Sounds like a great deal.
Posted this one here before, but last year we found this '93 325i for $1200 and drove it home for my kid's GF.
It's needed a water pump and a coil pack and a basic tuenup, but that's it mechanically. It also needed both front window regulators because the PO trashed them trying to install a **** stereo system. Luckily he hadn't had it long enough to truly trash it and was using the money to go buy another Civic. It's been a good car for her since we got it.
I love cars, but the problem is they are like schroedinger's hobby. They're always in a quantum superstate of being both awesome and a huge waste of time and money... until observation momentarily forces them into one state or another.
Car 36 – Mark Smith / Arran Moulton-Smith – 1993 BMW E36 M3 by retromotoring, on Flickr
Car 111 – Mark Astall – BMW E36 M3 3200 by retromotoring, on Flickr
Car 55 – Mark Humpries / Matthew Humphries – Blue 1996 BMW E36 Coupe by retromotoring, on Flickr
Car 12 - Dennis Crompton - White BMW E36 M3 3200cc by retromotoring, on Flickr
Car 6 - M Jones and C Brierley - BMW E36 M3 XSN206A by retromotoring, on Flickr
Car 8 - Tim Harvey - BMW 318is by retromotoring, on Flickr
They were OEM replacement e-code ZKW's, which were the best for the money in my mind in terms of performance and looks. No angel eyes or HID's, which look out of place in my opinion. I think the city lights were pre-wired but I can't quite recall as my buddy did the install.
Losing is just a winning streak in the wrong direction -DD
Watch a headhunter find his own job - 9 month process
The problem seems to be that because of the shorter travel length the shocks seem to hit the internal bump stops more often... Bisltein apparently made a revision to the Bilstein sport... and some have even opened them up to shorten the bump stops themselves.
If we're including all of the options (including the pricey ones)...
The most important and probably best modification on these E36's is getting camber plates or getting some camber for the front... you could also flip 96-99 strut hats left to right to gain a good amount of camber.
H&R Sports/Eibach/Vogland Club Sports + Koni adjustables (you can get old Porsche 911 rears which actually have top adjustment via knob, instead of getting the 'adjustable bodies' which you'd have to remove the shock to adjust. TCKline and Ground Control have both used these as the 911's rear forces etc are similar to the E36)
Bilstien PSS or PSS9... progressive springs, pretty good on the street, ok for track, but you'd probably want some linear rates.
TcKline SA's... best option for coilovers using Koni's IMO, best valving, great support, well known quantity. You can run springs up to 700# but anymore than that and they won't last long or you'd have to get Double Adjustables.
TRM coilovers... valve, tested, designed specifically for E36. Can handle spring rates up to 1000# and as low as 450#, comes with camber plates and rear shock mounts, monotube, adjustable clicks, adjusts rebound/compression together with a split. Separate height/preload adjustment. I have these on my car and even running almost double the spring rates of my old Tein's, they actually ride better.
JRZ RS1... $$$ supposed to be really good though
The OE Sports are the same spring rate as the H&R Sports, but don't lower the car as much. This is a good thing, as the stock springs are already getting pretty darn close to how low you can take the E36 before the effects are detrimental.
But simply refreshing the suspension with OE components will amaze you.
I'm really just here for the pancakes.
I'm Sorry Hachi... I love you.