oh and i did a SAI delete![]()
#1
So my alternator went on my 03' 24v, so i thought "hey seems like a good time to put an R32 head on my BDF block...." 3months later.... lol This is my issue........
Idles great(especially when cold) while driving it has a power loss in low RPMs(alot more loss when it is at running temp) aswell as a ticking noise coming from the passenger/front corner side of the engine(get louder as engine gets hotter) and starts rough when it is hott........FYI no engine light yet
-Quick MOD List-
-R32 head on BDF block(head had a full valve job)
-HPA clone SRI
-R32 TB
-R32 Injectors(obviously)
-034 giant fuel rail/adjustable FPR
-Coolant bubble delete
-Power steering reserve move
-Battery Relocate
also btw my plugs keep coming out powdered black, and i had to "modify" the coolant temp sensor so it would fit between the TB and T-housing(it still registers coolant temp but could ii still be mafunctioning??)
ohhhhh and what fuel pressure should i run???? im running about 55psi right now, just below 4bar
THANKS GUYS!!!![]()
..."understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car, and oversteer is when you hit the wall with the back of the car"...
#2
oh and i did a SAI delete![]()
..."understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car, and oversteer is when you hit the wall with the back of the car"...
#3
Bump
..."understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car, and oversteer is when you hit the wall with the back of the car"...
#4
It appears that your plugs are being carbon fouled and if it's happening on all of them, you're probably running rich. With all of your mods, this isn't the easiest problem to diagnose.
-Holmes
People are always surprised that my car smells of crayons
#5
Yess carbon fouled was the term i was looking for thanks![]()
FYI update: i took all the plugs out and cleaned them, lowered the fuel pressure to 40psi, than ran the car again(just for ****s and giggles). It ran virtually the same(except it had a difficult time starting) but the plugs werent fouled this time. So something along the lines is messing with the AFR. could this be cause by a faulty coolant temp sensor?
Many thanks!
..."understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car, and oversteer is when you hit the wall with the back of the car"...
#6
Morning Bump plus possible ideas......
-Bad timing
-Bad Coolant temp sensor producing a bad AFR, especially at temp
-Couple sticky lifters(causing the ticking)
-Bad IACV(do you have to replace the whole TB to fix this particular problem?)
-Dirty or Bad MAF
All in all i think its for sure narrowed down to a Air/Fuel ratio problem, thoughts....
..."understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car, and oversteer is when you hit the wall with the back of the car"...
#7
You didn't mention whether or not you had a tune to support the .:R head on your 2.8 block. Without that, the motor would do all kinds of strange things, to the best of my knowledge.
#8
bad fuel filter?? lol im reachin i need HELP
..."understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car, and oversteer is when you hit the wall with the back of the car"...
#9
..."understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car, and oversteer is when you hit the wall with the back of the car"...
#10
Help Bump!!!
..."understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car, and oversteer is when you hit the wall with the back of the car"...
#11
bump
..."understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car, and oversteer is when you hit the wall with the back of the car"...
#12
But is it the correct one for 2.8 displacement?
I would find someone with vagcom and look at some of the engine values. Like MAF flow, injection timing, fuel trim, and lambda.
If you can log block 002 you can figure out your A/F ratio. I don't know how accurate it is though. http://www.ross-tech.net/vag-com/exa...el_EXAMPLE.xls
Regardless a real A/F gauge wouldn't hurt.
I read something the other day that said when you unplug the coolant temp sensor the system defaults to certain value. So drive the car cold, then at operating temp, then unplug the sensor once at temp and see if it acts like when it's cold.
Have you made sure there are no vacuum leaks?
Also are all the plugs the same color or are the front 3 different from the back 3? Spark plug chart
Last edited by Jo|\|; 10-11-2012 at 11:22 AM.
#13
-For the C2 flash i will double check C2 for the compensation for displacment!
-Any place where you can recommend decent fairly inexpensive A/F meters?
-I will try and find someone out here with VagCom but SD VDubbers are far and few between.
-As far as the coolant temp sensor, it is virtually impossible to unplug the damn thing without taking the thermostat housing all the way off(this is because of how tight it fits between the Throttle body and Thermostat housing) so it isnt as easy as it should be.
-I will spray some carb cleaner around the engine bay, to tripple check for vacuum leaks
-and yes all the plugs are carbon fouled, unless i turn the fuel pressure down to 40psi, then they seem to run clean but the car has a very difficult time starting
BTW thanks for the input, as i really do need varied ideas and oppinions on this, i will check for the suggested things this evening!
..."understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car, and oversteer is when you hit the wall with the back of the car"...
#14
24v's have a wide band 02 as their primary sensor for a/f, so the value on vag com should be pretty accurate.
best way to diagnose, as someone above mentioned, is to hook up the laptop and run some logs while driving around
#15
..."understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car, and oversteer is when you hit the wall with the back of the car"...