#36
you wanna switch cars for a week?![]()
APR stage 2+, OEM led tails, color matched side markers and rear reflectors, VWR intake, APR HPFP, APR TBE with diamond black tips, VWR short shifter, OEM euro seats
#37
#39
#40
#41
Vibrations seem to have decreased substantially. I no longer notice it unless I think about it. HPA told me the mount would settle in and I guess it has!
#44
Stock:
HPA:
Notice how consistently rear follows the front in the HPA version. Of course what these charts don't show is what happens when you brake into the turn and then push the car to exit. This is where the biggest difference is felt.
#45
Some comments on these charts from HPA dyno:
1. this dyno is AWD and captures wheels independently. And it is very consistent too. The numbers obtained from lesser dynos are not directly comparable to these accurate measurements.
2. these runs were done with Canadian gas which has lower density than US gas.
3. Based on comparisons to retired's R on the same dyno, Canadian 91 gas produces same results up to about 5500 RPM as the 94 gas which is what I used. Past 5500 RPM 94 octane gives about 10HP advantage.
4. HPA uses hot runs representative of what you would see on the street. Runs with cold engine produce more power. HPA does three runs on the dyno and takes the worst of the three as the result.
#46
Thanks for the pic of the car.I do miss her(Lisbeth)on nice days like today!
#47
APR stage 2+, OEM led tails, color matched side markers and rear reflectors, VWR intake, APR HPFP, APR TBE with diamond black tips, VWR short shifter, OEM euro seats
#49
#50
APR stage 2+, OEM led tails, color matched side markers and rear reflectors, VWR intake, APR HPFP, APR TBE with diamond black tips, VWR short shifter, OEM euro seats
#51
Have you only installed the cat dp on the exhaust side? How close is it to stock for noise? I like quiet stock levels and don't want louder exhaust.
If I can keep the car quiet, your mods are great.
Nice work.
#52
sup_lado the wheels are just painted.I was cheaper for me to paint them at the body shop then have them powder coated.
#53
APR stage 2+, OEM led tails, color matched side markers and rear reflectors, VWR intake, APR HPFP, APR TBE with diamond black tips, VWR short shifter, OEM euro seats
#54
Yes just the cat dp as you can see on the pictures. It mates to the stock exhaust. Noise inside of the car is ok- it only gets louder when the car accelerates hard, but outside there is much more rumble. Stock exhaust is good and is difficult to improve upon. I spent 4.5 hours on the highway today and didn't have any issues with noise.
#55
My TDI had this little storage unit so I am going to put one into R as well:
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#56
So you have had a modded R for awhile now.How are you liking things?Want MORE power?Whats your next HP upgrade?I am thinking about getting one of those storage units,maybe the euro cup holder too!
#57
I have 2500km on the car now. It pulls like crazy. Never downshifted on the highway- always accelerate in 6th for passing, etc. In 2nd and 3rd it runs to the red line very quickly and pushes me into the seat in the process. Sometimes I wish I had a four point strap on my seat... If the stock car was lame this version of it is just right. I don't think I "need" more power. At the current power level that the car is at it is perfectly enjoyable for many years to come. Instead I need to find time to use the car and explore how it behaves. Winter tires are also something to be looked at.
Having said that, never say never, right?
Before I do anything else for power though I am going to fix transmission gearing, clutch and front diff. Looking at Sachs performance clutch which will safely support current power levels and all the way up to 1/3 more torque than what I have now. Still waiting for my Peloquin- Gary is cooking some parts for it so it might take a while longer. One thing I decided to keep stock is the flywheel- not going to experiment with lighter single mass versions.
I might install intake and intercooler when HPA has something available. CTS Turbo intake and intercooler are another option but I wanted to see HPA versions first before I decided. I think in either case I will do both intake and intercooler before summer temperatures return. But no HPFP and retune until transmission/clutch/diff are done. Even if/when I do HPFP/retune I don't think I will push beyond that as it would require screwing with the turbo- either modding existing turbo or swapping it out for a meaner one.
#58
P.S. I think a skid plate is much more of a priority for me now than having more power. Been to JS Performance today, they have not made much progress yet with the plate prototypes. Hopefully soon...
#60
NICE I will have to get one when I start driving the R in the winter.That will be a couple of years from now.
#61
that looks great but with some many holes drilled out on the skidplate, doesnt it defeat the purpose of putting one on?
#62
I would not wait till winter. If you drive it on the streets and especially highways you have the risk of running into stuff that takes off your oil pan or transmission bottom. Those things aren't strong enough to handle any kind of impact. Besides I am hoping to get additional airflow down there- if we can cool the bottom down relative to stock it will be good for the transmission and diff in the summer. Will run some measurements to see what effect it has on the transmission temperature.
#63
Not at all. It is still very strong, it is light and it will protect the engine bay from almost any kind of object you can expect to hit while driving (within reason of course- it can only deal with so much energy). And most importantly I want to see what effect it has on transmission temperature. I have a Diesel Geek plate which is solid. I would not dare to even experiment with that due to the amount of attention VW put into cooling Gold R transmission. Especially with upgrades like more power and LSD both of which will only make transmission run hotter. And on top of that it looks like ECU has no idea what the temperature of the transmission is so if you run it too hot ECU won't stop you from doing damage.
#64
THAT is his car:
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...ject-Gold-Rush
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#65
#66
These charts are from AWD dyno showing spread between front and rear. Each chart has three lines- the bottom one is rear wheels, the one right on top of it is front and the one at the top is the total which is the sum of the two. The first chart is stock. The second chart is after HPA mods which included power upgrades and the competition Haldex controller. Don't worry about the top line, just look at the spread between the bottom two lines on the two charts. The stock is way better than FWD but still opens up a big gap. Plus it will disengage as you brake into a corner. So when you try to get out of the corner you are in FWD and stock controller will engage rear gradually. Which means you won't get full power to the rear until you have gone through a good portion of the turn. The HPA version of the controller will consistently keep power delivery to the rear as you can see from the chart. Plus it will keep the clutch engaged as you go into a turn. So you really have an AWD car with this setup where it matters most. At one of the turns today I had tires squealing throughout the whole turn but the car remained 100% on the trajectory and was accelerating nicely in the turn. That would not be possible with FWD.
To further improve this requires swapping out diffs. Front LSD is expensive but still easy to do. Rear diff is a problem. Apparently they weld rear ring gear at the factory so swapping out rear diff is not a trivial task. So I am doing front first.
#67
Heat treatment of gears is done and now my LSD is ready for shipping!
#68
tell us more about the gear set you are going with,and ratio's,prices,etc.I didn't even get a chance to talk to Marcel about that on the trip!
#69
#70
got ya.I guess we should start bugging Marcel and the gang at HPA about it!