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    Thread: Tell me about: Volvo 850 and S70 V70s

    1. Member OptimusGlen's Avatar
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      09-07-2012 09:51 AM #76
      Another pic of my $600 855 Turbo


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      09-07-2012 10:09 AM #77
      Quote Originally Posted by blackohio View Post
      Know this. If you but an 850/v70 you'll be doing a couple things (if the owner hasnt already done them.) and is listing it in the for sale ad.

      Timing Belt. Interference motor, nuff said.
      Water Pump - with T-belt. Although if it isnt leaking and the shaft doesnt have play, i'd leave it the hell alone.
      PCV system. Dont think if but when and by when I mean when you buy it as it'll 99.9% be clogged and useless causing oil leaks and potential seal issues. I just did my PCV system this morning. Took me about 4 hours start-to-finish. Not too hard at all, just a few pita bolts to get to. Read up on the matthewsvolvo site, its a ridiculous wealth of knowledge.

      IPD sells a PCV kit for $140 bones, i'd but new plugs/wires/cap/rotor at the time since you in there and a seal for the pil cap since they like to leak onto the top on the cam cover and potentially down into the plug wells. I was lucky that no oil seeped down in, but all the cover gallies were full of oil. Shop vac to the rescue.

      Also while removing the plug wires I literally had two fall apart inside the plug well. Shop vac to the rescue again.

      Lots of little vacuum lines/hoses that don't age well on these cars, again IPD sell those parts.
      Something else that comes to mind with my Volvo was that I used synthetic oil from 87,000 miles on, and that seemed to save my PCV system, at 181k miles it was just starting to clog a bit. the first clue that your PCV is going is that the top of your motor will be covered in oil, all the way down to the spark plug holes. Wait, don't freak out yet, its probably not your valve cover gasket. Its most likely the oil filler gasket on the top of the motor. I never did replace mine, I just mopped up the oil because I figured that if I did replace it, it would blow out a seal that was harder to replace. I bought the PCV kit from FCP, but I never got the time to install it, I just included it with the car when I sold it.

    3. Geriatric Member Chapel's Avatar
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      '97 BMW 328i | '10 Mazda5
      09-07-2012 11:12 AM #78
      What exactly gets replaced in the PCV system? Saabs had like 8 revisions of PCV for the 9-5. I needed to do that to mine

    4. Member zhenya00's Avatar
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      09-07-2012 11:18 AM #79
      Quote Originally Posted by Chapel View Post
      What exactly gets replaced in the PCV system? Saabs had like 8 revisions of PCV for the 9-5. I needed to do that to mine
      Here you go (for a T5):
      http://www.ipdusa.com/products/4984/...her-system-kit



      I'll second that synthetic oil seems to mitigate this issue for me. I'm at 170k+ and to my knowledge, it's never been touched. Been on M1 High Mileage since 125k.
      1987 Mercedes 190E 16v Cosworth
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    5. Member OptimusGlen's Avatar
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      09-07-2012 11:28 AM #80
      It's worth noting that you need to clean out your PTC when you do the PCV replacement.

      http://lakesidedp.com/uploadpics/pcv/#ptc

      I replaced the whole PCV system with OEM parts and was still getting smoke out of the dipstick and oil on top of the engine, all because I hadn't cleaned the PTC.

    6. Member zhenya00's Avatar
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      09-07-2012 11:34 AM #81
      Quote Originally Posted by OptimusGlen View Post
      It's worth noting that you need to clean out your PTC when you do the PCV replacement.

      http://lakesidedp.com/uploadpics/pcv/#ptc

      I replaced the whole PCV system with OEM parts and was still getting smoke out of the dipstick and oil on top of the engine, all because I hadn't cleaned the PTC.
      Yup, I checked mine at 160k. Clean as a whistle.
      1987 Mercedes 190E 16v Cosworth
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    7. Member rynodyno312's Avatar
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      09-07-2012 12:14 PM #82
      Quote Originally Posted by Fettes Brot View Post
      FYI, unless they have a new supplier, the rubber hoses IPD uses in that kit are of a very low quality. I've seen a couple guys tear the hose that goes from the side of the trap to the front of the block when tightening the clamp down.

      That being said, I have yet to see a quality aftermarket replacement part for a Volvo. I recommend OEM parts only. This doesn't apply to performance parts, as most of the Volvo performance stuff appears to be of high quality.
      Samco makes some nice silicone intercooler hoses; and I agree that using rubber hoses on a turbo car is not a good idea. The first "mod" I did was to upgrade my vacuum lines to thick-walled silicone lines.

      I know on the volvospeed forum, the "Stage 0" was always recommended as a first mod: change out the vacuum lines/intercooler hoses, distributor/wires (for pre '99 cars), and a few other small things I can't remember. I was lucky enough to buy mine back in '07 from the original owner who had a folder of service records 1" thick and was pretty much perfect, but at this point these are older cars that will need some refreshing to be running well.

      Dammit, this thread is making me want another T5. I wish I could find some pics of my old one.

    8. Member trigtm's Avatar
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      09-07-2012 02:46 PM #83
      Great info in this thread. Check out Swedespeed.com classifides for a few nice ones for sale, in some rare colors too. Everyone hit the nail on the head with typical and even atypical issues.

      There is a bunch of us in NE so if you have questions of want to take a closer look and some in great condition, let us know.

      AWD is finicky because of the viscous coupling that connects the front to the rear after the driveshaft. Sicne there is almost no play between lock and unlock, tire size issues, towing and proper maintenance play a huge part in keeping the system together. Then it starts to go, it will cause issues upstream in the bevel gear. Weak link in the whole system is a splined coupling, basically a 1" long collar with splines on the inside that mates the trans to the bevel gear (transfer case). Get a little water in there, splines start degrading. Bad feedback from the gear or the viscous and the splines wear out and are a pain to replace. The P2 platform solves the issues by keeping the coupling more stable with a different type of AWD system.

      Probably the best model to go with is a low pressure turbo GLT 97 850. Plenty of power and not hard to find and can be made to have more power since it has a larger engine (2.4 vs 2.3) and the turbo shouldn't hold you back and easy to upgrade if you see fit.
      Quote Originally Posted by lago_b View Post
      You don't own a Sawzall? I suppose you don't own a wet/dry vac either, and Friday nights consist of a Sex and the City marathon, Cherry Garcia, and a good douching before bed? You must go get a Sawzall, son.

    9. Member trigtm's Avatar
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      09-07-2012 02:51 PM #84
      Oh and when buying parts, NEVER buy anything by URO or SCANTECH. All crap.

      Replace vac lines with silicone.
      Quote Originally Posted by lago_b View Post
      You don't own a Sawzall? I suppose you don't own a wet/dry vac either, and Friday nights consist of a Sex and the City marathon, Cherry Garcia, and a good douching before bed? You must go get a Sawzall, son.

    10. Member rynodyno312's Avatar
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      09-07-2012 03:26 PM #85
      Quote Originally Posted by trigtm View Post
      Probably the best model to go with is a low pressure turbo GLT 97 850. Plenty of power and not hard to find and can be made to have more power since it has a larger engine (2.4 vs 2.3) and the turbo shouldn't hold you back and easy to upgrade if you see fit.
      I have seen some impressive numbers from GLT's with a T5 ecu and T5 turbo (td04-16t IIRC). That would be extremely inexpensive and probably a ton of fun, though I might be a little concerned about the transmission at the higher power levels.

      If nothing else, you will get better off-boost response. The T5 is fairly laggy.

    11. Member wheeltowheel's Avatar
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      09-07-2012 03:29 PM #86
      Pollos.

    12. Member 4-Dr-W-a-T's Avatar
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      09-07-2012 03:35 PM #87
      My dad had a 850 wagon. Awesome awesome car. We took it skiing, and numerous times had to blast into the snow pile from the plows to get back into the driveway. My only complaint was the window controls location.

      Im considering a Volvo wagon once Im done with my VW. I only have 5 months left with the VW. It will be bittersweet.

    13. Geriatric Member Chapel's Avatar
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      09-07-2012 03:48 PM #88
      Quote Originally Posted by 4-Dr-W-a-T View Post
      My dad had a 850 wagon. Awesome awesome car. We took it skiing, and numerous times had to blast into the snow pile from the plows to get back into the driveway. My only complaint was the window controls location.
      where are they?

      I know the 850s have those weird door latches too

    14. Member rynodyno312's Avatar
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      09-07-2012 04:57 PM #89
      Quote Originally Posted by Chapel View Post
      where are they?
      Center console, IIRC. Same as older BMWs.

    15. Geriatric Member Chapel's Avatar
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      09-07-2012 05:09 PM #90
      Oh, I always liked that on my BMW.
      Only issue is if there's a cupholder near it and you spill soda on the buttons...

    16. Member sandiegan's Avatar
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      09-07-2012 05:13 PM #91
      I've owned a lot of cars.
      Three S2000's
      A Corvette
      An Elise
      Miatas, Integra, Prelude

      I only miss two cars:
      C5 Z51
      850 Turbo Wagon

      Damn this thread, I must own another now...

    17. Member rynodyno312's Avatar
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      09-07-2012 05:38 PM #92
      Quote Originally Posted by sandiegan View Post
      Damn this thread, I must own another now...
      I am getting the same feeling.

    18. Member zhenya00's Avatar
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      09-07-2012 07:45 PM #93
      Quote Originally Posted by Chapel View Post
      Oh, I always liked that on my BMW.
      Only issue is if there's a cupholder near it and you spill soda on the buttons...
      Yes, there is a very crappy cup holder that pulls out of the center arm rest right above them.

      Mine have been fine, fwiw. I like the location now that both of my cars have them there.
      1987 Mercedes 190E 16v Cosworth
      1997 Volvo 855 T5
      2010 Volvo XC90
      2013 Prius Plug-In

    19. Member zhenya00's Avatar
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      09-07-2012 07:59 PM #94
      I'll add some thoughts about what I think is the only major weak spot on the 850 - the suspension.

      In stock form it's too soft for sporty driving (the R may be better than my T5), and it has relatively little travel so it rides rough even in stock form. Mine has virtually every upgrade you can get - Koni FSD'S, IPD swaybars, and an OMP strut brace. Lowering it makes it ride all the harsher. Its not awful, and I've had cars that are much stiffer, but for one that I tried to maintain the ride quality, it's a little rough. It does handle well now, however. Note that some cars, including my T5 were equipped with no rear sway bar from the factory, which made for sketchy handling IMHO.
      1987 Mercedes 190E 16v Cosworth
      1997 Volvo 855 T5
      2010 Volvo XC90
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    20. Geriatric Member Chapel's Avatar
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      09-07-2012 10:01 PM #95
      Quote Originally Posted by sandiegan View Post
      Damn this thread, I must own another now...
      Quote Originally Posted by rynodyno312 View Post
      I am getting the same feeling.
      My threads tend to do that to people

      Yeah, I'm thinking just some suspension would be awesome with a chip.

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      09-07-2012 11:53 PM #96
      im pretty fortunate that IPD is about 15 minutes from my house.
      card carrying autocrat.

      my sofa pulls out, but I don't.

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      09-08-2012 12:36 PM #97
      Quote Originally Posted by trigtm View Post

      Probably the best model to go with is a low pressure turbo GLT 97 850. Plenty of power and not hard to find and can be made to have more power since it has a larger engine (2.4 vs 2.3) and the turbo shouldn't hold you back and easy to upgrade if you see fit.
      The biggest issue with the lpt was that they were never made with a manual in any market. So to get a 5 speed, you need to swap

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      Throbbing Maroon Dildo
      09-08-2012 12:46 PM #98
      also the lpt was a higher compression motor than the t5 so running higher boost pressure can get expensive real fast. However a good tune on the lpt should make a decent driver, or a stiock T5 and T5 ecu/injectors and it should be fine (which will cost you less than a lpt ecu tune.)
      card carrying autocrat.

      my sofa pulls out, but I don't.

    24. Geriatric Member Chapel's Avatar
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      09-10-2012 10:46 PM #99
      So, there's two options on the table right now
      a 270k mile V70 T5 Manual in Blue for $3000
      a 216k mile V70 T5 Auto in RED for $2500 (has a dent on the fender that needs to be pulled)
      both are 98s

    25. Member
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      09-10-2012 11:58 PM #100
      either have records? whats more important rowing gears or lower miles?
      card carrying autocrat.

      my sofa pulls out, but I don't.

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