Have you checked the grounds on the tranny? Did you take the flywheel off or anything and not put it on right/ tighten it to much?
I am putting my MK3 VR6 back together after doing the headgasket, timing components & a few other fixes here & there. After I got it all back together & filled with fluids, I tried to start and its a no-crank. When I turn the accessories on, I hear a click, but when I try to start the engine, nothing. Well, not nothing: The lights on the dash goe out & my headlights turn off, but starter wont crank. The battery was a little old, so I dropped a new battery in, but still the same symptoms. I used the key FOB to turn off the alarm, and have unlocked and locked the driver's side door with the key in an attempt to ensure the alarm was disabled. Before I took the car apart, the starter cranked. The only thing I can think of is some starter lockout or a faulty starter. Is there something I am not doing? Where do I go from here? I would appreciate any help. Thanks
I did take off the tranny & flywheel, and yes it is possible I didnt put it back together right. Do you know of a good resourse to find that information? Right now I have the ground from the battery running to a bolt holding the transmission to the block on the lower front side. I just read that it should go under the thermostat housing, so it seams feasable. I will look at it in the morning. I plan of testing that connection via voltmeter to the engine block when I get my length of wire. As far as bypassing the alarm, I am planning on that as soon as a go get a length of wire to bridge the gap for the alarm and then Ill also try a direct connection to the starter to see if it is faulty. Thanks for the insight, it gives me something to try.
The click and no crank sounds like the problem I had last year. It was the starter motor. The terminals on it were all corroded. I just had to replace it. If this is your problem it was fairly easy on my 2.0L. Had to remove a engine mount bolt and support the engine with a jack under the oil pan with a 2x4 between them. The difficult part was getting the starter bushing out of the engine block but there is a trick. Thread a tap into the bushing and pull it out, then it's easy.
This happened the same night I replaced my fuel filter so I thought I messed something up initially. Turned out it was just a coincidence.
Last edited by joecap5; 10-09-2012 at 11:09 PM.
go to the heart first...
Jump the started directly.
Disconnect the battery from the car completely. use jumper cables and some good jump wire(thick). connect cables to the battery(that is no longer connected to the car), connect jump wire to the other end of the cables. Connect other end of jump wire to the proper locations on the starter. with an additional jump wire jump the solenoid with the positive feed. if the starter doesnt crank then theres your problem.
before doing any of this make sure the car is not in gear and the emergency brake is engaged.
if the starter works you should simply hear it crank. the engine wont start since you wont have gas flowing through.
Also if the starter works then you'll have to back track through the rest of the ignition system in order to find out whats causing your issue. Starting with the cables going to the starter and starter connections. then on to starter relay, ignition switch, alarm module, blah blah blah.
if it doesnt work then take it out. bench test it again and make sure its not working before replacing it.
Does your car have a clutch safety switch if so try bypassing it.
Stupid question , but did you try jump starting it? New batterys aren't always fully charged regardless of what the store says.
Search through here first http://faculty.ccp.edu/faculty/dreed...tech/index.htm
Weekend play thing ....http://i934.photobucket.com/albums/a...tocrossing.jpg
I wouldn't jump the starter directly. There likely is not sufficient pritection in that type of circuit. You may wind up hurting your car or yourself. If the starter is somehow shorted inside you basically be touching the positive to the negative.
Instead you can use a multimeter at the starter termials while some one tries to crank. You should get something lile 13 volts or more. I think a good battery is around 14 bolts. If voltahe drops to 12 or below there ia something wrong with the connection or battery. You should inspect the cable and starter terminals for any damage or looseness as well.
Engine is not seized- I have manually turned it via big bolt on crank pulley. But good thought.
I should have a clutch saftey switch based on it being a 97,. I am not 100% because in the past I never had to stand on the clutch to get it to start. I think that that switch is stuck in the 'in' position since my cruise never worked either. Never looked at it tho. I need to bleed air out of the clutch line, so the pedal just kinda hangs right now... I dont think this would affect the clutch saftey switch, but then again Ive never really looked at that system. I would love to know a way to bypass the clutch saftey switch.
Whats the ABA? I tapped my solenoid to try and unstick it in the case it was stuck, but no dice.
I really appreciate all the ideas, thanks alot. I am planning on doing some diagnostic tomorrow, so hopefully I can find the culprit soon.
Ok, so today I checked the connection from the + battery to engine block and the large terminal on the end of the starter to the - battery and got 12.6V for both. I dont have a test light to plug into the starter like this writeup suggests, but i used my voltmeter instead. No voltage when someone tries to crank. So this tells me I have a problem that prevents the starter from getting current. I guess my starter could be bad too, but Ill start here.
I went ahead and bled my clutch in case it was affecting the clutch safety switch, but still no results. Does anyone know how to access this switch so I can really take a look at it &/or replace it? Can I take the panel under the steering column off?
While I am messing with wires down there & whatnot, Ill try to bypass the alarm and take a look at the lockout relay. Does anyone know what to look for when checking a relay?
Ive heard one can diagnose the ignition switch by checking to see if your headlights go out when you try to crank. Is this right? My lights do go out, so that means it is good?
If I could find a good jumper wire, Id try to jump the starter and go ahead and see if it works, but I dont have anything on-hand that is big enough.
No factory stereo, but it ran with the stereo installed as-is.
I'm not definite but no voltage during cranking could mean the starter is internally shorted. If so you'd effectively be connecting both leads of the the volt meter to the negative terminal.
If you've never had your starter motor replaced and have more than 130k miles I'd just go ahead and replace it. It's likely to go on you soon anyway. I got mine from NAPA. 10% discount for AAA.
If you do it remember the trick I wrote about before: use a tap to get the bushing out of the engine block. I have a 2.0L ABA so it may be a little different.
if your nervous about jumping the starter while its in the car, then take it out.
but you need to start there before doing all of the bypassing...
your goal in bypassing is to see it you can start it right??? well if the starter is shot, how will you know if the bypassing helped??
START AT THE HEART...
If you can jump the starter out of the car. theeeenn you can start back tracking to see if something else is stopping voltage from getting to the starter.
with starter out of car you can sit the body of the starter on the negative lead of the battery, then use your jumper cables to go from the positive lead of batt to the stud that your starter cable was connected to in the car.
from here you'll need to have some jump wire to touch both that stud and the terminal connector on the starter. (you didnt hear this from me but something like a wire hanger would work here...JUST DONT HOLD IT WITH YOUR BEAR HAND...use pliers or something, it will get red hot quickly) Only touch the two together briely to see if the starter will spin.