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Thread: Fuel pressure regulator leaking after taking it off?

  1. Member james dean r32's Avatar
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    10-04-2012 11:58 AM #1
    I took my fuel pressure regulator off hoping it would help in getting to my green top coolant temp sensor. It doesn't Now when I put it back on its leaking? I didn't depressurize the fuel line first. Can this be the cause? If so do I just open the gas cap, pull the fuse for the fuel pump, and then re-insert the fuel pressure regulator? or do I need to get new O-rings for the regulator?
    Thanks

  2. Member huichox4's Avatar
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    10-04-2012 12:16 PM #2
    Quote Originally Posted by james dean r32 View Post
    I took my fuel pressure regulator off hoping it would help in getting to my green top coolant temp sensor. It doesn't Now when I put it back on its leaking? I didn't depressurize the fuel line first. Can this be the cause? If so do I just open the gas cap, pull the fuse for the fuel pump, and then re-insert the fuel pressure regulator? or do I need to get new O-rings for the regulator?
    Thanks
    go to napa they can get the o rings for a couple of bucks, they are fragile. the system pressurizes if you prime it when you plug the battery back again, same sound as when you open the door, let it rest or unplug the battery and prime it again, usually a couple of times would do it but and then try cranking it, might not start at first try so try again. for the FPR, taking it off is where you have to be careful not to get sprayed on the face with gas.

  3. Member james dean r32's Avatar
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    10-04-2012 12:37 PM #3
    Thanks Luis
    What's the best way to put the FPR back on? One thread said to use a flat head screw driver and tap it back on? Also my car hasn't been running the best so should I just get a new FPR from Ecs tuning. I have already replaced coil packs / plugs, fuel filter, and cleaned the air filter. The car stutters around 2700 rpm's in first. It might do it in other gears but I don't feel it as much.

  4. Junior Member fish10782's Avatar
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    10-04-2012 12:38 PM #4
    I doubt the fuel pressure ironed out your o-rings when you took it out. Most likely when you put it back in you ironed them out, EASY FIX . like he said go to napa and get new o rings. They better not cost a few bucks, the whole o-ring kit cost like 50.

  5. Junior Member fish10782's Avatar
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    10-04-2012 12:42 PM #5
    Just push it in by hand, no biggy. Make sure it's square and push down. If it'scrooked it will iron out your o rings. They can take a lot of abuse.

  6. Member huichox4's Avatar
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    10-04-2012 12:54 PM #6
    Quote Originally Posted by james dean r32 View Post
    Thanks Luis
    What's the best way to put the FPR back on? One thread said to use a flat head screw driver and tap it back on? Also my car hasn't been running the best so should I just get a new FPR from Ecs tuning. I have already replaced coil packs / plugs, fuel filter, and cleaned the air filter. The car stutters around 2700 rpm's in first. It might do it in other gears but I don't feel it as much.
    when you get the new orings make sure everything is clean, I usually put a little bit of the spilled gas in the orings and while it has not evaporated slide it in the fuel rail, just so it slides in easier...... even thought its gross you could use a little bit of spit too. now to press it in so you can slide the clip that holds it down I use a C clamp, just make sure you dont tighten the thing down too much, you just need enough so the clip slides in.

    Quote Originally Posted by fish10782 View Post
    I doubt the fuel pressure ironed out your o-rings when you took it out. Most likely when you put it back in you ironed them out, EASY FIX . like he said go to napa and get new o rings. They better not cost a few bucks, the whole o-ring kit cost like 50.
    I cant recall how much I pay exactly for the 2 orings, but I am sure it was less than $5 ... I want to say closer to $2.50 but cant recall.

    same orings for any mk4 engine and fpr from 3 to 4bar I believe

  7. Member james dean r32's Avatar
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    10-04-2012 01:00 PM #7
    I can get the o-rings from the dealer for $14.00 but they won't have them until Monday so I hope NAPA will them in stock or least sooner.

  8. Member huichox4's Avatar
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    10-04-2012 01:03 PM #8
    Quote Originally Posted by james dean r32 View Post
    I can get the o-rings from the dealer for $14.00 but they won't have them until Monday so I hope NAPA will them in stock or least sooner.
    took a day for them to get them at napa but they usually have them in stock to the one close to my place.

  9. Member huichox4's Avatar
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    10-04-2012 01:12 PM #9
    Quote Originally Posted by james dean r32 View Post
    Thanks Luis
    I have already replaced coil packs / plugs, fuel filter, and cleaned the air filter. The car stutters around 2700 rpm's in first. It might do it in other gears but I don't feel it as much.
    what is the gap on the plugs? and have you cleaned the MAF? not really sure what the stutters could be.

    it happens all the time or occasionally? does it do it in neutral if you rev it up?

  10. Member james dean r32's Avatar
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    10-04-2012 01:32 PM #10
    The gap is at what ever they came at. The dealer said they were gapped already. I did clean the MAF as well. It only does it while driving not in idle. What seemed to get rid of the problem was having Thip turn off my REVO flash but as soon as I disconnected my battery it came back. Maybe the flash reset itself? In any case I have been wondering if the REVO flash is't causing the problem rather inhansining it?

  11. Member huichox4's Avatar
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    10-04-2012 02:18 PM #11
    Quote Originally Posted by james dean r32 View Post
    The gap is at what ever they came at. The dealer said they were gapped already. I did clean the MAF as well. It only does it while driving not in idle. What seemed to get rid of the problem was having Thip turn off my REVO flash but as soon as I disconnected my battery it came back. Maybe the flash reset itself? In any case I have been wondering if the REVO flash is't causing the problem rather inhansining it?
    i always check the gaps, they try to have them pre gaped but have seen variances before, rarely but it happens. though, if you had the same issue before and after it might not be the problem.

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