My suggestion, ditch the digi. You have no way to know what the ECU "sees". I know that is not what you were looking for, but that is about the best I can do for digi. Although I have set the timing on a couple of digi's.
#1
Car is a 86 rocco with aba/jh swap running digi2. Car has a older jh head on it with the 22mm injector holes, 3 pin throttle body with 2 pins grounded out. No pcv valve it's just plumbed into the air box lid from the v/c. It's how I bought it.
The problem im having is I can't get the car to idle at under 1800rpm with both the isv and 02 sensor hooked up. I have no vacuum leaks that I can hear or see, I cleaned all the grounds I could find. I don't see any broken wires. The car will idle fine with just the 02 but feels like it's not breathing as it should, with the isv plugged in and no 02 it will feel like it is missing but will hold 1krpm no problem. The afm is a reman unit I bought, the cts is new, T/B switchs test good also. I have a new napa brand isv I bought but that just makes the car idle like crazy for some reason. Any guesses ?
Im kind of thinking that I should replace the whole engine harness. I do have a spare ecu but haven't swapped it yet. Tried different afm's I had here and they all made the car run ****ty.
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CoolWater VAG Club D.H.S Dub Historical Society 1620Dubs
the truth hides in plain sight if you know what to look for
#2
My suggestion, ditch the digi. You have no way to know what the ECU "sees". I know that is not what you were looking for, but that is about the best I can do for digi. Although I have set the timing on a couple of digi's.
Tradition is the art of making the same mistake repeatedly, on purpose.
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#3
well I did buy a aba 0bd1 swap for the car but the engine I bought was ****, so all I have is just the engine harness and ecu, besides I have no room or place to do it myself and am having a hard time finding a local guy I can pay to do it for me at his house or on the side.
I did go check my f/p relay and the car runs with out it, seems like whoever did the swap hard wired the f/p to the key. Car idles high with the cts unplugged but no misses or ruff running
CoolWater VAG Club D.H.S Dub Historical Society 1620Dubs
the truth hides in plain sight if you know what to look for
#4
At this point I would suggest using something to slowly pinch shut one of the rubber hoses for the ISV. Maybe you have the tool to do this but if not you can use a pair of pliers, protect the hose by using some cardboard or thin wood strips on the jaws. If this brings down the idle then for whatever reason, can't say now, the ISV is not working right. You have checked to be sure the throttle blades are not open too far, primary and secondary, or the screw is not turned in too far, right?
#5
That may not be the case, as with CIS the car will die the instant the pump is shut off, but that will not happen with EFI as they run at lower pressures. It generally takes nearly a minute for my idling car to run out of fuel pressure and stall when I pull my FP fuse now that I am on MS. (I just did that very thing, as I will be replacing my FP and wanted to bleed off the system pressure.)
Tradition is the art of making the same mistake repeatedly, on purpose.
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#6
I did check that because when I got the car the intake boot slipped off so while I was putting it back on, I checked the butterflies they seem to be shut all the way,clean, and new gaskets. But looks like someone buggered the top link I guess you would call it on the throttle body (top looking down on the body is nut-washer link with sping then base)if that makes sense and po adapted a three pin switch setup too the car instead of the typical digi2 pin. Kinda looks like scirocco 8v tb and switches with digi linkage where the accel cable attaches.
I'll try blocking off the hoses the way you said, I do have a brand new nappa isv I bought $70 vs $200 plus for a new bosch unit, but the idle stays at 2k rpm with it hooked up no matter what I do prob just nappa crap part.
I know what you are saying but, I walked out to the car and grabbed a jumper I made out the glove box (after many mk1's and mk2's I now make one for each car and keep it in the glove, suck's being stuck over a cheap relay lol) replaced the relay with it after a few minutes I pulled the jumper to see what would happen and the car ran for a few minutes. I shut it off via the key.
I've never heard the pump prime like all my other older vw's, I popped off the rain tray cover
and saw that off the ecu harness there is a 40amp 5pin relay with a replaceable 25 watt fuse when I pulled the fuse the car shut off.![]()
CoolWater VAG Club D.H.S Dub Historical Society 1620Dubs
the truth hides in plain sight if you know what to look for
#7
Could you take some time an explain these two things real good. I'm getting some pictures in my head but need them to become clear and narrowed down to the right ones. About the linkage and the switches and anything else that relates to the throttle bodies, switches and the ISV too if anything there has been altered. Go into as much detail as you can, regardless of how much has to be read when its posted.
#8
here's what im working with, that lever im pointing too doesnt look right
now here is the t/b switch hook up
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CoolWater VAG Club D.H.S Dub Historical Society 1620Dubs
the truth hides in plain sight if you know what to look for