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    Thread: Cheap man's air ride question lol

    1. Member
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      09-09-2012 09:06 PM #1
      so i want to lower my 75 bug soon and i was thinking starting with 2 1/5" drop spindles, and then some Gabriel hijackers on the front and rear of the car. these shocks are air assisted and instead of the car bleeding the air out when it is parked and what not i could just set the ride hight the way i want and keep them that way. unless i could figure a way to add a air pump and tank to them.

      thought id ask what you all thought about that set up.

      here is a picture of the shocks for reference.
      http://a.cdnbrm.com/images/products/...ker_shocks.jpg

    2. Member
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      09-10-2012 08:25 AM #2
      Does anyone happen to know off the top of their head what the stock bug's shock > overall lingth, and travel would be? That way I know about what size hijackers to look for. Thanks

    3. Member JDII's Avatar
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      09-10-2012 04:47 PM #3
      these shocks are air assisted and instead of the car bleeding the air out when it is parked and what not i could just set the ride hight the way i want and keep them that way.
      I find this statement to be very interesting, so if you have air bags you really have no idea what ride height your ride may be at any given time, especially when parked man......bags sound really complicated. I cant believe no one thought of using those air shocks before sounds alot easier.
      Smile it will get Worse!!

    4. 09-10-2012 05:03 PM #4
      Quote Originally Posted by JDII View Post
      bags sound really complicated. I cant believe no one thought of using those air shocks before sounds alot easier.
      leave it to the MK4 kids to show the way and enlighten us to all things lowered of an aircooled

    5. Member
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      09-10-2012 10:49 PM #5
      So I guess you all like where this is going ? And plus the mk4 is my wife's car, she won't let me play with it to much. So I got some measuments today for the front and rear stock shocks.

      Front - compressed from stud bushing to eyelit is 13 1/4"
      Front - uncompressed from stud bushing to eyelit is 18"

      Rear - compressed from eyelit center to eyelit center is 10 1/2"
      Rear - uncompressed from eyelit to eyelit is 16"

      So I found the hijackers for the rear that have both eyelits but the font is where I'm stumped. I'm not sure if hijackers come in a stud to eyelit. So the search goes on. Hope to have some results soon.

    6. 09-10-2012 11:31 PM #6
      Quote Originally Posted by Hackintosh View Post
      So I guess you all like where this is going ?
      no we don't. it's called sarcasm.

      you think you're coming up with something amazingly new and different? you're not.

      this setup will not work successfully.


    7. Member
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      09-10-2012 11:41 PM #7
      Why wouldn't it work ? I like to know that's why I was asking, so that someone that knew more than I do about it would share what they know on this subject. Sorry for the dumb question I guess.

    8. 09-10-2012 11:56 PM #8
      Quote Originally Posted by Hackintosh View Post
      Why wouldn't it work ? I like to know that's why I was asking, so that someone that knew more than I do about it would share what they know on this subject. Sorry for the dumb question I guess.
      there's boat loads of info on air ride setups for aircooled beetles/buses/type III's/etc out there....and unless you are a good fabricator or have deep pockets there isn't another viable option to making an air ride setup.

      why won't your idea work? first up your shock mounts are not designed to take the load of the vehicle. then secondly, what are you gonna do about your torsions? your air shock setup would be fighting against the torsions no matter what height you put it at...and which, more than likely, would make it ride like total ass as a result. third? sure. if you check out air beam setups they are removing the torsions, and/or incorporating them into the air bag setups so that they still work like factory. and above all they are usually leaving the stock shock mounting locations for one to run shocks...so that the setup would ride decently at a driveable height.

      google-ing "air beams for vw's" will get you off and running on the information that's out there on this subject

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      09-11-2012 12:06 AM #9
      Ok thanks, I know it wasn't a new found idea at all I just wanted to know if it was possible to do that set up and you answered that. I did think about the tortion bars and how that would work out. So if I were to legitamently buy a bag set up and have on bag in the front been an two in the back what would happen to the tortion bars then ? I saw someone here do a set up like that but they were not clear on how the bag moved the beam. Here again I'm just tossing ideas around if I wanted to bag my bug or make it static, but thanks for all the help so far

    10. 09-11-2012 08:44 AM #10
      Quote Originally Posted by A1steaksauce View Post
      there's boat loads of info on air ride setups for aircooled beetles/buses/type III's/etc out there....and unless you are a good fabricator or have deep pockets there isn't another viable option to making an air ride setup.

      why won't your idea work? first up your shock mounts are not designed to take the load of the vehicle. then secondly, what are you gonna do about your torsions? your air shock setup would be fighting against the torsions no matter what height you put it at...and which, more than likely, would make it ride like total ass as a result. third? sure. if you check out air beam setups they are removing the torsions, and/or incorporating them into the air bag setups so that they still work like factory. and above all they are usually leaving the stock shock mounting locations for one to run shocks...so that the setup would ride decently at a driveable height.

      google-ing "air beams for vw's" will get you off and running on the information that's out there on this subject

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      09-11-2012 10:11 AM #11
      So what do you do with the tortion bar when you bag it ?

    12. Member JDII's Avatar
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      09-11-2012 10:28 AM #12
      Quote Originally Posted by Hackintosh View Post
      So what do you do with the tortion bar when you bag it ?
      thats the beauty of fabbing the suspension set up yourself...... it's totally up to you!!!!
      Smile it will get Worse!!

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      09-11-2012 12:56 PM #13
      "if you check out air beam setups they are removing the torsions, and/or incorporating them into the air bag setups so that they still work like factory." - A1steaksauce

      That's what I thought, you would have to remove the tortion bar or come up with another way.

    14. Member LooseNuts's Avatar
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      09-11-2012 03:35 PM #14
      most everyone leaves the rear torsion bars in. set the pan to the lowest ride height you want when the bags are empty. then run the bag set up to rotate them downwards "which raises the car" when airing up.
      J
      Quote Originally Posted by WideFive
      If you have to ask if it's a good trade... then it isn't a good trade.
      Quote Originally Posted by Schell R32
      ACW's aren't a watercooled APPLIANCE,it's a classic air cooled pile that takes money,patience and attitude to own it.
      http://www.facebook.com/VWLoosenuts?sk=wall www.cultwagen.com.

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      09-11-2012 04:22 PM #15
      Understood. Im still getting mixed answers about the front tortion bar. Some say they put a solid bar in place of the tortion bar and some say they took it completely out. So what's best for the set up I was trying to make work.?

    16. 09-11-2012 04:26 PM #16
      Quote Originally Posted by LooseNuts View Post
      most everyone leaves the rear torsion bars in. set the pan to the lowest ride height you want when the bags are empty. then run the bag set up to rotate them downwards "which raises the car" when airing up.
      true. plus it gives you a suspension that's functioning somewhat like stock in the process.

      Quote Originally Posted by Hackintosh View Post
      Understood. Im still getting mixed answers about the front tortion bar. Some say they put a solid bar in place of the tortion bar and some say they took it completely out. So what's best for the set up I was trying to make work.?
      generally i've come across people removing the torsions and running a solid bar stock when they are running a dual air bag beam. however that's a bunch of work to make a dual bag front beam work. the single setup is much easier and cheaper

    17. Member JDII's Avatar
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      09-11-2012 04:42 PM #17
      I had a brain fart. what if you left the front torsion stacks in. they are locked in place by the center mounting bolt in the tubes. when you put in adjusters you split the beam and put them in so they will let the torsion stacks rotate to the desired height and then lock them back in place. my fart is this, could you not rig the center locking like an adjuster so it will rotate free when being aired up or down then use some sort of air lock to lock them back in place to have a stock ride. only use a bag to air up and down?
      Smile it will get Worse!!

    18. Member LooseNuts's Avatar
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      09-11-2012 04:55 PM #18
      use the monroe air shocks in the front.

      remove the torsions add drop spindles and add in a solid rod trough and run the shocks

      monroe air shock thread. go through this
      http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/vie...shocks&start=0

      through bolt set up for up front after torsions are removed. note the air shocks also
      J
      Quote Originally Posted by WideFive
      If you have to ask if it's a good trade... then it isn't a good trade.
      Quote Originally Posted by Schell R32
      ACW's aren't a watercooled APPLIANCE,it's a classic air cooled pile that takes money,patience and attitude to own it.
      http://www.facebook.com/VWLoosenuts?sk=wall www.cultwagen.com.

    19. Member
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      09-11-2012 07:30 PM #19
      Thanks for the link I came accross that thred lastnight but didn't have muh time to read it all

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      09-22-2012 01:04 AM #20
      So I decided to go with bags on the back and just make my own brackets. I already have the tank and pump so all I really need are the bags, fittings , and air line. Where would be the place to look for those maybe individualized. Thanks


      ...
      Last edited by Hackintosh; 09-22-2012 at 01:16 AM.

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      09-23-2012 09:30 PM #21
      you also need valves. and don't be a cheap skate when it comes to fittings. last thing you want is a crap home depot fitting blowing under pressure and you lay out at highway speeds. and in making your own brackets make sure nothing is anywhere near your bag that could potentially rub through it...

      what I'm saying is don't buy cheap stuff, it's your life when it fails
      -Maryland Nick-
      -DCI East-

      static is for laundry.

    22. Member
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      09-23-2012 11:39 PM #22
      understood where is a good web site for fittings and also should i go with manual valves or electric ones

      i found a guy selling some air lift bags and hes asking $50 a pair, he says they only have 2K miles on both sets does that sound good our no ?

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      09-24-2012 08:55 AM #23
      suicidedoors.com, guagemagazine.com I got most of my fittings from them. I like electric valves, but manual valves are cheaper.
      -Maryland Nick-
      -DCI East-

      static is for laundry.

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      10-13-2012 02:06 PM #24
      ok so i know i need thru rods for the front end but do i need any for the rear or do i take out the torsion bar in the rear and let the air bags do all the work?

    25. Member Jade Wombat's Avatar
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      10-16-2012 09:29 AM #25
      Quote Originally Posted by Hackintosh View Post
      ok so i know i need thru rods for the front end but do i need any for the rear or do i take out the torsion bar in the rear and let the air bags do all the work?
      Either one. It depends on how low you're going and where your mounting points for the rear bags/brackets are. You can re-index the torsion bars lower so they support some of the load, do a search on how-to, blah, blah...

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