Previously known as Son of a B...5er!
But why remove the AC and HEAT when you live in NY?
I have an appbiz lightweight (but not RS) carpet kit at home waiting for me to sack up and attempt it. You are a brave soul.
Have you driven a 964 C2? Or a 993 C2? Curious to get your take on C2 v C4 real world road manners differences.
one caveat: Do those oversized wheels change how the car drives? For instance, I find front wheels wider than 6" to compromise steering feel on older 911s.
Heat was deleted because heat exchangers scare the s*** out of me, if you have an exhaust leak its going right into the cabin. Plus due to my current living situation I rarely drive it.
Yea the doors and carpet are appbiz, Ill be honest I had a bigger problem with bob@appbiz then I did with installing the kit.
Ive not driven a 964 c2, so while I wish it was a c2 I dont REALLY know what im missing
The only problem with larger fronts is I hit fender well, so I need to get steering stops eventually.
Ironically I sold my ruckus project to make this thing happen.
http://www.fibrenew.com/ you check them out? my seats were too far gone with cracking, but when the guy came to give me a quote he said tears were the easiest thing to repair.
Did I miss where you did the flocking yourself or was that sent out? If you did, how tough is that and what's involved? It looks great!
I had NO idea that the second distributor was belt driven. They sure didn't do that on the Type 547 4 cam engine!
I'm curious... What made you decide on Brad Penn oil? I use it in my Beetles, as it is the old formula with ZDDP, but 911s can use synthetic since they have aluminum cylinders and don't need the heat carrying capability of oil nearly as much as a Bug or even a 911 with cast-iron cylinders. They did have cast iron in the 911T in the early '70s. (No, "T" is not for "Turbo" in this case!)
Was this a recommendation from a forum/individual, do you not like synthetics or is it something else? Sorry, I'm just being nosy.
Originally Posted by Boyz in da Park
I know this grunt work on a 911 oh too well. I had (now belongs to my dad) a 1988 930 euro with only 21,000 miles on her even with the low miles little things needed fixing. After spending a ton of money to get her near perfect my pop bought her from me, and is still enjoying her now. I don't blame you for wanting to do the valve job yourself that's a $1,700 job. Good luck and nice car
It's ok if you disagree with me, I can't force you to be right.
2010 JSW TDI
2011 CC R-line
2012 Beetle turbo
I bought a donjer flocking kit, really simple... apply adhesive then apply flocking. Its really simple although a part of me wishes I paid a professional to electrostatically charge the flocking to everything. But it came out alright.
I had used brad penn in previous cars, and after doing a bit of research the ZDDP content is recommended on several porsche forums. However I've actually since changed to VR1 20 50w as its about 1/4th the price.
I ordered some spacers yesterday and they actually already came today. Was able to test fit the rear wheel while there was still some daylight. Crappy 3GS photo, my camera was at home.
285/30s on there now, so my 265/35's should be a little taller and fill the fender gap a lot nicer.
Also tomorrow I'll start pulling the hubs for extended stud installation.
I have been talking with the wife for 2 years and I finally have the go ahead for the search. I have 18 months to find the right 911 with $20k to spend. Best part it could be any body. I would hope to find a 930t but those are dreams. I am in to read the build. Good luck my friend. The car looks great.
Last edited by URSledgehammer; 09-12-2012 at 09:56 AM.
Nice build! Porsche cred is built through blood, sweat, tears, and some straight cashola... emphasis on the first few. After a bunch of 944's, a 951, and the 986S I am almost ready for something new. For me it means 964 or 365. I fear it is the latter.
There truly is no substitute...
Im very familiar with Porsche heat exchangers.
It's not as dangerous as you think.
The reason behind rotating the gauges was so the needles would all be pointing in a generally unified direction during typical scenarios during the race. Driver's would quickly glance down and note the gauges all pointing about the same way and know they were O.K.
This was particularly important relating to the engine vitals (oil temp/pressure, water temp, voltage, fuel, ect.)