Tools you'll need:
-Deep Well 10mm Socket
-Non-marring trim removal tools
-Soldering Iron, wire strippers, desoldering braid or tool
-Small phillips head screw driver
Alright let's get to it.
Step 1. Open up the SmartCord to get to the circuit board.
This is done by unscrewing the screw using a small phillips head (found on the bottom of the SmartCord) and then gently prying apart the housing from the front sticker.
Step 2. Next we will de-solder the button and yellow alert LED from the SmartCord circuit Board.
These are all the leads you need to de-solder.
After this the button and the yellow status LED should be removed from the board.
PAUSE At this point I should start talking about the button we are using.
I couldn't find a pinout on the internet for the parking sensor button so I got out my multi-meter and figured it out myself.
This is what I came up with.
Note: The yellow telltale in the switch is a 5v LED and the red running light LED is 12v.
Step 3. At this point you should cut all the repair wires in half, leaving you with 6 wires that have a pin on one end and nothing on the other.
The end with the pin will go into the connector, the end with nothing will be soldered into the SmartCord Board.
At this point you should solder 4 wires to the SmartCord board. My wires didn't fit into the small holes on the board, so I used a dremel and carefully used a very small drill bit to expand the holes.
Note: If you are going to drill out the holes, make sure to keep some of the solder pad or you wont get a connection!!
Here is where you should solder the new wires to:
Purple: These leads will go to pins 4 and 5 on the connector to the switch
Green: This lead will go to pin 2 on the connector to the switch
Orange: This lead will go to pin 1 on the connector to the switch
Note: Disregard that there are still components on the board below, I forgot to take a photo of the board without anything on it. You must remove the yellow LED or the telltale in the parking sensor switch won't light, due to the voltage split.
What you should have after Step 3.
The wiring for the board is now complete. All 6 pins should now be in the black housing, and the black housing slid into the brown connector.
Note: At this point the wires leading to pins 3 and 6 should not be connected to anything, this will happen when we start installing the system in the car.
Step 4. It's time to head to the car!
We need to get to the screws that hold in the ashtray/coin tray/little storage area/whateverthethingscalled.
So, first step, use your non-marring tool and pry up at this ledge to pop up the shifter surround.
Next you are going to need to remove the two Torx T20 screws that you just uncovered. This will allow you to pull up and then forward on the tray to remove it. Don't forget to disconnect the ESP switch and the accessory outlet.
Step 5. While you have the tray removed. You can pop out the blank next to the ESP switch, and pop in the parking sensor button.
Step 6 A Now we are going to add the connections that will allow the button to light red with the headlight switch.
Find the white 22awg wire coming from the connector of the accessory outlet. This is the positive side of the running lights that we will tap.
Use a quick splice connector on this wire. This wire will lead to pin 3 on the parking sensor connector.
Should look like this:
Step 6 B
The negative side of the running lights, or the lead to pin 6 on the connector will be spliced into the 22awg brown wire on the ESP off switch.
Should look like this when done:
Step 7 A
Now we will run the main power and ground for the SmartCord circuit. Escort has provided you with a large quick splice for the power and a ring terminal for the ground. The quick splice will be attached to the red/black wiring coming from the accessory outlet connector.
Step 7 B
Now we will run the ground. This is where you will be using your deep well 10mm socket. If you look deep down into the hole below the tray that we removed there are two nuts holding something into place. Remove one nut and place the ring terminal under it and then tighten the nut again. Hard to see in this photo but the end result should look similar to this:
Note: At this point all the wiring is completed and your switch (if everything is connected) should be fully functional, you should test this before installing all the trim pieces again.
Wrap everything in friction tape so that it is insulated against other electrical circuits and is resistant to rubbing against other surfaces, this will also help against rattles.
Step 8 At this point you should route the phone cord to your detector.
This is done at your own discretion as different people have their radar mounted in different locations.
If you have any questions or the pictures ever go away feel free to PM me.