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    Thread: Not sure if clutch??

    1. Junior Member
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      08-29-2012 12:56 AM #1
      Was driving home when suddenly I couldn't change gears. Car won't go in gear unless it's off and stopped. No idea what to do.

    2. Junior Member
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      08-29-2012 01:38 AM #2
      bump because please help me

    3. Member
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      08-29-2012 02:29 AM #3
      what kinda car?

      prob pressure plate
      throwout bearing
      clutch fork
      slave cylinder
      clutch disc
      could be anything. need more info

      can you clutchless shift??

    4. 08-29-2012 02:32 AM #4
      Pop the hood. Locate your clutch cable connection to the trans. Pop it off pump the end a few times towards the car, put it back on. Give it a go.

      Literally just did this to mine and it worked lol, something is failing, but not this day!

      Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2

    5. Junior Member
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      08-29-2012 02:44 AM #5
      Quote Originally Posted by Blkwidow View Post
      what kinda car?

      prob pressure plate
      throwout bearing
      clutch fork
      slave cylinder
      clutch disc
      could be anything. need more info

      can you clutchless shift??
      Mk3 gti 2.0

      And no I can't clutchless shift yet, this is my first manual car and I've had it all of 2 weeks.

    6. Junior Member
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      08-29-2012 02:45 AM #6
      Quote Originally Posted by MrPiZaT View Post
      Pop the hood. Locate your clutch cable connection to the trans. Pop it off pump the end a few times towards the car, put it back on. Give it a go.

      Literally just did this to mine and it worked lol, something is failing, but not this day!

      Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2
      How do you mean?

    7. Member csrgti's Avatar
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      08-29-2012 09:38 AM #7
      Start by visually inspecting your cable, is it still attached to the release lever? The attachment forks get old and sometimes break or fall off.
      Is your release lever in the 9oclock position? If it's resting at app. 7:30 your auto adjusting cable is shot.
      If it's still attached have a friend push the clutch pedal down while you watch the release lever, if the releaese lever moves up to app. 10:30 it's not your cable.
      Grab the release lever with your hand and pull it up , if you can pull it into the 10:30 position with your hand than you have an internal problem, but you don't have to pull the transmission yet.

      Safely Jack your drivers side wheel off the ground and put a Jack stand under it. Remove your drivers side wheel. There's a green inspection plate that needs to be pryed off ( make sure you have a new replacement the old one can't be reused). Under the plate you'll see a splined release rod and the release lever ( finger ). Grab the outside lever where your clutch cable attachs and move it up again. While you do this keep an eye on the finger. If the lever inside (finger) doesn't move the same as the lever outside, it's probably cracked.
      You'll have to remove the release lever shaft and inspect the finger for cracks.
      If all that checks out, you're problem is most likely your release plate or pressure plate and it's time to pull the transmission.

    8. Junior Member
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      08-29-2012 09:28 PM #8
      Quote Originally Posted by csrgti View Post
      Start by visually inspecting your cable, is it still attached to the release lever? The attachment forks get old and sometimes break or fall off.
      Is your release lever in the 9oclock position? If it's resting at app. 7:30 your auto adjusting cable is shot.
      If it's still attached have a friend push the clutch pedal down while you watch the release lever, if the releaese lever moves up to app. 10:30 it's not your cable.
      Grab the release lever with your hand and pull it up , if you can pull it into the 10:30 position with your hand than you have an internal problem, but you don't have to pull the transmission yet.

      Safely Jack your drivers side wheel off the ground and put a Jack stand under it. Remove your drivers side wheel. There's a green inspection plate that needs to be pryed off ( make sure you have a new replacement the old one can't be reused). Under the plate you'll see a splined release rod and the release lever ( finger ). Grab the outside lever where your clutch cable attachs and move it up again. While you do this keep an eye on the finger. If the lever inside (finger) doesn't move the same as the lever outside, it's probably cracked.
      You'll have to remove the release lever shaft and inspect the finger for cracks.
      If all that checks out, you're problem is most likely your release plate or pressure plate and it's time to pull the transmission.
      Got in the car to try and drive it, pushed the clutch to the floor and it never came back up. The cable is now very loose and the pedal is inoperable. Release lever can be moved by hand.

      I'm pissed and I need $250 to fix it myself. $500 to take it to a shop that can't get it done until next week.

      I'm broke and pissed and I have no way to get to work tomorrow.

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      08-29-2012 09:54 PM #9
      if the problem turns out to be that the pushrod went through the thrust plate DO NOT replace with anything aftermarket, not even sachs.. (sachs clutch is fine just not the thrust plate).

      I had this issue a year ago and replaced with a new thrust plate and new clip...
      the rod busted through it again recently...


      so while we were installing new parts, my friend and I found that when we installed a NEW sachs thrust plate and new clip the plate would not sit snug and the center point was off...

      only an OEM plate would sit correct. which is what we installed.
      Last edited by Svën Höek; 08-29-2012 at 09:57 PM.

    10. Member csrgti's Avatar
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      08-29-2012 11:06 PM #10
      Quote Originally Posted by bitcrusher View Post
      Got in the car to try and drive it, pushed the clutch to the floor and it never came back up. The cable is now very loose and the pedal is inoperable. Release lever can be moved by hand.

      I'm pissed and I need $250 to fix it myself. $500 to take it to a shop that can't get it done until next week.

      I'm broke and pissed and I have no way to get to work tomorrow.
      How far does the release lever move by hand?
      It may not be a $250 part to fix did you follow the steps I laid out for you to trouble shoot it yet?

    11. n00b nixana's Avatar
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      08-29-2012 11:27 PM #11
      Same thing is going on with me pedal falls in... its like if i try to touch it with my pinky it sucks it back :/

    12. n00b nixana's Avatar
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      08-29-2012 11:29 PM #12
      how to do that

    13. 08-29-2012 11:45 PM #13
      Come on guys, please, complete sentences at least please.

      Sounds like the both of you are in need of a clutch cable. Cheap item, $250 what? Where did that come from? Manual adjust cables are less than 100, so are automatic adjusting.
      Quote Originally Posted by Svën Höek View Post
      if the problem turns out to be that the pushrod went through the thrust plate DO NOT replace with anything aftermarket, not even sachs.. (sachs clutch is fine just not the thrust plate).

      I had this issue a year ago and replaced with a new thrust plate and new clip...
      the rod busted through it again recently...


      so while we were installing new parts, my friend and I found that when we installed a NEW sachs thrust plate and new clip the plate would not sit snug and the center point was off...

      only an OEM plate would sit correct. which is what we installed.
      It depends who put the "kit" together. It probably was not a sachs plate in the bs kit. Seen it before myself as well. I predict, germanautoparts.
      Last edited by emkaytree; 08-29-2012 at 11:53 PM.
      Quote Originally Posted by Rutledge View Post
      Did you know that it's not pronounced Em Kay ? ALL OF THE CAR LOUNGE WILL BE HAPPY TO LET YOU KNOW THAT. SERIOUSLY. IT STANDS FOR MARK. DID YOU KNOW THAT? BEFORE THAT A1,A2, A3, ETC WAS USED. LIVE UP TO TCL STANDARDS BEFORE YOU GET ON MY ASS. THAT'S DISGUSTING.
      Example of TCL's standards

    14. n00b nixana's Avatar
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      08-29-2012 11:47 PM #14
      I took it to my mechanic today, he told me that my cables are fine... I think that im losing pressure. Could it be?

    15. 08-29-2012 11:52 PM #15
      Cables as in plural? Wtf? There is a single cable controlling the clutch, from the front of trans to the pedal.

      The lever on the trans (with a broken cable) should be at clutch up position, whilst the pedal is down. Your mechanic is wrong if this is your case, replace the cable.
      Quote Originally Posted by Rutledge View Post
      Did you know that it's not pronounced Em Kay ? ALL OF THE CAR LOUNGE WILL BE HAPPY TO LET YOU KNOW THAT. SERIOUSLY. IT STANDS FOR MARK. DID YOU KNOW THAT? BEFORE THAT A1,A2, A3, ETC WAS USED. LIVE UP TO TCL STANDARDS BEFORE YOU GET ON MY ASS. THAT'S DISGUSTING.
      Example of TCL's standards

    16. n00b nixana's Avatar
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      08-29-2012 11:58 PM #16
      Thank you i hoped that you guys can help But it's so weird... it just happened outta nowhere...
      '97 Jetta 2.0 slow ( New project 11/17/14 )
      If you have parts around the tristate, don't hesitate, send me a message with what you got.
      '98 Jetta K2 (R.I.P)

    17. n00b onemulisha's Avatar
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      08-30-2012 01:50 AM #17
      Check your actual clutch slave cylinder I have a mk3 gti that started as a 2.0 but got swapped to a vr from a slc and I keep killing slave cylinders

    18. 08-30-2012 01:54 AM #18
      Quote Originally Posted by onemulisha View Post
      I keep killing slave cylinders
      Someone did something wrong. I'd pull the trans and check out the release lever, throw out bearing, and pressure plate. Are they just leaking on you? What manufacture are the slaves? Can't be oem if leaks are the case. I have my original on my vr at 107k miles.

      There is also no way he has a slave cylinder on an 020 trans.
      Quote Originally Posted by Rutledge View Post
      Did you know that it's not pronounced Em Kay ? ALL OF THE CAR LOUNGE WILL BE HAPPY TO LET YOU KNOW THAT. SERIOUSLY. IT STANDS FOR MARK. DID YOU KNOW THAT? BEFORE THAT A1,A2, A3, ETC WAS USED. LIVE UP TO TCL STANDARDS BEFORE YOU GET ON MY ASS. THAT'S DISGUSTING.
      Example of TCL's standards

    19. Junior Member
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      08-30-2012 04:05 AM #19
      Quote Originally Posted by csrgti View Post
      How far does the release lever move by hand?
      It may not be a $250 part to fix did you follow the steps I laid out for you to trouble shoot it yet?
      Release lever moves from 9:00 to as far up as it will possibly go and there is no resistance behind it. Prior to the pedal falling to the floor it was at 9:00 and could not be moved by hand whatsoever.

      I can move the cable up and down freely with no resistance. If I pull up on it hard enough, the pedal moves back into position, but will not have resistance when depressed.

      Haynes manual says pressure plate, cable, and release bearing are possible issues. Figure I might as well replace the whole damn assembly. $250 to DIY it, but that involves finding someone with free time and a lot more tools than I have to help me out.
      Last edited by bitcrusher; 08-30-2012 at 04:08 AM.

    20. Member csrgti's Avatar
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      08-30-2012 08:34 AM #20
      Before you spend $250 you should follow my next trouble shooting step, pull the green end cap off and look at the release finger. Its not unusual for them to break.

    21. Member tylerlb's Avatar
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      08-30-2012 10:35 AM #21
      Seriously, stop and do as csrgti said. Get a new green end cap and check the pivot arm. They crack all the time. Its ruled out as being the cable since its beyond the release arm since you move it by hand. Now you can do this with a flat head screwdriver and a jack so check it and report back. I just had this issue but mine was the thrust plate that lost its center button.

      For directions visit this site and look under throwout bearing and pivot arm
      Www.brokevw.com
      Last edited by tylerlb; 08-30-2012 at 10:43 AM.

    22. 08-30-2012 10:43 AM #22
      Quote Originally Posted by csrgti View Post
      Before you spend $250 you should follow my next trouble shooting step, pull the green end cap off and look at the release finger. Its not unusual for them to break.

      This 110% ^^^



      Also, the thrust plate button issue is usually the pushrod bushing, not the plate itself. Most people ignore replacing the pushrod and pushrod bushing when changing the thrust plate, and it gets destroyed in no time. They (Pushrod and thrustplate) wear together, and must be replaced as a set, and by the time the clutch needs done, the pushrod bushing is in need of replacement as well.

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      08-30-2012 11:46 AM #23
      Quote Originally Posted by JohnStamos View Post
      This 110% ^^^



      Also, the thrust plate button issue is usually the pushrod bushing, not the plate itself.
      in my case though, all the seals were replaced one year earlier and upon removal of the trans, all seals were still fine. the fault was that the plate didn't sit center. when the plate is able to move a fraction of an inch side to side the center point where the rod hits is off and so the rod doesn't hit the reinforced part of the plate, thus making a hole in the side. just my 2 cents.

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      08-30-2012 02:13 PM #24
      Quote Originally Posted by tylerlb View Post
      Seriously, stop and do as csrgti said. Get a new green end cap and check the pivot arm. They crack all the time. Its ruled out as being the cable since its beyond the release arm since you move it by hand. Now you can do this with a flat head screwdriver and a jack so check it and report back. I just had this issue but mine was the thrust plate that lost its center button.

      For directions visit this site and look under throwout bearing and pivot arm
      Www.brokevw.com
      I'd love to do this but the problem is where the hell do get a new end cap? Its not like they grow on trees. Can I drive without it?

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      08-30-2012 02:38 PM #25
      Quote Originally Posted by Svën Höek View Post
      if the problem turns out to be that the pushrod went through the thrust plate DO NOT replace with anything aftermarket, not even sachs.. (sachs clutch is fine just not the thrust plate).

      I had this issue a year ago and replaced with a new thrust plate and new clip...
      the rod busted through it again recently...


      so while we were installing new parts, my friend and I found that when we installed a NEW sachs thrust plate and new clip the plate would not sit snug and the center point was off...

      only an OEM plate would sit correct. which is what we installed.

      This should be a lesson to you. Stop being a GAP Fanboy.

      You should stop buying JUNK from GAP (germanautoparts). They put their clutch sets/kits together, and they don't use all Sachs parts.

      Stock VW Parts are Sachs or Valeo or LUK. Sachs Clutch Sets come packaged in a Sachs Clutch Superset Box. If it didn't/doesn't come in a Sachs Superset Box, THEN IT ISN'T A SACHS CLUTCH.

      A defective self-adjusting clutch cable, OR a mis-adjusted manually adjusted clutch cable can also cause a problem similar to the one pictured in the photo (looks like it could be a overtravel problem).
      Last edited by germancarnut51; 08-30-2012 at 02:44 PM.

    26. Member tylerlb's Avatar
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      08-30-2012 05:33 PM #26
      Quote Originally Posted by bitcrusher View Post
      I'd love to do this but the problem is where the hell do get a new end cap? Its not like they grow on trees. Can I drive without it?
      the dealer and maybe autoparts stores. you cannot drive without cause the cap is a seal for the tranny fluid

      or you can order it here
      http://www.autohausaz.com/search/pro...Bushing/O-Ring

      or here
      http://www.bestpricecarparts.com/Sho...Gasket&mode=PA

    27. Member LC5P_12v's Avatar
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      09-01-2012 12:30 AM #27
      Bow Wow that is Local can order one or might have one in stock... But if they have to order it for you tomorrow it won't come in till Tuesday morning around 11...

      Also nobody in town will have one in stock either... I know this from trying to source one last fall...

      The End cap will cost you $5-8ish if I remember correctly as well...

      Also do yourself a HUGE favor and buy a Bentley... They can be bought new from MJM for $60 shipped or $70ish if you buy new from Bow Wow...

    28. Junior Member
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      09-01-2012 05:34 AM #28
      A Bentley? I assume you're not taking about a car.

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      09-01-2012 11:39 AM #29
      Quote Originally Posted by bitcrusher View Post
      A Bentley? I assume you're not taking about a car.
      Bentley is the publisher of the VW Factory Service Manual. YOu can often find a used manual in the For Sale Forum for less than $40 shipped.

    30. Junior Member
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      09-01-2012 01:51 PM #30
      I got a Haynes manual. I could probably get a FSM from a local import shop.

    31. Member LC5P_12v's Avatar
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      09-01-2012 02:32 PM #31
      Quote Originally Posted by bitcrusher View Post
      I got a Haynes manual. I could probably get a FSM from a local import shop.
      The Haynes manual is complete garbage... Just get yourself a Bentley as it will provide 10 times the amount of informormation that the Haynes has...

    32. 09-01-2012 09:13 PM #32
      Quote Originally Posted by germancarnut51 View Post
      Bentley is the publisher of the VW Factory Service Manual.

      The printed Bentley are not factory service manuals. They are merely based off of the factory digital VW service manuals.

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      09-01-2012 10:46 PM #33
      Quote Originally Posted by germancarnut51 View Post
      This should be a lesson to you. Stop being a GAP Fanboy.

      You should stop buying JUNK from GAP (germanautoparts). They put their clutch sets/kits together, and they don't use all Sachs parts.

      Stock VW Parts are Sachs or Valeo or LUK. Sachs Clutch Sets come packaged in a Sachs Clutch Superset Box. If it didn't/doesn't come in a Sachs Superset Box, THEN IT ISN'T A SACHS CLUTCH.


      Look at you gettin all mad n'sh*t.
      I like ride height alteration in either direction.

    34. 09-01-2012 11:27 PM #34
      I'm actually pretty pissed about it too actually. Don't be such a baby. GAP sells you crap a good portion of the time. 80% of the tin can crap on their site is not even labeled a manufacture.

      I'd rather roll the dice with mjm anyday, at least it will be oem or as advertised (meyle etc)
      Quote Originally Posted by Rutledge View Post
      Did you know that it's not pronounced Em Kay ? ALL OF THE CAR LOUNGE WILL BE HAPPY TO LET YOU KNOW THAT. SERIOUSLY. IT STANDS FOR MARK. DID YOU KNOW THAT? BEFORE THAT A1,A2, A3, ETC WAS USED. LIVE UP TO TCL STANDARDS BEFORE YOU GET ON MY ASS. THAT'S DISGUSTING.
      Example of TCL's standards

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      09-02-2012 07:07 PM #35
      Quote Originally Posted by emkaytree View Post
      I'm actually pretty pissed about it too actually. Don't be such a baby. GAP sells you crap a good portion of the time. 80% of the tin can crap on their site is not even labeled a manufacture.

      I'd rather roll the dice with mjm anyday, at least it will be oem or as advertised (meyle etc)

      The past few times I ordered individual Sachs release plates from AutohausAz.com and Europartsdirect.com, they actually came in (what I considered to be) oversized, Genuine Sachs marked boxes. No question about the maker of those parts. And no problems with the clutches in the cars that they were installed in.

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