16V coolant flow for endurance racer

[zigm89]

I'd like to simplify the piping and maximize the cooling efficiency of our 16V Chump/Lemons endurance racer.

We struggle to keep it cool when really pushing hard now that it's been turbocharged.... Checking the radiator 'cool side outlet' with a IR gun shows that it is NOT heat-soaked and still has the ability to shed more heat. It's almost like the engine & water pump are not pushing as much hot fluid through the radiator as needed. Water pump is a metal impeller German unit; 160F thermostat is tested good.

It seems like a large amount of 'hot' coolant is routed back to the the water pump inlet (top two ports) with the factory setup - a wasted cooling opportunity. I'd like to send 98% of hot coolant directly to the radiator from the front engine coolant port, leaving only a minimal return of hot coolant circulating to the water pump inlet to operate the thermostat.

Can the water port on the side of the head be safely blocked off with a plate? Do the end 2 cyls need that coolant flow there? Will a temp gauge mounted there still be accurate if the port is blocked of?

Thanks for any thoughts. Proven experience with this topic would be especially appreciated.

[flyinglizard]

I use a "blocking Plug" in the bypass hose. It consist of a freeze plug that slips into the hose and is clamped near the upper head port. Drill one or two 1/8 holes in it so that you may bleed it .

On my Boosted car I dont use a T stat. just the hose block. I also have had no issues using the head outlet for the temp sender. I just tap the outlet for the sender and screw it in. It is pretty common. My book covers most of this and lots more.
I have come up with a nice cheap oil pressure" accusump" style tank.
Pics can be found on my site under" Cheaps" in the phot section along with my cars./
MM