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    Thread: 09A Need To Change Solenoids - Large Photo Of Valve Body

    1. 08-25-2012 03:41 PM #1
      I need to change all the solenoids on my sons 2003 1.8T Jetta that has the 5 speed Tiptonic trans. I have enclosed a photo of a valve body. In looking at the body it appears some of the solenoids blocks other solenoids from being removed.

      Update: There is a sequence to the order of how you change out these solenoids. Photos and explanations of what solenoids need to be chageout first in this thread.
      Last edited by AzViper; 09-11-2012 at 09:38 PM.

    2. 08-25-2012 04:41 PM #2
      Found what each solenoid is,


    3. Member
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      08-26-2012 12:54 AM #3
      there's no particular order for removing and assembly.
      You will need to remove N91 in order to remove N90.......also N283 and N282 are removed together.

    4. 08-26-2012 08:34 PM #4
      I am not sure I will be able to pull this off. I have really big hands and forearms. I am confident I can do the job but physically I am not due to the tight area.
      Last edited by AzViper; 09-09-2012 at 11:28 PM.

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      08-27-2012 11:48 AM #5
      See this thread...this guy pulled the transmission to the back of the car to gain some room at the front.

      http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...-09A-Tiptronic

      You can also remove the front of the car....is fast and easy and you will get a lot of room to do this solenoid work. You don't have to remove the radiator and A/C condenser....just the bumper, head lights and radiator frame.....you will spend less than 20 minutes removing the front components.

    6. 08-27-2012 08:47 PM #6
      Quote Originally Posted by carfreak01 View Post
      See this thread...this guy pulled the transmission to the back of the car to gain some room at the front.

      http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...-09A-Tiptronic

      You can also remove the front of the car....is fast and easy and you will get a lot of room to do this solenoid work. You don't have to remove the radiator and A/C condenser....just the bumper, head lights and radiator frame.....you will spend less than 20 minutes removing the front components.
      Thanks... I had already copied this and printed this out over the weekend. Still don't know what fluid to use as I do not want to pay the local VW over priced crap. So many people in these forums have used other fluids but I am on the ropes. Been reading but have yet to find a fluid that they claim can be used...

    7. Member
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      08-27-2012 09:03 PM #7
      The fluid thing for the 09A is really tricky.....a lot of people have tried different fluids with good results....but I haven't find yet an actual replacement for the VW fluid.
      You can try and look for something similar and give it a try but it will be risky.

      I used VW's ultra expensive ATF, I didn't have the guts to try something different.

    8. Member CoolAirVw's Avatar
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      08-28-2012 11:53 AM #8
      With it in the car there is a order. You also want to structure what you do as you can misplace peices then wonder where they go as you reassemble.

      I've done many of these but dont have the process memorized.

      You do want to remove some to get to others, but overall you want to remove one at a time and then reinstall so that you dont forget where stuff goes.

      Document what you do in case someone else asks this then you can be the hero.
      Last edited by CoolAirVw; 09-09-2012 at 08:45 AM.
      Auto trans fluid change or flush will not make a trans fail. Stop spreading the wives tale/urban myth.
      ASE Master Certified Technician with L1 Advanced Diagnostic Rating Recently passed ASE certification for Light Diesel repair.
      www.KansasCityTdi.com

    9. 08-28-2012 09:06 PM #9
      Thanks guys... I am going to order the solenoids on Friday when I get back to Tucson. Will order from Cobra Transmissions. I think the set was $311.00 with an included gasket. I plan to do one at a time and just for giggles will have a video camera on if I can.

    10. 09-03-2012 06:34 PM #10
      Got my son to go to Autozone so they could pull the codes from the car. Just recently the engine has been stalling in traffic. The codes that were pulled were, P0733, P0322, and P0732. I suspect the P0322 must be a sensor at the crankcase and needs to be replaced and the other two codes are the transmission. He has parked the Jetta until I replace all the solenoids due to wanting to shift out of 1st gear.
      Last edited by AzViper; 09-28-2012 at 10:36 AM.

    11. Member
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      09-04-2012 09:23 PM #11
      Quote Originally Posted by AzViper View Post
      Got my son go to Autozone so they could pull the codes from the car. Just recently the engine has been stalling in traffic. The codes that were pulled were, P0733, P0322, and P0732. I suspect the P0322 must be a sensor at the crankcase and needs to be replaced and the other two codes are the transmission. He has parked the Jetta until I replace all the solenoids due to wanting to shift out of 1st gear.
      For future reference, codes are explained here: http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index...ry:Fault_Codes

      Yes, P0322 refers to G28, aka engine speed sensor, aka crank position sensor. It's on the front of the block near the bell housing. Though usually it causes problems starting when it goes bad, not dying in traffic.

      Other codes are 'incorrect ratio'. That is, the TCM and/or the ECU determine the engine is going too fast for the indicated road speed and the gear that the tranny is in. Or at least the gear that the TCM *thinks* the tranny is in. This can be caused by a sticking solenoid: the TCM commands a shift, and does not get any over or under current conditions, but in reality a solenoid sticks and does not shift. It can also be caused by wear on the frictions and other real mechanical problms in the transmission, so solenoids *might* not solve your problem.

      Could also be something as simple as low fluid level. I'd stick to the VW fluid.

    12. Member
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      09-04-2012 09:30 PM #12
      Quote Originally Posted by AzViper View Post
      I am not sure I will be able to pull this off. I have really big hands and forearms. I am confident I can do the job but physically I am not. I am 6' 4" and have a 60 inch chest, and big shoulders. I have raced top fuel hydros, Baja 1000 a number of times. I am just a large guy who has a son that needs my help.
      Well, if it's his car (and assuming he has skinnier arms), get him to do the work under your guidance while you drink beer

    13. 09-04-2012 10:59 PM #13
      Quote Originally Posted by Charlie_M View Post
      For future reference, codes are explained here: http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index...ry:Fault_Codes

      Yes, P0322 refers to G28, aka engine speed sensor, aka crank position sensor. It's on the front of the block near the bell housing. Though usually it causes problems starting when it goes bad, not dying in traffic.

      Other codes are 'incorrect ratio'. That is, the TCM and/or the ECU determine the engine is going too fast for the indicated road speed and the gear that the tranny is in. Or at least the gear that the TCM *thinks* the tranny is in. This can be caused by a sticking solenoid: the TCM commands a shift, and does not get any over or under current conditions, but in reality a solenoid sticks and does not shift. It can also be caused by wear on the frictions and other real mechanical problms in the transmission, so solenoids *might* not solve your problem.

      Could also be something as simple as low fluid level. I'd stick to the VW fluid.
      The Jetta was shifting AOK up until just a few weeks ago. No signs of and fluid leaking. Going to change the solenoids and go from there.

    14. n00b ExSailor's Avatar
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      09-05-2012 07:04 PM #14
      I'm about to do the same thing in my 2003 1.8. Which solenoid replacement kit did you purchase? I don't want to buy the wrong one and I'm pretty new to VW.

    15. 09-06-2012 12:38 AM #15
      Quote Originally Posted by ExSailor View Post
      I'm about to do the same thing in my 2003 1.8. Which solenoid replacement kit did you purchase? I don't want to buy the wrong one and I'm pretty new to VW.

      http://cobratransmission.com/index.p...ucts_id=803021

    16. 09-08-2012 05:45 PM #16
      Went to my local VW dealer after reading in these forums for weeks. I had decided to buy the VW ATF fluid. After spending about $125.00 for 4 litters of ATF and pissed off that dealerships are ripping people off I decided to call a friend who has a friend that is an Amsoil dealer. Wish I would have called him first.

      He said he had ATF for two transmissions. He first told me he had it for the 01M and I said no that will not work. He then said he had it for the 09A and I said "BINGO". Below is the solenoids from Cobra Transmission ($319.00) the small little plastic retainer for the fill plug. and a bottle of VW over the top $29.10 per litter ATF.



      Took the VW ATF back and bought the Amsoil ATF.



      This is pulled from AMSOIL website...


      LUBRICANTS & FLUIDS:

      Engine Oil
      Grade 1......SEO[1]
      Performance AMSOIL European Car Formula 100% Synthetic 5W-40 Motor Oil (AFLQT) AMSOIL European Car Formula 100% Synthetic 5W-40 Motor Oil (AFLQT)

      Drain Interval Information

      All TEMPS......5W-30, 5W-40, 0W-40
      Manual Transmission,02J (5-SPD)......GL-4
      All TEMPS......75W-90 [2]

      Synthetic Manual Transmission and Transaxle Gear Lube (75W-90) API GL-4 (MTGQT)
      Automatic Transmission,01M......AE [3]

      Synthetic Multi-Vehicle Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATFQT)
      Automatic Transmission,09A......SLF [4]

      Synthetic Multi-Vehicle Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATFQT)
      Differential, Front W/ AT......GL-4
      All TEMPS......75W-90 [5] [6]

      Synthetic Manual Transmission and Transaxle Gear Lube (75W-90) API GL-4 (MTGQT)
      Fluids
      Clutch Fluid......HBH
      AMSOIL Brake Fluid DOT-4 (BF4SN)
      Power Steering Fluid......PS
      Power Steering Fluid (PSFCN)
      Clutch Fluid......
      No AMSOIL Product Recommendation
      Brake Fluid......HBH
      AMSOIL Brake Fluid DOT-4 (BF4SN)

      [1] Use engine oil meeting Volkswagen Oil Standard 502 00
      [2] VW part no. G 052 726 A2 (synthetic)or equivalent.
      [3] VW part no. G 052 162 A2
      [4] VW part no. G 052 990 A2
      [5] Final drive for Automatic transmission only.
      [6] VW part no. G 052 145 (synthetic), or equivalent


      FILTERS:
      Oil Filter 25,000-Mile Ea Oil Filter (EAO37)
      Oil Filter MANN Oil Filter (W71930)
      Air Filter Absolute Efficiency Air Filter (EAA208)
      Air Filter MANN Air Filter (C371531)
      Cabin Air Filter MANN Cabin Air Filter (CUK2862) [1]
      Fuel Filter MANN Fuel Filter (WK7301)
      Transmission Filter WIX 58609 Auto Tran Filter

      [1] Not all models may be outfitted with a cabin air filter. Please verify before ordering.



      NGK PLUGS AND WIRESETS:
      PREMIUMPLATINUM PLUG PFR6Q * # NGK6458
      WIRESET WIRESET Direct Fire Ignition [1]

      [1] No Wires Req'd



      WIPER BLADES:
      Blade Class Driver Passenger Rear
      ExactFit T211 T191 T151
      NeoForm T16210 T16190 T16140
      Winter T37210 T37205 T37150




      CHASSIS LUBRICATION:
      0 Fittings, 0 Plugs




      CAPACITIES:
      Engine, with filter..........4.8 quarts [1]
      Cooling System, Initial Fill..........5 quarts
      AMSOIL Antifreeze and Engine Coolant
      Automatic Transmission, 09A Initial Fill..........2.6 quarts
      Automatic Transmission, 01M Initial Fill..........3.2 quarts
      Automatic Transmission, Total Fill
      5 speed 09A..........7.4 quarts
      4 speed 01M..........5.6 quarts
      Manual Transmission, 02J (5-SPD)..........4.2 pints
      Differential, With AT Front..........1.7 pints [2]

      [1] To prevent overfilling during oil changes, add 0.5 liter
      (0.5 quart) less than capacity shown, start engine, let run
      until engine operating temperature is approx. 60 °C (140 °F)
      , switch engine off, wait 3 minutes, check dipstick,
      fill to full mark as indicated on dipstick (may be more or
      less than 0.5 liter (0.5 quart) depending on model).
      [2] Final drive for Automatic transmission only.



      TORQUES:
      Oil Drain Plug.....22 ft/lbs
      Manual Transmission 02J
      Fill Plug NA ft/lbs
      Drain Plug NA ft/lbs
      Manual Transmission 02M
      Fill Plug 22 ft/lbs
      Drain Plug NA ft/lbs




      OTHER TOP QUALITY PRODUCTS:
      Mothers® Car Care Appearance Products
      By-Pass Oil Filters

      PI Performance Improver Gasoline Additive

      Product Recommendations and Drain Interval Chart
      Last edited by AzViper; 09-09-2012 at 11:25 PM.

    17. 09-08-2012 06:00 PM #17
      In draining the transmission I measured 110oz. of VW ATF that drained from the transmission. Another 5 ounces drained out once the pan was removed for a total of 115 ounces. I allowed the fluid to drain until nothing left came out. I have the car on jackstands and leveled front to back and side to side. For added precaution I placed cement blocks and plywood on either side of the car.





      Last edited by AzViper; 09-10-2012 at 06:21 AM.

    18. 09-08-2012 06:16 PM #18
      Here is the dogbone rear mount on the bottom of the transmission. You will need to remove this to pull the transmission back a few inches. This only takes minutes to remove and will help make more room on the front side of the pan aiding in the solenoid replacement.



      I used the rear cross member to attached the strap so that the transmission can be pulled back.



      Prior to pulling the transmission back there are (4) 10mm nuts that need to be removed so that the wiring harness will detach from the front of the transmission oil pan. I hooked the other end of the strap to a the bottom of the transmission instead of the CV joint. Much better option and less likely of tearing the CV joint boot.

      Last edited by AzViper; 09-10-2012 at 07:04 AM.

    19. 09-08-2012 06:24 PM #19
      This photo is looking straight down from the top after the battery and battery box has been removed, In this photo you can see the (4) 10mm studs on the transmission oil pan. They hold the wiring harness and the power steering line. Once removed you can pull these wires away from the pan.

      Last edited by AzViper; 09-22-2012 at 12:17 PM.

    20. 09-08-2012 06:38 PM #20
      After the battery box is removed the linkage and switch needs to be removed. Take note the position the switcth is in so that the switch can be reinstalled in the same position. I took a number of photos just to be safe.


    21. 09-08-2012 06:49 PM #21
      With the switch removed and the wiring harness pulled back now its time to start removing all the bolts.

      Last edited by AzViper; 09-10-2012 at 06:27 AM.

    22. 09-08-2012 09:46 PM #22
      My sons Jetta does not have the red retaining cap on the fill plug. Either the fluid has been changed or it was replaced. I have the service records and I know the Jetta was in the shop for scheduled changes. This may explain the black plastic retainer.



      This photo shows the fluid level check plug.


    23. 09-09-2012 10:56 AM #23
      I'm doing my 2004 Jetta this weekend too. Most of the prep is done and I'm ready to take off the pan. So far, looks like I've got enough room so I have left the dog-bone in place.

      I was able to carefully work the curvy black hardline in front of the pan forward and down out of the way rather than tying it forward. It took some fussing with the flexible part of the line near the back of the trans. (I think it's a cooling loop for the power steering line...)

      I got a 4 L jug of FUCHS ATF 3353 (part no G-052-990-A2 ) for about $50 from these guys:
      http://www.rmeuropean.com/search.aspx?keyword=g052990a2
      who also have the trans plug and safety cap.

      I got the whole solenoid kid from Cobra, but I still can't decide if I want to "replace them all while it's open" or "don't touch anything I don't have to". Both seem like sound principles. Needs N92 for sure. Gonna decide when I get a little farther.

      Good luck with your swap. I'll post if I hit a snag.

      Steve "my WORKING car is on Mars" Collins

    24. 09-09-2012 06:09 PM #24
      Quote Originally Posted by scollins799 View Post
      I'm doing my 2004 Jetta this weekend too. Most of the prep is done and I'm ready to take off the pan. So far, looks like I've got enough room so I have left the dog-bone in place.

      I was able to carefully work the curvy black hardline in front of the pan forward and down out of the way rather than tying it forward. It took some fussing with the flexible part of the line near the back of the trans. (I think it's a cooling loop for the power steering line...)

      I got a 4 L jug of FUCHS ATF 3353 (part no G-052-990-A2 ) for about $50 from these guys:
      http://www.rmeuropean.com/search.aspx?keyword=g052990a2
      who also have the trans plug and safety cap.

      I got the whole solenoid kid from Cobra, but I still can't decide if I want to "replace them all while it's open" or "don't touch anything I don't have to". Both seem like sound principles. Needs N92 for sure. Gonna decide when I get a little farther.

      Good luck with your swap. I'll post if I hit a snag.

      Steve "my WORKING car is on Mars" Collins
      Hey Steve, the power of the internet. I would like to hear your results so please post. Have been feeling a little under the weather today but heading out to pull the pan. Keep me updated. I will be posting photos for future issues for everyone. Personally I would replace all solenoids. If your going to have it down this far its a no brainer...

    25. 09-09-2012 08:20 PM #25
      Quote Originally Posted by AzViper View Post
      Hey Steve, the power of the internet. I would like to hear your results so please post. Have been feeling a little under the weather today but heading out to pull the pan. Keep me updated. I will be posting photos for future issues for everyone. Personally I would replace all solenoids. If your going to have it down this far its a no brainer...

      In mine, (130K mi) the little plastic connector latches were VERY brittle and I broke a couple of them trying to feel how they work. It seems like the actual metal blade connectors have some kind of detent, so I'm just going to put things back together and cross my fingers. If you squeeze the plastic latch in just the right way and jiggle gently they will come off without breaking but because of space it's often difficult to get your fingers in the right geometry. I also had factory tie-wrap on on of the wire bundles break from incidental tugging on the wire harness. It took me about an hour to hunt down the fragments and make sure they were out of there. I made sure I found all the tiny bits from the connectors too.

      After the adventure with the connectors, I decided not to swap N93. It's the biggest pain, because you have to de-mate the main harness connector. I did all swap all the other so I'm rolling the dice on the infant-mortality and unintended consequences. It's pretty tight, but I was able to get to everything without using the dog-bone trick or putting the front of the car in "maintenance position" to make more room. I wanted more room the most when I was hunting for tie-wrap bits.

      The inside of my pan had lots of bubbled paint. Once I started messing with it, it came off in sizable sheets. I have not yet decided yet if I'm going to strip the whole inside to bare metal, or leave the paint that seems "sound"

      Swapping out a few of the solenoids is a bit of a puzzle. I was trying to do them one by one, but the ones in the center of the valve body need to come off at the same time for access to connectors, bolts etc. There is one

      My pan came from the factory with just RTV (no gasket). I'm not sure yet how I'm going to put things back together, RTV only, or RTV with one of the 2 different gaskets I got from Cobra Transmission.

      I'm taking a break to feed before I try to slap the pan back on.

      Steve

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