Username or Email Address
Do you already have an account?
Forgot your password?
  • Log in or Sign up

    VWVortex


    Page 13 of 14 FirstFirst ... 391011121314 LastLast
    Results 421 to 455 of 490

    Thread: The "Official" DIY/FAQ MkIII Post

    1. 09-04-2006 07:36 AM #421
      How to align your beam rear axle VW.


      http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=2795263


      -T-

      I'm really just here for the pancakes.
      I'm Sorry Hachi... I love you.

    2. 09-09-2006 03:24 PM #422
      any DIYs for changing a clutch?

    3. Member Massboykie's Avatar
      Join Date
      Aug 15th, 2006
      Location
      Natick, MA
      Posts
      1,512
      Vehicles
      2002 Audi A6 2.7T, 2006 Audi A4 2.0T Avant
      09-19-2006 10:27 AM #423
      Below is a link to a DIY to modify the VR6 PCV valve one the Jetta GLX or GTI (AAA) after mine tore off. (hose and valve fits between valve cover and air intake hose)

      Hopefully it will save people some money. Been on my car for about 3 months now, works like a charm. Idling has stabilised (the tear caused a vacuum leak) and no more oil dripping over the exhaust manifold!

      I made it up as a PDF so it can be downloaded and saved.
      http://www.vaglinks.com/Docs/VW/MKIII/VR6/AAA/VW_1998_VR6_GTI-JETTA_PCV_Modification.pdf

      Cheers
      Massboykie


      Modified by Massboykie at 10:22 AM 12-28-2006

      2002 Audi A6 2.7T 6spd, TrueFlow DI,ECS N75,110s,UUC,GIAC-X,034 NS,APR Catback & Snub,UR,Hotchkis,H&R
      2006 Audi A4 Avant 2.0T 6spd,K&N DI,STaSIS Catback,Forge DV
      http://www.VAGLinks.com - 1800+ VAG Links!
      http://www.PlanetVAG.com - VAG Only Search Engine!

    4. Member
      Join Date
      Oct 14th, 2005
      Location
      NJ ALL DAY.
      Posts
      2,736
      09-22-2006 02:48 PM #424
      The airbox/intake modification:

      Enjoy the noticeable performance from these modifications. My track times prove it. I did this for the performance of course, but the sound that comes with it is unbelievable. You will have heads turning left and right when they hear it. There is no other naturally aspirated 12V VR6 that I have heard that sounds as incredible as this. Good luck.

      To prove the gains for this airbox modification, I provided a link of my dyno with such minimal modifications (http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=2899452). My track times prove that modifying the airbox is the way to go on these cars. (14.5@96mph with a terrible 2.31 60ft)

      Best bang for the buck is as follows...

      Let me say that you are almost definitely losing power with a cone filter, instead of the airbox in place because you are sucking in hot air from the motor. Cone filters work in either a cold air intake or when being used with a heat shield. To further prove to you the power loss of a cone filter in place of an airbox, here is a dyno test from Techtonics Tuning of an open-element conical filter versus an airbox. There is quite a drastic loss in power with the conical filter. http://www.techtonicstuning.co...7.JPG

      First, buy a K&N (or ITG) drop-in panel filter.

      What I did, and what many others do, is modify the stock airbox. All you really need is a dremel, or maybe a utility knife, if that may work [I used a dremel].

      Next, is cutting out part of the front/fender side of the airbox. I used a ruler and straight blade to slightly draw out where I wanted to cut exactly. I used many of the airbox’s lines to cut the cleanest looking cut. Those who say to swiss cheese doesn't make sense when you can just cut a whole clean piece from the airbox. It will flow better air and look much more professional/clean. You honestly can't tell the airbox is modified if you do it in this manner.

      Here is my setup.


      Here with K&N panel filter inside...


      In the upper airbox, there is a duct in the upper section of the airbox that I removed. Notice the difference in diameter after removing the duct. Quite bigger and it also sucks more air in from the whole panel, rather than a portion before.

      To remove air duct, take two flatheads and stick in between the duct and upper airbox, unplugging the tabs. Leave the flatheads in there after unplugging the tabs. Then, take small pliers and grab a nice hold of the duct and pull out with some force.

      NOTICE: Some people say this duct basically acts like a velocity stack and that it helps directs air to the MAF. Not sure how much it helps or doesn't, however, I still opted to take it out. I'm willing to sacrifice this piece by looking at the bore of the intake afterwards.


      With the duct in the upper airbox...


      Without the air duct...Notice the difference?


      And the velocity stack removed from the airbox.


      Remove this plastic honeycomb piece from the MAF. It's there to give the MAF the most accurate readings, but I’ve been running without this piece for a long time without any problems. If anything, it helped.
      Take the following from someone on the 300zxclub.com forums:

      "Removing the mesh on ya mass airflow sensor (MAS) will up the boost on turbo'd vehicles a couple pounds....this allows for more air to enter with less restriction...did this on my skyline...probably do some good for NA too.

      But... the mesh is there for a reason....the mesh channels the air through the MAS and onto the sensor...without it, there is an argument that the sensor may be getting an incorrect reading...but it worked for me....its up to you...

      On the 300ZX if you do the mesh removal, you will increase air volume from 300cfm to about 700cfm. It will increase your boost and your responce, and will get rid of most of your hesitation problems...... oh, and it should lean her out a bit too, good for those of you with hight boost.
      And iv'e seen articles where LS1's are being dyno tuned with the mesh removed."



      That plastic piece removed gives you a straight through MAF…


      Remove this duct from the front of the airbox. This piece is pointless now that the airbox is opened up and there is no velocity sucking air from it anymore. It just blocks air from the front of the airbox now. If it wasn’t cut open, then this duct would makes sense. I removed it completely.


      Remove this piece from the fender area. There is no point of it now that the duct is removed. It also gives a little more air from the fender area.


      And the result of that being removed is more air from the fender area…


      And some shots of how the airbox sits…





      Modified by Breezy. at 12:27 AM 2-8-2007


    5. Member Georgie M3's Avatar
      Join Date
      Jul 19th, 2006
      Location
      Yonkers NY
      Posts
      308
      Vehicles
      95 GTI 2.0
      10-03-2006 03:46 PM #425
      I baught a 1995 golf auto 2.0 bout 2 years ago. After about a month sometimes the gears didn't want to change. It would stay stuck in second or third. When going uphill the car would get stuck in gear, and id have to shut off the car and start it again. So before deciding that the tranny was blown or anything to that nature, i went to pepboys and baught a bottle of lucas transmission treatment. (The big bottle) Unfortunately, i couldn't find a cap or anything to pour it into.... You can still do it..

      1)Make sure your car is cold (sat over-night) this will blend the lucas well with your current transmission fluid.

      2) Take a razor blade and cut the cap of the bottle (dont cut too much, cause it will come pouring out too fast)

      3) Remove the transmission dipstick. (NOT THE OIL DIPSTICK).. The transmission dipstick is smaller then the oil one.

      4) Take top of bottle where you cut, and place it inside of the dipstick transmission line.

      5) Squeeze the bottle slowly. It should start pouring in. Squeezing it too hard will cause the lucas treatment to leak out.

      6) After about 5 mins you will notice some of the fluid leaking out from the side of the dipstick tube. Dont be scared. It slowly pours its way down. Remember, the fluid is very thick, so it takes some time to get down there.

      7) Pour entire contents in. Squeezing the bottle slowly from time to time.

      Should take about 10-15 mins..

      When the bottle is empty, put the transmission dipstick back and start the car. Let the car warm up and then take it for a test run.
      I didn't see an immediate result, It took about an hour for the lucas to completely blend with the transmission fluid. The next day - the present i noticed my car wasnt getting stuck into gear, went uphill more smoothly, and shifted smoothly even during a heatwave in the summer.

      Try this before considering ur transmission toast..

      This is to my own knowledge and experiance. It might or might not work for you. But if it does work, kudos to you.. You just solved your problem for 8-9 dollars


      Modified by Georgie M3 at 1:28 PM 10-3-2006


    6. Member lazyace's Avatar
      Join Date
      Apr 16th, 2006
      Posts
      811
      Vehicles
      1995 VR6 Jetta, 1999 VR6 Golf
      10-05-2006 01:50 PM #426
      Can you add this shifter DIY ?

      http://forums.vwvortex.com/zer...69867

      Thanks,


    7. Member cjslapshot's Avatar
      Join Date
      Dec 22nd, 2005
      Location
      Stirling, NJ
      Posts
      6,290
      Vehicles
      93 Passat VR6
      10-09-2006 10:47 PM #427
      the switch for my 96 golf is right under the e-brake leaver... take the console apart and you will see that there is a small button that is pushed when your e-beake is down. this turns your lights on. just move it or cut the wire.

    8. Member nfx's Avatar
      Join Date
      Jul 18th, 2004
      Location
      MD
      Posts
      4,700
      Vehicles
      MK3 2.0T, 2013 Elantra GT
      10-31-2006 07:22 PM #428
      cluster needle swap diy with pics and video
      http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=2906010
      2.0T... it's back!

    9. Member romayayo's Avatar
      Join Date
      May 16th, 2004
      Location
      Queens NY
      Posts
      3,857
      Vehicles
      00 Jetta, 95 Jetta, e36 318, 89 Fox Coupe, 91 Jetta Coupe, 96 Golf, 03 GTI 1.8T Present
      11-02-2006 10:07 PM #429
      anyone has a DIY on how to install
      a euro bumper , euro rad support and a euro re-bar ?

      thanks alot guys

      Reddit ಠ_ಠ
      RIP Felix. 07.16.2012
      You left us too soon, miss you and love you!

    10. 11-11-2006 01:30 AM #430
      I was told there is a DIY somewhere on here about how to wire the keyless entry module, is there one, and if so where could I find it?

      Thanks


    11. 12-18-2006 03:20 PM #431
      On my 2.0 16v swap I got rid of AC and PS and I used a MkII manual steering rack with Canadian MkIII manual steering tierods. When you get the steering rack, you'll also need the universal shaft that goes between it and the steering column. I also have a 5 lug plus suspension setup on mine, so everything is bolt-on regardless of wether you have a 4cyl, or a VR. The tierods should be available in the States too since they're "NA market", it's not some "part unavailable Euro bullsh.."

      Here's the part list:

      191 419 063 C: MkIII steering rack
      191 419 063 B: MkII steering rack if you can't get the MkIII one.
      1H1 419 952: Lower universal shaft (top part is the same on all MkIII)
      191 419 951: That's the one piece MkII universal shaft like I used if you can't find the correct MkIII part.
      1H0 419 803 / 804: L/R manual steering tierods
      191 419 875: You'll need a second clamp strap like the one you already have on the PS rack.
      191 419 831: Manual rack boots

      If you don't have AC, just ditch the v-belt and you're good to go... If you're deleting AC, then just use the AC delete belt for your application. About VR's I have no clue because they use the serpentine to drive the PS pump. If somebody figured out a length and part number, please PM me... I'll add the info.

      Hope that helps.


      Modified by G60syncro at 3:25 PM 12-18-2006


      Modified by G60syncro at 3:43 PM 12-22-2006


    12. 12-20-2006 03:09 PM #432
      can somebody send me a link or some pictures on how to remove the front grill and replace it with a badgeless?

      Please n thank you


    13. Member FlyersFn32's Avatar
      Join Date
      May 14th, 2004
      Location
      Reading/Lancaster PA
      Posts
      2,529
      Vehicles
      1991 VW Corrado VR6 (swapped), 1996 VW Jetta
      12-21-2006 09:27 PM #433

    14. Member koston.'s Avatar
      Join Date
      Aug 20th, 2003
      Location
      Smell you laterville, Bellevue WA
      Posts
      5,928
      Vehicles
      1996 VW GTI, 2005 Forester XT
      12-30-2006 06:20 AM #434
      The dealer has new plastic dip stick tubs in stock for your ABA. Part Number - 053-103-663 $2.52 of good preventative maintenence.
      Shutup and drive yo cah'!

    15. Global Moderator David@vwvortex's Avatar
      Join Date
      Oct 7th, 1999
      Location
      No. Virginia
      Posts
      19,375
      Vehicles
      '04 R32/83 Rabbit GTI/13.5 Jetta GLI
      01-02-2007 12:28 PM #435
      All VAG paint code information courtesy of OhioBenz.

      http://www.uniquecarsandparts....i.htm


    16. Member japoipnoi's Avatar
      Join Date
      Oct 31st, 2005
      Location
      Houston, TX
      Posts
      1,286
      Vehicles
      08 VW Rabbit
      01-14-2007 03:58 PM #436
      Dead link, can you repost?

    17. 01-15-2007 03:01 PM #437
      MAKE YOUR OWN INTAKE!!!
      k guys so i've decided to post on how to make your own intake if ya don't wanna just throw on a fat filter onto a stubby lil rubber hose. Pics of mine are here: (sick huh?)
      Now first you need to get a filter and a pipe. I used a pipe and filter my buddy had on his vr6 and just cut it down a bit. The filter i have on mine is about 6-8 inches long and the pipe can pretty much be as long as you want. What originally happened was the hose that runs from my maf to the rest of the engine ripped and was making my car run like ass when it would open up..... so what you do is cut off the end of the hose with one rib left close to the engine. take out the stock airbox and all that fancy junk. You should have a pretty big area to work with once that is out. Next you want to shove the maf into the end of the hose that you cut off up by the engine. If you cut the tube too short then you may have to cut out a little piece of rubber that is sticking up in the tube in order to shove the maf in there. (Cutting it out does not hinder anything performancewise or otherwise w/ your car. I still don't have the time to find out what it is) Put a hose clamp over the hose first and then shove the maf in. This may take a little work but it will go in eventually. Obviously you then secure the hose clamp next. After you have the maf hooked into the tube you can start on the filter and the pipe.. I chose a 3 inch pipe for better flow but you can use almost anything you want. There are also a few options with filter placement..... you can make a ram air by relocating the charcoal box and shoving it down through that hole or you can do it howver yu want... hell run it to the back of the car lol. what i did was put a bend almost right at where the filter sits and poked it through the hole in the right side of the fender. Had to cut the hole a bit but it worked. From there i made a little holder out of some wire, unscrewed one of the bolts holding the fender on and wrapped the wire around the screw and screwed it back down. To mate the massive 3 inch pipe to the maf i just went to auto zone and bout an 8 dollar polyurethane sleeve with clamps and clamped one end to the maf and the other over the pipe. This is probably the best way at least I can see to do this as after i put the maf closer to the engine it seemed like i had a more crisp throttle response and that it idled alot smoother but that was most likely just from the intake. Now there is another way you can do this and it takes like two minutes. I first had my engine like this and it worked alright actually. Take the top off of the filter box and the filter out. Use the same 6-8 inch filter and kind of jam it into the filter box. You may be able to cut it down w/ a sawz all or something and you may wanna secure it down there with a piece of wire. If you have the right filter (like i said came off a vr6 corrado) it won't move in that box even w/out somethin holding it down. Let me know if anybody else tries it and how it works for you!

      ian


      Modified by iansjetta at 12:02 PM 1-15-2007


      Modified by iansjetta at 6:10 PM 1-15-2007


    18. Member azn's Avatar
      Join Date
      Oct 20th, 2006
      Location
      East and West
      Posts
      6,518
      Vehicles
      08 NS Capital, 04+ Bianchi Pista, 06 Transition Dirtbag
      01-15-2007 09:23 PM #438
      omg, that's a long paragraph
      Cupcake - Team My Little Pony

    19. 01-16-2007 11:45 AM #439
      Breezy (and anyone else who may have modded their air-box),

      This part:

      Is NOT a filter. It serves to make sure that the air going through the MAF is going straight, so that the MAF meters the air accurately. Without it in place you run the risk of running lean or rich. The rest of the mod is cool and I'll be doing it soon, but that screen is important to metering the air.


    20. 01-18-2007 12:59 PM #440
      woops.... probably shoulda used tab and enter some more

    21. 01-19-2007 09:30 PM #441
      link don't work for me
      repost?

    22. Member lagolfadel97's Avatar
      Join Date
      Jan 15th, 2007
      Location
      arecibo,puerto rico
      Posts
      1,441
      Vehicles
      97 golf jazz 2.0L
      02-01-2007 07:54 PM #442
      how to open mk3 angel eyes to clean on the inside they're foggy and dirty
      Green Hornet

    23. 02-06-2007 09:15 AM #443
      I remade the swiss cheese tut in alot more detail and tons more pics. :]

      http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3063843


    24. 02-06-2007 01:24 PM #444
      **** DIY Figuring out tire fit and size for look or purpose. ****

      I posted this in a reply to someone in the MK1 forums, so I figured I'd post here as well.

      Why play the guessing game though? Instead of asking for pictures or comparing other people's sizes, just use some cold hard math to figure out which tire is which size. Here is how to find the size of a sidewall exactly and even how tall a tire is overall. Plus figure out, will if mushroom out from my rim, or will is stretch on my rim?


      Lets say you have tire:

      *** 195/40R14 ***

      195 = The tread width measurement in millimeters from sidewall to sidewall (while the tire is unloaded/off the rim) = 195mm (7.68")
      Meh, that's decent width. Now I need to ask myself, do I have an 8" wide rim that this is going to stretch on, or do I have a 7" wide rim this is going to bubble out on?

      40 = The aspect ratio of treadwidth to sidewall, where the sidewall = 40% the treadwidth. In this case 40% of 195mm = 78mm (3.07")
      Now we know this sidewall is a 3" rubber band. Keeping the stretching above in mind, if you stretch a wheel the sidewall will be the same height, but wheel height from ground to top is now slightly shorter due to the angle. Oooh cheap "lowering".

      14 = Well of course we all know this is the size of the rim diameter. 14"

      How tall is this tire over all?
      Double the sidewall and add in the diameter of the rim.
      (2 x 3.07") + 14" = 20.14" tall


      ************************************************** ********************************
      Conversion help:

      http://www.worldwidemetric.com/metcal.htm
      (Just type in the measurement you have and hit Calculate, it will fill in all the rest.)

      Or just use google and type something like "195mm to inches"
      ************************************************** ********************************

      For more details on this, here are a few sites I found that list more on this.

      http://truckworld.tenmagazines...cat=4
      http://www.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/...h.htm


    25. Member mexdubber's Avatar
      Join Date
      Apr 18th, 2005
      Location
      Socal / Mexico
      Posts
      2,078
      Vehicles
      1998 GTI VR6 / 1979 Rabbit
      02-07-2007 08:01 PM #445
      VWDIY link not working

    26. Member
      Join Date
      Oct 14th, 2005
      Location
      NJ ALL DAY.
      Posts
      2,736
      02-07-2007 11:18 PM #446
      Quote, originally posted by ewaustin »
      Breezy (and anyone else who may have modded their air-box),

      This part:

      Is NOT a filter. It serves to make sure that the air going through the MAF is going straight, so that the MAF meters the air accurately. Without it in place you run the risk of running lean or rich. The rest of the mod is cool and I'll be doing it soon, but that screen is important to metering the air.

      Thanks, but like my DIY said, i never had any problems with it removed. if anything, it only helped. Remember, this piece pops right out, so you can always push it back in if you ever want to re-attach it. It is not a permanent modification to the MAF.


      Take the following from someone on the 300zxclub.com forums:
      "Removing the mesh on the mass airflow sensor (MAS) will up the boost on turbo'd vehicles a couple pounds....this allows for more air to enter with less restriction...did this on my skyline...probably do some good for NA too.

      But... the mesh is there for a reason....the mesh channels the air through the MAS and onto the sensor...without it, there is an argument that the sensor may be getting an incorrect reading...but it worked for me....its up to you...

      On the 300ZX if you do the mesh removal, you will increase air volume from 300cfm to about 700cfm. It will increase your boost and your response, and will get rid of most of your hesitation problems...... oh, and it should lean her out a bit too, good for those of you with hight boost.
      And iv'e seen articles where LS1's are being dyno tuned with the mesh removed."


      Modified by Breezy. at 12:55 AM 2-21-2007


    27. Member
      Join Date
      Apr 16th, 2006
      Posts
      882
      Vehicles
      B6 A4 Avant 3.0L
      02-18-2007 11:58 PM #447
      So I searched for the last couple days to find a DIY on how to change a VR6 alternator and came up with nothing so I figured now that I did mine I'd share how and save someone else the trial and error.
      Tools Needed:
      1/4" Ratchet
      3/8" Ratchet
      Extensions
      8mm deep socket
      16mm deep socket
      13mm socket
      16mm socket
      Screwdriver for hose clamps
      Hex key socket set
      Floor Jack
      board
      3/8" Impact makes it easier to get the motor mounts off.


      Removal:
      1) Disconnect battery.
      2) Remove tension from serpentine belt. This can be done using an 8mm bolt through the threaded hole at the top of the tensioner. After tension is removed, slide the belt off of the alternator pulley.
      3) Remove the serpentine belt tensioner by removing the 3 13mm bolts holding it to the side of the head.
      4) Disconnect the secondary air pump hose from the air intake, and remove the hex bolt holding the air hose bracket to the lower intake manifold.
      5) Disconnect and remove the section of air pump hose from the air intake to just behind the alternator.
      6) Disconnect battery lead from back of alternator by removing 13mm nut. Disconnect connector with single wire from bottom of alternator housing. Remove the wire holder from its stud on the alternator by removing the 8mm nut.
      7) Remove the two 13mm bolts holding the alternator in place.
      8) Unbolt front engine mount (16mm).
      9) Remove 13mm nut holding wire connectors in place on top of rear engine mount. Then unbolt the engine mount using a 16mm deep socket.
      10) Place floor jack under oil pan with a board in between. Proceed to jack up the engine until you gain sufficient clearance to remove the alternator from the engine. It will be a tight fit, but it does work so don't hassle with trying to remove the intake manifold.

      At this point, you have the alternator out of the car and either need to take it somewhere to be rebuilt, or you have a rebuilt one waiting to go back in.

      Reinstallation:
      1) Make sure that you have pushed out the shims (for lack of knowing the correct word) that the alternator bolts thread into on your new alternator. This way it will slide into place easier onto its mounting bracket, and you won't need to try and manhandle it into place.
      2) Re-install the alternator onto its bracket using the two 13mm bolts. Attach the battery lead and the single pin connector. Bolt the wire holder back onto the stud on the alternator using the 8mm nut.
      3) Re-install the air pump hose section you removed earlier, and bolt it into place using the hex bolt.
      4) Lower the engine back down slowly into place using the jack.
      5) Fasten the rear motor mount back into place using the 16mm deep socket. Place the wiring connector bracket back into place over it, and secure it with the 13mm nut.
      6) Fasten the front motor mount back into place.
      7) Re route the serpentine belt into place and attach the tensioner pulley using the three 13mm bolts. Remove the bolt to apply tension to the belt again.
      8) Connect battery.

      Now I'm not sure if I forgot any steps, so I apologize for any inaccuracies. Also, my car has a EuroSport CAI on it so if you are still using the factory airbox it might need to be removed for clearance.


    28. 02-21-2007 06:49 PM #448
      How to keep stock speaker grilles with aftermarket speakers:


      thought I would post this since I hadn't seen it before.. and I always hear people talking about not being able to fit back on the stock grilles.

      ok.... no matter what you will have to get a relatively shallow speaker.. both in the rear (not deep) and flat on the front (no protruding tweeter). <---lulz that sounds funny.

      I got these:
      http://www.crutchfield.com/S-D...wm=cl
      shallow mount and don't need a ton of wattage to sound good.

      so you get them.. they look good (you have to cut off the little "posts" that the stock speakers slip onto

      damn the stock grilles won't fit.. see where it hits?

      so you dremel that beeeyatch and take off all the extra plastic back there other than the tabs that click it in place on the far outside edge.

      don't have the door panels back in yet. but trust me, they fit.


    29. Global CSI Moderator nater's Avatar
      Join Date
      Apr 10th, 2000
      Posts
      31,921
      Vehicles
      2008 Passat 4Mo 3.6L Wagon, 98 VRt, 2010 Routan/Caravan :)
      02-24-2007 04:55 PM #449

    30. Member FlyersFn32's Avatar
      Join Date
      May 14th, 2004
      Location
      Reading/Lancaster PA
      Posts
      2,529
      Vehicles
      1991 VW Corrado VR6 (swapped), 1996 VW Jetta
      02-24-2007 08:58 PM #450
      Myths and facts about MK4 and MK3.5 steering wheels.

      http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3094202


    31. 02-25-2007 10:10 PM #451
      remote trunk release dont work ? any one know if theres a hidden fuse?

    32. 02-26-2007 06:43 PM #452
      im going to turn a 1996 2.0 auto to stick, i had trouble finding any posts on it, any one have pics/diy's? any help would be awesome, thanks.

    33. 03-04-2007 01:24 PM #453
      Where in the DIY can I find how to deramp and polish my obd2 throttle body?

    34. Member handsome_matt's Avatar
      Join Date
      Jan 28th, 2007
      Location
      Auburn, WA
      Posts
      147
      Vehicles
      1998 VW Jetta 2.Slow
      03-11-2007 01:20 AM #454
      Here's a link for anyone looking for paint codes on any model car.

      http://www.carpaintonline.com/


    35. 03-17-2007 01:05 AM #455
      is the rear fog light on mod for the golf the same as the jetta? if not anyone have a link to the jetta

    Page 13 of 14 FirstFirst ... 391011121314 LastLast

    Posting Permissions

    • You may not post new threads
    • You may not post replies
    • You may not post attachments
    • You may not edit your posts
    •