DIY: Foam from the A/C vents

[cazzz]

2004 Jetta GLI

I have been refurbishing the interior and reached a point where I need to install an 8" video monitor in the dash.

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showpost.php?p=78366197

Wouldn't you know that the dreaded A/C foam started spewing all over my very clean and very new interior.

I guess I shouldn't be too pissed cause the timing was perfect.

This thread will take you through a step by step process of removing the dash and replacing "EVERYTHING" that smells and is falling apart.

[cazzz]

Step 1 order all the needed parts.

I order all VW parts from keffervwparts.com because they offer great service and the best VW parts prices I have found.

Items Ordered:
Item: evaporator assy (includes the top portion of the airbox) MANUAL A/C
Price: $379.50
Qty: 1

Total (before taxes or discounts): $379.50

Item: heater core MANUAL A/C
Price: $138.75
Qty: 1

Total (before taxes or discounts): $138.75

Item: heater core gasket MANUAL A/C, upper
Price: $6.98
Qty: 1

Total (before taxes or discounts): $6.98

Item: heater core gasket MANUAL A/C, lower
Price: $9.45
Qty: 1

Total (before taxes or discounts): $9.45

Item: filter element MANUAL A/C
Price: $16.88
Qty: 1

Total (before taxes or discounts): $16.88

Item: blower assy MANUAL A/C
Price: $201.60
Qty: 1

Total (before taxes or discounts): $201.60

Item: lower cover MANUAL A/C
Price: $57.75
Qty: 1

Total (before taxes or discounts): $57.75

-----------------------------
Items Total: $810.91
Shipping Method: UPS Ground in the US
Shipping: $13.99
_________
Order Total: $824.90

The airbox needs to be replaced to fix the foam problem. The evaporator comes with the airbox and is the sources of the used car smell. Since I have the dash apart I am replacing the heater core because I don't want to do this again in a year when it starts leaking. The blower assembly may not be necessary but I want a new car smell and figure there has to be mold/mildew/crap built up on the fan so why not. And finally a new filter.

I chose to purchase all parts from VW and recognize that I could save a few dollars buying other aftermarket parts. But my type A OCD personality makes me buy the best parts I can. You know you get what you pay for and all.

Please realize I replaced the interior with new pieces because they were dirty, so bear with me.

My performance shop, White's Import Automotive, in Rockledge FL is standing by to bail me out if necessary.

Actually, the first step is to stop by the shop and have then vacuum out the A/C system and disconnect the evaporator at the firewall. They will seal the system under the hood.

More to follow when I get the parts in next week.

[cazzz]

There are several excellent threads already done for fixing this problem. I plan on going one step further by adding soundproofing.

My goal is to remove the dash once and replace everything to get rid of the old car smell, clean and sanitize all air ducts, and soundproof the front of the car as I have done with the rest of the interior.

Here is a list of links for each step. I will add more detail where necessary.

Remove the Stock Steering Wheel

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...s-%28moclov%29

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q0jZHRy3t1c

Removing the Interior Pieces

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?958556

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?967146

Remove the Dash

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?4180628

These are all great DIYs and I am not sure I can improve upon them, but I will show some differences as my GLI has a manual transmission and the GLI center console is different than the one in the DIY threads.

[cazzz]

To save you some time I am pulling out the need to know portions of the threads above.

Steering Wheel Removal

Removal of OEM steering wheels
THINGS YOU WILL NEED:
- T55 torx bit or 12 point bit (12 point can be obtained from VW, or from some auto parts stores)
- Torque wrench (one that will allow you to torque to low settings)
- small flathead screwdriver
- ratchet for torx bit
- extension for rachet and bit
- 10mm socket (to disconnect battery)
- radio security code (for earlier model year Mk4's)

REMOVAL:
- Make sure your wheels are straight and the steering wheel is appropriately aligned.
- Disconnect the battery.
- Insert key into ignition, and turn to the "on", but not "over" position (this will keep the wheel from locking).
- Turn the wheel 90 degrees to one side. You will feel/see a small hole in the back.
- Insert a small flathead screwdriver into the hole. Make sure the screwdriver is angled such that the handle is against the steering column, and the flathead is as high up within the hole as possible. Make sure to push the screwdriver in as far as you can.
- Pull up on the handle. What you are trying to do is push down on a small spring within the steering wheel that holds the airbag locking latch secured.
- You may have to try a couple times, but you will eventually see, hear, and feel the airbag catch release from the spring.
- Turn the wheel in the opposite direction 180 degrees until you can see/feel the second hole.
- Repeat the screwdriver procedure.
- The airbag should now be released from the steering wheel. However, it is still attached to the wiring harness. Make sure to unplug the harness from the airbag before you pull it out too far from the wheel.
- Place the airbag somewhere secure, with the padding side up.
- Disconnect the wiring harness from the steering column. If you look closely, you will see two indentations in the steering wheel, near the wiring harness, that will fit the harness connectors. Insert the connectors in the appropriate indentations just to get the wires out of your way (this is totally optional, but I thought I would add it).
- Using a T55 torx bit (or a 12 spline tool ... commonly called a triple square at some autoparts stores ... I can't remember the size, but Lisle makes a kit with four bits, 6, 8, 10, and 12mm), remove the bolt in the center of the steering column.
- Pull the wheel off the steering column.

INSTALLATION OF OEM FITMENT WHEEL:
- Push the wheel on the steering column making sure to line up the splines of the column and the wheel such that the centering mark on the wheel corresponds with the centering mark on the column.
- Clean the threads of the bolt. Put some new locktite on the threads of the bolt and tighten the bolt down.
- You will need to use a torque wrench to torque the bolt to the appropriate setting. Torque to 50 Nm (37 ft-lb).
- Use a center punch to mark the bolt. This should be done each time the bolt is used (the bolt has a lifetime of 5 uses before it needs to be replaced). You should see an already existing punch mark ... make yours next to it, but not so close as to be confusing to someone other than yourself.
- Plug the wiring harness into the steering column.
- Plug the wiring harness into the airbag.
- Push the airbag into the steering wheel making sure the locking lugs are securely fastened (you'll be able to see/hear/feel when things lock up).
- Turn the key off and remove it from the ignition.
- Reconnect the battery.
- Insert the key in the ignition and turn it "on" but not "over". If you don't get an ABS light, then you're good. Give it a little while.
- Turn the car off and then start the car.
- You will need to reset your clock, and on earlier Mk4 models, your radio will need to be unlocked with the security code (I don't have to do this on my '03, but your manual will tell you what to do).
- You will also need to reset your auto up/down window functions.

RESETTING AUTO UP/DOWN WINDOW FUNCTIONS:
- Make sure all windows are completely closed (all the way up).
- Get out of the car.
- Lock the car from the the outside by inserting the key into the door and turning in the appropriate direction.
- Unlock the car through the door.
- Lock the car through the door again. Make sure to hold the key in the lock position for several seconds (I typically wait until the alarm LED has blinked a couple times).
- Your auto up/down functions should now work again.

[cazzz]

Step 1: vacuum A/C

Today I had the White's Import Automotive vacuum out the A/C system. He also disconnected and removed the expansion valve.

Now the evaporator is free to be removed.



Parts have been shipped from Keffervwparts.com.

[cazzz]

Parts have arrived. Here are pics and notes.
Item: evaporator assy (includes the top portion of the airbox) MANUAL A/C





The airbox came completely assembled with the evaporator encased in the box. It also came with a new expansion valve already attached. I can see two doors completely covered in foam. I suspect this is the foam that is falling apart on my airbox. I think it might be a little more difficult to repair this foam on the original box. I also see that the new box is screwed together. This is different than the clips pictured in the DIYs listed above. There is also a new foam firewall gasket with the evaporator.

Item: heater core MANUAL A/C



Item: heater core gasket MANUAL A/C, upper



Item: heater core gasket MANUAL A/C, lower



Item: filter element MANUAL A/C



Item: blower assy MANUAL A/C



Item: lower cover MANUAL A/C



I was mistaken about this piece. This is the foam cover that is above the passengers feet in the left front seat. I will likely return this $60 item.

[cazzz]

Time to pull the airbag. Quite easy to release the clips on the back side of the steering wheel.

I pulled the connector out of the airbag.

I had three connecters to the steering wheel, the main connector, one brown and one black wire as shown below.

[cazzz]

Steering wheel removal.

T55 Torx bit. Note the alignment marks. Also my airbag has rectangular tabs which is different than the other DIY.




Steering wheels: there are two different manufacturers of steering wheels. They are identified by the tabs on the airbag.

Rectangular tabs like mine Petri.



Round tabs like the other DIY TRW.

[cazzz]

Dash is out in three hours.

[cazzz]

While I have the dash out I might as well do the following.

Rewire the fog lights in the Euro Switch, one for after market and two for headlight and tail light.

Install headlight leveling switch and run the wire to the engine compartment.

Run wires for aftermarket fog lights.

Run hose for boost gauge.

Install USB hub in glove box.

Install 8" LCD monitor in the dash

[cazzz]

Now it is time to loosen and/or remove the dash support.

I am following this thread, http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...&highlight=DIY

[EJPolaski]

hell of an undertaking you got goin there, i've been doing the same with the rest of the interior, but am reluctant to rip apart the dash. that new car smell will be worth it though

[cazzz]

hell of an undertaking you got goin there, i've been doing the same with the rest of the interior, but am reluctant to rip apart the dash. that new car smell will be worth it though

The dash removal was actually pretty easy. Just did it step by step from the service manual.

I am stuck on the heater core quick disconnects. I need to know how they work so I don't break them.

The dash support is loose, the coolant is drained.

Maybe tomorrow I can get the heater hoses off.

The the fun part, removing the entire airbox with the heater core and evaporator.

I haven't found any DIYs to replace everything. I did find a good one for the heater core though.

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...&highlight=DIY

[cazzz]

hell of an undertaking you got goin there, i've been doing the same with the rest of the interior, but am reluctant to rip apart the dash. that new car smell will be worth it though

The dash was straight forward. I didn't run into any problems.

[Einkaufswagen]

FYI

OEM heatercore
$53.20
http://www.germanautoparts.com/Volks.../Climate/114/4

$138.75 is rape

Awesome DIY though

Edit as soon as i get around to refreshing my Climatronic HVAC i will probrably post up the poor mans DIY on how to repair / replace the existing foam for hopefully under $100

[cazzz]

FYI

OEM heatercore
$53.20
http://www.germanautoparts.com/Volks.../Climate/114/4

$138.75 is rape

Awesome DIY though

Edit as soon as i get around to refreshing my Climatronic HVAC i will probrably post up the poor mans DIY on how to repair / replace the existing foam for hopefully under $100

Thanks for the link, I don't see any reference to OEM. I can pickup an aftermarket core for the same price locally. Anyway, I will get you some good pictures of the foam deterioration.

I will probably disassemble the old box and show some picks of the foam issues. I didn't realize that the entire door is covered in foam. I thought it was a foam seal around the edges, to my surprise the new airbox has foam over the door.

I will let you know what I find when I get it pulled in the next few days.

Any idea how the heater core quick disconnects work?

[Einkaufswagen]

Thanks for the link, I don't see any reference to OEM. I can pickup an aftermarket core for the same price locally. Anyway, I will get you some good pictures of the foam deterioration.

I will probably disassemble the old box and show some picks of the foam issues. I didn't realize that the entire door is covered in foam. I thought it was a foam seal around the edges, to my surprise the new airbox has foam over the door.

I will let you know what I find when I get it pulled in the next few days.

Any idea how the heater core quick disconnects work?

There is a metal clip on the fitting just pull it up (Or off completly) and then carefully work the connection off same way the radiator connection is usualy with the little metal clips and whatnot.

Germanautoparts to my knowledge only deals in OEM or OE parts actualy the core i got from them last time had a complete foam caseing around the outer edge of the core which i assume is for vibration dampening or somthing wither way it was in my old car and worked great for years 0 complaints. I also run G12+ only and kept the system clean and flushed.

I am in for

Keep up the good work

[cazzz]

There is a metal clip on the fitting just pull it up (Or off completly) and then carefully work the connection off same way the radiator connection is usualy with the little metal clips and whatnot.

Germanautoparts to my knowledge only deals in OEM or OE parts actualy the core i got from them last time had a complete foam caseing around the outer edge of the core which i assume is for vibration dampening or somthing wither way it was in my old car and worked great for years 0 complaints. I also run G12+ only and kept the system clean and flushed.

I am in for

Keep up the good work

Germanautoparts: Great prices I will look at them for my next order. I could have saved a bill or more.

[Einkaufswagen]

Germanautoparts: Great prices I will look at them for my next order. I could have saved a bill or more.

Yeah there absolutly awesome i get all of my OEM/OE parts there best supplier in my book.

[cazzz]

No small job. I am fortunate to have 2 weeks off and a three car garage to work in.

[cazzz]

Old airbox is out. For those that might be considering repairing the foam on the box, here are some pics.





Three of the doors are covered in foam.

The two that are falling apart are covered front and back. So, the only way to fix this is to take the box apart to remove the doors.

You cannot simply remove the foam because there are holes in the underlying sheet metal and the foam is needed to seal the door closed.

This foam is nasty. If you touch it it turns to goo.

I advise against replacing the foam. Buy a new airbox. Plus you get rid of the old car smell.

[tonyb2580]

damn i have this exact same problem.. turn on my ac foam spits out... when i get my garage i will tackle this.. as i miss that new car smell.. props to you for undertaking this... it is a big job.. but i will do like what you do and have a shop on standby

[cazzz]

This diagram is for manual A/C controls.

A couple of notes:

12/13, I don't see a need for these

5 seal. I should have ordered this seal. It did not come with the airbox. I was able to reuse the old one.

14 ziptie, holds insulation to the dash frame. Use your own ziptie.

39 ziptie. There is a large ziptie around the entire box. VW wants $67 retail. Haha. The ziptie does nothing accept add extra security to the bottom cover and secure a couple of small wire bundles. I might check Lowes just to see if I can find one. Not really needed.

24 grommet. It would be a good idea to replace this grommet. This is where the drain from the airbox goes through the firewall..

[cazzz]

Reattached the manual A/C control cables to the airbox. The are held in place by clips.



Green goes to the top.

Yellow is close to the front on the bottom.

Beige is behind yellow.

Adjustment is the same for all.

Turn the left temperature control and the right distribution control fully counter clockwise. The extends the cables full. Make sure the doors are against the stops with the cable fully extended.

After installing the clips, rotate the control levers and make sure the doors hit the stops.

Ready to install the airbox.

[cazzz]

[dubluv2003]

Holy goodness. This has been added to my favorites as a project that I will be doing one day. excellent.

[cazzz]

Airbox is installed and it only took 15 minutes.

If you followed the heater core DIY referenced above your dash support is loose.

You have to lift the support up.

I found that I could put the support pin through the lower bolt hole which gave me enough clearance to maneuver the airbox around the dash support. Once in the general area I reattached the support bolt on the passenger side so the support would be secure.

I reached under the airbox and guided the drain into the rubber grommet through the firewall.

I then moved the bottom toward the firewall until the lower bolt made it through.

You will need an extra pair of hands to hold the airbox while you start the nut on the lower bolt.

I then pushed the top of the box toward the firewall and repeated the nut thing for the upper bolt.

These are the two bolts beneath the heater core.

[cazzz]

Airbox is installed and it only took 15 minutes.

If you followed the heater core DIY referenced above your dash support is loose.

You have to lift the support up.

I found that I could put the support pin through the lower bolt hole which gave me enough clearance to maneuver the airbox around the dash support. Once in the general area I reattached the support bolt on the passenger side so the support would be secure.

I reached under the airbox and guided the drain into the rubber grommet through the firewall.

I then moved the bottom toward the firewall until the lower bolt made it through.

You will need an extra pair of hands to hold the airbox while you start the nut on the lower bolt.

I then pushed the top of the box toward the firewall and repeated. the nut thing for the upper bolt.

These are the two bolts beneath the heater core.

NOTE: if you purchased the whole evaporator unit there is a new expansion valve already installed. Leave this on because it fits through the firewall.

Now for the right side of the airbox.

Raise the box up until the hanger goes over the pin, upper right. Push the bolts through the firewall and have someone hold it secure until the nuts are on.

Tighten all four nuts and it is installed ready for reassembly.

[DustinInDFW]

This thread is awesome.

Dash removal intimidates the hell out of me.

[cazzz]

Installed all the duct work, four pieces, lower heater vents, upper defrost which requires you to move the dash support, the lower main duct and the upper main duct held in by two screws.

There is one wire harness connection that attaches to the airbox. It is easier to attach this before the center duct goes in.

Tighten the bolts holding the dash brace, install the struts on either side of the radio box. Be careful routing the A/C cables, green goes outside the left brace, yellow and beige go inside the left brace and above the heater duct.

Don't forget the mystery bolt behind the wiper motor. Now torque them all down.

Install the two bolts for the steering column.

Complete everything under the hood. Install the wiper motor. Install a new cabin filter. Clean the trim and paint with forever black. Install the rain guard, trim under windshield, install the cabin filter cover and the hood gasket.

Attach the heater hoses and add coolant.

Check the coolant drain to make sure it is tight.

Now I am done with the engine bay. Next step is to install the wiring for the airbox and secure the harness with zipties.

Then install the dash.

[cazzz]

This thread is awesome.

Dash removal intimidates the hell out of me.

I figured it was worth it to save $1600 in labor. That was my motivation.

[cazzz]

Installed sound proofing material under the dash.






If you haven't been following my build thread then here is some info on sound proofing.

The black material on the dash is Mass Loaded Vinyl. It weighs 1 pound per square foot and stops sound. When I pulled my interior I covered every surface, including the ceiling and sunroof cover, except for the floor.

On the floor I used the same material over 1/4 inch foam. This helps stop sound even better. I used this material behind the glovebox.

[cazzz]

The dash is installed and everything works.



From here I will return to mu build thread to install an 8" LCD monitor into the dash and a USB hub into the glovebox.

All this to run my Mac Mini.

[cazzz]

Moving back to:

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showpost.php?p=78366197

[banderillero90]

where did you get the evaporator and airbox assembly as a kit?