bump
#1
I currently have a Mk2 with a 98ob2 vrt in it. I am going to be selling the motor (keeping my trans) and doing an 24V 3.2 this winter. I know that the motor will bolt into the car as it sits right now. I also want to mention, i am going to be running lugtronic stand alone for reliability with the wiring and simplicity. I am keeping it front wheel drive and using my lsd 02a trans off my vr. I want to know what all i need otherwise. little things, like what intake to run, what size or kind of throttle body, any info would be great really. I have been looking for info on this, but cant seem to find much on here.
my current setup
![]()
#4
I know we briefly talked last Friday at the mk2 gtg about this but Ill put everything into text in here just so its documented.
You'll use the 12v rear mount bracket and it bolts right up to the 3.2 block. Same with the front mount bracket. Mine I had to notch and weld back together because my oil cooler was in the way but Ive heard others not needing to do this. You also need a small spacer between the front mount bracket and the block. The 24v blocks are missing a boss that the 12v's have. Ill try and get a picture of mine later today. The o2a trans will bolt right up to the 3.2 block the same way it does on your 12v. You will need to use your 12v flywheel and clutch assembly. From there the engine will bolt right to your mk3 vr6 subframe the same way your 12v does. For a downpipe you either need to use a 24v TT downpipe (I think this works for the 3.2 as well, thats what I'm using on my 2.8) or cut the cat off the stock 3.2 downpipe and weld a flange to it so it will bolt to your stock cat. As far as the throttle body goes you can use almost anything as long as its cable operated. Im using a OBD2 12v on my swap, thats just because I had an extra sitting at my shop. But Kevin mentioned a mustang throttle body as well as some other applications that will work too. Once you get talking to him about your wiring he can give you the run down on that. Really, if your using lugtronic, it makes the swap just as easy as a 12v, if not easier. Like I said the other day PM me if you have any questions![]()
#5
Great great great info man.Also, i dig your car. I am going to be using lugtronic, so hopefully that makes things easier. Im not sure what clutch to run, Im thinking a sachs stg 2 or something. Im almost pos. i need slimline fans as well. I know you just kind of ran your coolant however, i was told not to keep my inline filler. I guess im going to run a coolant ball again. I do apprecaite the info, I already have a motor lined up for a good deal out of a toureg. Im pumped to get a jump on this.
#6
Im just running a stock 12v clutch in mine. I havent had any issues with it. But something beefier definitely wouldnt hurt. For fans, yes you will need some type of slim fan. The 24v intake manifolds sit much closer to the radiator support so theres not much room there. Ive got two slim fans mounted on the front side of my radiator. I dont know that you necessarily need the stock coolant bubble. I think you would be fine using an in-line filler, it should work just the same as it does on a 12v. This winter I plan on making a custom coolant reservoir to get rid of the stock bubble. FYI, you might want to research a little before you buy the toureg engine. I remember hearing or reading somewhere when I was looking for my engine that the blocks for the automatic transmission engines were a little different and that manual tranmissions wont bolt up. Im not sure if that is true or not. I never looked any further into it once I found an engine from a manual car. But I figured I'd put that out there before you ended up buying something. I'm sure I have alot more info to add to this. As I think of more I'll post more in this thread.
#7
ok. ill def look into that, im almost pos its ok to run a motor from a toureg. But i will double check. I want to use the inline filler i have though, i like it alot. lol As far as the rear motormount goes, i have bfi stg 1 mounts. I didnt cut mine at all, my motor slopes a bit. I dont care though because i like the pan clearence I have. Di you cut your mount down at all? Im prob going to.
#8
Your probably right, I just remember hearing that somewhere. But there could very well be no truth to it. Im running BFI .5 motor mounts. I had to cut the front down some because the intake manifold was hitting the hood. No problems with the rear. Im running a mk5 r32 pump and shortened steel pan so ground clearance is no issue.
#9
I know I'm a little late in this thread but a touareg motor will work Paul from kptuned was running one in his mk3.
#10
Thanks for clearing that upI was looking at a few touareg 3.2s the other day. I wouldnt mind the upgrade from my 2.8 24v
![]()
#12
LOVE your car man, and yeah I looked into it. The BAA Toureg motor is what needs to be used.
If I sell my daily tomorrow, ill be ripping the VRT out and selling it. Think 3,500 is a fair price for a rebuilt motor with cams, and everything you need to support a stg 3 turbo kit, with the kit, but no trans?
Also, what is lugtronics #? I e-mailed them days ago for info, no reply yet.
#13
Yeah Id say thats a fair price. Give Kevin a few days or so and see if he emails back. Hes a busy guy, sometimes it takes him a little bit to respond. If not try emailing him again. Tell him Gaets sent you his way. Ill also PM you his phone number. I dont want to post it to the public.
#14
Some pictures of my lugtronic harness before it went in the car.
Three simple plugs for the fuseblock, Relays for the fuel pump and fans.
Fuseblock to ECU, ECU to bulkhead connector
Bulkhead connector that is located under my passenger side frame rail
Engine harness
Complete harness
![]()
#15
What does that harness run you?
#16
You're looking at over $2k. But alot depends on what options you have Kevin build into the harness.