid.
      You can try and look for something similar and give it a try but it will be risky.

      I used VW's ultra expensive ATF, I didn't have the guts to try something different.

    8. Member CoolAirVw's Avatar
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      08-28-2012 12:53 PM #8
      With it in the car there is a order. You also want to structure what you do as you can misplace peices then wonder where they go as you reassemble.

      I've done many of these but dont have the process memorized.

      You do want to remove some to get to others, but overall you want to remove one at a time and then reinstall so that you dont forget where stuff goes.

      Document what you do in case someone else asks this then you can be the hero.
      Last edited by CoolAirVw; 09-09-2012 at 09:45 AM.
      Auto trans fluid change or flush will not make a trans fail. Stop spreading the wives tale/urban myth.
      ASE Master Certified Technician with L1 Advanced Diagnostic Rating Recently passed ASE certification for Light Diesel repair.
      www.KansasCityTdi.com

    9. 08-28-2012 10:06 PM #9
      Thanks guys... I am going to order the solenoids on Friday when I get back to Tucson. Will order from Cobra Transmissions. I think the set was $311.00 with an included gasket. I plan to do one at a time and just for giggles will have a video camera on if I can.

    10. 09-03-2012 07:34 PM #10
      Got my son to go to Autozone so they could pull the codes from the car. Just recently the engine has been stalling in traffic. The codes that were pulled were, P0733, P0322, and P0732. I suspect the P0322 must be a sensor at the crankcase and needs to be replaced and the other two codes are the transmission. He has parked the Jetta until I replace all the solenoids due to wanting to shift out of 1st gear.
      Last edited by AzViper; 09-28-2012 at 11:36 AM.

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      09-04-2012 10:23 PM #11
      Quote Originally Posted by AzViper View Post
      Got my son go to Autozone so they could pull the codes from the car. Just recently the engine has been stalling in traffic. The codes that were pulled were, P0733, P0322, and P0732. I suspect the P0322 must be a sensor at the crankcase and needs to be replaced and the other two codes are the transmission. He has parked the Jetta until I replace all the solenoids due to wanting to shift out of 1st gear.
      For future reference, codes are explained here: http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index...ry:Fault_Codes

      Yes, P0322 refers to G28, aka engine speed sensor, aka crank position sensor. It's on the front of the block near the bell housing. Though usually it causes problems starting when it goes bad, not dying in traffic.

      Other codes are 'incorrect ratio'. That is, the TCM and/or the ECU determine the engine is going too fast for the indicated road speed and the gear that the tranny is in. Or at least the gear that the TCM *thinks* the tranny is in. This can be caused by a sticking solenoid: the TCM commands a shift, and does not get any over or under current conditions, but in reality a solenoid sticks and does not shift. It can also be caused by wear on the frictions and other real mechanical problms in the transmission, so solenoids *might* not solve your problem.

      Could also be something as simple as low fluid level. I'd stick to the VW fluid.

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      09-04-2012 10:30 PM #12
      Quote Originally Posted by AzViper View Post
      I am not sure I will be able to pull this off. I have really big hands and forearms. I am confident I can do the job but physically I am not. I am 6' 4" and have a 60 inch chest, and big shoulders. I have raced top fuel hydros, Baja 1000 a number of times. I am just a large guy who has a son that needs my help.
      Well, if it's his car (and assuming he has skinnier arms), get him to do the work under your guidance while you drink beer

    13. 09-04-2012 11:59 PM #13
      Quote Originally Posted by Charlie_M View Post
      For future reference, codes are explained here: http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index...ry:Fault_Codes

      Yes, P0322 refers to G28, aka engine speed sensor, aka crank position sensor. It's on the front of the block near the bell housing. Though usually it causes problems starting when it goes bad, not dying in traffic.

      Other codes are 'incorrect ratio'. That is, the TCM and/or the ECU determine the engine is going too fast for the indicated road speed and the gear that the tranny is in. Or at least the gear that the TCM *thinks* the tranny is in. This can be caused by a sticking solenoid: the TCM commands a shift, and does not get any over or under current conditions, but in reality a solenoid sticks and does not shift. It can also be caused by wear on the frictions and other real mechanical problms in the transmission, so solenoids *might* not solve your problem.

      Could also be something as simple as low fluid level. I'd stick to the VW fluid.
      The Jetta was shifting AOK up until just a few weeks ago. No signs of and fluid leaking. Going to change the solenoids and go from there.

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      09-05-2012 08:04 PM #14
      I'm about to do the same thing in my 2003 1.8. Which solenoid replacement kit did you purchase? I don't want to buy the wrong one and I'm pretty new to VW.

    15. 09-06-2012 01:38 AM #15
      Quote Originally Posted by ExSailor View Post
      I'm about to do the same thing in my 2003 1.8. Which solenoid replacement kit did you purchase? I don't want to buy the wrong one and I'm pretty new to VW.

      http://cobratransmission.com/index.p...ucts_id=803021

    16. 09-08-2012 06:45 PM #16
      Went to my local VW dealer after reading in these forums for weeks. I had decided to buy the VW ATF fluid. After spending about $125.00 for 4 litters of ATF and pissed off that dealerships are ripping people off I decided to call a friend who has a friend that is an Amsoil dealer. Wish I would have called him first.

      He said he had ATF for two transmissions. He first told me he had it for the 01M and I said no that will not work. He then said he had it for the 09A and I said "BINGO". Below is the solenoids from Cobra Transmission ($319.00) the small little plastic retainer for the fill plug. and a bottle of VW over the top $29.10 per litter ATF.



      Took the VW ATF back and bought the Amsoil ATF.



      This is pulled from AMSOIL website...


      LUBRICANTS & FLUIDS:

      Engine Oil
      Grade 1......SEO[1]
      Performance AMSOIL European Car Formula 100% Synthetic 5W-40 Motor Oil (AFLQT) AMSOIL European Car Formula 100% Synthetic 5W-40 Motor Oil (AFLQT)

      Drain Interval Information

      All TEMPS......5W-30, 5W-40, 0W-40
      Manual Transmission,02J (5-SPD)......GL-4
      All TEMPS......75W-90 [2]

      Synthetic Manual Transmission and Transaxle Gear Lube (75W-90) API GL-4 (MTGQT)
      Automatic Transmission,01M......AE [3]

      Synthetic Multi-Vehicle Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATFQT)
      Automatic Transmission,09A......SLF [4]

      Synthetic Multi-Vehicle Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATFQT)
      Differential, Front W/ AT......GL-4
      All TEMPS......75W-90 [5] [6]

      Synthetic Manual Transmission and Transaxle Gear Lube (75W-90) API GL-4 (MTGQT)
      Fluids
      Clutch Fluid......HBH
      AMSOIL Brake Fluid DOT-4 (BF4SN)
      Power Steering Fluid......PS
      Power Steering Fluid (PSFCN)
      Clutch Fluid......
      No AMSOIL Product Recommendation
      Brake Fluid......HBH
      AMSOIL Brake Fluid DOT-4 (BF4SN)

      [1] Use engine oil meeting Volkswagen Oil Standard 502 00
      [2] VW part no. G 052 726 A2 (synthetic)or equivalent.
      [3] VW part no. G 052 162 A2
      [4] VW part no. G 052 990 A2
      [5] Final drive for Automatic transmission only.
      [6] VW part no. G 052 145 (synthetic), or equivalent


      FILTERS:
      Oil Filter 25,000-Mile Ea Oil Filter (EAO37)
      Oil Filter MANN Oil Filter (W71930)
      Air Filter Absolute Efficiency Air Filter (EAA208)
      Air Filter MANN Air Filter (C371531)
      Cabin Air Filter MANN Cabin Air Filter (CUK2862) [1]
      Fuel Filter MANN Fuel Filter (WK7301)
      Transmission Filter WIX 58609 Auto Tran Filter

      [1] Not all models may be outfitted with a cabin air filter. Please verify before ordering.



      NGK PLUGS AND WIRESETS:
      PREMIUMPLATINUM PLUG PFR6Q * # NGK6458
      WIRESET WIRESET Direct Fire Ignition [1]

      [1] No Wires Req'd



      WIPER BLADES:
      Blade Class Driver Passenger Rear
      ExactFit T211 T191 T151
      NeoForm T16210 T16190 T16140
      Winter T37210 T37205 T37150




      CHASSIS LUBRICATION:
      0 Fittings, 0 Plugs




      CAPACITIES:
      Engine, with filter..........4.8 quarts [1]
      Cooling System, Initial Fill..........5 quarts
      AMSOIL Antifreeze and Engine Coolant
      Automatic Transmission, 09A Initial Fill..........2.6 quarts
      Automatic Transmission, 01M Initial Fill..........3.2 quarts
      Automatic Transmission, Total Fill
      5 speed 09A..........7.4 quarts
      4 speed 01M..........5.6 quarts
      Manual Transmission, 02J (5-SPD)..........4.2 pints
      Differential, With AT Front..........1.7 pints [2]

      [1] To prevent overfilling during oil changes, add 0.5 liter
      (0.5 quart) less than capacity shown, start engine, let run
      until engine operating temperature is approx. 60 °C (140 °F)
      , switch engine off, wait 3 minutes, check dipstick,
      fill to full mark as indicated on dipstick (may be more or
      less than 0.5 liter (0.5 quart) depending on model).
      [2] Final drive for Automatic transmission only.



      TORQUES:
      Oil Drain Plug.....22 ft/lbs
      Manual Transmission 02J
      Fill Plug NA ft/lbs
      Drain Plug NA ft/lbs
      Manual Transmission 02M
      Fill Plug 22 ft/lbs
      Drain Plug NA ft/lbs




      OTHER TOP QUALITY PRODUCTS:
      Mothers® Car Care Appearance Products
      By-Pass Oil Filters

      PI Performance Improver Gasoline Additive

      Product Recommendations and Drain Interval Chart
      Last edited by AzViper; 09-10-2012 at 12:25 AM.

    17. 09-08-2012 07:00 PM #17
      In draining the transmission I measured 110oz. of VW ATF that drained from the transmission. Another 5 ounces drained out once the pan was removed for a total of 115 ounces. I allowed the fluid to drain until nothing left came out. I have the car on jackstands and leveled front to back and side to side. For added precaution I placed cement blocks and plywood on either side of the car.





      Last edited by AzViper; 09-10-2012 at 07:21 AM.

    18. 09-08-2012 07:16 PM #18
      Here is the dogbone rear mount on the bottom of the transmission. You will need to remove this to pull the transmission back a few inches. This only takes minutes to remove and will help make more room on the front side of the pan aiding in the solenoid replacement.



      I used the rear cross member to attached the strap so that the transmission can be pulled back.



      Prior to pulling the transmission back there are (4) 10mm nuts that need to be removed so that the wiring harness will detach from the front of the transmission oil pan. I hooked the other end of the strap to a the bottom of the transmission instead of the CV joint. Much better option and less likely of tearing the CV joint boot.

      Last edited by AzViper; 09-10-2012 at 08:04 AM.

    19. 09-08-2012 07:24 PM #19
      This photo is looking straight down from the top after the battery and battery box has been removed, In this photo you can see the (4) 10mm studs on the transmission oil pan. They hold the wiring harness and the power steering line. Once removed you can pull these wires away from the pan.

      Last edited by AzViper; 09-22-2012 at 01:17 PM.

    20. 09-08-2012 07:38 PM #20
      After the battery box is removed the linkage and switch needs to be removed. Take note the position the switcth is in so that the switch can be reinstalled in the same position. I took a number of photos just to be safe.


    21. 09-08-2012 07:49 PM #21
      With the switch removed and the wiring harness pulled back now its time to start removing all the bolts.

      Last edited by AzViper; 09-10-2012 at 07:27 AM.

    22. 09-08-2012 10:46 PM #22
      My sons Jetta does not have the red retaining cap on the fill plug. Either the fluid has been changed or it was replaced. I have the service records and I know the Jetta was in the shop for scheduled changes. This may explain the black plastic retainer.



      This photo shows the fluid level check plug.


    23. 09-09-2012 11:56 AM #23
      I'm doing my 2004 Jetta this weekend too. Most of the prep is done and I'm ready to take off the pan. So far, looks like I've got enough room so I have left the dog-bone in place.

      I was able to carefully work the curvy black hardline in front of the pan forward and down out of the way rather than tying it forward. It took some fussing with the flexible part of the line near the back of the trans. (I think it's a cooling loop for the power steering line...)

      I got a 4 L jug of FUCHS ATF 3353 (part no G-052-990-A2 ) for about $50 from these guys:
      http://www.rmeuropean.com/search.aspx?keyword=g052990a2
      who also have the trans plug and safety cap.

      I got the whole solenoid kid from Cobra, but I still can't decide if I want to "replace them all while it's open" or "don't touch anything I don't have to". Both seem like sound principles. Needs N92 for sure. Gonna decide when I get a little farther.

      Good luck with your swap. I'll post if I hit a snag.

      Steve "my WORKING car is on Mars" Collins

    24. 09-09-2012 07:09 PM #24
      Quote Originally Posted by scollins799 View Post
      I'm doing my 2004 Jetta this weekend too. Most of the prep is done and I'm ready to take off the pan. So far, looks like I've got enough room so I have left the dog-bone in place.

      I was able to carefully work the curvy black hardline in front of the pan forward and down out of the way rather than tying it forward. It took some fussing with the flexible part of the line near the back of the trans. (I think it's a cooling loop for the power steering line...)

      I got a 4 L jug of FUCHS ATF 3353 (part no G-052-990-A2 ) for about $50 from these guys:
      http://www.rmeuropean.com/search.aspx?keyword=g052990a2
      who also have the trans plug and safety cap.

      I got the whole solenoid kid from Cobra, but I still can't decide if I want to "replace them all while it's open" or "don't touch anything I don't have to". Both seem like sound principles. Needs N92 for sure. Gonna decide when I get a little farther.

      Good luck with your swap. I'll post if I hit a snag.

      Steve "my WORKING car is on Mars" Collins
      Hey Steve, the power of the internet. I would like to hear your results so please post. Have been feeling a little under the weather today but heading out to pull the pan. Keep me updated. I will be posting photos for future issues for everyone. Personally I would replace all solenoids. If your going to have it down this far its a no brainer...

    25. 09-09-2012 09:20 PM #25
      Quote Originally Posted by AzViper View Post
      Hey Steve, the power of the internet. I would like to hear your results so please post. Have been feeling a little under the weather today but heading out to pull the pan. Keep me updated. I will be posting photos for future issues for everyone. Personally I would replace all solenoids. If your going to have it down this far its a no brainer...

      In mine, (130K mi) the little plastic connector latches were VERY brittle and I broke a couple of them trying to feel how they work. It seems like the actual metal blade connectors have some kind of detent, so I'm just going to put things back together and cross my fingers. If you squeeze the plastic latch in just the right way and jiggle gently they will come off without breaking but because of space it's often difficult to get your fingers in the right geometry. I also had factory tie-wrap on on of the wire bundles break from incidental tugging on the wire harness. It took me about an hour to hunt down the fragments and make sure they were out of there. I made sure I found all the tiny bits from the connectors too.

      After the adventure with the connectors, I decided not to swap N93. It's the biggest pain, because you have to de-mate the main harness connector. I did all swap all the other so I'm rolling the dice on the infant-mortality and unintended consequences. It's pretty tight, but I was able to get to everything without using the dog-bone trick or putting the front of the car in "maintenance position" to make more room. I wanted more room the most when I was hunting for tie-wrap bits.

      The inside of my pan had lots of bubbled paint. Once I started messing with it, it came off in sizable sheets. I have not yet decided yet if I'm going to strip the whole inside to bare metal, or leave the paint that seems "sound"

      Swapping out a few of the solenoids is a bit of a puzzle. I was trying to do them one by one, but the ones in the center of the valve body need to come off at the same time for access to connectors, bolts etc. There is one

      My pan came from the factory with just RTV (no gasket). I'm not sure yet how I'm going to put things back together, RTV only, or RTV with one of the 2 different gaskets I got from Cobra Transmission.

      I'm taking a break to feed before I try to slap the pan back on.

      Steve

    26. 09-09-2012 10:55 PM #26
      I pulled the hardline power steering line down and out of the way too. Rather easy due to the steel line having rubber hoses at each end. Made it much easier to get to the solenoids.

      I started with replacing N282 / N283 first. Then I moved onto N92 of which had a nut and the bolt on the backside appeared to be secured with no problem of the bolt falling back into the case as Coolvdub had reported in his thread, http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...-09A-Tiptronic - - - - N89, N281, need to be removed in order to replace N91, but N91 needs to be removed to install N90 first. N88 needs to be pulled out and the bolt directly below the N88 mounting bolt needs to be out in order to reach the mounting bolt on the right side of N93. Once N93 is bolted down the bolt below N88 can be replace followed by installing N88.

      I know this sounds complicated but its not. The key is keeping track of wires and what wires go to what solenoids. Take pictures for reference as your car may have different colored connectores or wires. I left the wires connected to the solenoids and allowed the solenoid to dangle from the wires so not to lose track as you will have N89, N281, and N91 floating in space in order to install N90.

      Hope this helps as its the best way I can explain it. I had ask this question before I got started if there was a sequence and yet there is a sequence when the valve body is installed and not easily seen while looking at it from underneath. Take my advise and work slowly and you will not have any problems.

      Last edited by AzViper; 09-22-2012 at 01:22 PM.

    27. 09-09-2012 11:24 PM #27
      As you can see I have made even more room by moving the power steering lines down and away from the pan. The line has rubber hose on each end. Takes a lillte work but you can work the line downward and out of the way.



      Here the power steering lines are below and away from the front of the pan.



      Here you can see the front of the pan clear of all lines.



      I may also say there is no need to remove the driverside wheel. I did remove the bottom skirt that is screwed to the front bumper.

      All the bolts have been removed. I did have a stripped out bolt on the top of which leads me to think someone had been inside this pan before.



      The pan is really clean inside. No blistering of the paint as others have seen. There was a patch of paint missing.

      Last edited by AzViper; 09-22-2012 at 01:18 PM.

    28. 09-09-2012 11:32 PM #28
      Here is the solenoid body and solenoids.







      I had my laptop out under the hood with this image for reference to look at.



      The pan with the gasket. I used an adhesive to secure the gasket to the pan. Made it much easier to put the pan on.



      The filler plug. I may go get a new plug as the red retainer I bought is not for this plug.

      Last edited by AzViper; 09-10-2012 at 12:00 AM.

    29. 09-09-2012 11:47 PM #29
      I did replace all 9 solenoids. Was much easier than I was led to believe. By moving the power steering line help clear the front of the pan. By removing the dogbone and pulling the transmisson back help to aid in more room. With all the room I was able to take the pan out the bottom. Plenty of clearence to get the pan out.

      I will not be placing the temp probe down into the filler hole as it would hit the solenoids. I will just get a reading from outside of the tranny case. I really thought it was going to be a problem but I was able to get my arms and hands up into this tight area with no problems at all. I think others would be wise to move the power steering line downward. There is a 10mm bolt that holds the line in place on the top side of the tranny / driverside that needs to be removed. Its a little tuff to manage the line downward but it will make your day much easier.
      Last edited by AzViper; 09-10-2012 at 07:17 AM.

    30. 09-09-2012 11:53 PM #30
      On another note when I pulled the pan another 5 ounces of fluid came out. So the total fluid that drain from my tranny was 115 ounces. This is a very accurate reading as I measured everything that drained out.

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      09-10-2012 12:08 AM #31
      Quote Originally Posted by AzViper View Post
      All the bolt of been removed. I did have a stripped out bolt on the top of which leads me to think someone had been inside this pan before.
      Yes, someone has been in there before. That sloppy and excessive white silicone is not how they come from Japan.

    32. 09-10-2012 11:48 PM #32
      I got the Jetta all back together and everything is AOK. I ended up putting 120 ounces of ATF. I put 96 ounces in then started the card. Let it warm up some and went through all the gears. Next I had the remaining 24 ounces of ATF and again started the car and went through all the gears. I never did pull the overflow plug. I knew exactly how much ATF I had drained and added 5 more ounces.

      It turns out that the CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR is bad as the EPC light come on every once in a while. When that happens the idle RPM goes to about 1100 and the car will die and will have some wierd shifting issues.

      Its my understanding the sensor is near the oil filter. The EPC light is intermittent when its on the engine idle is high, the car will die, and the RPMs are all over the place. When the EPC light is out the car runs great...
      Last edited by AzViper; 09-11-2012 at 02:15 AM.

    33. 09-11-2012 05:02 AM #33
      My 2004 is also back together and seems to be working on one test drive around the hood. It shifted properly while cold and went up and down through the gears as it used to both in auto mode and tip. I ended up putting the pan on with just RTV (no gasket) since that's how it came from the factory and managed to get the surfaces nice and clean. No signs of leakage so far.

      While I was waiting for the RTV to set, I remembered that I could do an electrical checkout of the solenoids to at least verify that everything was hooked up. To do it, I pulled the connector off the TCU (next to the cabin air filter at the top right of the firewall) and measured the resistance between ground and the pin to each solenoid. I most of the info to do it from here

      http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?3469274

      For this pass, I just clipped directly to the trans to get "ground" for the measurements since I still had the ground to the engine block was disconnected. Each of the solenoids came back in the normal range so that gave me confidence that they were all hooked up and working electrically. On my car, I was having the "no shift when cold" issue even though the resistance of solenoid N92 looked just fine. That implies it must me a mechanical issue with the solenoid rather than something with the windings.

      I got 121 fl oz of fluid out when I did the drain and put the same amount back in plus a couple more. I didn't bother to level the car for the solenoid swap, just raised the front. Tomorrow I plan to warm up the car, level it carefully and drain out any excess fluid via the check port.

      Glad to hear you've got yours back on the road too AzViper. I wonder if data from the crank sensor is used to tell the transmission what the input RPM is. If so, then that would certainly effect the shifting.

      I have entered the gaping maw of the Tiptronic and have emerged victorious!

      steve

    34. 09-11-2012 08:44 AM #34
      Steve I too will check the level of fluid once I get everything corrected. Going to pull the crankshaft sensor clean it and the contacts and reinstall it while waiting for a new sensor to arrive. Then will drive the car for a while. If everything checks out I then will be off to Autozone to have them read the codes again.

      The EPC light has a direct connection to how it shifts due to the wild RPMs we are encountering. Because the light comes on and off I am suspecting a bad connection, will see today...

      I pulled out the crankshaft sensor and there was a small deposit on the center of the sensor. I cleaned and check the connection. I reistalled it and drove for 30 miles and everything appeared AOK but the car shutdown and the EPC light came on. So a new sensor needs to be installed.

      What a fun car to drive. This being my sons car I did not realize how damn fast this car is. How has he not gotten a ticket I have no clue. WOW!!!

      Here is the sensor after being pulled out.




      This is the old sensor still in the block. You can see my 10mm socket and extension.



      The sensor has been removed. You will also notice I took out the oil filter. Locating and pulling the sensor out you will need to remove the filter to make it easier. I had to use a small pair of Channel Locks to grap the sensor and pullout.



      Here is the gray connector. Rather straight forawrd on seperating the two plugs. You will benfit reaching the connector if you remove the wiring harness from the small bracket that is seen in the top right of this photo. The photo was taken after I reinstalled everything.








      Keith
      Last edited by AzViper; 09-12-2012 at 08:44 AM.

    35. 09-11-2012 09:45 AM #35
      As you can see no EPC or Check Engine on the instrument panel. Do need to check the brakes though. I do have some shifting issues. If the car is driven normal and no hard accelerations the car shifts perfect through all gears and downshifts through all gears, but if I accelerate hard from a dead stop the transmission will not shift out of 1st gear. Almost sounds and feels its slipping as the RPM go high before I can release the gas pedal.

      Last edited by AzViper; 09-17-2012 at 12:05 AM.

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