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    Thread: The "Official" DIY/FAQ MkIII Post

    1. Member jtdunc's Avatar
      Join Date
      Dec 7th, 2003
      95 VW Getta GLS
      05-06-2005 01:55 PM #301
      Center Console Lid Locked? THE FIX
      I accidently closed the lid on my center e-brake console unit in my MKIII Jetta.
      I didn't have that key as I swapped my tan console out for a black one. No key.
      If you get a long and skinny flathead screwdriver until the right (lock) side of the lid, you can carefully pop the lid latch out of the locking groove.
      You may crack some of the plastic under the lid, but superglue can fix that. No one can really see that it is cracked anyway.
      Grab a hacksaw file and carefully file off the locking latch in the console. Won't lock anymore.
      And besides, who are we kidding. Any screwdriver or sizeable knife blade can pop that lock anyway.
      This way you'll know you can get to your garage door opener or the rear trunk button without too much trouble.

    2. 05-11-2005 05:03 PM #302
      All information taken from- http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=1984018
      Try these steps:
      1) It is possible that the plugs in the back of the cluster are loose, check the connections at the back
      2) Do you have a clock and odo? If you can't see those either, it might be a fuse. Check the owners manual and replace the fuse if necessary
      3) Try checking the relays above the wiring harness
      4) Check your ground on your engine harness to see if it disconected, if it is disconected there will be no power to the cluster. Also check the grounds on the back of the intake manifold.
      5) Replace the speed sensor located in the tranny (8$)
      6) Last resort... take it in to your mechanic or dealership.

    3. 05-13-2005 02:54 PM #303
      For those of you who love having a cone style filter instead of an airbox, but hate having to deal with a K&N style filter (due to oil, etc.) I have a solution: Go to NAPA and get yourself a # 2726 PAPER cone style filter. Worked great with my intake setup and provided equal if not better performance. When it gets dirty, throw it away and buy another. They run about $26
      UPDATE: After running this mod for almost a year, I continue to be pleased with it. The maintenance has been nill. I recently switched to a new, freshly oiled K&N style filter just to see if I had lost anything. Car ran exactly the same so I switched back to (almost) year-old paper filter.

      Modified by brettpep at 9:34 AM 7-14-2006

    4. 05-22-2005 02:33 AM #304
      where is the D.I.Y. for Complete Dash Light Color Change
      the http://www.solidcreations.com link doesn't work anymore

    5. 05-25-2005 06:42 PM #305
      Quote, originally posted by DaveNY »
      How to fix your door-lock if you turn it and nothing happens, or it comes out...
      the following applies to the hook on the back of the tumbler breaking off on older A3's: it's not hard to fix yourself. the part that broke has been changed in later years, so, in order to "retro-fit" it to your car you need to go buy these parts:
      1HM-837-061-B "Lock Cyl" $12.21
      1HM-837-223-B "Eccentric" $2.27
      1HM-837-237-B "Trim Plate" $2.32
      So what you do is take off your door handle by removing the bolt on the side of your door, it lines up with the handle. Then slide your handle towards the front of the car, and pull out, it will pop out, now, put your key in, turn it a bit, and pull out the whole mechanism...key cylinder and the attached pieces (you may have to pull the metal piece that broke off. It's the sloted thing with the hook on the end. The hook is the weak part that was re-made, but the thing is, you have to change the cylinder because the old hole is to small for the new hook.) Now, go sit down and lay the parts out. You need to take the slats and springs out of the old cylinder and place them in the new one the same way. Use a pin to get the springs out. Place them in the new one in the same order and then grease it all up with some light lithium grease. Put the cylinder, spring clip, handle, and hook piece back together. I'd recommend testing the new cylinder before putting it in your car . It's really easy to do.
      The best instructions for a installing the rear foglight on a golf:

      Just to let you know, VW changed the part numbers a little on these...
      Lock Cylinder - 1HM-837-061-B
      Excentric 1HO - 837-223-B
      "Trim Plate" is now called "Carrier" - 1HO-837-237-D
      The numbers of the springs you may or may not need are"
      1HO-837-245 (Spring on carrier/trim plate)
      1HO-837-229-B (pressure spring that holds the hook into the carrier/trim plate)

    6. Member LilBlkCL's Avatar
      Join Date
      Aug 23rd, 2001
      Directly under the Earth's sun
      05-27-2005 10:00 AM #306

      Volkswagen Passat (B3) Dome Light Swap
      One night, it struck me silly - the dome light of the B3 Passat, this kind of one;

      ...fit right into the existing hole for the dome light on my MK3. The B3 dome light features the larger rectangular light as well as an angled map light for the driver. I had to install it.
      1. Remove the fuse in the second to last position in the fuse box. It controls the clock on the instrument cluster, central locking (if you have it), as well as the compartment lights. When I installed this I didn't, and the last thing I checked when diagnosing the problem was the fuse.
      2. Cut the wires leading to the MK3 dome light, but leave enough for you to work with. There should be 3 different ones, white/brown, brown, and black/red.

      3. You will need the connector for the B3 dome light from the Passat, so don't forget it when you are taking it out of the car and the wreckers. The B3 light has 4 wires coming out of the connector, brown, brown/white, red, and black/yellow.
      Match them up like so, with insulated wiring connectors
      ((MK3)) ((B3))
      BROWN ---- BROWN
      If you do not insulate the connections, they will rub and blow the fuse.

      4. Replace the fuse in the fusebox. Gently tap the B3 dome light into the headliner.

      5. Enjoy!

      1997 Volkswagen Golf CL
      2001.5 Volkswagen Passat V6 4Motion Beer/parts/material hauler
      2008 Volkswagen Passat 2.0T wagon wife's ride

    7. Member yeayeayea's Avatar
      Join Date
      May 29th, 2005
      So MD
      2002 M5, 2002 325Xi Touring, 1992 Toyota 4WD Pickup, 1995 gsx600
      05-29-2005 02:52 AM #307
      here is my ongoing DIY Turbo thread.

    8. 06-07-2005 01:01 PM #308
      Dan J. Reed wrote a really good how-to on the front brakes for n00bs.
      Direct link:

    9. 06-07-2005 06:34 PM #309
      Tired of your heavey suitcase (center muffler)? Try a NAPA# 22492 or WALKER# 22492 and have someone weld some pipe for you. It's a short resonator for a Nissan 240sx. It takes the place of the suitcase muffler, its about 10-12" long.
      I did this and loved it. I gave the info to a guy on the Passat forum and he loved it. Very reasonable solution cost-wise.

    10. Member Pats16vGTI's Avatar
      Join Date
      Mar 2nd, 2004
      South Jersey
      1975 Rabbit, 1978 Rabbit, 2001 Audi avant, 2010 Golf TDi, 2001 F250 powerstroke
      06-08-2005 07:39 PM #310
      DIY smoked turn signals::!@!:

    11. 06-17-2005 05:32 PM #311
      Volks specific and generic OBDII codes [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]

    12. Member jtdunc's Avatar
      Join Date
      Dec 7th, 2003
      95 VW Getta GLS
      07-06-2005 07:28 PM #313
      The Ultimate How To Replace Your Power Window Regulator Tutorial!
      Replacing That Broken Window Regulator
      Complete Tutorial with digital pix to walk you through the install. The primary source of this information: http://www.ohiovw.com/tools/regulator/default.asp
      I want to give them credit for their great work. I just added serveral observations and tips to make the install even easier. If you can turn a screwdriver, cut off electrical tape, and disconnect a wiring harness, you can install your own regulator. Don't pay a shop $200-300 to do it!
      If you want everything to work right and fit tight, it's a three hour job. I'd rather do it right than say I did in two hours - so don't rush. I just replaced my front passenger side regulator - so I wanted to share with fellow vortexers.
      Buy a $50 or 60regulator off of eBay. Some of the Taiwanese copies appear to have better designs than OEM and the OEMs are $110. For that price you could replace another regulator!
      Any questions, IM or email me.

      Modified by jtdunc at 3:34 PM 7-6-2005

      Modified by jtdunc at 3:54 PM 7-6-2005

    13. Banned
      Join Date
      Jan 28th, 2004
      07-11-2005 04:23 PM #314
      Quote, originally posted by Zwoobah »
      offsets are relative to the centerline of the wheel. a lower offset means the wheel will stick out the side of the car farther. a wheel with an offset of 0 (et0) means the bolt surface is exactly in the middle of the wheel, width-wise. if you have a wheel with a +45mm offset (aka et45), the bolt surface of the wheel is offset 45mm to the outside of the wheel's center (the wheel will be pulled in closer to the center of the car). If you have a wheel with an offset of -12mm (et-12), the bolting surface will be offset 12mm to the inside of the wheel's centerline (the wheel will stick out of the fender more than a wheel with et0).
      now, the problem is, the offset that will work on a particular car changes anytime the width of the wheel changes, because the offset is relative to the width of the wheel itself. for instance, a stock mk3 14x6" wheel uses an offset of 45. but my 16x7.5" Abts use an offset of 35, and sit in about the same location under the fenders as the stockies. because the whole wheel is wider, the offset that works on my car changes. basically, as you go wider on the wheels, you need to go with a lower offset to move the wheels outward, so the wider wheel doesn't hit your suspension.

      the other common misunderstanding is spacers. If you start with a wheel of et45 and add a 25mm spacer, you end up with a net offset of et20 (poking the wheels OUT further). it is physically impossible to use spacers to end up with a higher offset.
      hope that helps

    14. Member ewinston's Avatar
      Join Date
      Jan 22nd, 2005
      '95 Jetta GLX 'Go baby go'
      07-16-2005 03:04 AM #315
      A lot of people have asked about fuse and relay locations in the panel. I thought I'd post this up. Hope it helps [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]
      --== I'd change the world if I could but they won't give me the source code! ==--

    15. Senior Member Dan J Reed's Avatar
      Join Date
      Jul 26th, 2004
      NJ - AKA - Earth's armpit.
      Too many
      07-18-2005 04:23 PM #316
      How to add air horns, and keep your stockers.. I just did this, very VERY LOUD!!!! (Hella twin horn air compressor setup..)

      Left light, side marker flash mod...

      Right side turn signal marker flash..


      Modified by Dan J Reed at 7:15 PM 5-29-2007

    16. Senior Member 98DUB's Avatar
      Join Date
      Feb 21st, 2003
      Lowlife, WA
      MKIII VR6, Tiguan SEL
      07-22-2005 08:23 PM #317
      Well i finally got my seats in, i was going to sell them, but ended up doing the work needed to get them in. So here is a little DIY for all the peeps out there.
      First start with getting the little wheels to fit in the sliders. You have to ground down about half way. Also need to grind off the little "guide" wheels (at least i did). As well as shim the bolt that holds the seat-belt deally.

      After you get the seat to slide up and down the track freely, you need to grind down, or cut off the Front MKIII bracket.

      then get the MKIV bracket all lined up with the seat, and weld in place.

      Got one seat in, and moving....

      Then i grinded or sanded the welds a bit to clean it up, and added a coat of black primer to seal it all up. Then put everything back in and enjoy.....

      Better pics will follow when i get more time.

      Ohh and the car


      IG: @Kellen_

    17. 07-24-2005 10:30 PM #318
      mk3 front strut and spring replacement

    18. Senior Member Dan J Reed's Avatar
      Join Date
      Jul 26th, 2004
      NJ - AKA - Earth's armpit.
      Too many
      07-31-2005 11:32 AM #319
      MY DIY PAGE -
      Dan's Jetta/Golf MKIII Help page.
      How To: Front Disk 2.0 Brakes
      How To: REAR Disk 2.0 Brakes
      DIY - Parking Brakes
      Interior / Electrical
      DIY - Central Locking Mod
      DIY - Airhorns and Euro Turn Signal Mod
      DIY - Short Shifter - Cutting the Stock Shifter
      DIY - Installing Satellite Radio
      DIY - Installing a Satellite Radio Antenna to a roof mount Fuba base.
      Optima Battery Install
      Dash Cluster Diagnosis
      DIY - Front Speaker Install (again, no biggie..)
      Keyless Entry/Alarm Install Information
      DIY - Air Box Mod (w/Pics) (also good link)
      DIY - Air/Fuel Ratio Gauge
      Tech Info - Sensors and so on...
      Why I no longer use Bosch Platinum plugs and aftermarket wires
      DIY- 2.0 Cooling System Maint and T-stat
      2.0 Vacuum Diagrams
      P1582 Help
      Poly lower control arm and sway bar bushings
      DIY 2.0 Manual Gearbox (020 trans) oil change, and what fluids NOT to use...
      2.0 Shifter Help/Linkage Rebuild
      DIY - Custom made short shifter (for real).
      01M Trans Fluid change and Tips
      Side Molding Repair
      How To: Lower Glove box (96' and lower)
      How To: Lower Rad Support
      DIY - Debadge (remove emblems)
      DIY - Puttin' a much cooler emblem back on..
      DIY - Momo Pedal Install (hardly a big deal...)
      DIY- Fuba Gasket Base Install (Golf)
      A/C System Help
      Passenger side water leak on the floor with A/C on fix;
      Sites not by me, but good links.
      Where to buy "hot rod" VW parts
      "The" Book you need to fix your VW
      Free electrical schematics for most VW products
      MK IV "Look" Headlights install - Golf.
      Door card removal (Also how to replace the regulator)
      Great radio/stereo install directions!
      Tire Size Program Calculator (download)
      OBDI VW Blink Codes
      OBDI VW Blink Codes (Factory TSB)
      The DIY Group
      Toby's great DIY page
      T-Belt 2.0 Change
      Library of things GTI VR6 (A3/Mk3 & Mk4)

      Modified by Dan J Reed at 2:41 PM 6-16-2006

    19. 08-02-2005 12:17 AM #320
      mk2 and mk3 sstrut replacement

    20. Senior Member Dan J Reed's Avatar
      Join Date
      Jul 26th, 2004
      NJ - AKA - Earth's armpit.
      Too many
      08-05-2005 02:58 PM #321
      Hey all, just added a Glovebox to my 95 Golf. Its sweet.
      I used this site - http://matndahat.dhs.org/jetta/glovebox.htm - Read this first, there may be some legal issues
      Anyhow, I just thought I'd add a few tips for the DIYers.
      1 - No need to use a grinder, dremel, or torch to cut out the old knee-brace. I used some Weiss Tin Snips. Worked great with a few tugs from a pair of large pliers.
      2 - Make sure you reinstall the lowerairbag cover screws - they won't hold the new glovebox in, but you have to remove them to take off the old knee cover. They are 8mm, a deep socket works well on a 1/4 drive ratchet. You'll have to use the socket at an angle and crush part of the old knee brace. Don't worry if you change your mind, its will flex back. Reinstall these screws BEFORE you install you glovebox as it will cover these important bolts back up.
      3 - Make sure you get a LOWER glove box, not an upper one.
      4 - Expect to pay anywhere from $40-$90 off E-bay or here, make sure it comes with the color you want. They come is "beaver" (gray) and black.
      5 - Your key won't work in the "new" latch.
      6 - There is no light, you are on your own for this one.
      7 - The screw in the far left hand corner (lower) didn't line up on my 95. But I got 4 other screws in it, and its fine.
      8 - To drill the 3 holes, here's a secret. Open the glove box, and push in on both sides of the door to slip it past the bump stops. The box drops all the way down, and you can easilly get a cordless drill and a center punch to get the holes perfect, no double install like the DIY at the top of the post says. [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]
      Edit -
      By some cool twist of good karma for this post - MY KEY DOES FIT THE BOX!!! HAHAHAH!!!! See, good things can happen!

      Modified by Dan J Reed at 3:36 AM 8-6-2005

    21. Senior Member Dan J Reed's Avatar
      Join Date
      Jul 26th, 2004
      NJ - AKA - Earth's armpit.
      Too many
      08-12-2005 11:02 AM #322

    22. 08-18-2005 12:56 PM #324
      Here's a slightly better idea. Using any kind of pliers or even a wire puller will almost always result in a broken wire, and those things ain't
      cheap! Find a Long, thick flat-head screwdriver. place it at the bottom
      of the plug wire and use it to "pop" the boot off the plug. It might take a couple of tries, but it works like a charm. Pull very lightly on the wire to help if needed. Since space is extremely limited for even the smallest hands, The metal parts of the boots have little fins that stick out, place the boot on the plug as best as you can, and, using the screwdriver, push down on the boot to pop it on.

    23. Member mhjett's Avatar
      Join Date
      Oct 16th, 2000
      Northern Virginia
      '08 VW Jetta SE 2.5
      08-20-2005 12:05 PM #325
      Re-soldering the cluster to fix a broken speedometer
      Thought I'd post this up in case other people have the same problem:
      Last May, the speedo in my GLX started cutting out intermittently, like when I'd hit a bump. It'd come back, but then cut out again. I racked up maybe 400 mi w/ out it or the odo working at all.
      Back in early June, I took the cluster out and took it apart and put it back together w/out really doing much else. Put it back in the car, and the problem seemed to be gone. Then, in July, it'd cut out once or twice at random and come back again . It would jump around every now and then, or when I'd tap the cluster while driving, but wasn't cutting out completely. It's been doing that at random ever since.
      Yesterday I decided to take it apart again and see if I could find a loose connection or something that could be causing this.
      Found it! This big blue resistor was the problem. It's near the speedo; there's another one on the other side by the tach.

      The resistor wobbled when I pushed on it, and turning the cluster around, I saw the solder on both of it's posts was cracked.
      It's the two posts right in the middle here. You can kind of see a ring around the top one, where the solder was broken:

      Here's a couple pics after I re-soldered both the posts:

      I've never soldered a board but it turned out well. So far, so good. Needle doesn't jump around anymore when I tap the cluster. I'm real happy I found this, and that I didn't pay $300 or something for a new cluster...

      Edit: A year after doing this, my tach started cutting out again. Took the cluster out again, and touched up the solder on the pins of the wiring harness connectors on the circuit board, and that solved it. No pics though.

      Modified by mhjett at 12:04 AM 6-25-2007
      2008 VW Jetta SE 2.5 [current]
      1995 VW Jetta GLX VR6 [07.2003 - 03.2012]

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