90 g60 vrt intercooler question?

[Jon Coulson]

Just picked up my 90 g60 vrt yesterday it's non intercooled but I/c and piping came with it not installed. I can't for the life of me figure out the plumbing on this thing any help would be great. I wanna crank the boost up but am scared being non I/c. I'm currently on 9psi.

[Jon Coulson]

Top

[skaterazn]

add water meth if you're too lazy to figure out plumbing.

here's mine. It's a hacked up mess until I change it later on but I'm happy with it for now. runs normally 18-26 psi

[Noobercorn]

You can run more boost safely with high octane and no IC.

Or

You can post pix of the plumbing you HAVE IN HAND and get the added security after we all see it and tell you how to plumb it.

OR

You can do what I did: delete AC, have custom pipes made, have a scoop feeding it from the grill, hide the IC behind the bumper, paint it black with radiator paint, run a snowperformance stage 2 meth (no water) setup, and have a stock looking car and all the plus's at 26 psi in the summer heat and never have an issue.

Also: I'd bet a million bucks you have a .63 A/R hotside, get RID OF IT! You will kill your trans at 15+ psi!!!!!! Call Clay at CTS Turbo, order the .82 hot side first IMO. And before installing, get it ceramic-coated (or Jet Hot, your choice. 1/2 dozen of one, 6 of another)

You will gain:

Traction in all gears
Less "shock" on trans when spooling
Higher power with same boost
Smoother boost curve
Better "passing power" (when remaining in same gear on freeway)

And did I mention less shock on trans? Ya, I did, twice now.


A little story for you;

The VERY FIRST TIME I accelerated in 3rd gear, (from 2,000 rpm's to the moment of destroying my trans) was the VERY FIRST time I hit the gas with higher boost than 14/15psi.

The FIRST TIME!

Protect your car; upgrade hotside, intercool it, save for meth, and then run 26 psi all day, in 100* weather and NEVER have an issue.

[Jon Coulson]

You can run more boost safely with high octane and no IC.

Or

You can post pix of the plumbing you HAVE IN HAND and get the added security after we all see it and tell you how to plumb it.

OR

You can do what I did: delete AC, have custom pipes made, have a scoop feeding it from the grill, hide the IC behind the bumper, paint it black with radiator paint, run a snowperformance stage 2 meth (no water) setup, and have a stock looking car and all the plus's at 26 psi in the summer heat and never have an issue.

Also: I'd bet a million bucks you have a .63 A/R hotside, get RID OF IT! You will kill your trans at 15+ psi!!!!!! Call Clay at CTS Turbo, order the .82 hot side first IMO. And before installing, get it ceramic-coated (or Jet Hot, your choice. 1/2 dozen of one, 6 of another)

You will gain:

Traction in all gears
Less "shock" on trans when spooling
Higher power with same boost
Smoother boost curve
Better "passing power" (when remaining in same gear on freeway)

And did I mention less shock on trans? Ya, I did, twice now.


A little story for you;

The VERY FIRST TIME I accelerated in 3rd gear, (from 2,000 rpm's to the moment of destroying my trans) was the VERY FIRST time I hit the gas with higher boost than 14/15psi.

The FIRST TIME!

Protect your car; upgrade hotside, intercool it, save for meth, and then run 26 psi all day, in 100* weather and NEVER have an issue.

You are correct on the .63

[vdubCorrado]

if i can afford to go awic i plan to go just like my friend's setup... piping is all new and shiny now but gist is all the same... clean

[dasbeast3.0]

Piping goes from turbo outlet through i/c to throttle body, its not that hard to figure out. you prob have 30# setup w/ stock pump so if you run much past 15psi (300whp), you'll be investing in a new motor. leave it alone, pipe in the i/c and enjoy the capabilities of your current setup without spending more $.

[Noobercorn]

Piping goes from turbo outlet through i/c to throttle body, its not that hard to figure out. you prob have 36 lb injector setup w/ stock pump so if you run much past 15psi (300whp), you'll be investing in a new motor. leave it alone, pipe in the i/c and enjoy the capabilities of your current setup without spending more $.

Fixed, noob

[g60racer]

For all you know he may still have the stock injectors. NOOB back at you!
Not like he mentioned any of his specifics. Unless you're now a psychic in addition to your other amazing talents.

[Noobercorn]

For all you know he may still have the stock injectors. NOOB back at you!
Not like he mentioned any of his specifics. Unless you're now a psychic in addition to your other amazing talents.

As u already know, I am Indeed psychic, noob.

As for a "stage 1, NON INTERCOLED setup, yes; he could be in the stock 36#'rs, 30# if OBD2 swap was done)?but based on the brief post, he's likely at 36#

Call me out again, I dare ya!

[hubbell]

call me maybe

[Noobercorn]

call me maybe

I HATE that song!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

As for this thread, I got on lock son !

[Jon Coulson]

32# injectors c2 32# file obd2 12v pauter rods glyco bearings all arp hardware brand new aaa head ATP manifold with t3/t4 50 trim 2.5 dp with around 8k miles on build. Currently on 9psi po said he ran 20 psi in a MKIII Jetta before putting motor in the rado.

[Jon Coulson]

Also stock fuel pump.

[dasbeast3.0]

I never ran the stg1 setup so I don't know offhand what specific injectors it came with.. Fact is hes on the stg 1 software/fueling/ stock pump - like I said. 26psi will demolish the guys engine, so I dont think you have this thread on lock.. son.


OP,

If you want to make more than 300~ whp, you will need to upgrade your tune/ fueling, intercooler, and turbo. Your t3/t4 50 trim is too small and inefficient, it will throw a ton of heat after 15-20 psi (regardless of turbine housing) and heatsoak the small front mount instantly. You will pull timing and dog the car out after 1-2 runs, keep pushing it and you will ruin the engine. I highly suggest skipping the 42# setup and going straight to 630 Pro Maf, its smoother in boost and much more flexible than the 42# software (that is, if you plan to stay with a chip tune).

Invest $ in a proper awic setup, it is night and day difference. a/a is great also, but there's no room in the corrado for fitment or proper airflow without a ton of cutting/fab work.

Dont waste $ on a fancy ball bearing turbo, Spend $600~ on a rebuilt or new Holset hx40Pro. It will out flow, out spool and out live any Garret or Precision turbo. They are also rebuild-able.

Thats my advice..... or you can do what I said before, pipe in the i/c you have, run a safe 15psi n call it done.