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    Thread: 16v FAQ: if you are new to the 16v forum, this is the thread for you

    1. 12-10-2002 12:20 AM #26
      Mostly maintence advice:
      Before you mess with the idle, timing, CO mixture, make sure or try:
      Your injector o-rings/shrouds are good, you can tell by spraying some carb cleaner around the base and if theres a vaccum leak the idle will fluxuate briefly. Or if you grab the injector line and wiggle it, good o rings will be firm, bad ones will wiggle.
      Follow all vaccum lines to their end make sure theres no leaks.
      Your broken dip stick funnel is a vaccum leak.
      Go thruogh all eletrical connections spray them with Wurth Contact OL, its a contact cleaner/enhancer.
      Clean your grounds with some emery cloth, and put dieletric grease on them.
      Make sure your Tune up stuff has been done within the last ~30,000 Miles Bosch plugs, fuel filter, decent wires oem bosch are the best IMO, Mann air filters are good, or make sure you clean your K&N when its full of crap.
      Some dieletric grease around the plug wire boots makes a better contact and lets you take them off easily. o2 sensor should be done every~ 60,000 miles.
      Most 16Vs run noticably better with a good grade of Gasoline.
      A bottle of fuel system cleaner ie Techron, by Chevron will do wonders for dirty injectors, and excessive carbon build up.
      Get a Bently Manual

    2. Member
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      12-10-2002 11:13 PM #27
      quote:
      Go thruogh all eletrical connections spray them with Wurth Contact OL, its a contact cleaner/enhancer.
      I prefer Deoxit
      quote:
      A bottle of fuel system cleaner ie Techron, by Chevron will do wonders for dirty injectors, and excessive carbon build up.

      Techron works well as a maintenance treatment, but Redline's SI-1 works better to get rid of a heavy buildup.
      --------------------
      John

      I'd stop drinking beer, but I'm no quitter.

    3. Member damion16v's Avatar
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      12-20-2002 01:53 AM #28
      Just a suggestion, but can anyone post the common ( and uncommon) bolt sizes on the engine? I ran into this snag as a newbie.
      Quote Originally Posted by Rub-ISH View Post
      I am now sucessfully motivated to get TED KENEDY levels of Sh!thoused and antagonize the antagonists...kudos

    4. 12-23-2002 12:41 AM #29
      Your better off just buying a complete set like 8mm to 22mm wrenches and 30mm socket

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      01-02-2003 01:19 PM #30
      16V head "spotters guide" - some shots comparing external features of 9A and PL 16V heads, to help you in junkyarding or if buying a loose head.
      http://w3.one.net/~rapieper/16Vheadcompare/
      HTH
      Ron

    6. Senior Member PowerDubs's Avatar
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      01-02-2003 01:39 PM #31
      Very nice Ron!! [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG] [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]
      -Josh
      Current VAG collection- 08 TT coupe 3.2 MT | 06 Phaeton 4-seater 6.0 W12 | 04 VW R32 | 03 GTI VR6 - all of them 24v VR6 based.
      Current other- 00 M Roadster | 12 Kia Soul 1.6 stick |01 ZRX1200R | 03 KLX400R | 00 XR200R

    7. 01-04-2003 08:50 AM #32
      In answer to: please post pics and explanation of sensors on 16v head
      http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=634038

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      01-15-2003 09:28 AM #33
      FIRING ORDER ON 16V: 1 - 3 - 4 - 2 COUNTERCLOCKWISE rotation

      Unlike all the 8v motors, where the distributor turns clockwise, the 16v is opposite, counterclockwise.

    9. 02-01-2003 03:35 AM #34
      This is further information on rebuilding the 16v distributor that I didn't see anywhere else before diving into mine.
      -----------------------------------
      Just wanted to keep this one alive, especially with people talking about no new 16v dist. available.
      I recently got my distributor back together with the new seal and thought I'd share a couple of things from my experience.
      First off, the volvo seal I had that I thought would work didn't. The O.D. on that seal was too big. I was however able to find an appropriately sized replacement seal from a local transmission shop (correct o.d. and i.d.). I believe the shop said the seal was from a GM manual transmission, from the gear selector input (or whatever you want to call it). I however decided to go with the Chicago Rawhide seal as the GM seal was not spring loaded (ie no spring on the inside of the seal, ya know like on the mainshaft seals.), and the C.R. seal is "proven technology."
      To get to the seal, the washer on the hall sender side of the dist. needs to be removed, but be careful! What people had failed to tell me was that the washer is knurled, and after the washer is installed in the distributor at the factory, the metal lip (part of the distributor body) overhanging the edge of the washer is then slightly pressed in. This explains why it was so stinking hard to get the washer out. I also wound up breaking part of the metal surround that was crushed in, but because of the knurling, and the amount of the rim/surround left the washer would still seat when all was said and done. Also considered not a problem due to the minimal amount of axial end-play allowed through construction (ie able to pull the rotor shaft away from and push back to the engine).
      The other thing I encountered was that the chuck that engages in the head of the engine is offcenter/directional. As such, it can only be installed one way (unless you want to time your distributor 180 degrees off from normal). The tab coming off the dist drive chuck needs to be on the top side of the chuck when reinstalled, with the distributor rotor referenced to tdc.
      I haven't ran the car yet, so don't know how well the reseal worked, but I'll find out soon engough.
      If I find this successful after a bit of driving, I might be willing to rebuild distributors for people (for a fee of course !).
      HTH.
      Derek P

    10. 02-02-2003 05:54 PM #35
      quote:
      Viewing from the front of the engine, the Scirocco 16v engine has the throttle body on the right side of the intake manifold ...
      My 1.8 8v CIS is setup the same way, do you know if the throttle body will match up? I wanna swap heads (and intake manifold) but only if I can keep the plain-jane CIS system. Can it be done??

    11. 02-05-2003 05:40 PM #36
      Wanna know the nitty-gritty about rebuilding a 16v? Check out my website, I update it often.
      http://www.marshallplan.org
      -Luke

    12. 02-25-2003 02:39 PM #37
      Don't know if this has been posted yet, but the part number for the Generic (Ford) O2 sensor is 13913. Can be found at most any auto parts store (in my locale, Schucks for example), and should be quite a bit cheaper than the factory or VW equivalent.
      I believe this comes from a Ford Mustang and/or an Escort.
      hth,
      Derek P

    13. 02-26-2003 01:11 PM #38
      Cams
      I thought I'd post this since there are often questions about aftermarket cams for the 16v, although I don't know how useful the info in this article is. If you look at the graphs, some of them don't look right. They must have remade the graphs to make them look better or work better for printing or whatever. Anyway on some of them it looks to me like the got confused as to what part of the curve was torque and what part was power. On page 3 the 2nd graph shows this; before the curve for the Kent 258s cross it looks correct, but after they cross the pink curve should be torque and the red curve should be power. Remember when looking at a graph that uses the same scale for power and torque the curves must cross at 5250 RPM. Although it is not mathematically impossible for the curves to cross twice, if the torque curve was rising like the red curve the power curve would be rising even faster, it would not be flat like the pink curve. All the graphs except the baseline are messed up in this manner. Well anyway here is a link to the story:
      European Car 16v Cam Test


      Modified by ValveFloat at 10:55 AM 5-6-2003

    14. 03-07-2003 01:52 PM #39
      quote:
      Don't know if this has been posted yet, but the part number for the Generic (Ford) O2 sensor is 13913. Can be found at most any auto parts store (in my locale, Schucks for example), and should be quite a bit cheaper than the factory or VW equivalent.
      Don't know if the Ford one is cheaper than this, but this seems like a pretty good deal.
      O2 sensor from Adirondack


      [Modified by ValveFloat, 11:55 AM 3-7-2003]

    15. 03-08-2003 09:53 PM #40
      This came up in a thread recently, and I think it will be useful as a part of the FAQ. A comparison of different 5th gears vs. final drive ratios, showing their respective RPMs at higher speeds:

      (Stock 16V)3.67 R&P, 0.89 5th =
      3715rpm @ 70mph
      3980rpm @ 75mph
      4245rpm @ 80mph
      Top speed(5th gear x R&P x 6000rpm) = 117mph
      (4K)3.94 R&P, 0.85 5th =
      3809rpm @ 70mph (+94rpm)
      4081rpm @ 75mph (+101rpm)
      4353rpm @ 80mph (+108rpm)
      Top speed(5th gear x R&P x 6000rpm) = 114mph (-3mph)
      As you can see, the difference in RPM is negligable, and will still allow for passing without downshifting to 4th.
      (4K)3.94 R&P, 0.80 5th =
      3585rpm @ 70mph (-130rpm)
      3841rpm @ 75mph (-139rpm)
      4097rpm @ 80mph (-148rpm)
      Top speed(5th gear x R&P x 6000rpm) = 122mph (+5mph)

    16. 03-12-2003 11:40 AM #41
      i rememeber them saying the dyno graphs were misprinted. either way a good read [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]

    17. 03-17-2003 10:10 PM #42
      Camshafts
      Always remember the Timing of camshafts when installing/removing camshafts, the timing marks are timed by aligning two dots on the left face of the sprockets. If you cant see the alignment marks or their off alignment check your engines TDC.
      I had trouble with this when my head was rebuilt, the camshafts where placed out of alignment.
      GLi : M3 : CX5
      OSD#2

    18. Member impulse byer's Avatar
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      03-18-2003 09:10 PM #43
      someone said that you could run two exh. cams dose is this make any more power or what.i have a extra set of stock cams if its worth any power ill try it
      Quote Originally Posted by prasina2 View Post
      I thought the steps were:
      1. Buy car you're unfamiliar with 2. Buy turbo, having no knowledge of turbos or cars 3. Buy bolts and bolt on turbo 4. Tow-truck drivers and mechanics profit.
      Did I miss anything?

    19. 03-19-2003 10:43 PM #44
      yes you can, you have to do some cutting I beleive, search on the first page of this forum.
      GLi : M3 : CX5
      OSD#2

    20. Member impulse byer's Avatar
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      03-20-2003 10:58 PM #45
      the
      quote:
      yes you can, you have to do some cutting I beleive, search on the first page of this forum.
      the link dosn't work can someone help me with this sence i have the parts already
      Quote Originally Posted by prasina2 View Post
      I thought the steps were:
      1. Buy car you're unfamiliar with 2. Buy turbo, having no knowledge of turbos or cars 3. Buy bolts and bolt on turbo 4. Tow-truck drivers and mechanics profit.
      Did I miss anything?

    21. 03-23-2003 07:34 PM #46
      Wow, excellent thread guys! Thanx for all the input from all you "Guru's"!
      This was just what I was looking for.
      I just bought my 5th VeeWee and am taking delivery tomorrow.
      It's a '88 16V Gli 5 speed.
      pretty solid but definately used as a beater in her earlier life. But, that's also why i got it for $1200.
      Two questions for you.
      #1. valve/lifter noise on the 16 valves. I had a 16v GTI that did ir and so does the car I just bought. Two shops (VW shops) told me this is common and not to worry about it. One problem, I HATE LIFTER NOISE!!
      Is it a cheap fix??
      Question #2 is in regards to gas.
      As I recall, the owners manual for my '91 2.0 16v GTI I had said you can run what ever you wnat for octane but for max perf. run hi test. I think I remeber "feeling" drastic differences between the two.
      With gas prices what they are now, can I run poop gas if I'm not beating on the car, i.e. trips etc??
      Thanx again guys, great thread.
      Gary

    22. 03-24-2003 03:07 AM #47
      the motronic engine management will retard your engine timing via the knock sensors if you run low quality gas under hard driivng where engine heat builds up. You will just lose overall power but you will be saving your engine from melting down...you should however use at least 91 octane for a good complete combustion due to the 16vs high revving and high compression nature. I know gas prices suck these days but if you want your car to run at its best, you just gotta pay the extra price ... just don't drive around as much if you can

    23. 04-11-2003 01:54 PM #48
      A G60 downpipe will fit a 16v.
      I bought one and it bolts up just the same.
      I am adding this b/c if you have a cracked and/or leaking downpipe, the G60 ones you will find for sale have lower mileage on them and are usually in much better condition than the used 16v ones.
      Good luck!
      2001 A6 4.2 - NEMO Blue
      1987 944 Turbo

      1988 GLI 16v SOLD

    24. 04-28-2003 01:10 AM #49
      If Motronic engine can be chipped, Is there anything you could suggest for Jetronics to increase its BHP....../

    25. 04-28-2003 07:28 AM #50
      Quote, originally posted by H2Zero »
      If Motronic engine can be chipped, Is there anything you could suggest for Jetronics to increase its BHP......

      http://www.jetchip.com/

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