Project Storm Trooper

[Outrider6]

One of my problems in working projects is that they just seem to take so long, which frustrates me. I was tired of seeing this:



So I decided to hook up my RNS-315 to see if it would magically work...



It did work...in a limited, but still useful, fashion. The AM & FM radios work. The iPod I had sitting in the arm rest works like a six CD changer, not like the way an iPod works using the MFI in a MKVI. NAV seems to work because it quickly and accurately found my location. I didn't drive the car anywhere, so that's not so much of a test.

So what won't it do? It won't talk to VCDS. I did go into the CAN Bus module and I turned off position sensing while turning on Nav. I really need to access the -315 via the CAN Bus. That's the only way to turn on the BT module for the phone and to turn on the BUC input. I'm beginning to wonder if I need a new CAN Bus module... Time to try Ross-Tech for some support.

[Outrider6]

If you're in a rush to do a project like this, you could end up getting frustrated long before you get productive. To get a wiring project right, you need plenty of information that can be hard to get, even with good resources like a Bentley manual and VCDS. There's a lot of good info out on JSWs with MK VI electronics in this forum, but for the MK V JSW, things are a bit different. Fortunately, it's very much like an '09 Jetta at the same trim level...so an SEL (2.0t) JSW is much like an '09 GLI.

One thing I wanted to do was to set up a rear fog light. Much of the info I found on the JSW forum was for MK VI JSWs. MK V or MK VI, setting up a rear fog light involves moving the wire for the driver's side fog light to another position on the CECM and recoding. For the MK V JSW, C12 goes to B4 and then you recode. The driver side back-up light needs to be changed to a red light bulb, too--unless you buy the (correct) Eurotail light.

So after some research, I got started to doing the swap, but I realized that I was supposed to tap C12 for a signal to the back-up camera. I guessed that C12 would go dead when the CECM got recoded. So I had to consult an expert (Maloosheck) to see what I should tap. &

Turns out that B1 is the passenger side back-up light, so that's where the BUC harness gets hooked up. If you're going to set up a fog, I'd suggest tapping the passenger side back-up in all cases, since it would make rear fog activation so much the simpler to do.

The BUC also needs a constant (but fused) power source from the battery. The MK VI uses position 17, but that's filled on my MK V JSW. Position 16 is open and works fine, though.

These points are relatively easy. I'm now stuck trying to sort out CAN-bus controllers because VCDS can't see the RNS-315. I'm coming to the realization that I'm likely to have to buy a new controller.

That saga is playing out on the VDCS tech support forum here: http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...s-and-Retrofit

[Outrider6]

My younger son has really wanted to get the JSW looking a little more aggressive. A few days ago, I came home and I found the front end of the car on the porch.

This morning, we finished a test fit of the new front end:

[Steelman's TSI]

Lovin' that Tbunny front Any idea where to get the fog grilles for the tbunny bumper? I've never seen those before.

Nice build as well.

[Outrider6]

Lovin' that Tbunny front Any idea where to get the fog grilles for the tbunny bumper? I've never seen those before.

Nice build as well.

You can order the foglight buckets and grilles as service packs. My TB kit was for a foglight version. Hard to see due to the cel phone photo, but they are installed, though not yet wired up.

Part Number for the foglight bucket set is: 1KM071926 DSP

[Outrider6]

The TB front end went on to get the car roadworthy for a trip to Lindsay VW. My younger son really wanted the car ready to go to H2O, but I wasn't willing to do a long road trip with loads of loose wires hanging out near the pedals. But the car did get to the dealer. Got great service from both the service advisor (Julia) and the tech (Danny).

After the CAN Bus controller upgrade, the NAV controller became accessible, but it took a while to get BT activated. The relevant choice is in byte 4. The checkbox says "make Bluetooth inactive." My -315 was a pull from a car that must have had a standalone BT module. If you want to use the RNS-315's international BT module, the checkbox should be unchecked and saved.

Once BT is activated, there should be a BT menu accessible from the -315. IIRC, I didn't get the menu until the -315 was restarted, but I could be wrong. In any event, I did manage to pair my phone and to both make a call and to stream music. I haven't verified microphone operation yet because the crimps failed on both wires at the head unit end of the cable. But once I get that straightened out, I suspect I'll have the hands free set-up I'm looking for.

One thing that's not yet working is the NAV to MFD linkage. After fiddling with every byte on the CECM, I had one of those duh/aha moments. I'm still using a midline CECM, and I may not see anything new on the MFD until I plug in and program a high line CECM.

I did swap out the wires to activate the rear fog light and put one of the three BUC wires into the CECM harness. I still need to get the hot wire into the fusebox and the ground set in a good place. One benefit of the MK V's more numerous CECM plugs is that they are far easier to work with than the gang plugs on a MK VI.

Next up for work is wiring up the foglights. Normally this would have been done before the TB front end was fitted. Did I mention my son was in a rush?

Front end comes off and the battery out so I can get a straight shot into the firewall gasket. After all this trouble, the fogs are going into the CECM. I like the extra functionality that comes from the CECM, too.

I also have to think about wheels. I'm on the fence between 17 in Anthracite Goals and 18 inch Silver Goals. 18s fill the wheel well better and have more grip, but they cost more and I like the Anthracite color better.

Work will be slower than I like on this as I've got a lot of Sports Parent duties for much of the Fall. I'm also awaiting parts on the microphone connectors. I'm not buttoning up the NAV until that's sorted out. The MK V radio is a PITA to remove, so I'm not going to close it up until I know it's working.

[Jeffbucc]

You could always powder coat the 18" versions. That is the route I may end up going since I love the look of the Anthracite Goals.

[Outrider6]

RNS-315 swap is pretty much done. I was stuck on the microphone. Both wires had pulled free from their crimp on connectors. This photo shows the wiring (pre-failure here, but the impending doom should be obvious):



I don't have voice dialing from the built in BT module, but I do have a working hands-free phone set-up with a VW microphone mounted in the OEM position. And it streams music...

At the moment, I don't have any obvious exchange of information between the NAV unit and the MFD. And none of the MFSW's phone or audio controls have any effect on the -315.

My next step is to swap out the CECM to a high-line unit. Maybe that will help...

[Outrider6]

Took forever to hook up the camera's three electrical connections under the dash.

Brown ground went nicely under the steering column

Maloosheck's reverse tap was really easy to install.

The red power lead connection was a PITA to insert due to the safety lock on the back of the interior fuse box. The best open position was #16.

I found it helpful to unscrew the fuse panel from the chassis so I could get better access to the safety lock.

You have to pull all of the fuses out of the panel in order to get the pink/purple frame to slide down, which makes it possible to insert the power lead.

Take a photo of the installed fuses before you pull them. Makes it a lot easier to put them in the right spot later on.

The frame won't slide down until the safety catch (black tab on magenta hook on left side, top) is released.



Don't forget to push the pink/purple frame back up into the safe position after you're done.

A word to the wise, though... Gently tug on the power lead to ensure it's seated before you reset the safey catch.

[Outrider6]

I verified that the BUC (camera) was working today. It's not integrated into the latch like the "MK VI" install, since the MK V JSW hatch handle is much, much smaller. This camera has a lens cover (which was on). Next step will be some metal work on the hatch.

I also buttoned the fuse panel back together and screwed it back in place.

Would love to do more, but it's getting dark very early now.

I'm beginning to get concerned about my CAN bus controller. Some MK Vs and B6 Passats have started draining their batteries after an RNS-315 install. The problem was traced to the CANbus controller, which seemed to be drawing current even when the RNS-315 was off. The fix was a new CAN bus controller.

I run the car for 5-10 minutes every day, but it's been showing signs of low voltage... It's getting cold and I assume the battery is original, so I don't feel there's a clear answer yet.

[Outrider6]

I swapped out the CAN BUS controller, which is a major PITA due to its location up above the gas pedal.

My son helped me wire the front fogs. Since I was going in through the firewall and wanted to follow factory wiring conduits, the battery had to come off, as well as the intake. While these were off, my son nabbed the euro short shift kit I got from ECS, which is easy to install with the battery and air box out. We had a few challenges when it started raining at the end of the job.

Next up is the inside wiring of the fog lights and lower dash reassembly. Nothing hard here, but finding the combination of available time, daylight, and good weather could be a real challenge.

After that, I have a little work to do on the rear hatch.

[Code3VW]

Great progress!

The more JSWs with rear view cameras, the better!

[Outrider6]

Front fogs went into the CECM plugs this evening. Way easier to work with than the MK VI gang plugs. Took forever to get the CECM back in place, mostly because I'd forgotten how the CECM was originally installed. I suppose that's a hazard you get from leaving it hanging down for a month or so. Since everything is now working, my son and I reassembled the lower dash and installed the (new) dash cubby upgrade. I played around with the CECM using VCDS and turned off enough cold bulb monitoring that my Ed lights now seem not to be throwing any codes.

[Outrider6]

I was out buttoning up the rear hatch and later decided to start the car. It wouldn't turn over due to low voltage. Now I need to sort out whether it's a battery problem or a CAN bus controller problem. The battery gets back up to speed pretty quick, even with a trickle charger.

I'm really getting close on this one, but I keep getting nuisance issues. The front DC power receptacle isn't working, but the back one is, so I don't think it's a fuse.

[Outrider6]

GLI wheel and the interior closed back up:



What's that above the plate and between the light fixture and the hatch release?



New to me tail lights courtesy of 4ceFed4. (Thanks, Jeff!) As to blacking things out, I haven't been super consistent on this car. Somethings I black out, somethings I white out.

[nikhsub1]

The wagon is looking BOSS

[Outrider6]

I buttoned up the interior panels on the rear hatch this afternoon. I thought I'd take the car for a spin, but it wouldn't turn over. The battery had been on a trickle charge overnight. I looked in the battery peephole and it's yellow, which means "time for a change."

This raises the question... Are VW replacement batteries worth the extra expense?

[Outrider6]

Yesterday I picked up a new VW battery and today I returned the core. Car starts fine now and I was happy to take it out for a spin.

While I was returning the battery core to the dealer, I made an offer on a set of 18 inch Goals with some Goodyear tires. These have been sitting on the Parts Department showroom floor for at least a year. (As far as I can remember they've been on the floor since I first walked into the store in AUG '11. The tires were June 2010 manufacture... so not used, but at 2.5 years old...not new, either.) They were asking $1645--no markdowns, so the manager wasn't excited when I offered $1000 for them. But these didn't have TPMS, so that further lowers their value to me. (I have to buy the sensors and to mount/dismount the tires and to rebalance them...easily a $200 expense.) I sensed the manager felt insulted and hence was dismissive of me and didn't bother countering. I'd say the set is probably worth somewhere between $1100 and $1300 ($800 for the rims with the balance for the rubber.) I'd be happy to work with him if he would work with me.

Not to pick on them too much, but this particular dealer is really tight on discounts for walk in customers and they don't keep much in stock. If they want to win my business, they have to offer something more than just "close." (UPS and FEDEX makes the competition "close," too.) Based on this interaction, I won't feel bad about picking up a set of Goals (with fresh rubber) from a site sponsor like Douglas or Keffer later on.

Before I start swapping wheels, though, I need to tend to something more mundane. The console power outlet (the socket formerly known for housing cigarette lighters) is not charging my phone. From what I can tell, it's tied to fuse 42. The fuse is good and the trunk power outlet (supposed to be on the same circuit) works just fine. Time to dig in to the console.

I also need to adjust the shift cables as it's now hard to get the car into first gear. It shifted fine before we got a short shift kit. (My son did most of the work himself, but he didn't reset the cable tension carefully because it started raining on us.) We picked the VW OEM short shifter, but I'm wishing I'd gone for the Diesel Geek unit. Maybe I'll feel differently after I adjust the cables...the DG unit is a work of art, but it would be nice if the $50 OEM unit that's already in the car would end up being good enough.

[Outrider6]

...The console power outlet (the socket formerly known for housing cigarette lighters) is not charging my phone. From what I can tell, it's tied to fuse 42. The fuse is good and the trunk power outlet (supposed to be on the same circuit) works just fine. Time to dig in to the console.

Turns out that the receptacle had something like gum smeared all over the inside. Pulled that part of the console and cleaned out the power receptacle. Took about an hour. Works OK now.

I also need to adjust the shift cables as it's now hard to get the car into first gear...

Turns out that the short shift kit from ECS (an OEM TT part) only effects half of the shifting as it only replaces one of the shift mechanisms. There are other relevant parts, too. Had a nice discussion with Benji from NGP about the other factors. I ended up leaving NGP with a 42DD bushing kit for the shift cable ends and a Forge Motor Sports Side Quick Shift kit. More work...more money...more time... Hope I end up with a shifting experience that's worth the time, money, & effort.

[Outrider6]

One thing that VW really got wrong on the JSW is the (over) use of chrome trim. My son and I finished up taping over the trim yesterday...



Ironic that you have to go through all this effort just to get the trim on a top-of-the-line model to look like the trim on a base car...

[NoVaSpeed]

Your wagon looks great and I love the improvements! Living my dream. Can't find the time to even wash my JSW with two (very) little ones around. . . . .

[Jeffbucc]

Jeez here it is! Your red 2.5s was really confusing me for a while...

[Outrider6]

I finally got the chance to fit mudflaps to my car with my son's help. It was really nice to do this job on a lift. The 18 inch Goals are working out well. The stock Avignons were fine, but these are better.



There are two minor obstacles to getting the mud flaps on. One is a pop rivet on the rear fender, driver's side. The other is the clamp that goes on the bottom of the front mudguards.

[Outrider6]

Your wagon looks great and I love the improvements! Living my dream. Can't find the time to even wash my JSW with two (very) little ones around. . . . .

Thanks for the kind words. This project has taken forever and I haven't been able to actually drive the car as much as I would like. I have been lucky that my boys are older and have been helpful in working on the car. But they've also taken to driving it. Sounds like you've got a while before sharing the car is much of a concern.

My car is staying very clean, but isn't picking up lots of miles. I don't want to commute in it, as I think that's something of a waste for this rare care. (IIRC, you gave up your DC commute in your SEL, too.) I'm hopeful that I can keep it nice and still get a decent amount of time behind the wheel. Sounds like you are at least giving your car enough exercise, even if you're not always able to get around to washing it up. It's probably better to drive a dirty car than to park a clean one.

Jeez here it is! Your red 2.5s was really confusing me for a while...

The S is the daily driver. Won't ever be as fast nor as nice as the SEL...but it's a decent substitute. It's also a very reliable engine and a great chassis. I won't be able to resist the urge to tinker, but the built in limitations of the power plant should keep things rational.

[NoVaSpeed]

IIRC, you gave up your DC commute in your SEL, too.

I take the Metro into DC every day but the wife takes the JSW to her job (it's our only vehicle besides two bikes and three stroller/joggers). Luckily, her job very close (no beltway travel needed). We've got just over 55K on the JSW and it is still running great. Only major problem was the intake manifold replacement (under warranty--phew). Also had a leaky sunroof drain and faulty rear door latch fixed (again, under warranty).

I'm sure as the kids get older we'll need two cars to cover all the logistics. Maybe there's an Allroad in the future since VW doesn't make wagons with the SEL features/engine. Of course I would keep the JSW (with the 6-speed) and the wife would have to suffer with the Audi.