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    Thread: New bike...cx content

    1. Member
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      10-11-2012 08:22 AM #1
      For the last few years I had been thinking about purchasing a cyclocross bike for on and off road duty. My $100 15ish year old Specialized road bike is in need of some parts, so last month I decided to pull the trigger on shopping for a cx instead of throwing more money in the road bike. After a bit of searching I ended up with a Civilian Vive Le Roi in sweet pea.

      WHAT'S IN THE BOX?????


      Some assembly required:



      Assembled:



      Only a few gripes about the build. The sliders needed to be adjusted to center the wheel and the brakes were horribly out of adjustment. Also not a fan of the shifter cable housing length at the back (too long) and how short they brake housings are at the front (will cause some rub issues on the head tube).

      As expected the bike is a bit heavy. This is mostly due to the steel frame but the anchor-like wheelset is a contributing factor. The rear wheel in particular feels like it is made of cast iron (probably due to the cheap/heavy cassette). At some point I want to build up a lighter wheelset more geared towards singletrack use and keep the existing set with some more road worthy tires.

      Other than that it is great. Right now it is on 700x32 Kenda Kwicker tires. Going to give these a shot but I think I may upgrade to a larger volume tire. I also tore the cheap foam bar wrap when the bike fell over as I was removing a wheel reflector ...so I will probably rewrap the bars soon.

      First dirt ride will be Sunday with a mix of shell/gravel and some rooty singletrack. Can't wait.
      Last edited by A1an; 10-11-2012 at 08:28 AM.

    2. Member username's Avatar
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      10-11-2012 08:34 AM #2
      very cool, love the colors. I had been eyeing one of those when they were on sale back in the late summer, but decided to hold off. Enjoy!

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      10-11-2012 08:36 AM #3
      cool bike! Is the rear spacing 135 or 130mm? If its 135, you could probably buy a decent set of 29er wheels that are fairly light for ~$500-550ish.

      Also, think about going tubeless. It cuts about a half-pound off your wheels, and allows you to run much lower tire pressures without worrying about pinch flats. I'm floored how well stans tubeless stuff works on my mountain bike.

    4. Member
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      10-11-2012 09:01 AM #4
      Unfortunately a 130mm spacing in the rear, but it is a steel frame so I can squeeze a 135 back there if needed. Not a ton of choices for 130mm disc hubs unfortunately...the only two worthy off the shelf solutions seem to be a $90 Velocity hub or a $200ish White Industries. If I go the 135 route it will get a Hope.

      New wheelset will get Stans hoops of some sort (undecided which) but I think I may try tubeless with this wheelset. I'm tubeless on both my mtn bikes and hate tubes with a passion.

    5. 10-11-2012 09:12 AM #5
      great looking bike!

    6. Member merckx56's Avatar
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      10-11-2012 09:20 AM #6
      Pro-tip : Leave the long housing on the R/D alone. I've found that when you think the housing is long enough on a SRAM derailleur, add an inch.

      I've fixed several bikes around here that had crap SRAM shifting by merely changing out the R/D housing for a longer one.
      ... you're not a hipster. But you definitely have hipster tendencies. Stay vigilant... like diabetes, you can manage this.
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    7. Member
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      10-11-2012 09:40 AM #7
      Thanks for the tip. I think I am accustomed to seeing SRAM's mtn rear derailleurs which have very little housing back there.

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      10-11-2012 10:22 AM #8
      SRAM MTB RD's are directly swappable with road. So no need to go down to a 9-speed (unlike Shimano).
      2008 Passat wagon, 2.0T 6MT with mods
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    9. Member simple's Avatar
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      10-11-2012 11:29 AM #9
      Nice bike!

      Not surprised it is heavy. Those disc brakes add around 2 pounds so I'm guessing that bike is at least 23 or 24 lbs.

      Convert it to a singlespeed sometime to see how you like it.
      If you can't measure it, you can't understand it; if you can't understand it, you can't control it.

    10. Member simple's Avatar
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      10-11-2012 11:49 AM #10
      Oh and I advise you to get new hardened bolts for your slider dropouts. The one's it came with are probably soft and prone to backing out. I know the Paragon ones are so I replace mine with Grade 5 bolts from Ace Hardware.
      If you can't measure it, you can't understand it; if you can't understand it, you can't control it.

    11. Member
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      10-11-2012 12:26 PM #11
      Quote Originally Posted by BsickPassat View Post
      SRAM MTB RD's are directly swappable with road. So no need to go down to a 9-speed (unlike Shimano).
      Good to know. I think if I ride a lot of single track with this I may swap it out. I just don't like the idea of a huge loop of cable housing flopping around back there waiting to get caught on whatever.

      Quote Originally Posted by simple View Post
      Nice bike!

      Not surprised it is heavy. Those disc brakes add around 2 pounds so I'm guessing that bike is at least 23 or 24 lbs.

      Convert it to a singlespeed sometime to see how you like it.
      Quote Originally Posted by simple View Post
      Oh and I advise you to get new hardened bolts for your slider dropouts. The one's it came with are probably soft and prone to backing out. I know the Paragon ones are so I replace mine with Grade 5 bolts from Ace Hardware.
      I wouldn't be surprised if it is in the mid to upper 20's. It is a 61cm frame and it feels like it may be heavier than my XL frame mountain bikes which are in the lowish to mid 20s. I'm undecided on ss with this bike. Given the mixed terrain I'm not sure if I want to restrict myself to a single gear. Prob will give it a shot though. My two mountain bikes are ss as it is my preferred method of getting around off road.

      Good call on the slider hardware. I'm going to upgrade soon...the stuff is pretty cheap.

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      10-14-2012 07:52 PM #12
      Took it out on its first ride today. Just under 29 miles of shell/gravel, paved, and mostly singletrack.

      I've been riding a rigid 29er for about five years now so I knew what to expect with trail feel. What I didn't expect was the ability to easily lift the front and the feel of that carbon fork. I was running 45psi in the 700x32 Kenda Kwickers...much different than the 27psi in 29x2.4 on my steel rigid bike. I figured those skinny tires with higher pressure would create a bone rattling ride. I was pleasantly surprised this wasn't the case. I'm now thinking about a carbon fork on my 29er.

      Other than that the bike felt amazing on the smoother parts of the trail. Wasn't all that great in the rooty sections but that was operator error. I need to reevaluate my riding style with these smaller volume tires.

      The only issue I experienced was the sliders shifting on a tough grassy climb. Perhaps I didn't torque the bolts down enough. I'll keep an eye on it.

      Here are some crappy pics from today.





    13. Member simple's Avatar
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      10-23-2012 01:55 PM #13
      Dammit! The $1300 price tag was too good. I just bought one so I can race in my age group at CX Nationals.

      If you can't measure it, you can't understand it; if you can't understand it, you can't control it.

    14. 10-23-2012 02:30 PM #14
      love the color scheme

    15. Member
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      10-23-2012 04:05 PM #15
      Quote Originally Posted by simple View Post
      Dammit! The $1300 price tag was too good. I just bought one so I can race in my age group at CX Nationals.

      Awesome!

    16. 10-23-2012 04:19 PM #16
      Those are awsome a buddy at work picked up the french flag colored one.

      I almost got the SS CXer but went with this instead. Really enjoying it, first 29er.


    17. Member simple's Avatar
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      10-31-2012 12:04 PM #17
      Got mine last night. Agree with everything A1an said about his. Haven't ridden it yet but tomorrow I'll take it out on the cx course.

      135mm wheel will fit. Haven't checked to see if disc adjustment will be affected.

      The seatstay bridge is stupid and limits tire size. The chainstay bridge isn't necessary as well. I'll be having a friend take those off. While he is at it I'm going to notch the frame to put a bolt set up so that I can add a belt drive. All that will ruin lots of paint so I'll probably have the frame re-painted to another color but leave the fork as is.

      The BB7 road discs still are pretty weak and heavy as **** but will suffice for now. I've got some older XTR disc that I might put on there if I go with a mtb handlebar rather than the road bar.

      The girlfriend loves it and thinks the color is really cool. I'm stoked that I can try this bike out, race it a little bit, and not be tied down to a really expensive bike.
      If you can't measure it, you can't understand it; if you can't understand it, you can't control it.

    18. Member
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      10-31-2012 12:26 PM #18
      Mine felt pretty weak as well which is a stark contrast to the BB7s on my mtn bike. Part of the problem was the brakes being out of adjustment. The other part is the brakes need time to break in. Mess with the adjustment on the brakes a bit and give the pads some time. Once that is done they should be good to go.

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      10-31-2012 12:29 PM #19
      On a somewhat related note...just put together a rough route to pop my 100 mile cherry with the LeRoi. Mix of paved, dirt, gravel, and single track. Scouting out part of it on Sunday and plan to ride the route the weekend before New Years. Time to ride out of this year in style.

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      11-01-2012 09:50 AM #20
      Quote Originally Posted by A1an View Post
      Mine felt pretty weak as well which is a stark contrast to the BB7s on my mtn bike. Part of the problem was the brakes being out of adjustment. The other part is the brakes need time to break in. Mess with the adjustment on the brakes a bit and give the pads some time. Once that is done they should be good to go.
      This. Disc brakes need to be bedded in before they get any power. As for adjustment, the way to do it on these is to get the pad as close to the rotor without rubbing as it will go. There's only one "piston", so it actually flexes the rotor over to contact the opposing pad. The less rotor flexing the brake has to do, the firmer the lever will feel.

    21. Member simple's Avatar
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      11-02-2012 11:42 AM #21
      Thanks for the tips on the brakes. Disagree on bedding in the brakes but the Torx adjustment seemed to help.

      Took the bike out to our local CX race course...happy to say this Civilian is a very capable race bike!

      The disc brakes were a noticeable improvement over my cantis (I took my other CX bike out also) and I especially liked the feel of them. You can tell immediately when the pad is grabbing the rotor and if you need a little more brake you just barely grab harder. With cantis it is more of a death grip or more of the front brake if you need more power.

      The geometry is good. The 57cm has a little more toe overlap than my custom DeSalvo but not too bad.

      The weight of the bike isn't too noticeable when doing laps. On a big run-up it definitely will be.

      I put Schwalbe Rocket Ron tires on rather than use the Kendas.

      The bike is very stiff which was great so sprinting and getting up to speed. Not so great on the really bumpy sections of the course but not horrible.

      Overall I'm happy with the Civilian for sure. I'll have new Iron Cross wheels on it next week so that should help with the weight. Probably will go through with my plans to remove the seat stay bridge and add the belt drive coupler.

      thanks A1an for bringing this bike to my attention!
      If you can't measure it, you can't understand it; if you can't understand it, you can't control it.

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