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    Thread: Autotech HPFP Upgrade full DIY guide with pics

    1. Member
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      08-28-2012 02:30 AM #1
      Suitable Vehicles:

      All cars with the EA113 2.0L TFSI engine such as
      - VW Mk5 Golf GTi (incl Pirelli)
      - VW MK5 Jetta TFSI
      - VW Mk6 Golf R
      - Audi A3 8P
      - Audi S3 8P
      - Skoda Octavia vRS 2.0TFSI
      - etc etc

      NOTE: This DIY will also partly applys to HPFP Upgrade / APR HPFP / KMD etc pumps.


      1) Turn engine off (obviously)
      2) Allow engine to cool for a period of time so you can comfortably touch the HPFP without burning yourself.
      3) Either remove the fuse for the HPFP or tape the driver’s side door up to prevent it from being opened (opening the door will prime the fuel pump and spray fuel all over you = not good)
      4) Remove black screw cap from right side front of the HPFP.



      5) With the black plastic cap removed, stick a screwdriver gently into this valve to relieve the fuel pressure and allow excess fuel to drain out. (the pressure relief valve is like the valve you find on a car or bike tyre). Having a clean rag handy to wipe up the fuel is a good idea.

      6) Once the fuel pressure is relieved, remove the valve altogether from the HPFP body with a 13mm spanner.



      7) Using a 17mm spanner, crack and undo the silver high pressure fuel line leading into the bottom of the HPFP. Undo the nut completely and slide it back out of the way.



      8) Unclip the black switch from the top of the HPFP and the cream coloured one from the side of it and move the connectors out of the way.



      9) Now you will have access to the 3x T30 bolts which hold the HPFP into the engine. Loosen these and remove them.



      10) You will now have to remove the rubber fuel line leading into the bottom of the HPFP. In my case, I found it easier to undo the rubber line where it joined into the silver fuel lines back near the inlet manifold (rubber hose is only 10-15cm long) rather than directly at the HPFP as there isn’t much room.



      11) Once the rubber hose is free, you should be able to slide the HPFP assembly out and away from the engine.



      12) With the pump removed, you will have access to pull out the cam follower and inspect the level if wear on it. In my cars case, the 10,000km (approx 6,000miles) its travelled has not created any wear to worry about on the cam follower. I will check it again every 6 months.



      13) At this stage, I would suggest taking a photo of the stock HPFP to refer to at the end of the rebuild.

      14) Take the HPFP over to a vice and secure it with the spring and piston facing up towards you (I put a clean rag around the pump to prevent scratching it with the vice). Pull directly upwards on the spring and piston and it will pop off. Place these safely on a clean workspace area.



      15) With the spring and piston removed, you have access to the 18mm nut which needs to be removed. You can do this with a standard 18mm socket now, but you will need a long 18mm socket to put it back on later.



      16) With the 18mm nut removed, you can now remove the stainless steel seal holder and cylinder. Place the cylinder with the spring and piston you removed earlier.



      17) You should now have the following items removed from the HPFP. The only parts we are going to re-use are the stainless steel seal holder and the spring.



      18) Now, working in a clean environment, get the new Autotech components (piston, cylinder, spring retainer and guides) out of their packaging.



      19) Ensure the Autotech piston (notice the thickness difference from the OEM piston) is clean and free of contaminents by dipping it in petrol before inserting it into the stainless seal holder. Insert it from below (the threaded end of the stainless steel seal holder) as shown by the arrows in the pic below.



      20) Next, place the cylinder over the piston from the bottom of the threaded stainless steel seal holder. if you look closely at the new cylinder, you will see that one end is a larger diameter than the other. Ensure the end with the larger diameter goes into the stainless steel seal holder. (this is also easy to identify as the larger diameter end also has some holes drilled into the cylinder.)



      21) We will now put these parts back into the HPFP body. Lubricate the rubber seal on the stainless steel seal holder with some clean engine oil. Just use your finger to rub the oil onto the seal. Insert the parts back into the HPFP body.



      22) Clean the 18mm nut you removed earlier and also clean the 18mm long socket you are about to use to tighten the nut up (this is to ensure no pieces of dirt fall into the HPFP during re-assembly). Tighten the 18mm nut up



      23) Now clean the spring you removed earlier by dipping it in petrol. Lift the piston up as far as you can out of the HPFP body. Click the spring back in place over the top of the piston.



      24) Now fit the titanium spring retainer over the top of the spring. Push down on the retainer/spring slightly (a few mm) and insert the 2x black retainer keepers. Make sure these are placed evenly and are flush with the top of the retainer.






      25) Have a quick overall inspection of the rebuilt HPFP and make sure it looks as per the photo you took prior to dis-assembly. Double check the 18mm nut is tight and then it’s time to re-fit the HPFP to the engine following the first few steps in reverse. Make sure to prime the HPFP once or twice before cranking the engine to remove any air in the lines – you do this by opening the car door (you will hear the HPFP prime for a few seconds).
      Last edited by Lucas_R; 03-17-2014 at 06:59 PM.

    2. Member sc0ttyb's Avatar
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      08-28-2012 02:46 AM #2
      Wow, you made that look super easy. I was apprehensive about upgrading the internals myself, but with this DIY I'm pretty positive I can do it.

      Awesome write-up. Thanks for doing it!

      (sent via mobile)
      2013 IW TTRS | 1990 TR Cabby Best Seller | 2012 CSG Golf R (sold) | 2008 TR R32 (sold) | 2006 UG GTI (sold)

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      08-28-2012 02:51 AM #3
      Thanks - i was also a little apprehensive about taking the HPFP apart, and the fact that i couldn't find a DIY anywhere is why i decided to make one. The Autotech instructions are pretty rubbish too.

      If you follow this guide you will be ok.

      Quote Originally Posted by sc0ttyb View Post
      Wow, you made that look super easy. I was apprehensive about upgrading the internals myself, but with this DIY I'm pretty positive I can do it.

      Awesome write-up. Thanks for doing it!

      (sent via mobile)

    4. Member sc0ttyb's Avatar
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      08-28-2012 02:56 AM #4
      Do you happen to know the torque spec of that 18mm nut? I just don't want to go nuts on it and damage anything.

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    5. Member velocity196's Avatar
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      08-28-2012 06:00 AM #5
      great thread thank you
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    6. Member 6speedvr6's Avatar
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      08-28-2012 06:31 AM #6
      It's a pretty simple process if you follow the steps as Lucas said the Autotech instructions are a bit misleading cleanliness is the key and make sure you have a vice or something to clamp the pump once it's removed to loosen the 18mm retainer. Nice clean step by step Lucas
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      08-28-2012 08:13 AM #7
      Quote Originally Posted by sc0ttyb View Post
      Do you happen to know the torque spec of that 18mm nut? I just don't want to go nuts on it and damage anything.
      There is no mention anywhere of the torque specs for this nut. Just do it up nice and tight.

      Quote Originally Posted by velocity196 View Post
      great thread thank you
      Quote Originally Posted by 6speedvr6 View Post
      It's a pretty simple process if you follow the steps as Lucas said the Autotech instructions are a bit misleading cleanliness is the key and make sure you have a vice or something to clamp the pump once it's removed to loosen the 18mm retainer. Nice clean step by step Lucas
      Cheers guys. Hopefully it will help others looking to install one of these.

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      08-28-2012 10:34 AM #8
      I appreciate this a lot i was gonna fork over the money for the apr but this looks simple enough

    9. Member Angina's Avatar
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      08-28-2012 11:24 AM #9
      gonna use this guide to check my cam follower soon!!!!!

      thanks!

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      08-28-2012 01:37 PM #10
      "opening the door will prime the fuel pump"

      Ah, I was wondering what that sound was..

    11. 08-28-2012 01:52 PM #11
      Dude great job on the write up !!! I've had me HPfP for a few weeks wondering if I can do this myself after looking at Autotechs directions where like reading a mistle manual. Lol. Now I'll def be doing this this week now!!!
      2013 CW 4D Golf .:R / UnitedMotorsport stage 2/ APR RSC TB Exhaust / Forge TwinTake / NSP Golf .:R boost guage / Autotech HPFP........

    12. Member VWPDX's Avatar
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      08-28-2012 06:46 PM #12


      Great write up!

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      08-28-2012 08:55 PM #13
      Awesome! Thanks for the write up. Some noob questions following (don't worry, I'm not as dumb as it may sound, just don't want to f- this up):

      So after doing this I assume it is no issue to drive without the stage 1+ tune?

      Is it as simple as just doing this install and then getting the stage 1+ flash?

      Is there any downside to this opposed to shipping it to APR or is this the same thing they do?

      Why do some call it high pressure vs high volume? Just because it's the same thing (being able to run a higher pressure allows higher volume..?)

      Thanks again, saved me a few hundred bucks and some down time!

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      08-28-2012 10:05 PM #14
      Quote Originally Posted by mk2gti2 View Post
      I appreciate this a lot i was gonna fork over the money for the apr but this looks simple enough
      Yep it's easy to do if you have some basic tools and some mechanical know how.

      Quote Originally Posted by Angina View Post
      gonna use this guide to check my cam follower soon!!!!!

      thanks!

      My cam follower at 10,000km (6,000 miles) was still like brand new.

      Quote Originally Posted by Saracen View Post
      "opening the door will prime the fuel pump"

      Ah, I was wondering what that sound was..
      Yes sir-ee thats what it is.

      Quote Originally Posted by VR420man View Post
      Dude great job on the write up !!! I've had me HPfP for a few weeks wondering if I can do this myself after looking at Autotechs directions where like reading a mistle manual. Lol. Now I'll def be doing this this week now!!!
      Quote Originally Posted by VWPDX View Post


      Great write up!


      Quote Originally Posted by nchiarel View Post
      Awesome! Thanks for the write up. Some noob questions following (don't worry, I'm not as dumb as it may sound, just don't want to f- this up):

      So after doing this I assume it is no issue to drive without the stage 1+ tune?

      Is it as simple as just doing this install and then getting the stage 1+ flash?

      Is there any downside to this opposed to shipping it to APR or is this the same thing they do?

      Why do some call it high pressure vs high volume? Just because it's the same thing (being able to run a higher pressure allows higher volume..?)

      Thanks again, saved me a few hundred bucks and some down time!
      You can drive the car just fine with the upgraded HPFP even if you have the stock tune. The car will only use as much fuel as it needs. Then you can drive to your tuner and get a 1+ or 2+ flash.

      This is the same thing APR will do if you send them your pump for a rebuild. They will use APR parts instead of Autotech though.

      Hi volume / Hi pressure.....same same. The pump itself is a high pressure fuel pump (HPFP), but the pump upgrade makes it a higher volume pump too.

    15. Junior Member dsrtfox's Avatar
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      09-11-2012 07:24 PM #15
      just some quick newbie questions:
      1. when you say spanner, you mean spanner wrench, can i just use a box wrench? or is that not feasible in that tight of an area?
      2. when you say to clean the 18mm nut and socket, is this just a dip in gas like the other pieces or should it be wiped down (i feel like that might leave unwanted lint or something)?

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      09-11-2012 08:23 PM #16
      Quote Originally Posted by dsrtfox View Post
      just some quick newbie questions:
      1. when you say spanner, you mean spanner wrench, can i just use a box wrench? or is that not feasible in that tight of an area?
      2. when you say to clean the 18mm nut and socket, is this just a dip in gas like the other pieces or should it be wiped down (i feel like that might leave unwanted lint or something)?
      When i said spanner, i mean one of these: http://www.naed.com.au/combination-r...ner-p-188.html

      Not sure if you guys call it something different in the USA.

      Just dip the 18mm nut and socket in clean petrol (gas), let them drip dry for a minute, and then install. No need to wipe them down. Its just to remove any dirt/dust etc that may be on the parts before installing them.

    17. Member sc0ttyb's Avatar
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      09-11-2012 08:39 PM #17
      Quote Originally Posted by Lucas_R View Post
      When i said spanner, i mean one of these: http://www.naed.com.au/combination-r...ner-p-188.html

      Not sure if you guys call it something different in the USA.

      Just dip the 18mm nut and socket in clean petrol (gas), let them drip dry for a minute, and then install. No need to wipe them down. Its just to remove any dirt/dust etc that may be on the parts before installing them.
      That's a combo wrench here in the States. Open end and box end.

      But yeah, spanner = wrench.

      (sent via mobile)
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    18. Member sc0ttyb's Avatar
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      09-11-2012 08:42 PM #18
      Also, gun = rooty tooty point and shooty

      (sent via mobile)
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      09-11-2012 08:52 PM #19
      instead of cleaning with gas/petrol, you can buy non-chlorinated carb/choke cleaner, and blast away dirt, and dries quick, as well...

    20. Junior Member dsrtfox's Avatar
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      09-12-2012 05:23 PM #20
      awesome, thanks for all the info guys.

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      10-31-2012 08:47 PM #21
      Thanks for the write-up man!

      Used it just now... Remove rebuild reinstall was about an hour. This included 15ish minutes trying to get the rubber hose off (lack of proper tool for the clamp and VW screwed me with its orientation).
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      11-20-2012 10:12 AM #22
      So, if you use APR parts they'll flash you free to 1+ if you already bought the stage 1. Which I have.

      What if you install the Autotec and stop by your local APR dealer and ask for a 1+.

      What will they charge, or will they even flash you if its not their parts?

      Thx.
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      01-29-2013 09:07 PM #23
      Does anyone know what the proper torque settings for the 3 T30 bolts, the fuel line nut and the pressure release valve? I would like to check the cam follower soon and do not want to strip them or have a fuel leak.
      Thanks!

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      01-29-2013 10:19 PM #24
      ^ i think people get a bit carried away with torque settings sometimes. When you crack a bolt/nut loose you get an idea of how tight it was in the first place - so just use common sense to do it back up in a similar way.

      The 3 bolts holding the HPFP onto the engine were not hugely tight from memory, and mainly serve to hold the HPFP assembly evenly and flush against the engine.

      The fuel line nut and pressure release valve will only go so tight, and are made from copper so the metal is soft, so again use common sense and just do it up tight without pushing it.

      I created this DIY and have done several thousand miles since the Autotech HPFP install and there are no leaks / stripped bolts etc on my car.
      Last edited by Lucas_R; 05-21-2013 at 08:40 PM.

    25. Member hazy450's Avatar
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      01-30-2013 01:50 AM #25
      Quote Originally Posted by It Hauls View Post
      So, if you use APR parts they'll flash you free to 1+ if you already bought the stage 1. Which I have.

      What if you install the Autotec and stop by your local APR dealer and ask for a 1+.

      What will they charge, or will they even flash you if its not their parts?

      Thx.
      from what i know from previous experience is once you get the initial tune you can go up or down for free...


      For example, I got a downpipe on my tiguan i used to have and it was a generic brand DP and went to APR in Alabama and they flashed it to stage 2 for free. They did not ask if it was their DP or not. now if you go to a 3rd party dealer they might charge a small fee...not sure about that one....
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    26. 02-05-2013 03:43 PM #26
      Quote Originally Posted by Lucas_R View Post
      Suitable Vehicles:

      All cars with the EA113 2.0L TFSI engine such as
      - VW Mk5 Golf GTi (incl Pirelli)
      - VW MK5 Jetta TFSI
      - VW Mk6 Golf R
      - Audi A3 8P
      - Audi S3 8P
      - Skoda Octavia vRS 2.0TFSI
      - etc etc

      NOTE: This DIY will also partly applys to HPFP Upgrade / APR HPFP / KMD etc pumps.


      1) Turn engine off (obviously)
      2) Allow engine to cool for a period of time so you can comfortably touch the HPFP without burning yourself.
      3) Either remove the fuse for the HPFP or tape the driver’s side door up to prevent it from being opened (opening the door will prime the fuel pump and spray fuel all over you = not good)
      4) Remove black screw cap from right side front of the HPFP.
      sorry from being a noob, why do you need to tape the door will it open by it self or just more of a reminder to open the door
      Current-2012 Golf R
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    27. Member bergoner's Avatar
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      02-05-2013 04:24 PM #27
      Quote Originally Posted by EVO_S4 View Post
      sorry from being a noob, why do you need to tape the door will it open by it self or just more of a reminder to open the door
      The answer to your question is right in the same sentence...

      3) Either remove the fuse for the HPFP or tape the driver’s side door up to prevent it from being opened (opening the door will prime the fuel pump and spray fuel all over you = not good)

      The tape will serve as a reminder to not open the door.
      Last edited by bergoner; 02-05-2013 at 04:27 PM.

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      02-09-2013 02:26 PM #28
      Just got done doing this, thanks for the great DIY.

      Just one thing to note I found the valve pictured here to be 13mm on my R. I checked two other 14mm wrenches I had just to be sure the one I was using wasn't messed up or anything, but the 14mm wouldn't grip.


    29. 02-18-2013 12:16 AM #29
      Cheers to you OP!

      I can honestly say, I would have most likely given up on the project if I only had the paper instructions. There are some significant variations from your directions, but having done it now, I understand better what is going on and cannot thank you enough for the write up!

      Notes:
      1. The new piston did not exactly slide right in. It took a little force to get it through, not much, but more than expected. Should I be worried?
      2. The rubber hose removal and re-attachment from step 10 is just a pain. No room to work, annoying hose clamp....
      3. There was some oil in the housing that the pump slides into. i.e. where the cam follower sits. Enough so that a little pooled on the lip of the opening. I did not see any in your write up, again anything to be concerned about?
      4. The first priming did not give the standard noise, but just a little squirt sound. I opened and closed the door several times right after with no real noise at all. Came back a few hours later and the priming noise was back to normal. (I suspect there is some pressure check that does not prime further if proper pressure is already achieved. )

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      02-18-2013 12:42 AM #30
      Quote Originally Posted by tonyh215 View Post
      Just got done doing this, thanks for the great DIY.

      Just one thing to note I found the valve pictured here to be 13mm on my R. I checked two other 14mm wrenches I had just to be sure the one I was using wasn't messed up or anything, but the 14mm wouldn't grip.

      Ok thanks for letting me know. I'll check the one on my car again incase i made a mistake and wrote the wrong size. I will update the original post if needed.

      Quote Originally Posted by Tightlines View Post
      Cheers to you OP!

      I can honestly say, I would have most likely given up on the project if I only had the paper instructions. There are some significant variations from your directions, but having done it now, I understand better what is going on and cannot thank you enough for the write up!

      Notes:
      1. The new piston did not exactly slide right in. It took a little force to get it through, not much, but more than expected. Should I be worried?
      2. The rubber hose removal and re-attachment from step 10 is just a pain. No room to work, annoying hose clamp....
      3. There was some oil in the housing that the pump slides into. i.e. where the cam follower sits. Enough so that a little pooled on the lip of the opening. I did not see any in your write up, again anything to be concerned about?
      4. The first priming did not give the standard noise, but just a little squirt sound. I opened and closed the door several times right after with no real noise at all. Came back a few hours later and the priming noise was back to normal. (I suspect there is some pressure check that does not prime further if proper pressure is already achieved. )
      Not a worry - the reason i did the DIY was because i couldn't find one anywhere (despite thousands of these kits being sold worldwide) so i knew it would come in handy for others. And the instructions from Autotech are useless.

      To answer your questions:
      1) The tolerances are very tight on these 2x parts. But you got it to fit eventually - it will be fine. I remember the Autotech instructions said that these 2 parts can be a little tricky to put together.
      2) Agree...very annoying
      3) Yes mine had a little pool of oil there too. I must have wiped it up before i took the photo. Nothing to worry about.
      4) I think (from memory) you need to lock the car and then unlock it again (a few minutes later) to prime the pump. Simply opening the door (if the car is already unlocked) doesn't always do it ive noticed.

    31. 05-20-2013 02:39 PM #31
      Just did mine today. Was a very easy job to do. One thing. On step 6 you have that a 14mm spanner is needed to take off the bleeder but infact I needed a 13mm. Just a heads up.
      2013 CW 4D Golf .:R / UnitedMotorsport stage 2/ APR RSC TB Exhaust / Forge TwinTake / NSP Golf .:R boost guage / Autotech HPFP........

    32. Banned Tranzit's Avatar
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      05-20-2013 03:52 PM #32
      Step 14 uses a picture with the autotech installed that is not a pic of the oem piston.
      Same pic as the last one, just missing the red drawings.

      Easy mod, and it performed well for me when I had it.

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      05-21-2013 08:46 PM #33
      Quote Originally Posted by VR420man View Post
      Just did mine today. Was a very easy job to do. One thing. On step 6 you have that a 14mm spanner is needed to take off the bleeder but infact I needed a 13mm. Just a heads up.
      Good stuff. I have updated my DIY to say a 13mm spanner.

      Quote Originally Posted by Tranzit View Post
      Step 14 uses a picture with the autotech installed that is not a pic of the oem piston.
      Same pic as the last one, just missing the red drawings.

      Easy mod, and it performed well for me when I had it.
      Thats correct, the pic i used in step 14 shows the Autotech parts rather than the OEM pump guts - but the point in trying to get across is how to disassemble the pump, and this is the same regardless of whether its got OEM or Autotech internals. Good spotting though. As i was taking pics and doing the pump swap by myself, there were one or two spots where i didnt get good photos or forgot to take a photos etc. But with the images and arrows/circles etc i have added, it gets the message across pretty well i think.

    34. Banned Tranzit's Avatar
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      Golf R, ALH Golf TDI
      05-21-2013 09:13 PM #34
      Quote Originally Posted by ThatVdub View Post
      instead of cleaning with gas/petrol, you can buy non-chlorinated carb/choke cleaner, and blast away dirt, and dries quick, as well...
      LOL, don't do what that dumbass above said, seals will get damaged (elongate) if sprayed on with choke/carb cleaner, regardless if it's non-chloro.

    35. Member
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      1992 Cabriolet, 2004 W8 wagon 6MT, 2012 Golf R 4dr
      05-23-2013 10:24 PM #35
      My car is already past 30K miles. A few questions.

      1. How do I tell if my cam follower is too warn?

      2. How difficult is the replacement and is there a DIY for it?

      3. Is it a VW part available or can I get one from Autotech?

      Excellent write-up!!

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