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    Thread: DIY: Adding Rear Footwell Lights to your Golf/GTI

    1. Member toasters's Avatar
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      05-02-2013 05:48 PM #1
      DIY: Adding Rear Footwell Lights in a Mk6 Golf/GTI

      I love the front footwell lights in my Golf and was a little disappointed when I saw rear footwell lights in my Dad's A4 and not in my Golf. When i discovered that the Golf/GTI already has the recess to install the footwell lights, I decided that I had to add them.

      There are a few different ways to add rear footwell lights. I wanted to install them in a way that did not require me to cut or splice into my factory wiring. I have had to cut factory wiring for installing the rain and light sensor and it is a pain in the butt to solder joints on the factory harness inside the car. I set out to make a wiring harness that required no slicing/soldering to the factory harness.

      This DIY explains how I made the harness and how to install the footwell lights. I used a kit from BoldSport and modified it to make it "plug and play." Hopefully this is helpful for anyone who wants to make these modifications.

      Parts (if using BoldSport kit):
      1. 3B0-972-712 (2) - Male Connector ($6.84 each)
      2. 1J0-971-972 (2) - Female Connector ($4.26 each)
      3. N-103-190-05 to N-906-845-05, 1.5m, AWG22 (4) - Trigger Wire ($4.49 each)
      4. N-103-361-05 to N-103-358-07, 0.8m, AWG22 (4) - Trigger Wire ($3.49 each)
      5. Cloth Webbed Tape (from BoldSport) ($6.49)
      6. Footwell light kit (from BoldSport) ($19.99)
      7. Zip ties

      Total Cost: $80.60

      If you were to make your own kit:
      1. 3B0-972-712 (4) - Male Connector ($6.84 each)
      2. 1J0-971-972 (2) - Female Connector ($4.26 each)
      3. N-103-190-05 to None, 1.5m, AWG22 (4) - Trigger Wire ($4.49 each)
      4. N-103-361-05 to N-103-358-07, 0.8m, AWG22 (4) - Trigger Wire ($3.49 each)
      5. N-906-845-05 to N-103-358-07, 0.8m, AWG26 (4) - Trigger Wire ($3.49 each)
      6. Cloth Webbed Tape (from BoldSport) ($6.49)
      7. 7L0-947-415 - Footwell lights ($12.99 each)
      8. Zip ties

      Total Cost: $114.23 (just buy the boldsport kit)

      How-To:
      1. Chop up the harness that you got from BoldSport. This harness is a C-shape. It is meant to be spliced into the existing wiring, run down to the driver rear footwell, and then across to the passenger rear footwell. Well, since running it under the carpet from the rear driver to the rear passenger footwell is basically impossible (and not running it under the carpet is ghetto), I modified the harness using the extra parts purchased to make this a super clean and professional installation.

      Chop the 2nd half of the harness off (where the wires exit the rear driver connector and go to the rear passenger connector).



      2. How look at all the parts you have to work with for the FIRST SIDE:



      3. Make the front end of your harness according to this diagram ("front end" is everything north of the seat harness connector):



      a. Insert male ends of #4 into #1.
      b. Insert female ends of #4 into #2.
      c. Close up the wiring connectors.



      d. Chop the female end of #3 off, leaving about 2 inches on the female end.
      e. Strip some bare wire off on the male end of #3.
      f. Chop up the #4 wires you inserted into #1 and #2, leaving only 2 inches on either side.
      g. Strip some bare wire off on these wires.
      h. Put some heat shrink tubing on the wire.
      i. Solder wires together using wiring diagram.
      j. Shrink the heat shrink tubing.



      k. Cover in cloth tape to avoid rattles.

      Your harness should now look like this:



      4. Make the back end of your harness according to the previous diagram ("back end" is everything south of the seat harness connector).

      a. Chop up the BoldSport harness so that there's about 34 inches of wire.
      b. Strip some bare wire off the BoldSport harness.
      c. Strip some bare wire off the female connectors from #3.
      d. Put some heat shrink tubing on the wire.
      e. Solder wires together using wiring diagram.
      f. Shrink the heat shrink tubing.
      g. Cover in cloth tape to avoid rattles.

      Your harness should now look like this:



      5. Take your parts out to your car and let's get ready to install!
      6. Pull up the lower door molding. This is clipped in really tight by 4 metal spring clips. Pull straight up. It takes some force. Just be gentle so that you don't break the clip or the clip housing.
      7. Remove hood release handle (according to this DIY: http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...RELEASE-HANDLE)
      8. Remove panel behind hood release handle.
      9. Unplug the existing connector in the front footwell light, connect it to the male connector of your new front end harness.
      10. Plug the female end of your existing harness back into the footwell light. Make sure it lights up again!



      11. Start running the remaining harness down the side, following the existing bundle of wires. Zip tie to bundle at various locations.



      12. When you reach the rear seat, you'll see the existing harness split. Half to the seat, half to the rear of the car. Follow the seat.
      13. This is TOUGH. Run the wires under the carpet and to the existing seat plug. Pull the wires up through the seat plug access hole.



      14. See the existing seat plug harness? Good. Unplug it. The bottom half of the harness will pull straight up. Pull it up as much as you can.
      15. We'll now be installing our new harness into the existing bottom half of the seat harness
      a. See the purple thing on the harness? That needs to be pulled out!
      b. There is one tab on each side of wide end of the harness. Pry those tabs up and pull the purple clip out.



      c. Install the male ends (#3) into the bottom seat connector (pins #6 and #7, doesn't really matter which wire goes where). Put the purple clip back and make sure it clicks.

      Good job! You're almost there. Now let's work with the back end of our harness.

      16. See the hole in the very back bottom of the driver's seat? Install the harness through that hole. Leave a few inches so that you can remove the light if you need to ever pull it out to change a bulb.
      17. Run the harness to the seat connector. I ran it under all the foam, and through the mesh wire bundle to make it look as clean as possible.



      18. There is also one tab on each side of the wide end of the upper seat harness connector. Pry the tabs up and unclip the purple clip. This clip will not remove, just pull out a few millimeters.
      19. Install the female ends (from #3) into the upper seat harness connector (pins #6 and #7). If you are using LED lights, check the polarity before you install the pins. If not, you can install them in any order.



      20. Close up the connector and make sure it clicks. Install the top seat harness connector into the bottom seat harness connector.
      21. Connect the footwell light and make sure everything lights up! Hooray!



      22. Put everything back together and enjoy your footwell lights and super clean install.



      23. Repeat for the other side.

      Comments? Suggestions? Need more images? Let me know so that I can take more images for when I finish the other side.
      Last edited by toasters; 01-30-2017 at 03:48 PM.

    2. Member Zyoid's Avatar
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      05-02-2013 07:02 PM #2
      -Obama Sucks-

    3. Member Verdomix's Avatar
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      05-02-2013 07:16 PM #3


      Did you get the 4 LED? or the 6 LED ones? Or are they not even LED? Im having a had time telling by the pics. sorry.

    4. Member toasters's Avatar
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      05-02-2013 07:24 PM #4
      Quote Originally Posted by Verdomix View Post


      Did you get the 4 LED? or the 6 LED ones? Or are they not even LED? Im having a had time telling by the pics. sorry.
      I actually just bought some red LEDs from superbrightleds.com a while ago when i first got the car. I think they're 6-LED lights. I got 4 of them at the time cause I knew I'd eventually add the rear footwell lights and want all the lights to match.

      I like the red because it's subtle when driving and compliments the overhead accent lighting perfectly.

    5. Member warchieft2k's Avatar
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      05-02-2013 10:37 PM #5
      Nice!!!!!!!
      NEW >> 2016 Golf R Lapiz Blue DSG
      OLD >> 2010 GTI DSG

    6. Member jni3's Avatar
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      05-04-2013 03:55 PM #6
      great thread. i wanted to do this a while back but totally forgot about it. thanks for the diy.
      2012 Jetta Sportwagen 4dr DSG TDI - wife
      2012 Golf 2dr HB Man TDI w/ Tech Pkg - mine

    7. Member toasters's Avatar
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      05-13-2013 08:45 PM #7
      Quote Originally Posted by jni3 View Post
      great thread. i wanted to do this a while back but totally forgot about it. thanks for the diy.
      I was on vacation and am finally getting to the other side this week. Let me know what additional photos would be helpful.

    8. Member toasters's Avatar
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      07-15-2013 12:56 PM #8
      Quote Originally Posted by toasters View Post
      I was on vacation and am finally getting to the other side this week. Let me know what additional photos would be helpful.
      I completed the other side over the weekend. The other side was pretty straightforward except I had a little more trouble routing the wires under all the foam in the seat. There were a lot more wiring harnesses under the passenger seat (not sure what they're all for) and I had to route the wires to the side and up the side of the seat. No big deal, just took a bit to figure out a good route.

      Also, I realized that wiring under the seat is 10x easier when you raise the seat up as much as it will go. Not sure why I didn't think about that on the driver's side.

    9. Member SilverJetta2.5's Avatar
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      03-23-2014 02:21 AM #9
      Great write up and thanks, I am working thru this little project myself. added the under seat drawers and the rear foot well lights. had to make a small adjustment with a file to the drivers seat to get the light to snap in, had a burr from the factory that was holding me back from snapping the light in. I decided to use Posi taps under the dash, to save a bit of money, and the nice thing about them is they can be removed as well with little damage. I also got the cloth tape. Word of warning to others, tape up the wires only when you are ready, when this tape bonds to itself it sticks!!!!! I messed up an a 6" section and one of my wires broke at the connector, had to cut new wires the tape would not budge even with force.. Cant wait to finish it up, waiting on the Posi connectors and the pins for under the seats. I also decided to run 20ga wire from the front lights to the plugs and still utilize the 24 ga wire that bold sport sent with the kit 2 the lights, I didnt feel safe running that lite of a wire that distance, dont want any issues. I also saw that in the plugs alot of larger Gauge wire terminated at the plug and went on to smaller wire to the seat stuff. And what the heck is all that brick a brak inder the passenger seat on 4 doors?!? again great write up..
      I may not be that low, but I sure ain't slow either.

    10. Member toasters's Avatar
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      03-24-2014 05:56 PM #10
      Quote Originally Posted by SilverJetta2.5 View Post
      Great write up and thanks, I am working thru this little project myself. added the under seat drawers and the rear foot well lights. had to make a small adjustment with a file to the drivers seat to get the light to snap in, had a burr from the factory that was holding me back from snapping the light in. I decided to use Posi taps under the dash, to save a bit of money, and the nice thing about them is they can be removed as well with little damage. I also got the cloth tape. Word of warning to others, tape up the wires only when you are ready, when this tape bonds to itself it sticks!!!!! I messed up an a 6" section and one of my wires broke at the connector, had to cut new wires the tape would not budge even with force.. Cant wait to finish it up, waiting on the Posi connectors and the pins for under the seats. I also decided to run 20ga wire from the front lights to the plugs and still utilize the 24 ga wire that bold sport sent with the kit 2 the lights, I didnt feel safe running that lite of a wire that distance, dont want any issues. I also saw that in the plugs alot of larger Gauge wire terminated at the plug and went on to smaller wire to the seat stuff. And what the heck is all that brick a brak inder the passenger seat on 4 doors?!? again great write up..
      Thanks for all the input! I've made a few changes to the DIY to help make this more clear for everyone.

      -I did have a little trouble, too, getting the light to snap into the frame of the seat. I used a screwdriver to press the tab on the light in to allow it to install.
      -I considered using posi-taps, but I have heard bad things about them intermittently losing contact and decided just to avoid it.
      -That tape is HARD to remove. Usually, I just use a razor blade to cut it away.
      -In the DIY, do have 22AWG running to the seat harness connector, and then the BoldSport uses 24AWG to finish. But now, I think I should have used 22AWG on the entire front half of the harness instead of mixing and matching 22AWG and 26AWG like I did. Good insight.

    11. Member SilverJetta2.5's Avatar
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      03-25-2014 03:20 AM #11
      Yeah hindsight bit me a bit today as well, I had never pulled the front lights to realize they too were wired with 24 Gauge, so the Positaps I ordered will not work at all, just going to splice in the best way I can thats clean. I had ordered the 20-22 Positaps so no way they will work on the 26 ga. The only time I have had an issue with them is in this situation, wong tap for the wire size. doesn't take much to do a bit of creative soldiering I guess. but agree now I have 24, 20, 24. Oh well live and learn..LOL I was just really surprised how little wire they give you if you want to run the wires like we did, I was hardly given 5 feet of wire on each harness after I cut them ( stupidly cutting the wrong wires so I had to solider the wires to the pin connector, lol) I have seen pics where some people got like 15 feet of wire. I had them temp hooked up with a spare battery tonight in the dark and they are amazing, I just need to order the LED 5k's to replace the bulbs all so they match the LEDs I installed in the door warning lights. Thanks for the tip on the razor blade, ill do that next time, my luck I usually cut wires as well,so since I had plenty of wire I played it safe.


      I do have one question, I tried today with no success how did you remove the lower half of the main harness plug from the tiny box it sits in, I had a heck of a time and couldn't get it to budge, connectors will be in later this week. Ill be soldering them as well, I have yet to find a decent crimper for these connectors, and leads on that as well??

      Thanks again for the excellent "correct way " write up..
      I may not be that low, but I sure ain't slow either.

    12. Member toasters's Avatar
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      03-25-2014 02:14 PM #12
      Quote Originally Posted by SilverJetta2.5 View Post
      Yeah hindsight bit me a bit today as well, I had never pulled the front lights to realize they too were wired with 24 Gauge, so the Positaps I ordered will not work at all, just going to splice in the best way I can thats clean. I had ordered the 20-22 Positaps so no way they will work on the 26 ga. The only time I have had an issue with them is in this situation, wong tap for the wire size. doesn't take much to do a bit of creative soldiering I guess. but agree now I have 24, 20, 24. Oh well live and learn..LOL I was just really surprised how little wire they give you if you want to run the wires like we did, I was hardly given 5 feet of wire on each harness after I cut them ( stupidly cutting the wrong wires so I had to solider the wires to the pin connector, lol) I have seen pics where some people got like 15 feet of wire. I had them temp hooked up with a spare battery tonight in the dark and they are amazing, I just need to order the LED 5k's to replace the bulbs all so they match the LEDs I installed in the door warning lights. Thanks for the tip on the razor blade, ill do that next time, my luck I usually cut wires as well,so since I had plenty of wire I played it safe.


      I do have one question, I tried today with no success how did you remove the lower half of the main harness plug from the tiny box it sits in, I had a heck of a time and couldn't get it to budge, connectors will be in later this week. Ill be soldering them as well, I have yet to find a decent crimper for these connectors, and leads on that as well??

      Thanks again for the excellent "correct way " write up..
      Once I unplugged the top half of the seat harness connector, I literally just pulled straight up on the bottom half of the harness connector and it popped right out. On my car it was super easy on both sides.

      I didn't have to crimp any wires since I bought everything pre-crimped from BoldSport. But, I would imagine that something like this would do the trick...not sure, though.

    13. Member
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      10-13-2014 06:57 PM #13
      This is available now: http://www.carsystems.pl/vw-footwell...409,id646.html



      Could do that, and just cut the wires where they go to the seat and install terminals for seat connector...

      I may do this...
      2010 Jetta TDI Cup Edition

      2001 Jetta TDI (retired @ 478,000km)

    14. 02-09-2016 11:19 AM #14
      hi there! I'm trying to do this job in my vag too, but I can't find the holes to fit the rear lights. Hope someone here can share a picture with the location of them. My car is a tiguan, it should be the same as this golf

    15. Member Orient Express's Avatar
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      02-09-2016 12:42 PM #15
      This DIY is very nicely done and sanitary, but IMO way too much effort and cost.

      I installed rear footwell lights with a kit I got on eBay for $25 (search for VW footwell lights in the eBay motors section), that had the housing, red LEDs, connector to the housing, and 10 ft of wiring. With that I simply ran the wiring from the seat bottom along side the seat wiring harness, down under the carpet, and up to the front footwell lights, and spliced the wires into the front footwell light wiring harness. It took about an hour to do, and got this result. Since they are connected to the front lights, I get the same behavior of left or right side lights coming on full strength when the doors are opened, and then their brightness can be controlled in the same way from the MFD when the car is in motion.



      Here is what an eBay kit looks like:

      Last edited by Orient Express; 02-09-2016 at 12:47 PM.

    16. n00b
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      01-02-2017 09:48 AM #16
      Hi guys & happy new year.

      Sorry for bringing this in the surface. I bought the same kit from ebay, but after instrallation, the light remain at the same level lit and they do not dim as they should via the MFD menu.

    17. Member Orient Express's Avatar
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      01-02-2017 10:34 AM #17
      Quote Originally Posted by ydinopoulos View Post
      Hi guys & happy new year.

      Sorry for bringing this in the surface. I bought the same kit from ebay, but after instrallation, the light remain at the same level lit and they do not dim as they should via the MFD menu.
      To make sure that the rear footwell lighting works like the front footwell lights, make sure that the new rear lights have bulbs or LEDs that are dimmable, and that they are on a circuit that can be dimmed by the MFD. The simplest solution for this is to connect the rear lights wiring to the front lights in parallel.

    18. n00b
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      01-02-2017 03:59 PM #18
      Thanks for the reply. the kit i bought is for all 4 seats and not only for the rear 2.

      Sent from my SM-T815 using Tapatalk

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