Username or Email Address
Do you already have an account?
Forgot your password?
  • Log in or Sign up

    VWVortex


    Page 2 of 9 FirstFirst 123456 ... LastLast
    Results 36 to 70 of 294

    Thread: 16v FAQ: if you are new to the 16v forum, this is the thread for you

    1. 02-05-2003 05:40 PM #36
      Wanna know the nitty-gritty about rebuilding a 16v? Check out my website, I update it often.

      http://www.marshallplan.org

      -Luke


    2. 02-25-2003 02:39 PM #37
      Don't know if this has been posted yet, but the part number for the Generic (Ford) O2 sensor is 13913. Can be found at most any auto parts store (in my locale, Schucks for example), and should be quite a bit cheaper than the factory or VW equivalent.

      I believe this comes from a Ford Mustang and/or an Escort.

      hth,

      Derek P


    3. 02-26-2003 01:11 PM #38
      Cams
      I thought I'd post this since there are often questions about aftermarket cams for the 16v, although I don't know how useful the info in this article is. If you look at the graphs, some of them don't look right. They must have remade the graphs to make them look better or work better for printing or whatever. Anyway on some of them it looks to me like the got confused as to what part of the curve was torque and what part was power. On page 3 the 2nd graph shows this; before the curve for the Kent 258s cross it looks correct, but after they cross the pink curve should be torque and the red curve should be power. Remember when looking at a graph that uses the same scale for power and torque the curves must cross at 5250 RPM. Although it is not mathematically impossible for the curves to cross twice, if the torque curve was rising like the red curve the power curve would be rising even faster, it would not be flat like the pink curve. All the graphs except the baseline are messed up in this manner. Well anyway here is a link to the story:
      European Car 16v Cam Test


      Modified by ValveFloat at 10:55 AM 5-6-2003

    4. 03-07-2003 01:52 PM #39
      quote:
      Don't know if this has been posted yet, but the part number for the Generic (Ford) O2 sensor is 13913. Can be found at most any auto parts store (in my locale, Schucks for example), and should be quite a bit cheaper than the factory or VW equivalent.

      Don't know if the Ford one is cheaper than this, but this seems like a pretty good deal.
      O2 sensor from Adirondack


      [Modified by ValveFloat, 11:55 AM 3-7-2003]

    5. 03-08-2003 09:53 PM #40
      This came up in a thread recently, and I think it will be useful as a part of the FAQ. A comparison of different 5th gears vs. final drive ratios, showing their respective RPMs at higher speeds:


      (Stock 16V)3.67 R&P, 0.89 5th =

      3715rpm @ 70mph
      3980rpm @ 75mph
      4245rpm @ 80mph

      Top speed(5th gear x R&P x 6000rpm) = 117mph

      (4K)3.94 R&P, 0.85 5th =

      3809rpm @ 70mph (+94rpm)
      4081rpm @ 75mph (+101rpm)
      4353rpm @ 80mph (+108rpm)

      Top speed(5th gear x R&P x 6000rpm) = 114mph (-3mph)

      As you can see, the difference in RPM is negligable, and will still allow for passing without downshifting to 4th.

      (4K)3.94 R&P, 0.80 5th =

      3585rpm @ 70mph (-130rpm)
      3841rpm @ 75mph (-139rpm)
      4097rpm @ 80mph (-148rpm)

      Top speed(5th gear x R&P x 6000rpm) = 122mph (+5mph)


    6. 03-12-2003 11:40 AM #41
      i rememeber them saying the dyno graphs were misprinted. either way a good read

    7. 03-17-2003 10:10 PM #42
      Camshafts

      Always remember the Timing of camshafts when installing/removing camshafts, the timing marks are timed by aligning two dots on the left face of the sprockets. If you cant see the alignment marks or their off alignment check your engines TDC.

      I had trouble with this when my head was rebuilt, the camshafts where placed out of alignment.

      GLi : M3 : CX5
      OSD#2

    8. Member impulse byer's Avatar
      Join Date
      Mar 8th, 2003
      Location
      Georgetown,ON
      Posts
      5,264
      Vehicles
      98 5.9 Grand cherokee, VW other again...
      03-18-2003 09:10 PM #43
      someone said that you could run two exh. cams dose is this make any more power or what.i have a extra set of stock cams if its worth any power ill try it

    9. 03-19-2003 10:43 PM #44
      yes you can, you have to do some cutting I beleive, search on the first page of this forum.
      GLi : M3 : CX5
      OSD#2

    10. Member impulse byer's Avatar
      Join Date
      Mar 8th, 2003
      Location
      Georgetown,ON
      Posts
      5,264
      Vehicles
      98 5.9 Grand cherokee, VW other again...
      03-20-2003 10:58 PM #45
      the
      quote:
      yes you can, you have to do some cutting I beleive, search on the first page of this forum.

      the link dosn't work can someone help me with this sence i have the parts already

    11. 03-23-2003 07:34 PM #46
      Wow, excellent thread guys! Thanx for all the input from all you "Guru's"!
      This was just what I was looking for.
      I just bought my 5th VeeWee and am taking delivery tomorrow.
      It's a '88 16V Gli 5 speed.
      pretty solid but definately used as a beater in her earlier life. But, that's also why i got it for $1200.
      Two questions for you.
      #1. valve/lifter noise on the 16 valves. I had a 16v GTI that did ir and so does the car I just bought. Two shops (VW shops) told me this is common and not to worry about it. One problem, I HATE LIFTER NOISE!!
      Is it a cheap fix??

      Question #2 is in regards to gas.
      As I recall, the owners manual for my '91 2.0 16v GTI I had said you can run what ever you wnat for octane but for max perf. run hi test. I think I remeber "feeling" drastic differences between the two.
      With gas prices what they are now, can I run poop gas if I'm not beating on the car, i.e. trips etc??
      Thanx again guys, great thread.
      Gary


    12. 03-24-2003 03:07 AM #47
      the motronic engine management will retard your engine timing via the knock sensors if you run low quality gas under hard driivng where engine heat builds up. You will just lose overall power but you will be saving your engine from melting down...you should however use at least 91 octane for a good complete combustion due to the 16vs high revving and high compression nature. I know gas prices suck these days but if you want your car to run at its best, you just gotta pay the extra price ... just don't drive around as much if you can

    13. 04-11-2003 01:54 PM #48
      A G60 downpipe will fit a 16v.
      I bought one and it bolts up just the same.
      I am adding this b/c if you have a cracked and/or leaking downpipe, the G60 ones you will find for sale have lower mileage on them and are usually in much better condition than the used 16v ones.
      Good luck!
      2001 A6 4.2 - NEMO Blue
      1987 944 Turbo

      1988 GLI 16v SOLD

    14. 04-28-2003 01:10 AM #49
      If Motronic engine can be chipped, Is there anything you could suggest for Jetronics to increase its BHP....../

    15. 04-28-2003 07:28 AM #50
      Quote, originally posted by H2Zero »
      If Motronic engine can be chipped, Is there anything you could suggest for Jetronics to increase its BHP......

      http://www.jetchip.com/


    16. 04-29-2003 10:30 AM #51
      spring cleaning, continue on

    17. 04-29-2003 11:36 AM #52
      rebuilding a 2L 9A block?

      Here is the list of parts you'll need for a full rebuild. a lot of these are reusable, but here is the list:

      magnafluxed (checked)
      hot tanked (cleaned)
      resurfaced
      honed (92.8mm)
      Rod bolts (ARP recommended) - OEM are one-time use stretch bolts
      crank rod journals being machined (if new rod bolts used)
      crank main journals being machined (if new rod bolts used)
      rods machined and balanced
      pistons glass beaded
      new rings
      new frost plugs (4)
      new aux shaft bushings (metal ones that have to be pressed in)
      new front/rear seals
      new front rear gaskets
      new rod bearings (one over)
      new crank main journal bearings
      assembled short block
      polished oil pump shaft gear cap
      painted gloss fire red.
      new oil pan gasket
      2L oil squirters
      2L 9A 144mm balanced 16v rifle drilled rods
      oil pan cleaned and painted gloss black.
      new dipstick tube seal
      new oil filter to block gasket
      new ring set (2L)
      new low-temp thermostat (170°C)
      new alternator belt (custom size)
      new power steering belt (custom size)
      new coolant hose (small one)
      new oil filter (bosch)
      new oil (10w30)
      new coolant
      new VW OEM themostat o-ring
      new VW OEM timing belt
      new VW OEM timing belt tensioner
      new VW OEM intermediate shaft o-ring (green)
      new VW OEM coolant level sensor
      new VW OEM coolant expantion tank
      new VW OEM coolant hose (big one)


    18. 04-29-2003 11:40 AM #53
      rebuilding a 1.8L PL head?

      Here is the list of parts you'll need for a full rebuild. a lot of these are reusable, but here is the list:

      cleaned
      ported and polished (intake aggressive, exhaust mild) (optional)
      shaved 0.015" to bump compression to 11.0:1 (optional)
      stage II intake cam 276° (optional)
      stage III exhaust cam 280° (optional)
      new valve seals (16)
      new exaust valve guides (8)
      3-way valve grind
      assembled by machine shop (valves)
      new valve stem seals (16)
      new throttle body gasket (both)
      new intake gaskets (upper and lower)
      new valve cover gasket
      new inner spark plug gasket
      new cam seals (left and right)
      new cam chain
      44mm intake manifold (part #027 133 223 AF)
      port matched intake/to gasket and head to intake (recommended)
      new VW OEM distributor
      new VW OEM Hall sender
      new VW OEM bosch cap
      new VW OEM bosch rotor
      new VW OEM head gasket (2L)
      new VW OEM temperature sensor (2)
      new VW OEM stretch head bolts (16)
      new VW OEM water temp sending unit
      new VW OEM bosch 4 tri electrode plugs
      new VW OEM oil pressure switch (0.15 bar)
      new VW OEM oil pressure switch (1.8 bar)
      new VW OEM allen bolts
      new VW OEM oil breather gasket
      new VW OEM fuel injector seals (8 -4 thin & 4 thick) - 1 of each on each injector


    19. 04-29-2003 11:44 AM #54

    20. 05-04-2003 07:03 PM #55
      The fuel pump for 1987 - 1989 16v differs from that in a 1990-92. The Jetta's 16v fuel pump is different from the 8valve and the 16v pump from a scirocco. The prepump on 16v's (intank fuel pump) are accessible without dropping the fuel tank. But no matter what you do... you will smell like gas for a week or two.

    21. 05-07-2003 10:52 PM #56
      Quote, originally posted by Jett'in »
      A G60 downpipe will fit a 16v.
      I bought one and it bolts up just the same.
      I am adding this b/c if you have a cracked and/or leaking downpipe, the G60 ones you will find for sale have lower mileage on them and are usually in much better condition than the used 16v ones.
      Good luck!
      Interesting. Does the G60 dp offer better flow too? Or the same? Would this be a cheap mod for power gains?

    22. 05-15-2003 01:03 AM #57
      It is just a direct replacememnt for the 16v.
      As far as I know it is the same size and should flow the same
      2001 A6 4.2 - NEMO Blue
      1987 944 Turbo

      1988 GLI 16v SOLD

    23. 06-06-2003 11:51 AM #58
      How to remove AC.
      Golf/Jetta II FAQ page 4 towards the bottom.

    24. Member Space9888's Avatar
      Join Date
      Mar 18th, 2002
      Location
      Connecticut
      Posts
      1,936
      Vehicles
      1981 Rabbit convertible
      06-23-2003 04:57 AM #59
      Just to Make things a little clearer for anyone who is building a 16v or those of you who forgot to mark the pullies before pulling the timming belt off.

      the "dot" on the flywheel shown above is the reference for timming the crank to the cams (as stated zero degrees TDC)

      the "hash" mark on the flywheel is a reference for ignition timming (6 degrees BTDC).

      Be sure to use the "dot" on the flywheel to time the engine (crank to cams) not the hash mark as this will make a mess of your valve train.


    25. 07-16-2003 03:06 PM #60
      If I got a new 1.8 16v intake mani and tb 42mm
      What would I have to do to fit it to a 2.0 16v???
      New to 16v engine and forum soo help me out

    26. 08-13-2003 02:08 AM #61
      this is my first project car and i am new at this. i've tried posting other places and haven't gotten much help. i have a few questions.
      1) how can i find out the year of my engine for parts?

      2) oil dripping onto the exhaust manifold and burning off in a cloud of smoke, but only if i use the clutch or use reverse alot when i drive it. How can i fix this?

      3) alternater drivebelt and/or bearings screach when in a low gear, stops when the engine goes above 3000 RPMs. What is it, how can i fix it?

      I would appreciate the help, i have only dabbled in the home mechanic thing for a short time know.


    27. 09-03-2003 02:28 AM #62
      Fuel Enrichment Module
      Here is how to make a Fuel Enrichment module for those with CisE
      Quite detailed with pics: http://forums.vwvortex.com/zer...age=1

      MKIII Alternator/Serpentine Swap
      Here is how to retrofit a MKIII alternator and serpentine design
      Very explicit with detailed list of parts needed: http://forums.vwvortex.com/zer...20530


      Modified by BubbleBLOCK at 7:32 AM 9-3-2003


    28. 11-26-2003 07:35 PM #63

      Option 1) TT repair kit ($100usd):
      http://www.techtonicstuning.com/images/parts/253.001.jpg

      Option 2) TT race downpipe (loud)($250usd)::
      http://techtonicstuning.com/viewpart.asp?partnum=251.203S

      Option 3) TT Downpipe to weld on OEM cat ($125usd):
      http://techtonicstuning.com/viewpart.asp?partnum=251.225

      Option 4) cheapo replacement part ($136 usd for dp and cat)
      http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=1104392
      http://www.discountconverter.c...30091



      Modified by rockin16v at 9:58 AM 6-18-2004


    29. 12-02-2003 11:53 AM #64
      OEM stretch head bolt torque specs

      10-4-2-6-8

      7-5-1-3-9
      front of engine

      and the torquing is : 30 ftlbs, 43 ftlbs, then 1/2 turn or 2 1/4 turns. Torque everytime following the bolt pattern above.


    30. 12-02-2003 03:49 PM #65
      Finding your ECU number (needed for ordering a performance chip) 1990-92 2.0L 16V Ke-Motronic


      -Remove Plastic Tray located between engine and windshield (driver side)
      -Slide the two wire harness's off of the ECU mounting bracket
      -Using a 10mm Socket (with medium extension) remove the nut securing the ECU to the car (dig through the leaves!)
      -Slightly Lift and slide the ECU foward; out of its two white mounting clips
      -Turn it over
      -There is a Bosch Part number and an ECU number (should start with an 8)
      -Write the ECU Number down and Go order your freakin CHIP!


    31. 02-18-2004 04:51 PM #66
      Here's a link with plenty of Dyno tests by the UK lads. It's a great way of comparing what mod does what, with a lot of focus on camshafts and 2.0 bottom end swaps:

      http://gvk.altrezia.com/

      1976 Project Carbon Mk1 - Sold! | 2006 Lotus Exige S | 2012 Scirocco R

    32. 02-19-2004 12:29 AM #67
      OK Guys new to this VW stuff heres what i got and what I know abou it.
      1987 Scirocco 16V: Things i know it has.
      1. Eurosport header with 2 1/4" exhaust with 2 chamber flowmaster
      2. K&N airfilter
      3. it has a tag on the pan in front of the radiator that has neuspeed cams installed on it and has 2 #'s and says to tune to factory specs.
      has what looks like braided steel fuel lines??? is this stock?
      4. short throw shifter
      5. tokico adjustable shocks and h&r springs
      6. Neuspeed strutt tower brace (front and rear)
      7. aftermarket sway bars underneath
      Things i would like to find out.(I know almost imposssible without tearing apart or asking previous owner)
      if it has upgraded fuel system(is there a way to measure a fuel rail or anything)
      what size throttle body( is there a way to tell what size by a part number?)
      how much wheel horsepower? does anyone know where a dyno is around charlotte area
      I know this car is super fast and handle like it's on a rail.
      Thanks for any help. Brian



    33. 03-11-2004 04:03 PM #68
      im new to the vw's. when i replace the timing belt what do i do with the alignment of the intermediate gear or does it even need alignment?

    34. Geriatric Member VDub2625's Avatar
      Join Date
      Jan 3rd, 2003
      Location
      Fall River, MA
      Posts
      46,084
      Vehicles
      90 Jetta GLI 16v, 99.5 Cabrio Highline, 92 Golf GL
      03-23-2004 10:18 PM #69
      Quote, originally posted by Bentley, 3-14 »
      Note:
      It is not necessary to time the intermediate shaft on 16-valve engines.
      A2Resource
      .......

    35. Moderator rs4-380's Avatar
      Join Date
      Dec 12th, 2000
      Location
      Maine
      Posts
      22,974
      Vehicles
      VWs & Audis
      04-26-2004 12:03 AM #70
      Pin numbering for Harness testing.

      With the row of 18 pins on top (or the cable coming out of the left side of the connector)

      top row 1-18 left to right
      bottom row 19-35 left to right

      Dave

    Page 2 of 9 FirstFirst 123456 ... LastLast

    Posting Permissions

    • You may not post new threads
    • You may not post replies
    • You may not post attachments
    • You may not edit your posts
    •