Check the torque on all suspension bolts. Most likely a control arm bolt is loose.
When I let off the gas then it starts to drift back towards the right. This is not torque steer as when i'm at cruising speed I can gently accelerate and it will drift. It's also very twitchy.
I recently got done installing upper strut mount bushings, LCA rear bushing, inner and outer tie rods/ends, , ball joints, and sway bars front and rear. I have also had my alignment done since putting the parts on.
Did this at a friends shop. I noticed looking at some other walkthroughs that when final torqueing some of the bolts this should be done with the suspension loaded with the weight of the car, otherwise the bushing will twist and be preloaded. We did not do this, could this be the cause of all the funky drifting/pulling I am seeing? This wasn't happening before we put the new parts on and I highly doubt I ruined the bearings to this degree overnight.
Putting this up on the rack again tomorrow, any insight would be helpful.
The control arm bushings should be torqued at ride height, that way the bushings not twisting.
A pull or drift can only be caused by one suspension alignment measurement and that is caster, I would loosen and retorque the bushings at ride height and recheck your alignment.
Also, a toe out condition will make the car more likely to wander when the vehicle is traveling down the road. Most OEM alignment specs call for a slight toe in ( .10 degrees or so) to counter this and give the vehicle a more 'stable' feeling. You can play around with different settings however, depending on what driving dynamics you are trying to attain.
A FWD or AWD car will naturally toe in the front tires under acceleration as they are pulling the car, where as a RWD car will naturally toe out as it is pushing the vehicle. If you toe out .05-.010 degrees you will probably see a slight mpg increase and marginally less tire wear as the wheels will be pointing straighter as you are travelling down the road.
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