Only about 300 V70 T5M's were made so they are not easy to fine.
They really are amazing values.
If you were in SoCal I would probably buy your car.
It's all midrange torque anyway, so you are never going to need to really wring it out. I feel like getting the 5-speed would result in a lot of short-shifting and don't know how much performance benefit you would get. The auto does better MPG on the freeway, too.
The M66 transmission from the S60R and later T5M's is another story; though the swap isn't completely straightforward and finding an already swapped car would be tough. Another volvo unicorn is the S60 T5M w/ the 6-speed, whihc they only made for one or two years. Stock for stock it's very close to an R, and when you mod them they are considerably quicker.
The wiring on them is pretty poor quality, though. It gets brittle easily.
Parts prices are definitely on the high side, though, and there aren't a lot of decent non-OEM replacements. And yeah, the PCV system is a pain, but I still stand by my statement that the cars are not difficult to work on in general.
Correct the OEM suspension with some Koni Yellow ajustables, and some MILD springs, don't go low as with any car if you like driving it, because it's super harsh, especially in these NE roads.
I'd sell you my 850R if you wanted a sedan.
There is something to be said about looking into the enthusiast crowd when buying a car too. There are some really smart and down to earth individuals who own Volvo's. The 'scene' isn't too bad and there is a ton of information out about them and their limits.
I had h/r springs on mine with monroe sensatracs (not Konis, but they were European-made and better than stock) and it rode significantly better than stock. IMO the suspensions on these cars are tuned for higher speeds, also, as the ride on mine would smooth out above 70mph, but could be a bit harsh when absorbing low-speed impacts.
Probably a few hundred plus parts but myself and a few other local people have done them so many times that any one of us would do it for much cheaper in an afternoon.
There are a lot of rubber links in the front end that wear and when they do, the car get's sloppy. However, changing them is not hard and the reward is definitely there. I just changed out word sub-frame bushings and couldn't believe I was driving the same car. Stay away from anything poly unless you like doing the job more often than normal and you hate your lower back.
Not that many torx bolts. Practically all are T20 and T25 and located in the interior.
I just picked up a 2000 S70 GLT SE with 102k on the clock to use as a beater for the city.
Paid 3k from a friend who also had a 98 for sale with 70k and a new timing belt that he sold for 4500.
It's fairly solid, i ordered the timing belt and pulleys, serp belt and I plan on changing all the fluids. Probably not as nice as my last 9-5 Aero but still a very solid and reliable car and has been trouble free thus far. The LPT 5 cylinder is a great motor for just cruising and road trips and the trans is butter smooth. Seats are comfy and the thing I like best is the driving position. It's very boxy and gives you great visibility angles like the old 240's and even C900's. One thing I despise about new cars today is the moulded round dash and tilted glass. And yes it's an auto for the city, my A4 is a 6 speed for driving out the mountains on the weekends.
Last edited by reticulan; 09-11-2012 at 08:58 PM.
So I took a look at 2 cars today that were not properly advertised
one needs an AC repair (could be the evaporator/condensor/$1200 AC job) or it could need a recharge. It is also a salvage title...
The other needs a timing belt. looks like a $250 job
if anyone sees any, let me know. I'm getting desperate.
Last edited by Chapel; 09-16-2012 at 06:20 PM.
Looked at one today. 245k miles
High side AC line leaks
Tranny + engine mounts weak
PVC check (less than 20k but smokes out dipstick)
After removing dipstick and oil cap the exhaust smoked for a while.
New tbelt but unsure if water pump done (asking his dad)
Rear wiper motor dead
Valve cover gasket weeping? Smoking badly from top of exhaust manifold. Normally this is an oil leak from the valve cover
Worried that its piston rings if still smoking.
How much are they asking?
I'd want to check compression with that many miles.
Other stuff isn't too concerning, especially the water pump as they are generally only replaced when bad on these.
I'd think you should be able to find something with under 200k on it. What models and years are you zeroing in on?
1987 Mercedes 190E 16v Cosworth
1997 Volvo 855 T5
2010 Volvo XC90
Not sure if this is a good deal or not, but here you go.