are you getting spark and fuel?
Went to start my car. Car started right up no problem then immediately stalled. It now won't start at all. I turn the key with the clutch in and the engine turns but wont fire up. The battery is 2 weeks old. The alternator has been tested good. All 6 ignition coils are 2 weeks old. I can hear the fuel pump prime when the door is opened. Im stumped. Any ideas guys?
2003 Jetta (Bora) VR6 24v BDF Engine 165,000 miles.
Thank you for the reply. I work graveyard. This happened at 8:45pm. I ended up driving my ladies car to work. When I got home the next day from work and what not. Around 11:00 am I went to start the car again and it started up quickly without any hesitation it reved and idled normally. So I would assume that it is getting spark and fuel. Is it possible that it was just a fluke and not happen again? I would hate to get stranded. Any help would be helpful. Thanks.
I get some similar random issues occasionally. If I stall it soon after start up it has a hard time getting back up and running. Simple fix for me is to not stall the cold motor , but it happens. Though the other day I put the car in neutral at a traffic signal and it just shut off , but it started up with no problems.
No codes or anything it is just random, but I've been searching as well and apparently a failing crank positioning sensor could cause similar issues. But seeing that is a >$100 part I won't just replace it without knowing if that is the exact problem part. Other possible sources of the problem I dug up are fuel pump relay and possibly the fuel filter and maybe the fuel pressure regulator.
I also just re-checked the spark plug gap and set to spec 1.1mm and deliberately stalled it and while it was hard to start, it wasn't as bad as an accidental cold stall.
Get on the LOUD pedal!
I had the warm stall before I got the UM tune, as per usual on start ups with a warm engine... but I could usually remedy that issue with giving it some throttle to maintain a running idle and it would subside after a few seconds. There is a TSB on the factory re-tune to fix the warm stall issue-it should be free, but the dealer will most likely try to get you to pay for the re-tune.
Get on the LOUD pedal!
Thanks for the help guys. I have a crank sensor on the way just to be sure. Was thinking about replacing the fuel pressure regulator too just in case as well. Car is still starting great and running fine. Just the one time so far. Ill look into the TSB re-tune as well.
You guys are so very helpful. Thank you again. I ordered a new fuel pressure regulator from amazon for about $45.00. I replaced the crank sensor today. Took only an hour. I gotta say, my car is running like a new car again. So many little things I overlooked are now corrected. In case anyone is interested, I ordered the crank sensor from ebay for $14.60. Yes thats correct. $14.60. I was skeptical but it was an exact replacement. Here is the link to the ebay page - http://www.ebay.com/itm/400320572591...84.m1423.l2649
Ok so my car has been running great. Just went out to go to work a bit ago and it tried to start and sputtered out and died. Pulled the fuel pressure regulator out and turned the key on and no gas is coming out. I am pretty sure that this means the fuel pump has died. I checked 1 relay under the steering column and it works, but I dont know exactly which relay is for the fuel pump. Also if it is the fuel pump, which im sure it is, is there a diy for changing it out for my car around? Any help will be much appreciated. Thanks.
Ok so I found out that the fuel pump relay is the tall one with 409 on it. It seems to be clicking like it should. I took it apart and cleaned the contacts off and put it back together. I did notice that it has a small circuit board attached to it as well. It might be bad. I dunno. I lifted the back seat and opened the fuel pump access hole. I turned the key on and got 1.6 volts on the wire labled #1 and about .26 volts on the wire labled #3. Does anyone know if these voltages are correct? It seems that the pump should have 12 volts.
When cranking the fuel pump should be running or at least with key on you'll feel it vibe or just run with the drivers door open. When changing the fuel pump first disconnect battery, second remove access plate third remove plug to harness and quick disconnect fuel lines. There is a ring that you can use a flat head and small hammer to knock off it holds the pump down.
When you go to buy a new pump make sure 1 you get it from the dealer you'll pay a bit but better in the long run. 2 it does not come with the sender unit for the float so you will have to use the old one unless you get a new one. 3 a brand new gasket that seals the tank and the pump.
The pump only goes one way so take a mental pic of which way the lines are as well as the plug. Gets to be a little pain with the fuel lines in the way but you can get it done. Make sure the lock ring is tight back into place fuel lines clip into place and harness plugged in.
Also not a bad time to do a fuel filter if u haven't already. That you don't have to get from the dealer either a wix or Bosch will do fine. Fuel filter is held under the car right in front of the p/s back wheel all quick disconnects and a clamp
Once all is done connect battery n fire it back up