following I am about to tackle this and would love to hear of any tips or issues you run into along the way
Proceed at your OWN RISK. I do not take any responsibility for your failure to be careful and/or safe when performing any tasks on or in your vehicle. This guide is only meant to assist people who need torque specifications, general step-by-step or want pics to help identify parts and where they are located.
Timing Belt Procedure is Five posts down or UP depending on your settings.
Tightening Torques (in vague order of removal):
x2 low pressure metal fuel line to intake manifold bolts (T30) - 5 Nm
x2 Alternator Bolts (13mm) - 23 Nm
coolant pipe next to accessory eyelit (10mm) - 5 Nm?
x3 serpentinte belt tensioner to accessory bracket (13mm) - 23 Nm
x2 replace - engine mount to frame bolts (16mm) - 40 Nm + 90 deg
x2 replace - engine mount to engine mount bracket bolts (18mm) - 60 Nm + 90 deg
x2 replace - engine mount to frame brace (little black bracket) bolts (13mm) - 20 Nm + 90 deg (I didn't replace these and I did'nt torque them to spec )
x2 replace - dog bone to transmission bolts (16mm) - 40 Nm + 90 deg
x3 - engine mount bracket to engine - 45 Nm
x2 - turbocharger pipe to engien (underneath crank pulley) (T30) - 8 Nm
replace - Crankshaft Pulley (Harmonic Balancer / Vibration Damper) Bolts (8mm allen) - 20 Nm + 90 deg
x7 Belt Cover Bolts (10mm and top 2 T30) - 8 Nm
timing belt tensioner Nut (13mm nut) - 25 Nm
Idler Roller to Cyl. Head Bolt (Top Roller 13mm) - 25 Nm
Idler Roller to Sealing Flange Bolt (Bottom Roller 12mm) - 35 Nm
replace - camshaft sprocket to camshaft bolt (16mm) - 50 Nm + 180 deg (when doing camshaft seal)
replace - Crankshaft Sprocket to Crankshaft Bolt (19mm 12pt) - 90 Nm + 90 deg (if replacing front crankshaft seal)
x2 intake plastic pipe mounting bolts (T30 and 10MM nut) - 5 Nm
coolant pipe to oil-cooler bolt (XZN/Triple Square) - 5 Nm
x3 waterpump bolts (10mm) and x2 thermostat housing bolts (10mm)- 15 Nm
coolant pipe to coolant thermostat housing bolt (T30) - 5 Nm
Nm to FT. LBS. Converter Site
Here's some initial pics
I tie-wrapped the fuel-lines to hold them away from the timingbelt area. The three fuel-lines are connected by the p/side frame rail. Use masking tape and number the lines so you know which connection they came off, be careful not to get any-dirt in the lines. You can tape over the outlets/inlets to ensure this. The main fuel-line is push-connect (push down and pull up on the insert and pull it out). The other two have a push-button on the side of them and are also a similar disconnect procedure). Also, the T30 underneath the Starship Enterprise holding the metal fuel-rail to the intake-manifold was fun to remove. I used a 1/4" T30 bit and low-profile ratchet. To finish removal I used a pair of Vise-grip channel locks on the screw to carefully turn it out the rest of the way since the bit and ratchet started backing off into the starship. I loosened the other T30 on the metal line in order to carefully (yes the metal line bends a little bit, don't force it) move it out of the way behind the upper engine cover connection to allow for me to hook up the engine brace to the accessory bracket eyelit:
Engine Brace: ($65.00 from Harbour Freight, lube the threaded rods with grease)
thermostat (two 10mm hex/5mm allen bolts hold it to the engine block, one t30 holds the metal line that runs the front of the engine which is also attached halfway back by a "hidden" triple-square). You have to the remove two triple-squares in the pipe location below the throttle body. One for the front metal line and one for the metal line that runs to the thermo-stat housing. The lower radiator hose runs up into the bottom of the thermo-stat housing with a quick connect. just unplug the temp sensor and pull the quick-connect clip out to its stop. Use a blunt ended instrument on the outer edge of the connect of similar width and lightly tap the end of the instrument until you see it start to move away from the housing. continue tapping until it can be easily pulled completely off. I used a 28" long flat-blade duralast screw-driver and a dead-blow. There was only one way it fit. behind the engine brace chain and at a angle. That way I had plenty of striking room. It you have trouble, make sure you have the clip pulled out to its stop and that you are tapping the quick-connect hose side and not the thermos-stat side. Clean the o-rings in the quick-connect and lube lightly with silicone grease, PTFE dry lube or coolant.
Engine-Mount and Engine Bracket all four bolts are stretch (Torque to Yield bolts). the two bolts that bolt the engine mount to the frame are (29.5 ft. lbs. plus 90 degrees or 1/4 turn). the two bolts that bolt the engine mount to the engine bracket are (44 ft. lbs plus 90 degrees or 1/4 turn). the three bolts that hold the engine mount bracket to the engine are (33 ft. lbs and no angle torque), but they are torqued in sequence from top left, top right and lastly bottom bolt. Also, the bolts that hold the crank pulley on are one-time use bolts and are (14.75 ft. lbs. + 90degrees). Lastly, camshaft bolt is one-time use and is (36.8 ft. lbs. + 180 deg or 1/2 a turn). There is also a coolant hose attached to a metal line that runs in front of the timing belt-cover. Rlease the spring clamp and also unbolt the metal line from the end of the intake next to the accessory bracket eyelit before attaching the engine brace to it. The hose was dam near glued to the metal line. I had to run my 90 degree pick (or a flat screw driver will do) all the way around the inside of it to release it from the metal line. Be careful not to rip the hose. Before attempting removal of the engine mount bracket undo the three bolts that hold the A/C lines to the body (TWO T30s). Some people suggest removing the 4 exhaust downpipe to turbocharger outlet bolts to aid in raising the engine (I did'nt do it and I didn't have any trouble either). I might suggest removing the two bolts that mount the exhaust to the subframe and see if that helps if you are having trouble getting the engine mount to engine bracket out).
Remove this metal turbocharger pipe (two quick-connects on each end and T30s holding it to the engine oil pan) be careful because OIL may come spilling out
Drained it from AUX-Waterpump lower hose connection and removed hose from lower quick-connect to radiator (spring-clamp to quick-connect). While you are positioned under the engine, go ahead and undo and remove the two 16 mm bolts holding the dogbone mount to the transmission.
The non-divided cover makes the job a bit harder: (yep it broke on me at the bottom) I just 5-minute expoxied it back together at the end of the job, worked out fine.
I'm going to update this DIY later, but I wanted to post some initial pictures. I've gotta go back and get some more pictures here tonight and finish the job. I'm also replacing the EVAP valve. I ordered the Timing-belt kit from DBCPerformance. It comes with a water pump with metal impeller, hardware, cam-seal, idler, tensioner pulley and is a great kit!
Last edited by cvincent78; 10-06-2012 at 02:12 PM. Reason: torque specs
All in all, the only PIA about the job was removing the motor mount bracket. The undivided timing-belt cover almost spans the entire front of the engine. I had to remove the motor mount bracket completely to gain access to the bolts and remove the cover. Once that is done, as you can see in the picture you have complete access to the belt area. GOOD LUCK! Oh btw, I have re-ringed a BPY engine before for OIL consumption issues at a dealer, LOL. Now that, was a real PIA.
I'll be posting all the details of performing the procedure properly and all the torque specs I used in foot pounds and newton meters. Unfortunately I don't have all the great pics I intended on taking during the procedure, oh well I guess.
TIMING BELT PROCEDURE
1. Safely and securely raise front of car enough to be able to wiggle under it. If you don't know how, don't proceed any further, or have someone who knows how to work on cars help you through this procedure.
2. Remove bellypan (TORX 25)
3. Turn Wheel all the way to the right
4. Remove P/Side Lower Wheel housing cover (T25)
5. Disconnect Battery NEG Cable and secure away from BAT- post
6. Allow car a good amount of time to cool down, makes life easier somewhat.
7. Disconnect MAF sensor connector, intake hose to MAF and remove upper engine cover/AIR Filter housing. Start in the rear part of the cover and pull up on left rear side until it pulls away. Then right rear side. Then do the front left and right. Don't CRACK your $209.00 engine cover.
8. Clamp-off coolant reservoir return line and remove line. Undo T25s holding coolant reservoir to body Disconnect coolant level sensor from reservoir.
9. Under car - undo spring clamps at AUX. Water pump lower connection and quick-connect lower radiator hose install a drain-pan underneath the two hoses and remove the hoses. While coolant is draining unscrew the coolant reservoir fill cap when reservoir has emptied pull reservoir up and out and lay in front of intake manifold out of the way of the timing belt area
10. Carefully undo the three fuel-lines that are underneath where the coolant jug used to be located. They are fairly easy to remove. See PICS. May want to put a rag around the feed-line, but I didn't see any high pressure in it or anything (car sat for a while). Tape the lines inlets/outlets with masking tape and label/number to your taste each as you remove them to aid during reconnection.
11. Pull all three rubber fuel lines together back towards the intake manifold and tie-rap them to themselves. SEE PICS.
12. Undo the two T30s that connect the feed-line to the intake manifold. The one under the PCV part can be loosened with a 1/4" T30 bit and low-profile ratchet finally I unscrewed it out with a pair of channel-locks.
13. Carefully push the lines back far enough so they are not over the accessory bracket eye-lit.
14. Remove spring clamp at metal coolant pipe to hose that runs between timing belt cover and engine-mount. Use a 90 deg blunt pick or similar instrument to run around inside of hose where it fits over the pipe. Then pull the hose off the pipe. Secure hose away from timing-belt area. Undo the 10mm bolt holding the pipe to the intake manifold. Undo the 10mm bolt holding the metal coolant pipe to the side of the intake manifold and pull it away exposing the eyelit on the accessory bracket which you will use later to secure the engine brace.
15. Using a 16mm wrench slide it over the protrusion ontop of the accessory belt tensioner. Pull it towards the front of the car until you can slide the accessory belt off easily. Using a suitable sized L-shaped allen wrench slide it into the lined up holes on the tensioner to lock it in place. Remove the three 13mm bolts holding the tensioner to the accessory bracket and remove the tensioner from the vehicle.
16. Remove the two 13mm bolts from the alternator and slide them out. Carefully pry in between the alternator and the accessory bracket away from the bracket until it is free. Behind the alternator undo the 8mm nut holding the B+ cable to the alternator and behind the plastic cap the 13mm nut that holds the terminal to the alternator. Carefully remove the alternator from the vehicle. You can now see the thermostat housing in all its splendor.
17. Turn the plastic screw with a penny or what have you that holds the timing belt upper access cover and remove the cover. Use a 19" 12pt socket and turn the crank pulley until the notch on the camshaft aligns with the tip of the arrow pointing next to the OT behind the camshaft cover. SEE PICS.
18. Use a 3/8" breaker bar and the 19" 12pt socket against the frame rail to counterhold the crankshaft during removal of all six eight mm allen bolts holding the harmonic balancer onto the crankshaft sprocket. They are tight. The pulley should easily slide off, don't drop it!
19. At this point you will want to undo the three bolts holding the A/C lines to the frame and body. There is a T30 directly in front of the engine-mount and another in front of that one that is sitting sideways. There is another one near the fire-wall behind the exhaust which I didn't end up having to mess with. This is all because to get the motor mount bracket out you have to jack the engine up so high and then wiggle and fool with it it to get it to clear the A/C lines and frame-rail. With the dog-bone removed and the A/C lines loose I was able to get it out.
20. Engine brace time. There are two rectangular rubber stops secured by T30s on each side on top of the fenders. You can remove the bolts and remove them completely or what I did was just turn them out and away from the fenders. Then adjust your brace slightly loose and carefully align the feet to fit just before where the fenders end and tighten the two ends up. You don't want to put it too far forward because you'll be sitting on plastic which will break under the weight of the engine. Just look at the pics and you should be able to see where it sits best. Then only using one of the securing rods secure it to the accessory eye-lit which should be accessible with the fuel lines and coolant pipe out of the way. Tighten the rod up until the chain feels secured well. I used overkill chain from a hardware store and a pivotal securing end with threaded rods to go through the eye-lit. You can use high grade bolts/nuts and decent sized washers if you wish too. I have those as well.
21. Now that the engine is secured you can undo the big bolts (18mm?) that secure the engine-mount (EM) to the engine-mount bracket (EMB). Take them out completely and you may have to pull on the engine forward and back to make them unscrew easily. Then remove the two (16mm) bolts that bolt the EM to the frame and the two 13mm that bolt the EM bracket to the frame and EM. Lift the EM out of the car completely.
22. Fun part. There are three 16mm bolts that secure the EMB to the engine. Two are the same length and one is shorter (the bottom one). You will have to lower the engine some. Loosen the 16mm lower bolt and take it out first. Raise the engine up some. There is a hole inside the main EM bracket welded to the frame rail. It will allow you the access you need to the front bolt to loosen and take it out. Just raise the engine up with your engine brace until it aligns with the hole. Now the rear bolt I was able to remove from above with it just below the A/C lines. You will just have to find the best way for you. There is also a hole in the frame-rail behind the upper wheel well cover, I can't remember if it is for the lower bolt or the one in the back. Anyway, once you have fought the three 16mm bolts go and meditate before this next step destroys you.
23. The bracket is loose now, the A/C lines are loose and the engine is secured by a chain and can be raised. Raise it up as far as you feel confident. I used a jack underneath the car and as I raised the engine I would push the engine towards the fire-wall and jack it up and push the jack back. That would hold it back from the front of the car. You are supposed to undo the four 11mm bolts that hold the exhaust downpipe to the turbocharger and pull it off as well. I did not do this (no problems whatsoever either). Basically, it is a PIA but you can pull it out between the A/C lines and the engine. Focus on getting the front mounting point that goes into the hole in the timing belt cover out first. Then worry about getting it to come out. Make sure all three bolts are out of the mount completely and somewhere else in your garage or wherever you are (Autozone parking lot? I hope not!). I had an easier time putting it back in. Jack the engine up and down and keep the brace chain tight. Just get a position that works for you. Once it is out you can lower the engine back down some to a more "normal" height and prepare to remove the timingbelt cover. It might seem impossible to remove, it is NOT, be patient and above all DON'T BREAK ANYTHING.
24. Remove all the 10mm and two T30 bolts at top that hold the timing belt cover to the engine. Pull off the cover carefully (notice one 10mm is longer than the rest). Pull off the metal cover that goes behind the crank pulley. Clean the upper part of the the metal cover and find the mark on it that shows TDC (kind of hard to see). Mark it with some bright color fine tipped paint marker or whatever grabs you. Mark the notch on the crank pulley too. This will help alot. Also mark the end of the arrow on the OT part behind the camshaft sprocket and mark the notch on the camshaft sprocket.
25. Hooray! You should now see the timing belt with all its gizmos and gadgets. Making sure the OT arrow notch and camshaft notch still align (didn't change when undoing the cranksprocket) I usually test-fit the lower cover and crank pulley back on and verify their notches align too. Basically undo the 13mm nut that holds the tensioner on and unwind the tensioner. Carefully slide the timing belt off with the tensioner together. Put the tensioner down and slide the belt off the rest of the sprockets and pulleys. Remove the two idlers (top 13mm bottom 12mm). Notice the bottom idler has the inside landing directly in the center of it. The upper one does not. Remove the three 10mm nuts that hold the water pump on. Carefully rotate and pull the water-pump out (maybe use a tiny pry bar too). It can be stubborn. I did not have one iota of coolant come out of the engine when I pulled it (draining from aux. pump helps that). Clean the surface on the engine where the O-Ring seats.
26. If you are doing the cam-seal, make sure you have a decent pulley counter holder tool / 2/3 jaw puller and a replacement camshaft bolt. Although you could probably reuse the bolt; I won't suggest that here. If you do, maybe try to mark it tight in relation to the camshaft and try to get it back to that point or close when you torque it back down (NOT THE WASHER PART, it floats). Using the counter-hold undo the bolt and back it out a few threads. Use the puller and pull the pulley off (careful not TO USE THE SPROCKET TEETH AT ALL AS A PULLING surface). Watch out for the WOODRUFF key not to lose it as it comes out (magnetic pickup tool). Using a seal-puller remove the seal. Clean and dry the surface of the camshaft and hole as perfect as possible. Use packing tape and tape around the camshaft once, only for covering up the wood-ruff slot. Slide the dry-seal over the camshaft and press it on with a suitable socket or tool that works for you. It should be a PTFE seal going on (you never lube them). I'm not sure, but possible PTFE dry lubricant would be OK though. Big thing to make sure is that the seal doesn't DISTORT in any way going on. This may be difficult but possible without the proper seal installer. You may want to not do this part at all. It isn't difficult but requires extra tools and knowhow. You may make it leak when it didn't before. If it is not leaking oil out then don't even bother removing the camshaft pulley if you don't feel confident about doing the seal properly. Re-install the camshaft sprocket with the woodruff key making sure it aligns properly with the woodruff slot and torque the new bolt on to torque spec using the counterhold tool to hold it from rotating.
27. I loobed my wasserpumpe O-Ring with a very light coat of silicone grease. You can use coolant too. Make sure you have it indexed properly when installing it. Slowly press it into the hole and turn it slightly back and forth until it seats completely flush against the block and all the holes align. It should go in fairly easily. If not take it back out and lube the O-Ring some more, just not too much. Be careful no to ruin the O-Ring.
28. Install and torque the bottom idler on. Loosely fit the new tensioner on making sure that the bracket fits squarely into the freeze-plug recess. Turn the 13mm nut on a few turns. Recheck that all the notches still align on both cam and crank. Slide the timing belt loosely around the bottom of the crank and up past the bottom idler (the way it normally would go) and into the tracks on the tensioner pulley. Work your way back down and seat the belt on the bottom of the crank sprocket tightly sliding your way up to the camshaft sprocket securely. work it tightly over and onto the sprocket without turning either sprocket. Now it should be on the two sprockets and the tensioner and the crank sprocket. When doing this make sure you find the point on the tensioner that allows for the most slack. After this, I basically pushed the belt back with the top idler and secured the top idler on and it worked out easily that way. The belt should be ready to be tensioned now. Recheck that the alignment marks still line up.
29. Tighten the 13mm nut on the tensioner finger tight and then holding it with a wrench turn the 8mm allen hole clock-wise until the notch in it aligns with the cut-out then a bit past. Then turn it back until it again aligns perfectly with the cutout and holding it there tighten the 13mm nut to torque-spec. Loosely re-install the lower cover and crank pulley with two old crank pulley bolts opposite each other (a little more than finger tight). Check to see if the notches on the crank and camshaft all still align *IMPORTANT*. If they do, spin the crank two revolutions and check that they still align. If they don't, then redo the timing belt procedure starting over with all the notches lined up with the belt and top idler off. Check again that the notch in the tensioner still aligns with the cut-out. If everything lines up then you did it right. Recheck that you torqued all the bolts properly that are behind the timing-cover. OCD people: Spin the crank another two revolutions and re-check that all the marks align and then recheck bolt torques five more times.
That's it for the timing belt, essentially the rest is pretty much the reverse of removal.
If you are just doing the timing belt then don't bother removing the alternator.
The Thermostat part is in the works.
Last edited by cvincent78; 10-06-2012 at 02:28 PM.
That funny your are doing this right now for your BPY in Cincinnati. I am doing my belt right now and I live in Cincinnati as well.
Question for the timing belt tensioner when you put it back on and have it tightened. The notch on the tensioner is aligned as in the photo below and have it all tightened down to spec. I have rotated the cam gear 4 complete revolutions to triple check it was aligned after it was all tightened up and its spot on.
However, does the hex part of the tensioner have to facing toward the top like this?
Last edited by Boosted2003!; 10-07-2012 at 09:52 AM.
The other pictures were from a DIY guide I found and I noticed that it was different then how mine ended up.
I ordered all my parts from KeeferVW with Bud. Its about $60 more for the timing belt kit and water pump then DBC.
I didn't notice that arrow until I took a picture of mine cause I thought the DYI guess just added that red arrow for some reason.
I adjusted my tensioner so the notch lines up and now it looks as in the original pictures i posted.
Last edited by Boosted2003!; 10-07-2012 at 11:34 AM.
Yeah, the tensioner I used has a paint mark from out of the package. I just lined the notch up with it turning clock-wise. The hex part ended up being in the same position (nearly 12 O'Clock). One of my pics shows the original timing belt still on and if you look at the tensioner it is in the (12 O'Clock) position.
Nice write up! I am about 60% done.. taking my sweet time since I have a second car but this job PITA.. cant wait to be done lol.
Im sure the second time will be easier.
Passat B6 6MT 2.0TFSI, Spork Pkg, Bixenons, Giac,EVOMS Intake, Neuspeed SS, NS Rear S B, Koni FSD/Eibach Pro kit, Peloquin LSD, VF Mounts, Forge DV and FMIC, 18x9 Wheels,Badgeless Grille, Hidef Rear Bumper/Spoiler/Tips, Votex Side, Abt Front lip..
Passat B4 5MT GLX VR6. Moddified Intake Box with K&N Filter, Borla Muffler... more to come.