ASR light problem!!!

[GLIfssd]

So I'm 100% clueless as of now as to what could be going wrong.. Been stuck trying to figure it out all weekend and nothing. For the record my car has been running pretty good for awhile now, no problems or anything. It's a 2004 Jetta GLI 1.8t

I was driving last Friday and accelerated and it hit redline (which has happened before) and I went back down to normal RPMs but I noticed the ASR light was on on my dash. The shifting was super rough after it went on and absolutely 0 boost. I know ASR basically puts your car into "limp mode" and it's easily fixable by pushing the button on your dash by the hazard lights BUT when I push the button the light behind the button doesnt even come on. As if there was a short or something.

So now, 2 days later, car still has the ASR light on and the button still doesnt work. I drove it around the block yesterday and it still shifts hard and no boost. I have no idea what the problem could be!! I cleaned the TB, cleaned out all the valves and checked for cracked hoses and found nothing.

Any help or 2 cents would be greatly appreciated! Thanks in advance

[Justin_Eshelman]

Could be a problem with your MAF. Trying unplugging and cleaning it and see how that goes

[GLIfssd]

Just cleaned it out and turned the car on for the first time today and it'll start and almost die but struggle to stay on and the engine sounds like it's gasping for air/farting!

[BRANT#2766]

yea sounds like your MAF, more than likely when u tried cleaning it you made it worse... dont feel to bad i did the same ****. try running it with it unplugged, should run pretty good without it if thats ur problem. but dont be getting carried away until u get a new MAF. if may end up running lean without it, and u could do some serious work to your pistons....

[BRANT#2766]

yea sounds like your MAF, more than likely when u tried cleaning it you made it worse... dont feel to bad i did the same ****. try running it with it unplugged, should run pretty good without it if thats ur problem. but dont be getting carried away until u get a new MAF. if may end up running lean without it, and u could do some serious work to your pistons....

These MAFs are very sensitive and if your running a K&N airfilter take it off and junk it, or any other oiled airfilter for that matter.

[Jazzydub]

Get it scanned before you throw money at it.

[GLIfssd]

I started the car without the MAF and it ran just like it did with it on. A buddy of mine told me I should have the codes cleared cause it could be stuck in limp mode. Clearing it would put it back to normal. Would that work?

[Jazzydub]

It might but probably not. It would be good to scan it, copy codes, clear codes, and see what/if any come back.

[SB_GLI]

I started the car without the MAF and it ran just like it did with it on. A buddy of mine told me I should have the codes cleared cause it could be stuck in limp mode. Clearing it would put it back to normal. Would that work?

Codes are not to clear, but rather to help tell you what the problem is.

[GLIfssd]

A buddy of mine is going to scan it for me tomorrow and hopefully bring light to this problem! I tried disconnecting the battery for 20 minutes to see if that would reset the system, it's started fine and the ASR light took about a minute to pop back up. The ESP button still isn't turning on or lighting up so I'm guessing it's a short or something?

[Jazzydub]

Not a short. There is an issue that is turning the ASR off. That's why the button does nothing.

[GLIfssd]

UPDATE
I got it scanned by a buddy of mine and the code p0102 showed up which is for the MAF. I turned the car on and no ASR/CEL then I revved it, heard the turbo spool up then limp mode.. And went back to the ASR light. Could this really be because of a fault MAF sensor?

[STOICH]

If it doesn't act differently with the MAF sensor disconnected, I'd be more inclined to say it's a wiring issue. Check for cracks/breaks in the MAF sensor wires.

[GLIfssd]

If it doesn't act differently with the MAF sensor disconnected, I'd be more inclined to say it's a wiring issue. Check for cracks/breaks in the MAF sensor wires.

Checked the harness and the wires and didn't really find anything cut or broken. I'm thinking it might actually be a faulty MAF.

Also, I don't know if it matters but I've had my car since 05 and it has about 70k miles and never had to change the sensor before. I don't know if it's common for people to change them but I still have a stock one on.

[Tracycoope]

Trying unplugging and cleaning it and see how that goes [img]http://www.**********/6d.jpg[/img][img]http://www.**********/d.jpg[/img]

[SB_GLI]

If cleaning doesn't work, do you have a buddy that you can try their MAF before you splurge on a new one?

[STOICH]

You're going to get a Pcode for the MAF because you unplugged it and tried to run it unplugged. That doesn't mean the MAF is bad.

Clear your codes, plug the MAF back in.

I'm beginning to think you have something going on with that auto trans (it is auto, correct?). Rough shifting, ASR light, no load...

How many miles on the car?

[GLIfssd]

You're going to get a Pcode for the MAF because you unplugged it and tried to run it unplugged. That doesn't mean the MAF is bad.

Clear your codes, plug the MAF back in.

I'm beginning to think you have something going on with that auto trans (it is auto, correct?). Rough shifting, ASR light, no load...

How many miles on the car?

We ran it unplugged and plugged in and got the same code both times. Cleared them both times and still got the same code. The car has about 75k miles on it and yes it's automatic.

[STOICH]

Did you clear the codes between unplugged and plugged in? The code will be stored, so plugging the sensor back in won't make it go away regardless.

[GLIfssd]

Yes we cleared the codes after unplugging and rescanning it.

Also, I've been doing research on it a little more and looking at the problem under the hood and today I noticed my hose coming from my engine block (the hose connecting to the elbow joint under the intake manifold?) had a fat slice in it and you can see some oil residue. Could this be throwing the code for my MAF? Sorry if it's a stupid question but I'm trying anything right about now!

[STOICH]

I believe you are talking about the crank case vent? The hose runs up and Ys into the hose coming off the valve cover?

If so, it very well could. Get it fixed up and find out

[GLIfssd]

Yeah, that hose. HOPEFULLY that's what the problem is, either way I got to replace it! Thanks!

[BRANT#2766]

if its the crank case hose thats not gonna cause that problem, thats just gonna make a mess... you need to check your inlet hose to the turbo, and start looking for vacuum or boost leaks. when u clear it and does boost, is it normal, lagging, hesitant? im think inlet hose though.

[GLIfssd]

When we cleared the code I revved it and it boosted normal but as soon as the RPMs went back down the light came back on.

[STOICH]

If a recirculating PCV setup has a leak somewhere in route, it can skew with air readings. PCV is basically a diverted, but controlled (by the MAF), leak. Open that to atmosphere and readings from sensors can be thrown off.

Either way, fix the hose. It may or may not help with the issue at hand.

[GLIfssd]

I ordered the eurojet hose kit the other day so hopefully it'll fix it! If not I'm **** out of ideas ha

[BRANT#2766]

Well that's a good mod anyways lol, so atleast if that doesn't fix it it's not a complete waste. Did the kit come with the inlet hose? I know most don't come with it or a pancake pipe delete. I don't think so anyways.

[mattyrankin9]

you probably have an air leak. did you even check your intake hoses? one of your clips prob let go when you were revving the piss out of it.

[GLIfssd]

I checked some of the hoses and it looked ok. Didn't see any clips though?

[BRANT#2766]

I checked some of the hoses and it looked ok. Didn't see any clips though?

So still having the same problem?

[GLIfssd]

Yeah, I put the eurojet pcv kit on and still does the same thing. After looking through the car top to bottom for loose hoses and clips I think I'm guna go with the MAF. I don't know what else it could be.

[BRANT#2766]

If it was your MAF I would think it would have ran ok with it unplugged. Mine did when my MAF went bad, but different circumstances changes things I guess. When u said u ordered the hose kit I thought u meant boost hoses. The PVC hoses aren't gonna make it run bad, not in my experience anyways. They just make a mess of yor engine bay, well the crank case vent hose anyways. If its not the MAF, u need to go over your boost hoses with a fine tooth comb.

[GLIfssd]

Well I had to get the PCV hose kit anyways because I had a huge slice in the Y connector. Also, awhile back my hose coming off my diverter valve came loose and made my engine run this exact same way. I checked my DV and it seems fine. Maybe I'll have to look closer at the hoses.

[STOICH]

If it didn't run better without the airflow sensor plugged in, the MAF isn't your problem. Did you do this test?

You should also check your wheel speed sensor wiring and sensor if you haven't already. Pressure test your engine to eliminate possible air leaks.

[ninjapants]

Pressure test, run some vag-com logs, and I'm surprised no one has suggested this... check the MAP sensor... again MAP not MAF.