is the Mazda6 really that much better? just curious
#1
I came to the CC from a Mazda6. This has made me craving some better turning, from the CC.
Does anyone have this installed, and do you approve?
http://www.goapr.com/products/swaybar_rear_mkv.html
#4
I would recommend the BSH 27mm solid rear bar, and the H&R 28mm solid front bar.
#5
i'm leaning toward BSH rear sway bar. Is there any modification needed since it's thicker. I read somewhere a long while ago regarding the installation of BSH 27mm sway bar. Any insight would be cool.
#6
No modifications needed to install the H&R or BSH rear sway-bars ( I have done both), BUT I did also install, at the same time, the "Stern Rear Subframe Reinforcement", which DID require some grinding and spacer-washers to install.
#7
Definately, granted it did have AWD but with turned off, I could still handle turns like a champ. Turns marked as 25 MPH I could easily accelerate through 70 MPH past the apex of the turn. There is one of these turns close to my house. I am braking to 40 MPH in the CC, and it feels like I am pushing it. I may just not have a good feel for the CC yet. I could handle this same turn in the 6 over 70 MPH, no braking need. I pushed the 6, on this turn, accelerating to 90 mph, through the apex. I thought the car was going to roll and my life was over. I would assume two of the tires left the ground for an instant.
Good to know, I will buy and install these, after next week.
#8
#9
This is in the country, not a suburban area nor metropolis. Zero accidents, zero tickets on my record.
I was providing an example of handling abilities, between two cars, not seeking your asinine "badass title", with the picture your friend on Facebook posted, that you've been aching to use. I bet pink panties fit you nicely.
Now, the posts from all the members that have never/act like they never exceeded the speed limit will come.
#11
i remember i saw an ebay link a while back with the best price for BSH rsb (around $240 shipped)...Can't find it anymore..
APR's 27mm rsb is $238+shipping though.
#12
Nope, I actually went to find one, and found that
I'm not saying I never speed, I'm saying I sure as hell hope you don't drive like that on roads that have traffic in both directions, that is STUPID, as you "hit 90 mph through the apex" if you wanna drive like that, go to the track, has no place on public roads, that is all.
As far as your thread goes, sway bars are all you prob need, suspension if you can deal with a bit stiffer of a ride.
#13
If you think the cc is a racekor clearly you need to lower it alot more. Cut the front sway bar out to get lower, and notch the frame to clear axles. Now your getting somewhere.
But if you must both bsh and h&r are well known companies with quality parts. Both will not let you down.
Sent from the tip of my fingers using tapatalk
#14
JUST INSTALLED THAT VERY 27mm BAR LAST WEEK...IT DOES THE TRICK!
2012 CC R-line
Candy White, painted black roof,mirrors,grille,Daytona's /smoked ft sigs / Eibach Pro-kit / APR 27MM FT & R ADJ.SB / debadged / Easy lip / 35% tint / / Euroswitch / Flat Bottom Paddle shift wheel ...
#15
And it only took 15 minutes to install
2012 CC R-line
Candy White, painted black roof,mirrors,grille,Daytona's /smoked ft sigs / Eibach Pro-kit / APR 27MM FT & R ADJ.SB / debadged / Easy lip / 35% tint / / Euroswitch / Flat Bottom Paddle shift wheel ...
#16
Im running a BSH 27mm RSB w/ BSH endlinks and a Neuspeed 25mm FSb w/ heavy duty endlinks
You really should keep the RSB larger then the FSB. A RSB helps the front end grab traction where the FSB will do the same to the back. Though upgrading the front will help to lessen body roll so upgrading the front is beneficial just not the more crucial one to do initially.
If you really have your heart set on the APR ones just go with Hochkis sway bars from tire rack. Hochkis makes the APR sway bars all they do is powder coat them red for APR then u pay the APR price
Sent from my Galaxy SIII
Unitronic Stage III w/ PT5558BB Turbo (What a difference UNI is from APR!!)Unitronic.ca,HPFP Upgrade Stage 1 pump, 3in.TBE, BSH throttle pipe/27mm RSB/Endlinks , Forge 007 DV , RalcoRC SS, 42Draft Design CNC Shifter bushings, N2MB WOT box, BFI stage 2 motor/tranny mounts, 034 Dogbone, Koni FSD shocks, Neuspeed springs/25mm FSB, Whiteline Anti-lift kit/Front control arm bushings, 18x8.5 VMR VB3s, JBL stereo, CTS Turbo 2.0t FSI Big turbo kit!
#17
It all depends on your suspension setup.
Start with coilovers or springs (if you plan on lowering it, or looking for a stiffer setup) AND/OR then try a REAR swaybar....then look to your tire setup for grip.
THEN, if necessary, look to upgrading the front sway bar
2013 VW
#18
Where is the cheapest for BSH rsb or other 27mm rsb?looking for $250 shipped or lower
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#19
The APR 27mm rear bar is on sale right now....just find somewhere that offers free shipping on it
Here ya go...$237 SHIPPED:
http://www.namotorsports.net/APR/Sus...ber=APSB100044
2013 VW
#20
Unitronic Stage III w/ PT5558BB Turbo (What a difference UNI is from APR!!)Unitronic.ca,HPFP Upgrade Stage 1 pump, 3in.TBE, BSH throttle pipe/27mm RSB/Endlinks , Forge 007 DV , RalcoRC SS, 42Draft Design CNC Shifter bushings, N2MB WOT box, BFI stage 2 motor/tranny mounts, 034 Dogbone, Koni FSD shocks, Neuspeed springs/25mm FSB, Whiteline Anti-lift kit/Front control arm bushings, 18x8.5 VMR VB3s, JBL stereo, CTS Turbo 2.0t FSI Big turbo kit!
#21
I'm ordering one this month, probably an APR. I know on my 01 GTI it was the single best mod that I installed, and I had pretty much everything but a big turbo kit. I'm am thinking it will do wonders for my CC that is already lowered on coils.
2010 CC R-line 6 speed APR Stage 1
Magnaflow catback/no resonator, KSPORT Coilovers, clear turns, debadged, Verdict Motorsports shift bushings, Hotchkis 27mm RSB
#22
Buy a Hotchkis RSB its 200$ vs the APR 279$
they are the SAME sway bar Hotchkis makes the sway bars for APR so save yourself some money
Unitronic Stage III w/ PT5558BB Turbo (What a difference UNI is from APR!!)Unitronic.ca,HPFP Upgrade Stage 1 pump, 3in.TBE, BSH throttle pipe/27mm RSB/Endlinks , Forge 007 DV , RalcoRC SS, 42Draft Design CNC Shifter bushings, N2MB WOT box, BFI stage 2 motor/tranny mounts, 034 Dogbone, Koni FSD shocks, Neuspeed springs/25mm FSB, Whiteline Anti-lift kit/Front control arm bushings, 18x8.5 VMR VB3s, JBL stereo, CTS Turbo 2.0t FSI Big turbo kit!
#23
Not sure about the bigger rear RSB and smaller FSB suggestion (I've always seen the opposite available, or some packages have the same diameter). But I'm new to FWD, and definitely not a suspension guru. Can you explain a little more?
I checked TireRack and they don't show any available hotchkis products (at least not for an '09 CC sport). I tried searching elsewhere, but it doesn't look like they have CC specific suspension parts. Would swaybars for other models work?
#24
the GTI stuff fits fine, i posted a link above for them on the tire rack site
As for the Sway bar size front to rear:
the way sway bars work is they help force traction to the opposite end they are mounted. So the Rear sway bar helps traction in the front and the front sway bar helps you grab traction in the rear.
If you com from a RWD car world having a larger FSB would make sense bc the FSB would be beneficial in cornering on a RWD car bc it will put more pressure to the rear wheels.
For our FWD cars a larger RSB will help with less body roll and help you grab more traction when turning
A FSB is still a good thing to do but you dont really need a huge FSB im running a 25mm up front and 27mm in the rear the FSB is great for reducing body roll more but for our cars the RSB is more important, bc it will allow you to accelerate out of a turn better
Unitronic Stage III w/ PT5558BB Turbo (What a difference UNI is from APR!!)Unitronic.ca,HPFP Upgrade Stage 1 pump, 3in.TBE, BSH throttle pipe/27mm RSB/Endlinks , Forge 007 DV , RalcoRC SS, 42Draft Design CNC Shifter bushings, N2MB WOT box, BFI stage 2 motor/tranny mounts, 034 Dogbone, Koni FSD shocks, Neuspeed springs/25mm FSB, Whiteline Anti-lift kit/Front control arm bushings, 18x8.5 VMR VB3s, JBL stereo, CTS Turbo 2.0t FSI Big turbo kit!
#25
will an H&R 24mm RSB do the job? I only do street driving and the car is my DD. thanks!
2013 CC Sport 6-speed | Island Grey | Cornsilk Beige | Diesel Geek Short Shifter | Cornsilk Shifter Boot | Aluminum Pedals | Chrome Exhaust Tips
#26
Unitronic Stage III w/ PT5558BB Turbo (What a difference UNI is from APR!!)Unitronic.ca,HPFP Upgrade Stage 1 pump, 3in.TBE, BSH throttle pipe/27mm RSB/Endlinks , Forge 007 DV , RalcoRC SS, 42Draft Design CNC Shifter bushings, N2MB WOT box, BFI stage 2 motor/tranny mounts, 034 Dogbone, Koni FSD shocks, Neuspeed springs/25mm FSB, Whiteline Anti-lift kit/Front control arm bushings, 18x8.5 VMR VB3s, JBL stereo, CTS Turbo 2.0t FSI Big turbo kit!
#27
thanks Bill, will do the 26mm.
2013 CC Sport 6-speed | Island Grey | Cornsilk Beige | Diesel Geek Short Shifter | Cornsilk Shifter Boot | Aluminum Pedals | Chrome Exhaust Tips
#28
#29
#30
I think the RSB is different between a front-drive versus all-drive CC.
#31
Unitronic Stage III w/ PT5558BB Turbo (What a difference UNI is from APR!!)Unitronic.ca,HPFP Upgrade Stage 1 pump, 3in.TBE, BSH throttle pipe/27mm RSB/Endlinks , Forge 007 DV , RalcoRC SS, 42Draft Design CNC Shifter bushings, N2MB WOT box, BFI stage 2 motor/tranny mounts, 034 Dogbone, Koni FSD shocks, Neuspeed springs/25mm FSB, Whiteline Anti-lift kit/Front control arm bushings, 18x8.5 VMR VB3s, JBL stereo, CTS Turbo 2.0t FSI Big turbo kit!
#32
Truth there!
Same bar as APR except it's black
I had the Hotchkis bar on my GTI, but the poly bushings squeaked (even with tons of lube) & I went with an H&R instead (it's silent)
Just Google the Hotchkis part number and search for the best price. I think I picked mine up for $190 SHIPPED
2013 VW
#33
The Hell with having the - Front End Plow & Lean like a - Old BUG .
The Front Bar allows Me to take the Turns so Fast I can get the Rear Tires to do a ever
so slight Driff . and Apply the Power . ( CC Sport - Really Stays Flat )
Front End Bar really Rocks , now I also through on the White-Line Racing : Caster Anti Dive
Traction Bushings , so that Firmed up the Bushing Compliance on the LCA's some ,
and Greased that Area .
I Believe the Bar did all the Work as I had to take it out and do it again they Actually sent the
wrong one . OOoooppps , got a Discount and some Nice Bushings .
Anyway Have VW Install or APR - themselves as it is a Bit of a Job - DIY Rated 4 ****
Due to the Alignment Issues If You get the Sub frame Off or a slight tweak . Which
can be avoided If all is Marked Really Well . My Local Shop did it and it was OK Job - saved
$200.00 - I was going to get an Alignment anyhow . 40K on It so Due.
I'll do My Best to Help You: ** Fall Sale is On ! ** -
http://photobucket.com/Storm_Rooms_S...view=slideshow
#34
If you use the "VW Special Tool" which keeps the subframe in its original position when you install it, (forgot the tool pn, but its listed in the VW Service Manual, I recall abot $40), no front-end alignment is needed after the front sway bar install.
#35
I'm looking into getting used APR 27mm Rear Sway Bar... Pretty good deal..
but have no experience with the swaybars....
is there anything i should be aware of when i check on the used sway bar?
what would be the best setting to use?
2011 PaCCaT "Hybrid": WT 30%, Dectane Headlights, 100%Clear Frnt Turns, R-Steering Wheel, R Door Sills, 4300K USP, LEDs, Stance 6ix, Eibach Pro, Hotchkis 27mm RSB, BSH Torque Mnt, Full Carbonio AI .
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In Process: Led Footwells(rear), Brembo Gold Caliper Paint w/ VW Decals. WTB: