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    Thread: Wiring short: dash, heater control, headlight switch lights out.

    1. Member sprocket007's Avatar
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      06-10-2013 03:37 PM #1
      I have seen a few posts like this lately.

      I think I'm ready to finally fix my wiring issue, last time I started this fix I ended up doing a header to avoid this...

      I have my Bentley, test light, meter, roll of blue wire, soldering gun, heat shrink.

      It seems the origins of the short was around the heater controls.

      Wire involved is grey/blue from heater controls to headlight switch, burned up all the way along current paths 73, 77 to 58b on headlight switch.

      My question in this matter is where is the origin of the power to this circuit, my wiring is burned up I want to ensure I don't have another short and fix from the origin.
      BSc.N, EMS/FIRE

    2. Member briano1234's Avatar
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      06-10-2013 05:48 PM #2
      From the Red wire on the headlight switch pin 30 and pin X black/yellow

      On the 89's it wasn't fused so the wires burn until they catch fire, and melt the car or open up.
      The issues are that were ever that wire touched (gray/blue) will melt other wires bare.

      I would bet that the switch is toasted, as well as the entire gray/blue wire.
      It runs from the switch to the cluster over to the defroster switch, the 4 way, then to the heater fascia, and down to the cigarette lighter and then to the console gauges.
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    3. Member kamzcab86's Avatar
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      06-10-2013 06:47 PM #3
      Quote Originally Posted by sprocket007 View Post
      My question in this matter is where is the origin of the power to this circuit
      Originates at the battery, goes to the fuse panel, and leaves the back of the fuse panel at pin B23 and goes straight to terminal 30 on the switch.
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    4. Member sprocket007's Avatar
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      06-10-2013 06:52 PM #4
      Yes, I have a new switch.

      I'll have to look for the power wire to the cluster to ensure I have dash lights.

      Thanks for the help!

      Edit: I just wanna be sure I get dash lights, I simply cannot rewire 58b to heater controls, and triple gauges.

      Im afraid the "A4" connector to the cluster shown in Bentley no longer exists!

      Guessing I should put a fuse inline with the red going into the headlight switch?
      Last edited by sprocket007; 06-10-2013 at 07:05 PM.
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    5. Member sehaare's Avatar
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      06-10-2013 09:43 PM #5
      Quote Originally Posted by sprocket007 View Post
      Yes, I have a new switch.

      I'll have to look for the power wire to the cluster to ensure I have dash lights.

      Thanks for the help!

      Edit: I just wanna be sure I get dash lights, I simply cannot rewire 58b to heater controls, and triple gauges.

      Im afraid the "A4" connector to the cluster shown in Bentley no longer exists!

      Guessing I should put a fuse inline with the red going into the headlight switch?
      If your going in to fix this once and for all, (and none of us want to go into the dash any more than we have to) I'd go ahead and wire in a fuse (that will probably be the easiest thing you do while you are trying to figure out the problem). Before you put in the new head light switch make sure you have checked the resistance of everything down stream of it to make sure that you still don't have a short that would quickly burn up your new switch.

      Briano implies that they fused this after 89 so I'd go to kammy's site and check the fuse box for the 90 -93 cars and see what size fuse they used and go with that size for your inline fuse.

      Steve
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    6. Member briano1234's Avatar
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      06-10-2013 09:55 PM #6
      Quote Originally Posted by sehaare View Post
      I.

      Briano implies that they fused this after 89 so I'd go to kammy's site and check the fuse box for the 90 -93 cars and see what size fuse they used and go with that size for your inline fuse.

      Steve
      Thats the fact jack. 10amp
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    7. Member sprocket007's Avatar
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      06-11-2013 06:49 AM #7
      Alright, That wasn't too bad...

      I found that A4 connector now dash, heater control and gauge lights work!

      However, now signal lights dont work, signal indicator in the cluster remains dimly lit ... If the indicator stalk is used, the cluster light becomes brighter. 4 way flashers work. looks like my job isn't done!
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    8. Member briano1234's Avatar
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      06-11-2013 07:37 AM #8
      Quote Originally Posted by sprocket007 View Post
      Alright, That wasn't too bad...

      I found that A4 connector now dash, heater control and gauge lights work!

      However, now signal lights dont work, signal indicator in the cluster remains dimly lit ... If the indicator stalk is used, the cluster light becomes brighter. 4 way flashers work. looks like my job isn't done!
      Ah so sorry I didn't see this earlier, that is the ubiquitous blown flasher fuse indication. I think it is f19.. 4th over from right 10A
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    9. Member sehaare's Avatar
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      06-11-2013 08:08 AM #9
      Quote Originally Posted by briano1234 View Post
      Ah so sorry I didn't see this earlier, that is the ubiquitous blown flasher fuse indication. I think it is f19.. 4th over from right 10A
      If memory serves (and more and more it doesn't) you can also get this indication if you leave one of the two individual wires off of the emergency flasher switch (that switch has one main plug, one individual wire for the switch light and another individual wire that could be the culprit) I assume you disconnected this switch to get into the dash, did you put all the wires back on?


      Steve
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    10. Member briano1234's Avatar
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      06-11-2013 05:49 PM #10
      Quote Originally Posted by sehaare View Post
      If memory serves (and more and more it doesn't) you can also get this indication if you leave one of the two individual wires off of the emergency flasher switch (that switch has one main plug, one individual wire for the switch light and another individual wire that could be the culprit) I assume you disconnected this switch to get into the dash, did you put all the wires back on?


      Steve
      Nothing wrong with your memory.... that one little wire on the hazard has power on it all the time....
      Grounds, Grounds, Grounds Replace them things.
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    11. Member sprocket007's Avatar
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      06-11-2013 06:07 PM #11
      Yes, this fix wasn't too bad, I found that the grey/blue wire from the back of the fuse box was intact. I ran a single new wire from back of headlight switch 58b, tied into the wire from the back of the fuse box, continued that same single wire to tie into the bunched group of flasher switch, defrost switch, cluster lights, same wire continued to triple gauges. make sense? This worked to fix the burned wire I had...

      Briano, you think it is simply the turn signal fuse? It puzzled me that the flashers still worked!

      Thanks for your help!
      Last edited by sprocket007; 06-11-2013 at 06:18 PM.
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    12. Member CajunSpike's Avatar
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      06-11-2013 06:20 PM #12
      It takes two fuses for the turns signal to work. 4 and 19. I've had the same symptoms when 19 blew.

    13. Member briano1234's Avatar
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      06-11-2013 06:44 PM #13
      Quote Originally Posted by sprocket007 View Post
      Yes, this fix wasn't too bad, I found that the grey/blue wire from the back of the fuse box was intact. I ran a single new wire from back of headlight switch 58b, tied into the wire from the back of the fuse box, continued that same single wire to tie into the bunched group of flasher switch, defrost switch, cluster lights, same wire continued to triple gauges. make sense? This worked to fix the burned wire I had...

      Briano, you think it is simply the turn signal fuse? It puzzled me that the flashers still worked!

      Thanks for your help!
      Quote Originally Posted by CajunSpike View Post
      It takes two fuses for the turns signal to work. 4 and 19. I've had the same symptoms when 19 blew.
      Yep, as Cajun said.... It is a strange thing until you see it a few times. the 2 separate wires on the hazard switch for the bulb are easy to short together when you remove the switch, since it has power all the time, the brown wire is ground and the other is power. I don't know how many f19's I have replaced over the years.... When you take off the thicker wire, cover it with tape and you won't have that issue....
      Grounds, Grounds, Grounds Replace them things.
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      Where are my grounds ?
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    14. Member sprocket007's Avatar
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      06-12-2013 12:27 AM #14
      F19 replaced...all is well.
      Everything is operational!!!
      yay!
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    15. Member sprocket007's Avatar
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      06-12-2013 12:32 AM #15
      oh, I also replaced the knee bar and installed a Jetta lower dash...
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    16. Member sprocket007's Avatar
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      06-12-2013 06:36 AM #16
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    17. Member sehaare's Avatar
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      06-12-2013 10:17 AM #17
      Quote Originally Posted by sprocket007 View Post
      oh, I also replaced the knee bar and installed a Jetta lower dash...

      Did it bolt up completely and tightly on both ends? The reason that I ask is that the kneebar in a cabby is a major strength member for the frame.

      It looks like the swap got you a lower glove compartment is that why you did it or is there some other advantage that I can't see.
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    18. Member sprocket007's Avatar
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      06-12-2013 02:43 PM #18
      It fits well, the advantage is that I think it looks better...

      there is another glove compartment under the existing one, a small cubby over the triple gauge, and a large cubby under the steering wheel.

      I suppose I could make a smaller replacement for the kneebar with tubular steel if I notice a difference without it...

      It was my understanding the kneebar was a part of a flawed restraint system for the occupants...
      Last edited by sprocket007; 06-12-2013 at 02:50 PM.
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    19. Member briano1234's Avatar
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      06-12-2013 10:09 PM #19
      Quote Originally Posted by sprocket007 View Post
      It was my understanding the kneebar was a part of a flawed restraint system for the occupants...
      Wrong, on a cabriolet the kneebar is a frame re-enforcement as there is nothing holding the corners together.

      Yes the padded cover are to protect your knees, but it is structural on a cabriolet.
      Grounds, Grounds, Grounds Replace them things.
      Divorces, Great Coffee, and Electrics, all start with GOOD Grounds.

      Where are my grounds ?
      I am a Commodian. I tell really Crappy jokes.

    20. Member sprocket007's Avatar
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      06-13-2013 05:42 AM #20
      Quote Originally Posted by briano1234 View Post
      Wrong, on a cabriolet the kneebar is a frame re-enforcement as there is nothing holding the corners together.

      Yes the padded cover are to protect your knees, but it is structural on a cabriolet.
      That knee bar is not padded and it doesn't protect anyones knees, in fact it is the cause of injury having your knees strike a solid surface in a collision...EMS experience speaking here.

      Now the structural part, ill figure something to aid that behind my new lower dash...
      BSc.N, EMS/FIRE

    21. Member sehaare's Avatar
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      06-13-2013 05:42 PM #21
      Quote Originally Posted by sprocket007 View Post
      That knee bar is not padded and it doesn't protect anyones knees, in fact it is the cause of injury having your knees strike a solid surface in a collision...EMS experience speaking here.

      Now the structural part, ill figure something to aid that behind my new lower dash...
      i wouldn't try real hard cornering until you do
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