Proceed at your OWN RISK. I do not take any responsibility for your failure to be careful and/or safe when performing any tasks on or in your vehicle. This guide is only meant to assist people who need torque specifications, general step-by-step or want pics to help identify parts and where they are located.
Timing Belt Procedure is Five posts down or UP depending on your settings.
Tightening Torques (in vague order of removal):
x2 low pressure metal fuel line to intake manifold bolts (T30) - 5 Nm
x2 Alternator Bolts (13mm) - 23 Nm
coolant pipe next to accessory eyelit (10mm) - 5 Nm?
x3 serpentinte belt tensioner to accessory bracket (13mm) - 23 Nm
x2 replace - engine mount to frame bolts (16mm) - 40 Nm + 90 deg
x2 replace - engine mount to engine mount bracket bolts (18mm) - 60 Nm + 90 deg
x2 replace - engine mount to frame brace (little black bracket) bolts (13mm) - 20 Nm + 90 deg (I didn't replace these and I did'nt torque them to spec )
x2 replace - dog bone to transmission bolts (16mm) - 40 Nm + 90 deg
x3 - engine mount bracket to engine - 45 Nm
x2 - turbocharger pipe to engien (underneath crank pulley) (T30) - 8 Nm
replace - Crankshaft Pulley (Harmonic Balancer / Vibration Damper) Bolts (8mm allen) - 20 Nm + 90 deg
x7 Belt Cover Bolts (10mm and top 2 T30) - 8 Nm
timing belt tensioner Nut (13mm nut) - 25 Nm
Idler Roller to Cyl. Head Bolt (Top Roller 13mm) - 25 Nm
Idler Roller to Sealing Flange Bolt (Bottom Roller 12mm) - 35 Nm
replace - camshaft sprocket to camshaft bolt (16mm) - 50 Nm + 180 deg (when doing camshaft seal)
replace - Crankshaft Sprocket to Crankshaft Bolt (19mm 12pt) - 90 Nm + 90 deg (if replacing front crankshaft seal)
x2 intake plastic pipe mounting bolts (T30 and 10MM nut) - 5 Nm
coolant pipe to oil-cooler bolt (XZN/Triple Square) - 5 Nm
x3 waterpump bolts (10mm) and x2 thermostat housing bolts (10mm)- 15 Nm
coolant pipe to coolant thermostat housing bolt (T30) - 5 Nm
Nm to FT. LBS. Converter Site
Here's some initial pics
I tie-wrapped the fuel-lines to hold them away from the timingbelt area. The three fuel-lines are connected by the p/side frame rail. Use masking tape and number the lines so you know which connection they came off, be careful not to get any-dirt in the lines. You can tape over the outlets/inlets to ensure this. The main fuel-line is push-connect (push down and pull up on the insert and pull it out). The other two have a push-button on the side of them and are also a similar disconnect procedure). Also, the T30 underneath the Starship Enterprise holding the metal fuel-rail to the intake-manifold was fun to remove. I used a 1/4" T30 bit and low-profile ratchet. To finish removal I used a pair of Vise-grip channel locks on the screw to carefully turn it out the rest of the way since the bit and ratchet started backing off into the starship. I loosened the other T30 on the metal line in order to carefully (yes the metal line bends a little bit, don't force it) move it out of the way behind the upper engine cover connection to allow for me to hook up the engine brace to the accessory bracket eyelit:
Engine Brace: ($65.00 from Harbour Freight, lube the threaded rods with grease)
thermostat (two 10mm hex/5mm allen bolts hold it to the engine block, one t30 holds the metal line that runs the front of the engine which is also attached halfway back by a "hidden" triple-square). You have to the remove two triple-squares in the pipe location below the throttle body. One for the front metal line and one for the metal line that runs to the thermo-stat housing. The lower radiator hose runs up into the bottom of the thermo-stat housing with a quick connect. just unplug the temp sensor and pull the quick-connect clip out to its stop. Use a blunt ended instrument on the outer edge of the connect of similar width and lightly tap the end of the instrument until you see it start to move away from the housing. continue tapping until it can be easily pulled completely off. I used a 28" long flat-blade duralast screw-driver and a dead-blow. There was only one way it fit. behind the engine brace chain and at a angle. That way I had plenty of striking room. It you have trouble, make sure you have the clip pulled out to its stop and that you are tapping the quick-connect hose side and not the thermos-stat side. Clean the o-rings in the quick-connect and lube lightly with silicone grease, PTFE dry lube or coolant.
Engine-Mount and Engine Bracket all four bolts are stretch (Torque to Yield bolts). the two bolts that bolt the engine mount to the frame are (29.5 ft. lbs. plus 90 degrees or 1/4 turn). the two bolts that bolt the engine mount to the engine bracket are (44 ft. lbs plus 90 degrees or 1/4 turn). the three bolts that hold the engine mount bracket to the engine are (33 ft. lbs and no angle torque), but they are torqued in sequence from top left, top right and lastly bottom bolt. Also, the bolts that hold the crank pulley on are one-time use bolts and are (14.75 ft. lbs. + 90degrees). Lastly, camshaft bolt is one-time use and is (36.8 ft. lbs. + 180 deg or 1/2 a turn). There is also a coolant hose attached to a metal line that runs in front of the timing belt-cover. Rlease the spring clamp and also unbolt the metal line from the end of the intake next to the accessory bracket eyelit before attaching the engine brace to it. The hose was dam near glued to the metal line. I had to run my 90 degree pick (or a flat screw driver will do) all the way around the inside of it to release it from the metal line. Be careful not to rip the hose. Before attempting removal of the engine mount bracket undo the three bolts that hold the A/C lines to the body (TWO T30s). Some people suggest removing the 4 exhaust downpipe to turbocharger outlet bolts to aid in raising the engine (I did'nt do it and I didn't have any trouble either). I might suggest removing the two bolts that mount the exhaust to the subframe and see if that helps if you are having trouble getting the engine mount to engine bracket out).
Remove this metal turbocharger pipe (two quick-connects on each end and T30s holding it to the engine oil pan) be careful because OIL may come spilling out
Drained it from AUX-Waterpump lower hose connection and removed hose from lower quick-connect to radiator (spring-clamp to quick-connect). While you are positioned under the engine, go ahead and undo and remove the two 16 mm bolts holding the dogbone mount to the transmission.
The non-divided cover makes the job a bit harder: (yep it broke on me at the bottom) I just 5-minute expoxied it back together at the end of the job, worked out fine.
I'm going to update this DIY later, but I wanted to post some initial pictures. I've gotta go back and get some more pictures here tonight and finish the job. I'm also replacing the EVAP valve. I ordered the Timing-belt kit from DBCPerformance. It comes with a water pump with metal impeller, hardware, cam-seal, idler, tensioner pulley and is a great kit!