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    Thread: mk4 GTI throttle issues/EPC light/engine cut-out

    1. Member runvdub's Avatar
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      10-03-2012 07:30 PM #1
      So ive got an 02 1.8t gti 5 speed
      The car ran fine and i decided to replace the front suspension components and change the oil.
      I didnt start/move the car for 2 days til it was done and when i started it, it seemed to be ok until i hit the gas pedal....NO THROTTLE RESPONSE and the EPC light was on

      scanned and codes were P2128/P2133 and also the CEL for P0038/P0300
      I removed the throttle body for a good cleaning and no luck.

      Went ahead and purchased a second hand TB which im garunteed is Working.
      Yes i know i need a throttle body alignment. So my question is will this fix my Throttle issue?

      BTW i need VagCom if anyone can hook me up to help

      Last edited by runvdub; 10-03-2012 at 07:32 PM.
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    2. Member Scigano's Avatar
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      10-03-2012 09:15 PM #2
      I hope I'm wrong, but check the condition of your O2-sensor wires. Are they frayed, cut, or damaged/exposed in any way?

    3. Member runvdub's Avatar
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      10-03-2012 10:32 PM #3
      I checked them all the way to the fire wall. No damage as far as I can examine.
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    4. Junior Member Rmnorth1.8t's Avatar
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      10-08-2012 03:00 PM #4
      I have had the same thing happen to my 04 1.8t . I run water/meth and it has seized 2 throttle bodies resulting with the same symptoms you are currently having. You might want to do a hard reset of the computer in the car to fully remove all fault codes. Hope this helps!
      2004 MKIV Gti 1.8t: Things and stuff and cars and things!

    5. Member runvdub's Avatar
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      10-08-2012 03:34 PM #5
      Will do when I get vagcom this week. If a TBA doesn't fix it
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    6. 10-09-2012 08:16 PM #6
      I was having the same exact problems as you.
      I smoke checked my insane for leaks, did a tba, cleaned tb, and checked basically everything. The last thing i checked was the maf because i feel it's become a cliche around here.. Lol.
      But anyway, i noticed that with the maf unplugged my epc light stopped coming on. Its a fairly new (not reman) maf so i decided to check the wires from the maf to the ecu. And sure enough i found that the red wire (your maf wires may be dif) was almost completely cut and must have been shorting out or something.
      I fixed that and i haven't had the epc light come on since.

    7. Member runvdub's Avatar
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      10-09-2012 11:49 PM #7
      Oh really? I'll defly check that out tmrw. Not that It's a good thing but I hope it is the issue to make for an easy fix.

      Thanks
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    8. Member rodebaugh99's Avatar
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      10-10-2012 11:29 AM #8
      hey man I'm having the same problems with my car I replaced my whole gas pedal assembly as told to do from a bunch of people at h20 but it didn't fix me problem so I was starting to think my ecu may be fried until I started researching and the only thing that I've noticed with the ecu frying is usually the car won't start or you will have the epc light and the traction control but I only have the epc light on if you guys could help me out it'd be great I'm going to check my o2 sensors today

    9. Member DMACK's Avatar
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      10-10-2012 11:57 AM #9
      In for you to figure it out? mine did the same i boosted it to 18psi and im mafless 630cc than epc light and asr came on and there was no throttle response. turned the car off and back on and its been fine for two weeks now?

    10. Member runvdub's Avatar
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      10-10-2012 03:40 PM #10
      My MAF wires seem fine. I already checked my pedal plug and it's ok as we'll. Friday should be when I do the throttle body alignment.y traction control light is on now and then but that's because my wires were shredded but temporarily fixed them. O2 wires are fine as well but the sensors themselves might not be good but can't get them loose.

      My car shuts off after a few seconds, thinking its due to lack of intake intake to the manifold.
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    11. 10-10-2012 04:48 PM #11
      Just an update

      I'm still epc and cel free. I've also done a lot of reading up on our mafs. I've come to the conclusion that regardless of the code that's thrown, check your maf and wires first lol.

      The reason for my codes was the fact that the wire that was all effed up was the one sending the signal to the ecu telling it how much air was coming in. That signal also meets up with the one the accel pedal sends before actually going to the ecu.

      Before i fixed that wire the only codes that were thrown were for the accelerator pedal assembly and tb.

      All of those sensors are so intertwined with each other that they don't really know the root of the problem, just that there is one. If that makes sense.

      If you don't end up finding the cause, the last thing u should do would be to make up some overlay harnesses. Cuz it's most likely an electrical problem.

      Oh also idk if this was mentioned but check fuse #43

    12. 10-10-2012 04:54 PM #12
      Oh i forgot to ask you. Which wires were all chewed up? If you mean the wires for your maf then im pretty sure that's the problem. And i can get u a new harness for 10$ lol. That's what i ended up doing.

      But if you're taking about your O2 wires then your probably shorted out your ecu and that's your problem

    13. Member Scigano's Avatar
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      10-10-2012 06:04 PM #13
      Quote Originally Posted by DMACK View Post
      In for you to figure it out? mine did the same i boosted it to 18psi and im mafless 630cc than epc light and asr came on and there was no throttle response. turned the car off and back on and its been fine for two weeks now?
      Have you VAGCOMed your car to see what codes the ECU threw? What you could be experiencing is the damned "Torque Sensor: Limit Exceeded" code.

      Does it happen if you boost under certain condition only, or all the time (like part-throttle boosting throws it, but WOT is fine, or visa versa — details like that)?

    14. Member runvdub's Avatar
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      10-10-2012 06:19 PM #14
      Bmp #1746
      I checked the wires for the MAF as well as the o2 sensors. All wires were fine still wrapped in tact. The wires we pulled apart on accident were near the oil filter (found out they are for the a/c).

      Anyhow, I can't wait for vagcom to show up in the mail so I can at least see if I can tinker with the problem and fix that TB. If not.. I'll recheck wires and see if I can figure out a new custom harness of some sort to find the issue. Which I'm sure I'll need help on that one. But thanks man. Will keep updated
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    15. Member runvdub's Avatar
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      10-11-2012 08:13 PM #15
      So here it is. Finally got vagcom today and ran a scan and these are the results
      (Also did a throttle body alignment and still no throttle)


      VCDS Version: Release 11.11.4
      Data version: 20120807

      Thursday,11,October,2012,19:59:19:05301

      Chassis Type: 1J - VW Golf/Bora IV
      Scan: 01 02 03 08 15 16 17 19 22 29 35 36 37 39 46 47 55 56 57 75
      76

      VIN: 9BWDE61J424020055 Mileage: 418250km/259888miles
      -------------------------------------------------------------------------------
      Address 01: Engine Labels: 06A-906-032-AWW.lbl
      Part No: 06A 906 032 DL
      Component: 1.8L R4/5VT G 0006
      Coding: 07500
      Shop #: WSC 14390
      VCID: 6BDE291B19914540E47

      5 Faults Found:
      18039 - Accelerator Position Sensor (G79)
      P1631 - 35-00 - Signal too High
      18042 - Accelerator Position Sensor 2 (G185)
      P1634 - 35-00 - Signal too High
      17513 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor Heating; B1 S2; Heating Circuit
      P1105 - 35-10 - Short to Plus - Intermittent
      17953 - Throttle Valve Controller
      P1545 - 35-10 - Malfunction - Intermittent
      17953 - Throttle Valve Controller
      P1545 - 35-10 - Malfunction - Intermittent
      Readiness: 0100 1100

      -------------------------------------------------------------------------------
      Address 03: ABS Brakes Labels: 1C0-907-37x-ASR.lbl
      Part No: 1C0 907 379 D
      Component: ASR FRONT MK60 0103
      Coding: 0021505
      Shop #: WSC 00000 785 00200
      VCID: 2B5EE91B89118540A47

      4 Faults Found:
      00285 - ABS Wheel Speed Sensor; Front Right (G45)
      008 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent
      00283 - ABS Wheel Speed Sensor; Front Left (G47)
      012 - Electrical Fault in Circuit - Intermittent
      00285 - ABS Wheel Speed Sensor; Front Right (G45)
      012 - Electrical Fault in Circuit - Intermittent
      01314 - Engine Control Module
      013 - Check DTC Memory - Intermittent

      -------------------------------------------------------------------------------
      Address 15: Airbags Labels: 6Q0-909-605-VW5.lbl
      Part No: 6Q0 909 605 F
      Component: 08 AIRBAG VW6 0202 0004
      Coding: 12344
      Shop #: WSC 00000
      VCID: 3A70DC5F264B2CC82F1

      5 Faults Found:
      00592 - Seat Belt Switch; Passenger (E25)
      32-10 - Resistance too High - Intermittent
      00591 - Seat Belt Switch; Driver (E24)
      32-10 - Resistance too High - Intermittent
      00532 - Supply Voltage B+
      07-10 - Signal too Low - Intermittent
      01217 - Side Airbag Igniter; Driver Side (N199)
      32-10 - Resistance too High - Intermittent
      01218 - Side Airbag Igniter; Passenger Side (N200)
      32-10 - Resistance too High - Intermittent

      -------------------------------------------------------------------------------
      Address 17: Instruments Labels: 1J0-920-xx5-17.lbl
      Part No: 1J0 920 906 J
      Component: KOMBI+WEGFAHRSP VDO V65
      Coding: 07232
      Shop #: WSC 09128
      VCID: 2F66FD0BED09F96088F
      9BWDE61J424020055 VWZ7Z0A3994656

      4 Faults Found:
      01176 - Key
      65-10 - Unauthorized - Intermittent
      01177 - Engine Control Unit
      64-10 - Not Currently Testable - Intermittent
      01314 - Engine Control Module
      49-10 - No Communications - Intermittent
      01304 - Radio
      49-00 - No Communications

      -------------------------------------------------------------------------------
      Address 19: CAN Gateway Labels: 6N0-909-901-19.lbl
      Part No: 6N0 909 901
      Component: Gateway K<->CAN 0001
      Coding: 00006
      Shop #: WSC 09128
      VCID: F0E4BE77B0B72698515

      2 Faults Found:
      01314 - Engine Control Module
      49-10 - No Communications - Intermittent
      01304 - Radio
      49-00 - No Communications

      -------------------------------------------------------------------------------
      Address 46: Central Conv. Labels:
      Part No: 1C0 959 799 C
      VCID: 3776C56B155931A0D0F


      End ---------------------------------------------------------------------
      I run vdub..

    16. Member Slimjimmn's Avatar
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      10-11-2012 10:34 PM #16
      Unplug your rear 02 sensor and clear the codes and do a tb adapt
      the car is on an inclined driveway and up on jack stands in the front only
      02 GTI 1.8t:> 42DD 3" turboback, BFI full stg1 mount kit, Evoms CAI, Forge boost hoses, Tacotaco sidemount, Ebay TIP, IE 2.0 coil conversion, IE manual tensioner, 20th front brake conversion, IE emissions delete, 42dd catch can, Koni STR.t & WRD sport springs, Samco Coolant hoses, SMF vr6 clutch kit.

    17. Member runvdub's Avatar
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      10-11-2012 11:09 PM #17
      Quote Originally Posted by Slimjimmn View Post
      Unplug your rear 02 sensor and clear the codes and do a tb adapt
      That was my next move thanks. Not sure how I'm gonna get that rear sensor out but I'll find a way
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    18. 10-12-2012 12:10 AM #18
      Just look up under the right side of car near your front door. There should be a black square that houses the o2 sensors plugs.

      Just see which one goes to the rear and unplug it

      The cover is held on by two 10mm plastic bolts

    19. Member runvdub's Avatar
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      10-16-2012 06:04 PM #19
      So i got a new o2 sensor. Cleared the code and still no throttle!?
      There were other items scanned, but non related (airbag/door locks/abs)
      Do these codes mean the ECU/ECM is shot or that something is wrong with the wiring harness?

      VCDS Version: Release 11.11.4
      Data version: 20120807

      Tuesday,16,October,2012,17:50:37:05301

      Chassis Type: 1J - VW Golf/Bora IV
      Scan: 01 02 03 08 15 16 17 19 22 29 35 36 37 39 46 47 55 56 57 75
      76

      VIN: 9BWDE61J424020055 Mileage: 418250km/259888miles
      -------------------------------------------------------------------------------
      Address 01: Engine Labels: 06A-906-032-AWW.lbl
      Part No: 06A 906 032 DL
      Component: 1.8L R4/5VT G 0006
      Coding: 07500
      Shop #: WSC 14390
      VCID: 6BDE291B19914540E47

      2 Faults Found:
      18039 - Accelerator Position Sensor (G79)
      P1631 - 35-00 - Signal too High
      18042 - Accelerator Position Sensor 2 (G185)
      P1634 - 35-00 - Signal too High
      Readiness: 0100 1100

      -------------------------------------------------------------------------------
      Address 17: Instruments Labels: 1J0-920-xx5-17.lbl
      Part No: 1J0 920 906 J
      Component: KOMBI+WEGFAHRSP VDO V65
      Coding: 07232
      Shop #: WSC 09128
      VCID: 2F66FD0BED09F96088F
      9BWDE61J424020055 VWZ7Z0A3994656

      4 Faults Found:
      01176 - Key
      65-10 - Unauthorized - Intermittent
      01177 - Engine Control Unit
      64-10 - Not Currently Testable - Intermittent
      01314 - Engine Control Module
      49-10 - No Communications - Intermittent
      01304 - Radio
      49-00 - No Communications

      -------------------------------------------------------------------------------
      Address 19: CAN Gateway Labels: 6N0-909-901-19.lbl
      Part No: 6N0 909 901
      Component: Gateway K<->CAN 0001
      Coding: 00006
      Shop #: WSC 09128
      VCID: F0E4BE77B0B72698515

      2 Faults Found:
      01314 - Engine Control Module
      49-10 - No Communications - Intermittent
      01304 - Radio
      49-00 - No Communications
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    20. Member
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      10-16-2012 06:17 PM #20
      Bad O2 sensor cooked the throttle drivers in the ECU. Verify the O2 sensors and wires (with a meter, not visually), and then replace the ECU.
      1998 GTI 2.0T
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    21. Member runvdub's Avatar
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      10-16-2012 06:27 PM #21
      Quote Originally Posted by Anony00GT View Post
      Bad O2 sensor cooked the throttle drivers in the ECU. Verify the O2 sensors and wires (with a meter, not visually), and then replace the ECU.
      Oh joy! well i have a brand new 02 sensor. Hook that up then replace the ECU?
      What specificly needs to be done?

      Find an ECU for 1.8t 5/6 speed, AWP does engine code matter?
      Then how do i swap the ECU, electronically. I know how to pull it out.

      Your help is greatly appreciated, but the bad news is not
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      10-16-2012 06:32 PM #22
      Quote Originally Posted by runvdub View Post
      Oh joy! well i have a brand new 02 sensor. Hook that up then replace the ECU?
      What specificly needs to be done?

      Find an ECU for 1.8t 5/6 speed, AWP does engine code matter?
      Then how do i swap the ECU, electronically. I know how to pull it out.

      Your help is greatly appreciated, but the bad news is not
      Yeah, this isn't exactly an uncommon problem. I've seen it caused by bad O2 sensors, and on cars with big downpipes, O2 sensor wires melted against the pipe.

      You're going to need an ECU that matches the EXACT part number as yours to start. Then you need to find someone who can match the new ECU to the immobilizer in your car (cluster, keys, etc). Basically you're limited to the dealership for this, not much availability in the aftermarket. You might be able to find a tuner to disable the immo altogether, but these ECU's are not just plug and play. Contact Jack@european parts on here, he does immo work.

      The most important thing is that you confirm 110% that the original problem (O2 heater short) has been fixed, because if not, you're going to immediately let the magic smoke out of the new ECU as well.
      Last edited by Anony00GT; 10-16-2012 at 06:36 PM.
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    23. Member runvdub's Avatar
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      10-16-2012 07:30 PM #23
      So buying a used stage 1 united motorsports ECU for AWP manual transmission with immo defeat. That should be compatible correct?
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    24. Member runvdub's Avatar
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      10-16-2012 09:50 PM #24
      Well this isn't factory ECU but car ran fine on it before.


      Will this ECU work to replace it?


      The last two digits (DL vs RN) make a difference?
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    25. Member Slimjimmn's Avatar
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      10-16-2012 11:02 PM #25
      Quote Originally Posted by runvdub View Post
      Well this isn't factory ECU but car ran fine on it before.


      The last two digits (DL vs RN) make a difference?
      RN - awp
      DL- aww

      it should work,
      just make sure the rear o2 sensor is new and or the short is fixed.
      the car is on an inclined driveway and up on jack stands in the front only
      02 GTI 1.8t:> 42DD 3" turboback, BFI full stg1 mount kit, Evoms CAI, Forge boost hoses, Tacotaco sidemount, Ebay TIP, IE 2.0 coil conversion, IE manual tensioner, 20th front brake conversion, IE emissions delete, 42dd catch can, Koni STR.t & WRD sport springs, Samco Coolant hoses, SMF vr6 clutch kit.

    26. Member runvdub's Avatar
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      10-17-2012 12:08 AM #26
      Perfect. And my engine is awp anyways so that's better. But o2 is brand new as of tonight.
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      03-07-2013 07:50 PM #27
      did you ever fix your problem? and what did you end up doing if so?

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      03-14-2013 11:04 AM #28
      This happened to me last night only while driving. The EPC light came on and I lost a lot of power then a few miles later I lost all throttle response.

      I am convinced that it is the accelerator peddle sensors/wires. There was heavy rain that drive and also had to drive through a couple large puddles (my car is lowered too). The previous owner drilled a 3/8 inch hole through the firewall for a boost gauge that is no longer hooked up so there is just an open hole for water to travel.

      Right behind the firewall is all the wires to the pedals and I did notice it was wet from the looks of it. Found a replacement OEM pedal for 140 from ecs tuning however ebay has some for 60 bucks.

      Going to go push the trigger and get a replacement pedal. If this does not fix it the only other alternative that makes any sense to me is the throttle body sensor.

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      03-14-2013 11:44 AM #29
      Quote Originally Posted by jland22 View Post
      This happened to me last night only while driving. The EPC light came on and I lost a lot of power then a few miles later I lost all throttle response.

      I am convinced that it is the accelerator peddle sensors/wires. There was heavy rain that drive and also had to drive through a couple large puddles (my car is lowered too). The previous owner drilled a 3/8 inch hole through the firewall for a boost gauge that is no longer hooked up so there is just an open hole for water to travel.

      Right behind the firewall is all the wires to the pedals and I did notice it was wet from the looks of it. Found a replacement OEM pedal for 140 from ecs tuning however ebay has some for 60 bucks.

      Going to go push the trigger and get a replacement pedal. If this does not fix it the only other alternative that makes any sense to me is the throttle body sensor.
      Before you do that, scan it and get all the codes. You can use a good scan tool (Read: VCDS) to check the pedal before buying any parts.

      To call a pedal failure is rare is probably an understatement. Don't think I've ever seen one get wet though.

      Either way, diagnose properly and repair once, instead of just throwing parts at the problem. You need the proper scan tool to adapt any throttle-related replacement parts anyway.
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      03-14-2013 11:59 AM #30
      Quote Originally Posted by Anony00GT View Post
      Before you do that, scan it and get all the codes. You can use a good scan tool (Read: VCDS) to check the pedal before buying any parts.

      To call a pedal failure is rare is probably an understatement. Don't think I've ever seen one get wet though.

      Either way, diagnose properly and repair once, instead of just throwing parts at the problem. You need the proper scan tool to adapt any throttle-related replacement parts anyway.
      Thank you. I had the local VW shop run the codes:

      P0222- Throttle position sensor
      P0601- Fault in the Powertrain Control Module (PCM)

      The dealership said that the P0601 may be thrown due to the sensor failure in the pedals or throttle body sensors but it was most likely the pedal sensors.

      Are these codes to vague?

      I am also reading that people replaced the peddle and the throttle problem still persists. Could it be the wiring in the ECM between the sensors that went out?
      Last edited by jland22; 03-14-2013 at 12:12 PM.

    31. Member
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      03-14-2013 01:40 PM #31
      P codes are never great compared to a VCDS scan.

      Codes aside, you need the scan tool to test operation of all the sensors to figure out what's going on. It could be a wiring issue as well.
      1998 GTI 2.0T
      1993 Jeep ZJ 4.0

      World Automotive
      Need any VCDS (VAG-COM) diagnostics or coding in the North NJ area? PM me.

    32. Member elRey's Avatar
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      16vt 2.0L MK4 Jetta Wagon | B6 A4 Avant
      03-14-2013 06:54 PM #32

    33. 05-21-2013 02:28 AM #33
      yo! i been having the engine cut off and the epc light come on too but when i read the check engine, the code was p0740 which is the TCC. so i bought the solenoid for it since its automatic. Sooooo that has NOTHING TO DO with the engine dying out when i come to a stop? For example: Im slowly pulling out of my drive way, as my car goes from 1st-2nd gear, it slips then the other gears are good. i keep driving, then randomly, as i come to a stop, my car turns off (only when im coming to a stop or am completely stopped). I keep trying to turn it on but it doesnt get the crank until i press the gas pedal like 10 times while cranking it. when it finally turns on, the EPC light stays on. then i turn it off and it turns on normally after that. Is that what you were experiencing? Because my code read p0740 which was the TCC

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