Does anyone happen to know off the top of their head what the stock bug's shock > overall lingth, and travel would be? That way I know about what size hijackers to look for. Thanks
so i want to lower my 75 bug soon and i was thinking starting with 2 1/5" drop spindles, and then some Gabriel hijackers on the front and rear of the car. these shocks are air assisted and instead of the car bleeding the air out when it is parked and what not i could just set the ride hight the way i want and keep them that way. unless i could figure a way to add a air pump and tank to them.
thought id ask what you all thought about that set up.
here is a picture of the shocks for reference.
I find this statement to be very interesting, so if you have air bags you really have no idea what ride height your ride may be at any given time, especially when parked man......bags sound really complicated. I cant believe no one thought of using those air shocks before sounds alot easier.these shocks are air assisted and instead of the car bleeding the air out when it is parked and what not i could just set the ride hight the way i want and keep them that way.
Smile it will get Worse!!
So I guess you all like where this is going ? And plus the mk4 is my wife's car, she won't let me play with it to much. So I got some measuments today for the front and rear stock shocks.
Front - compressed from stud bushing to eyelit is 13 1/4"
Front - uncompressed from stud bushing to eyelit is 18"
Rear - compressed from eyelit center to eyelit center is 10 1/2"
Rear - uncompressed from eyelit to eyelit is 16"
So I found the hijackers for the rear that have both eyelits but the font is where I'm stumped. I'm not sure if hijackers come in a stud to eyelit. So the search goes on. Hope to have some results soon.
why won't your idea work? first up your shock mounts are not designed to take the load of the vehicle. then secondly, what are you gonna do about your torsions? your air shock setup would be fighting against the torsions no matter what height you put it at...and which, more than likely, would make it ride like total ass as a result. third? sure. if you check out air beam setups they are removing the torsions, and/or incorporating them into the air bag setups so that they still work like factory. and above all they are usually leaving the stock shock mounting locations for one to run shocks...so that the setup would ride decently at a driveable height.
google-ing "air beams for vw's" will get you off and running on the information that's out there on this subject
Ok thanks, I know it wasn't a new found idea at all I just wanted to know if it was possible to do that set up and you answered that. I did think about the tortion bars and how that would work out. So if I were to legitamently buy a bag set up and have on bag in the front been an two in the back what would happen to the tortion bars then ? I saw someone here do a set up like that but they were not clear on how the bag moved the beam. Here again I'm just tossing ideas around if I wanted to bag my bug or make it static, but thanks for all the help so far
"if you check out air beam setups they are removing the torsions, and/or incorporating them into the air bag setups so that they still work like factory." - A1steaksauce
That's what I thought, you would have to remove the tortion bar or come up with another way.
most everyone leaves the rear torsion bars in. set the pan to the lowest ride height you want when the bags are empty. then run the bag set up to rotate them downwards "which raises the car" when airing up.
I had a brain fart. what if you left the front torsion stacks in. they are locked in place by the center mounting bolt in the tubes. when you put in adjusters you split the beam and put them in so they will let the torsion stacks rotate to the desired height and then lock them back in place. my fart is this, could you not rig the center locking like an adjuster so it will rotate free when being aired up or down then use some sort of air lock to lock them back in place to have a stock ride. only use a bag to air up and down?
Smile it will get Worse!!
use the monroe air shocks in the front.
remove the torsions add drop spindles and add in a solid rod trough and run the shocks
monroe air shock thread. go through this
through bolt set up for up front after torsions are removed. note the air shocks also
So I decided to go with bags on the back and just make my own brackets. I already have the tank and pump so all I really need are the bags, fittings , and air line. Where would be the place to look for those maybe individualized. Thanks
Last edited by Hackintosh; 09-22-2012 at 01:16 AM.
you also need valves. and don't be a cheap skate when it comes to fittings. last thing you want is a crap home depot fitting blowing under pressure and you lay out at highway speeds. and in making your own brackets make sure nothing is anywhere near your bag that could potentially rub through it...
what I'm saying is don't buy cheap stuff, it's your life when it fails
static is for poor people.
Louisiana European Car Club
Sry if I'm repeating what's already been stated but I only had a sec to thumb thru this thread but decided I needed to chime in wid my 2cents. Having the history of bagging and juicing ( hydraulics for those that don't remrber that bein the at one time only option for adjustable suspension)....airshocks if the right ones will work on the front of a standard....as a matter of fact there are several companies that sell air setups that the front is just that! And as for the torsion bars....takem out...remember they work in both directions.....when pushed up they push down...when pushed down...u guessed it they push up....so in other words they make ur bag or shock or cylinder work twice as hard to lift the car from a "preset" stance....a thru bolt as mentioned before will keep it all together in the front....as for the rear...slide them out and bolt it all back together....if your wheel/ tire combo allow it to hitrock bottom then u can get a different bump stop to limit its drop in the rear....as for the front....I've truthfully never fully worried about....I've always ran a big enough rim that rests the fender on it before the car hits ground....but there are ways to do whatever u want...depends on ur creativity and patience! But do please be carefull in ur trial and error! Hopefully this helps! Oh and dont skimp on valves!!!! Electric or manual. But if goin cheapest route manual will work just fine....remember these cars r light so they don't require a metric assload of force to pushem up! Hopefully this helps u on ur journey!
Ok so I know I'm brig this bak from the dead but didn't want to start a new thread.
I got my tortion bars out and the thru rods in. I want to know what you all think in how I went about doing it. I have two steel washers / two neoprene washers/ one steel washer/ locking nut with cotter pin
if you ever for any reason have to take that assembly apart you're pretty much going to be SOL on getting that cotter pin to go back exactly how you have it.
i would leave the rod ends out past the nuts somewhat and simply drill the rod and put the cotter pin out there, not thru the nut. that way you don't have to worry about trying to get the nut to line back up with the hole in the rod. and at the end of the day it does the exact same thing
thanks A1 that idea did cross my mind but i was told that it would be ok hahaha so i went ahead and did it this way till i can buy some of the squeez nuts in the picture that was posted earlier. i looked everywhere local and no one knew what i was talkinga bout. so i guess ill have to order them but might just do what you said seeings as i wouldnt have to order anything.
also i know i have to cut the all-thread down this picture was taken just before i trimmed them down. But even cut down close, at both maximum low and high the all-thread seems to either touch the tire (when low) and the wheel (at high) so i guess ill have to adjust the bolts so that the wheel stops just before it touches the thread
Last edited by Hackintosh; 01-08-2013 at 09:47 PM.
& crimp top nuts like
Both should be available @ just ~ any local hardware store & both should be considered as one time use only since they lose their gripping ability pretty drasticly on reapplication due to being undistorted.
Both are also used on things as critical as CV joints & stub axles on all late MK cars
You could also probably lose 1 each of the doubled up neoprene washers for a skosh more room since 3 surfaces rubbing against each other is ~ the same as 4 frictionwise.
Last edited by buggyman; 01-09-2013 at 01:42 AM.
its fine, leave it and get it done, if you need to come back and take it apart then fix it then
saucy is right tho, it would have been better to have the cotter on the outside of the nut.
next time right. both saucy and i know about the next time stuff