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Thread: Minor Rust Problem

  1. Semi-n00b
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    09-17-2012 10:14 PM #1
    About three days after installing a TDI in my 81 rabbit, my fuel tank started leaking. When I went to look and see what was leaking I discovered the floor has come apart from the body from the seat mounts back. When I removed the carpet and dash I also found that the passenger side door pillar has mostly rusted away. Not sure what the best plan of action is yet as I can't afford another car right now. So if anyone has the lower right half of a 4 door rabbit let me know. I will try to post photos soon. One more thing anyone contemplating a TDI swap I would recommend it, it was a blast before I had to tear it apart.

  2. Member
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    81 rabbit diesel, 99.5 jetta TDI
    09-17-2012 10:25 PM #2
    Buy welder, grinder, good pair of gloves and get to work...
    If it ain't diesel, get outta my way.

  3. Member rabbitnothopper's Avatar
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    09-17-2012 11:53 PM #3
    pictures of said rust and splitting in half

    would be more entertaining if you said

    "then one day while driving on the highway my rear end just fell off"

  4. Semi-n00b
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    09-18-2012 10:09 PM #4
    [IMG]Photobucket[/IMG]

    [IMG]Photobucket[/IMG]

    In the first photo I can see the tire through the hole. The door drops about two inches when it is opened. The passenger floor is only held in by the brace by the door pillar.
    I have all of the tools to do it just trying to plan out the best method.
    Last edited by ford500; 09-18-2012 at 10:14 PM.

  5. Member
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    81 rabbit diesel, 99.5 jetta TDI
    09-18-2012 10:48 PM #5
    Thats almost as bad as the one I repaired. Note: remove all glue prior to welding or grinding because it is nasty. Just buy some sheet metal and get tacking, cut out as much rust as possible, soundd like for the door you may have to tack some support in place first, then button up.
    If it ain't diesel, get outta my way.

  6. Member
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    81 rabbit diesel, 99.5 jetta TDI
    09-18-2012 10:49 PM #6
    Probably tack up the rear first, them you should remove the fuel tank, because right now you fuel tank straps are holdiing your floor together. should weld on both sides of it.
    If it ain't diesel, get outta my way.

  7. Semi-n00b
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    09-18-2012 11:07 PM #7
    Quote Originally Posted by worldwide73 View Post
    Probably tack up the rear first, them you should remove the fuel tank, because right now you fuel tank straps are holdiing your floor together. should weld on both sides of it.
    Actually the straps fell off and it looks like the brake and fuel lines are holding it up. The mounts for the rear axle are in tough shape so more fun there.

  8. Member
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    81 rabbit diesel, 99.5 jetta TDI
    09-18-2012 11:12 PM #8
    ouch, my rear axle mounts were okay, I had to mend one side just a tiny bit. Its gonna be a ton of work!! If I had to do it all over again, I would put the car on a rotisserie for sure. But I will say the end result is rewarding
    If it ain't diesel, get outta my way.

  9. Member rabbitnothopper's Avatar
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    09-19-2012 02:02 AM #9
    why not buy a less rusty shell and start over?
    thats too much cutting.....

    can be done

    have fun and post progress pics!

  10. Member Mtl-Marc's Avatar
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    09-20-2012 09:14 AM #10
    Quote Originally Posted by rabbitnothopper View Post
    why not buy a less rusty shell and start over?
    thats too much cutting.....

    can be done

    have fun and post progress pics!
    This.
    Last edited by Mtl-Marc; Today at 23:59 PM.

    Sent using smoke signals.

    Quote Originally Posted by Mk1Madness
    Back when making your car faster and better handling was the big thing.

  11. Member Jacob Matthew's Avatar
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    09-20-2012 09:25 AM #11
    Yikes. I'm not sure that's worth the effort that I'd imagine it would take to fix it.

    You probably are best off finding the cleanest shell you can and swapping everything over.
    Grime

  12. Member Maggiolone's Avatar
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    09-20-2012 03:21 PM #12
    Save it

  13. Member 86coupeman's Avatar
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    09-20-2012 04:41 PM #13
    Quote Originally Posted by Jacob Matthew View Post
    Yikes. I'm not sure that's worth the effort that I'd imagine it would take to fix it.

    You probably are best off finding the cleanest shell you can and swapping everything over.
    That's cheating!

    Just keep repairing the rust until you accidently rip the bottom of the car off on an unlabeled raised manhole cover!
    CX500, 69 single cab for sale!

  14. Member BerryB's Avatar
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    09-20-2012 05:43 PM #14


    Literally my face when i saw the second photo.

    I wish you strong hands for all the welding that is in your future

  15. Semi-n00b
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    09-20-2012 10:58 PM #15
    I would love to by a new shell but that is not going to happen any time soon with my finances. This weekend I am removing the rear axle to asses the mounts and get the fuel tank out. Probably cut most of the passenger floor out too. I plan on posting photos of the engine swap soon as that worked out pretty well.

  16. 09-23-2012 11:39 PM #16
    I have driven that car... so hard that the rear view mirror broke off

    I gotta say I was expecting worse from how the car just looked overall. I gotta come up and see it in person. I love doing floors and general sheet metal work. I am surprised you didn't post up the pictures of the engine swap first... and didn't tell them where you got the engine from and how many "miles" are on it.

  17. Member foxygrandpa's Avatar
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    09-23-2012 11:57 PM #17
    Quote Originally Posted by BerryB View Post


    Literally my face when i saw the second photo.

    I wish you strong hands for all the welding that is in your future
    I laughed so hard when I scrolled down and saw this.

    And more pictures without shadows and such would probably be better so everyone can see what you're working with. The new shell idea would be ideal but I hear ya on the finances part. Not everyone's pockets are fat and mine included.

    http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...appy-paint-job

    This thread might offer some help. I couldn't believe what he fixed/bandaged and it was much worse than yours. So there is hope but it will take time and it's worth fixing. I'll quit complaining about mine now

  18. Semi-n00b
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    10-07-2012 10:15 PM #18
    Well I thought I would post an update. I replaced the passenger rocker panel, the front half of the passenger floor , and about half of the rear passenger floor. Had to remove the front seat support to replace the metal underneath. Now on to the driver's side.
    Photobucket

    Photobucket

    Photobucket

    Photobucket

    Photobucket

    The bucket is what was left of the passenger floor after removal. The last photo is the drivers floor which is in much better shape so I think I can get away with just patching it.

  19. Member rabbitnothopper's Avatar
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    10-07-2012 10:30 PM #19
    yeah man thats pretty good

    doesnt matter if its not form fit to factory standards
    its fixed
    make sure you rust treat and POR-15 over all of that

    looks good to me bro

    great job

  20. Member 86coupeman's Avatar
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    cars what cars?
    10-08-2012 06:47 PM #20
    Totally
    Most importantly just keep it on the road and safe.
    CX500, 69 single cab for sale!

  21. Member foxygrandpa's Avatar
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    10-08-2012 07:42 PM #21
    Great work, glad to see you were able to fix it!

  22. Semi-n00b
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    10-08-2012 10:54 PM #22
    Figured I could post a few pictures of the engine swap. The transmission was repaired at some point as the bearing support has been welded and there is evidence of metal floating around in the bell housing. The engine is an ALH that came from an engine research facility that has very few hours on it. The price was very very low and the computer was setup from VW with no security so just hooked up power and was ready to go. I was able to get rid of the new fuse block and use the old solenoid wire from the 1.6L to power the relay for engine power.

    Photobucket

    Photobucket

    Photobucket

    Photobucket

    Photobucket


    The exhaust gasket was from the old engine and someone had installed it backwards which explained why the car was fairly loud. The Cadillac is a 63 and is a another future project.

  23. Member rabbitnothopper's Avatar
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    10-09-2012 01:10 AM #23
    wow nice engine

    sounds like a good swap


    this is concerning of course....good idea but...the seal is supposed to seal the shaft, not the flange

  24. Semi-n00b
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    10-09-2012 10:05 PM #24
    this is concerning of course....good idea but...the seal is supposed to seal the shaft, not the flange
    That is how it came out of the car and it didn't leak so I didn't mess with it. I was more concerned with why it was welded and how fifty horsepower caused it to break in the first place.

  25. Member 8v-of-fury's Avatar
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    10-09-2012 10:25 PM #25
    Quote Originally Posted by ford500 View Post
    That is how it came out of the car and it didn't leak so I didn't mess with it. I was more concerned with why it was welded and how fifty horsepower caused it to break in the first place.
    Clutch disk probably flew apart and took a chunk out of the case. It was most certainly not a power related failure.

  26. Semi-n00b
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    10-13-2012 03:28 AM #26
    It still had the original fly wheel which would have contained the clutch if that had happened. I think the bearing must have exploded which was why the case was welded. Finally got the fender off.

    Photobucket

    Photobucket

    Explains why it seemed the door was falling off when it was opened. Any one in Minnesota have an extra fender laying around?

  27. 10-13-2012 07:32 PM #27
    Nice... only a little bit of rust. What are you driving to work right now?

  28. Semi-n00b
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    12-15-2012 01:40 AM #28
    Well finished all of the metal work a few months ago. Been driving it daily and with that TDI it has been a lot of fun. Only issue so far has been a hose clamp failing on an intake hose. The door works a lot better and the passenger side stays pretty dry now.

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