Recommended motor/trans mounts for mk2?

[TheGreenspanator]

Pretty sure I just destroyed another (stock) trans mount in my 86. Warmed over ABA/JH combo. The car mostly sees track days, a 3 mile commute to my work on nice days, and the occasional autocross, so I'm not TOO concerned about vibration (although I do sometimes drive it to the track rather than trailer).

I'm just wondering what everyone else is using- I was thinking about the solid front mount, but for the trans mount I wasn't sure if the regular old G60 upgrade (for a whopping $20) would do the trick, or if I should step up to the poly (delrin maybe overkill?) Basically my husband is tired of replacing them () and I'd like something that will improve the performance but more importantly, last for a reasonable amount of time.

[chois]

I have been using all stock stuff in my ITB car, and never broke one. Any chance that something is misaligned, or that you are being especially harsh with launches or gear changes? Moving to the stiffer stock mounts (from a diesel?) will reduce the deflection and wear. I would not go solid, even on my race car. It is beneficial to isolate drive train vibration from the rest of the chassis, to keep things from vibrating loose, and limit fatigue loading of mounting points.

Recent rules changes have me looking at making something lighter an stiffer, but there is a lot in front of that item on the list.

[TheGreenspanator]

I don't know, I'm not a hamfist or anything This one has 3 track events and 2 autocrosses on it; the one before lasted a couple years of autocross. I've just been led to believe they are a weak point that don't stand up to much abuse, and if I toasted this one already, I thought the poly might be a good upgrade.. Just wanted to see what other people were doing before spending money on the "wrong" things.

[flyinglizard]

I use the horizontal bolt ,style of front mount, not the pancake style. Also , you can not use one solid mount, it will break as the others keep moving. All plastic works fine, but wil wear out in a year or two.
I add a tie chain under the mount to the starter bolt, from the cross member. You can also /or push a long bolt through the holes in the rubber. Long enough to torque the metal parts of the mount when it moves too far.

[TheGreenspanator]

OK, one more potentially stupid question - my car is a 1986, so it has the early hydro front mount. I've now found poly or heavier duty mounts for the rear and trans, but is there anything better non-solid I can replace the front with?

[chois]

If your car is a 1986 it came with the "spool" style front mount with a horizontal bolt through it that Mike referenced above. A lot of folks downgraded to the later part though.

I suggest doing some looking around at aftermarket front mounts that are firm, but not solid, and looking for diesel rear mounts. I have also heard that the G60 trans mounts are beefier, but do not know that for sure.

I have never seen that trans mount fail personally...

[flyinglizard]

The front mounts fail enough to bother you.


The side mounts can fail and allow the engine to move laterally, breaking axles. I also stuff the pass side mount, for the race cars, so that it moves less.

[CHETVW007]

I use a solid stock rear mount. A g60 tranny mount. And a powerflex insert in an early style front mount...but the best upgrade was the Poweflex front subframe inserts. Its a great setup And has seen many track days.

[TheGreenspanator]

OK, wasn't the trans mount but the front. I have the early-style bonded cylinder one, and it's moving like the rubber is torn- where the hell do you guys find replacement inserts/mounts/anything for the early ones? All I can find, either OEM-style or aftermarket, is the later version Trying to get this done for Pocono next week.

[flyinglizard]

Push a long bolt through the mount so that it contacts the metal as it moves.
Than run a short chain from the starter bolt to the lower crossmember bolt.

Than ,buy my book.
MM