I urge you, though... Find a MK V GLI, GTI, or R MFSW steering wheel with paddles. It's a pretty easy swap and the MK GTI/GLI steering wheels use the same airbag that you have in your car. That wonderful EA888 engine just begs for a quick downshift into the powerband. You can get that by reaching down to the DSG lever, but not with the immediacy of a paddle. This is perhaps the single best advantage of a DSG over an MT. Do not deny yourself this pleasure over a desire to stay stock.
Think of it not as a mod, but as tying up a loose end VW forgot to tend to. Besides...it is a stock VW part...just for another stock VW.
Last edited by Outrider6; 01-21-2013 at 09:46 PM.
It is a pretty cool tranny, though. I think if the choice back in January had been a 6MT I definitely would have gone for it, too, but it's (DSG) certainly more entertaining than your average VW slushbox.
This is my third project car and I hope it's a charm... I'm inching toward starting on a major element of the project...the electrical installations. My last project was the TDI and the first was a MK II GLI with a full Hella Body Kit that I did, well, when you could still buy a new MK II in the US. Each was a learning experience.
To get a project like like this done with the least amount of frustration, I needed (and need) to do a lot of research. First, I needed to decide what is/was worth doing. (e.g. Under the seat drawers can be pretty useful...or not, depending on what's brought in to the car. Or, do I want fog lights via a relay or via the CECM?) If the project is bumper-to-bumper, that research can be a lot of work.
Next, it's important to sort out what's required for each job as well as how to do each job. (Vortex and other VW sites as well as Google are your friends here.) Then it's time to synthesize and figure out how to do each of these jobs together so you minimize the number of times you pull off panels and connectors.
The MK V JSW really is a different beast than the MK VI JSW if you're focusing on the electronics and on the dash. Most of the electronics info on the JSW forum is MK VI specific, which makes sense because most JSWs are MK VIs. So when it comes to electronics, MK V owners have to pretend that they have a MK V Jetta. Much of the electrical work I'm doing ends up with connections to the CECM, which is completely different than the MK VI CECM, though at least it's in the same place.
The next phase of my work will see front fog lights routed via CECM. This also means wiring up a Euroswitch. If you're wiring a Euroswitch for front fogs, you might as well do the rear fog if you want it. (This means you need two jumper wires from the Euroswitch to the CECM, as well as to research which wires to switch on the CECM for the rear fogs, and what coding you need for VCDS.) For the rear fog, you either need a red bulb for the driver's side back-up light or a Euro Tail light. (And the '09s have a more pinkish tint than the MK VIs, so you have to get that detail right, too, if you decide on a new tail light.)
I want all of the "parlor tricks" that come with a CECM-based fog light install. (e.g. when turn signal goes on, front DRL off, corresponding front fog on) That means I should do a CECM swap at the same time. The MK V CECM is more complicated connection wise than the MK VI CECM. That's a blessing and a curse. The three big gang plugs on the MK VI CECM are easy to take off the CECM, but seem harder to rewire than the dozen or so smaller plugs on the MK V CECM. I'm lucky my son is helping me do this because the connectors have numbers that are very hard to see, especially when you are upside down and using a flashlight. There are about a dozen swaps or new connections to make and few are easy.
I also figured this is a good time to get some related (or at least proximate) things done. With most of the lower front dash pulled off, there's no better time to install a dash cubby. I really got used to dash cubbies in a B5.5 Passat because, among other things, I hate to sit on a wallet. With all that open access under the dash, it's also a good time to do any work that needs to be done on the fusebox or on the stereo system.
I've decided to upgrade from the Premium 7 radio to an RNS-315 as is in the TDI. I'm hoping to activate the -315's built-in BT module and to use a factory microphone in the overhead console, just as is done in the later MK VI JSWs. It should work, but we'll see how easy that will be.
The other -315 related mod I want to do is to install a back-up camera (BUC) into the car. I wouldn't say that's easy in a MK VI JSW, but it's not really complicated, either. You do need to get to both the CECM and to the fusebox when making this installation with the wire set I'm using (the Maloosheck harness). The biggest issue in the MK V is the physical installation of the camera itself. The MK VI hatch handle is interchangeable with that of the Tiguan, which, in some markets, can be had from the factory with an integrated BUC. The MK V JSW handle is physically much smaller than the MK VI JSW/Tiguan handle. Dealing with that is another post.
So what triggered all this work? I'd been planning on doing it for a while, but I was still waiting to tie up some loose ends. When I discovered some water on my driver's side floormat, I suspected the front sunroof drain was the source and I started pulling panels. While I was up there, I thought... Good time to pop in the microphone wiring, since it needs to go down the A-pillar. And while I'm in the A-pillar, it might be a good time to get the BUC cable back to the rear hatch. And while I'm in the hatch, I might as well see if it's easier to get that blasted third eye brake light out from behind. Thus the long slide into project purgatory began...
Last edited by Outrider6; 08-31-2012 at 10:19 PM.
I'm trying for a semi-blackout look on the Storm Trooper, while maintaining the OEM+ theme. I'd already done this on the TDI, which also has a significant amount of black out. I discovered the smoked Hella third eye brake light while I was on the ECS web site. The ad indicated that the light would fit the JSW. I thought "gotta have that." "OEM did the blackout for me... What could be easier?" Turns out, plenty, though the only real problem here is that the factory light (as well as the new replacement) is just plain hard to pry out. Otherwise, it's just a plug & play replacement.
The light is a simple press fit into the spoiler. The spoiler is a pressed in part of the hatch's sheet metal, so it's tough. The upper part of the light has four strong, fixed plastic wedges. How strong? See the photos with bent sheet metal witness marks that came from removing the TDI's stock third eye.
The TDI light came out with plastic pry tools only--one of which snapped. It's a tight fit and the light is well sealed from the elements. There's only a single electrical connection and the lighting is via LED as far as I can tell.
I like the appearance of the new light on the TDI, but I wasn't looking forward to another install. I hoped it would be easier if we could get at the spring metal clips that are on the bottom of the light. We tried this from inside the hatch, too, as there are access holes which are roughly in line with the clips. (You have to remove all of the interior trim on the hatch to get to this part, something we had already done so we could route the BUC wiring harness.)
Bottom line on this install is that it took four screw drivers, three people and three plastic trim tools (spudgers) to get the light out. Hence my declaration that this job is a PITA...but still probably worth it when you're done.
If there's a next time, one thing I would do differently is to spray some silicon lube in the exterior seam between the light and the hatch before trying to remove anything. That might make it easier to pop out the light. (It could just make the spudgers slip off so much the easier, too.) Also, when I installed the new light, I did put some silicon dialectric grease on the seal and on the metal tabs. That should keep the rubber seal fresh, may help prevent corrosion on the metal tabs (TDI's were fine, ST's were corroded), and may make it easier to pop out the light.
Last edited by Outrider6; 09-02-2012 at 01:28 PM. Reason: Clarity
One of my problems in working projects is that they just seem to take so long, which frustrates me. I was tired of seeing this:
So I decided to hook up my RNS-315 to see if it would magically work...
It did work...in a limited, but still useful, fashion. The AM & FM radios work. The iPod I had sitting in the arm rest works like a six CD changer, not like the way an iPod works using the MFI in a MKVI. NAV seems to work because it quickly and accurately found my location. I didn't drive the car anywhere, so that's not so much of a test.
So what won't it do? It won't talk to VCDS. I did go into the CAN Bus module and I turned off position sensing while turning on Nav. I really need to access the -315 via the CAN Bus. That's the only way to turn on the BT module for the phone and to turn on the BUC input. I'm beginning to wonder if I need a new CAN Bus module... Time to try Ross-Tech for some support.
Last edited by Outrider6; 12-25-2012 at 07:42 PM.
If you're in a rush to do a project like this, you could end up getting frustrated long before you get productive. To get a wiring project right, you need plenty of information that can be hard to get, even with good resources like a Bentley manual and VCDS. There's a lot of good info out on JSWs with MK VI electronics in this forum, but for the MK V JSW, things are a bit different. Fortunately, it's very much like an '09 Jetta at the same trim level...so an SEL (2.0t) JSW is much like an '09 GLI.
One thing I wanted to do was to set up a rear fog light. Much of the info I found on the JSW forum was for MK VI JSWs. MK V or MK VI, setting up a rear fog light involves moving the wire for the driver's side fog light to another position on the CECM and recoding. For the MK V JSW, C12 goes to B4 and then you recode. The driver side back-up light needs to be changed to a red light bulb, too--unless you buy the (correct) Eurotail light.
So after some research, I got started to doing the swap, but I realized that I was supposed to tap C12 for a signal to the back-up camera. I guessed that C12 would go dead when the CECM got recoded. So I had to consult an expert (Maloosheck) to see what I should tap. &
Turns out that B1 is the passenger side back-up light, so that's where the BUC harness gets hooked up. If you're going to set up a fog, I'd suggest tapping the passenger side back-up in all cases, since it would make rear fog activation so much the simpler to do.
The BUC also needs a constant (but fused) power source from the battery. The MK VI uses position 17, but that's filled on my MK V JSW. Position 16 is open and works fine, though.
These points are relatively easy. I'm now stuck trying to sort out CAN-bus controllers because VCDS can't see the RNS-315. I'm coming to the realization that I'm likely to have to buy a new controller.
That saga is playing out on the VDCS tech support forum here: http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...s-and-Retrofit
Last edited by Outrider6; 12-10-2012 at 10:16 PM.
Last edited by Outrider6; 10-09-2012 at 11:56 PM.
The TB front end went on to get the car roadworthy for a trip to Lindsay VW. My younger son really wanted the car ready to go to H2O, but I wasn't willing to do a long road trip with loads of loose wires hanging out near the pedals. But the car did get to the dealer. Got great service from both the service advisor (Julia) and the tech (Danny).
After the CAN Bus controller upgrade, the NAV controller became accessible, but it took a while to get BT activated. The relevant choice is in byte 4. The checkbox says "make Bluetooth inactive." My -315 was a pull from a car that must have had a standalone BT module. If you want to use the RNS-315's international BT module, the checkbox should be unchecked and saved.
Once BT is activated, there should be a BT menu accessible from the -315. IIRC, I didn't get the menu until the -315 was restarted, but I could be wrong. In any event, I did manage to pair my phone and to both make a call and to stream music. I haven't verified microphone operation yet because the crimps failed on both wires at the head unit end of the cable. But once I get that straightened out, I suspect I'll have the hands free set-up I'm looking for.
One thing that's not yet working is the NAV to MFD linkage. After fiddling with every byte on the CECM, I had one of those duh/aha moments. I'm still using a midline CECM, and I may not see anything new on the MFD until I plug in and program a high line CECM.
I did swap out the wires to activate the rear fog light and put one of the three BUC wires into the CECM harness. I still need to get the hot wire into the fusebox and the ground set in a good place. One benefit of the MK V's more numerous CECM plugs is that they are far easier to work with than the gang plugs on a MK VI.
Next up for work is wiring up the foglights. Normally this would have been done before the TB front end was fitted. Did I mention my son was in a rush?
Front end comes off and the battery out so I can get a straight shot into the firewall gasket. After all this trouble, the fogs are going into the CECM. I like the extra functionality that comes from the CECM, too.
I also have to think about wheels. I'm on the fence between 17 in Anthracite Goals and 18 inch Silver Goals. 18s fill the wheel well better and have more grip, but they cost more and I like the Anthracite color better.
Work will be slower than I like on this as I've got a lot of Sports Parent duties for much of the Fall. I'm also awaiting parts on the microphone connectors. I'm not buttoning up the NAV until that's sorted out. The MK V radio is a PITA to remove, so I'm not going to close it up until I know it's working.
Last edited by Outrider6; 10-15-2012 at 07:36 AM.
You could always powder coat the 18" versions. That is the route I may end up going since I love the look of the Anthracite Goals.
Malone Stage 2/Rawtek Downpipe&Midpipe/Banks 3" exhaust/S3 Intercooler/H&R Rear Swaybar/Neuspeed endlinks/Golf R steering wheel/GTD shifter/GTD E-Brake/GTD grille/Smoked Side markers/Stainless steel ECS brake lines/Tyrolsport Caliper stiffening kit/Highline CECM/OEM Xenon Lights/OEM Fog Lights/VMR708 wheels/KW V3 Coilovers
RNS-315 swap is pretty much done. I was stuck on the microphone. Both wires had pulled free from their crimp on connectors. This photo shows the wiring (pre-failure here, but the impending doom should be obvious):
I don't have voice dialing from the built in BT module, but I do have a working hands-free phone set-up with a VW microphone mounted in the OEM position. And it streams music...
At the moment, I don't have any obvious exchange of information between the NAV unit and the MFD. And none of the MFSW's phone or audio controls have any effect on the -315.
My next step is to swap out the CECM to a high-line unit. Maybe that will help...
Last edited by Outrider6; 10-12-2012 at 12:25 PM.
Took forever to hook up the camera's three electrical connections under the dash.
Brown ground went nicely under the steering column
Maloosheck's reverse tap was really easy to install.
The red power lead connection was a PITA to insert due to the safety lock on the back of the interior fuse box. The best open position was #16.
I found it helpful to unscrew the fuse panel from the chassis so I could get better access to the safety lock.
You have to pull all of the fuses out of the panel in order to get the pink/purple frame to slide down, which makes it possible to insert the power lead.
Take a photo of the installed fuses before you pull them. Makes it a lot easier to put them in the right spot later on.
The frame won't slide down until the safety catch (black tab on magenta hook on left side, top) is released.
Don't forget to push the pink/purple frame back up into the safe position after you're done.
A word to the wise, though... Gently tug on the power lead to ensure it's seated before you reset the safey catch.
Last edited by Outrider6; 12-10-2012 at 10:19 PM.
I verified that the BUC (camera) was working today. It's not integrated into the latch like the "MK VI" install, since the MK V JSW hatch handle is much, much smaller. This camera has a lens cover (which was on). Next step will be some metal work on the hatch.
I also buttoned the fuse panel back together and screwed it back in place.
Would love to do more, but it's getting dark very early now.
I'm beginning to get concerned about my CAN bus controller. Some MK Vs and B6 Passats have started draining their batteries after an RNS-315 install. The problem was traced to the CANbus controller, which seemed to be drawing current even when the RNS-315 was off. The fix was a new CAN bus controller.
I run the car for 5-10 minutes every day, but it's been showing signs of low voltage... It's getting cold and I assume the battery is original, so I don't feel there's a clear answer yet.
Last edited by Outrider6; 12-12-2012 at 07:28 AM.
I swapped out the CAN BUS controller, which is a major PITA due to its location up above the gas pedal.
My son helped me wire the front fogs. Since I was going in through the firewall and wanted to follow factory wiring conduits, the battery had to come off, as well as the intake. While these were off, my son nabbed the euro short shift kit I got from ECS, which is easy to install with the battery and air box out. We had a few challenges when it started raining at the end of the job.
Next up is the inside wiring of the fog lights and lower dash reassembly. Nothing hard here, but finding the combination of available time, daylight, and good weather could be a real challenge.
After that, I have a little work to do on the rear hatch.
The more JSWs with rear view cameras, the better!
OEM+ Bi-Xenon HIDs | Front & Rear Fogs | Highline CECM | Euroswitch | RNS-510 HW:08 SW:1140 w/ Software VIM | Backup Camera | 9W7 | Dash Cubby | Aspherical Mirrors | GTI Steering Wheel w/ .:R Badge | GTI 6MT Shift Knob | GTI E-Brake Boot | GTI Pedals | GTI 18" Detroits
Not so OEM+ Koni Coilovers | Gentex Homelink Mirror | Yaesu FTM-350AR
Front fogs went into the CECM plugs this evening. Way easier to work with than the MK VI gang plugs. Took forever to get the CECM back in place, mostly because I'd forgotten how the CECM was originally installed. I suppose that's a hazard you get from leaving it hanging down for a month or so. Since everything is now working, my son and I reassembled the lower dash and installed the (new) dash cubby upgrade. I played around with the CECM using VCDS and turned off enough cold bulb monitoring that my Ed lights now seem not to be throwing any codes.
Last edited by Outrider6; 12-06-2012 at 12:05 AM.
I was out buttoning up the rear hatch and later decided to start the car. It wouldn't turn over due to low voltage. Now I need to sort out whether it's a battery problem or a CAN bus controller problem. The battery gets back up to speed pretty quick, even with a trickle charger.
I'm really getting close on this one, but I keep getting nuisance issues. The front DC power receptacle isn't working, but the back one is, so I don't think it's a fuse.
GLI wheel and the interior closed back up:
What's that above the plate and between the light fixture and the hatch release?
New to me tail lights courtesy of 4ceFed4. (Thanks, Jeff!) As to blacking things out, I haven't been super consistent on this car. Somethings I black out, somethings I white out.
Last edited by Outrider6; 12-14-2012 at 10:52 PM.