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    Thread: 24V VR6 oil change how to lots of photos

    1. 08-13-2003 11:22 PM #71
      Need some help removing the splash shield that covers the oil filter/pan area on my GLI. For some reason, all but (2) of the Torx screws can be removed as I am unable to find any tool that fits into the center of the remaining two. Although brand new and unused these last two screws give the same feeling as if the head were stripped. Any ideas how to remove these?

      Trying to be cautious and not pry them out so I can be sure to get them back in place.


    2. 08-14-2003 07:45 AM #72
      Quote, originally posted by Miles267 »
      Need some help removing the splash shield that covers the oil filter/pan area on my GLI. For some reason, all but (2) of the Torx screws can be removed as I am unable to find any tool that fits into the center of the remaining two. Although brand new and unused these last two screws give the same feeling as if the head were stripped. Any ideas how to remove these?

      Trying to be cautious and not pry them out so I can be sure to get them back in place.

      If they are the plastic looking ones in the center you are speaking of, they are actually christmas tree likes connectors, the middle pulls out allowing the rest of the adapter to come out. I spent quite a while on those when I did my first oil change. Frustrating VW used such a bad design making it hard to service the filter. In comparison the first time I changed the oil in our new Saab it took me under 20 minutes total. That air deflector was properly positioned so it didn't nee removed to get to the filter. Good luck!


    3. 08-14-2003 09:30 AM #73
      Perhaps I can take a digital pic of these screws this evening. However, in a photo, they'll likely appear nearly identical to the other Torx screws. For what it's worth though, if you're looking at the car straight-on (headlights point toward you), they're the two on the far ends closest to you which appear to be where this splash shield overlaps with another plastic guard. Unless they require something smaller than a T-8 torx head to remove, then I'm at a loss for ideas. All other torx screws on this guard I could remove with a T-20, whereas these other two are proving to be a challenge.

    4. 08-14-2003 12:40 PM #74
      I bought a Bosch oil filter, and now as I am talking to the guy at fastgermanauto.com he says that the small o rings come with the oil filter kit. Since I need to change the oil today, I can't order anything. MY local vw dealer does not want to sell the small o rings seperately. It seems that I'll have to buy a whole thing from them.

    5. 08-14-2003 01:31 PM #75
      Quote, originally posted by Pataren »
      I bought a Bosch oil filter, and now as I am talking to the guy at fastgermanauto.com he says that the small o rings come with the oil filter kit. Since I need to change the oil today, I can't order anything. MY local vw dealer does not want to sell the small o rings seperately. It seems that I'll have to buy a whole thing from them.

      Are you sure the small o-ring isn't on the end of the oil filter?


    6. 08-14-2003 01:47 PM #76
      yeah, the large ring is there, but small one is not. I'll go and check what the dealer's filter look like.

    7. 08-14-2003 09:03 PM #77
      Yes - they are the plastic ones towards the center. How did you even get a grip on them to pull them out? Please help

    8. 08-15-2003 11:22 AM #78
      BTW - since I've been more successful offering advice to myself on the threads lately ;-) thought I would help other.

      Spoke to a VW service tech this morning - he recommended that the entire front guard on the GLI be removed altogether to get to the oil filter housing. However he suggested that the two plastic fasteners located towards the center of the car (which are not torx screws afterall) be removed at this point and the guard be installed without them. Next time oil is changed, won't need to remove the entire guard, only part of it.

      Good luck!


    9. 08-25-2003 01:03 PM #79
      Has anyone else checked out " http://www.filtrauto.com/epurfl.html "
      and wondered how the "clean oil change" device works.
      Also, I noticed the o-ring is on the end of that device in the picture.
      When I changed my oil the first time the o-ring was still on the end.

    10. 11-02-2003 02:39 AM #80
      How do I get that crush washer off of the drain plug? It doesn't seem like it's going to budge, which means that putting the new one on will be just as tough as taking it off! It's 11:00pm in California right now and i'm about to get started on my next change... won't have time to do it any other time for a while...

    11. Banned Integrale's Avatar
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      11-02-2003 02:40 PM #81
      Quote, originally posted by GTIinTHErye »
      How do I get that crush washer off of the drain plug? It doesn't seem like it's going to budge, which means that putting the new one on will be just as tough as taking it off! It's 11:00pm in California right now and i'm about to get started on my next change... won't have time to do it any other time for a while...

      Don't take it off...you don't need to unless you crush it to begin with from overtightening it from the previous oil change. I have performed two changes already and the washer is in perfect condition. The oil pan plug is deep and even without the washer, oil will not leak...if it does it'd be an extremely slow leak. This washer is not designed to come off unless it's damaged or forced off. Thus far, my washer looks like new and I have no leaks whatsoever. Perhaps after 5 or so cycles, it'd need to be changed.


    12. 11-03-2003 11:09 AM #82
      arghh...why couldn't i find this thread before. great post. the only thing i missed was rotating the o-rings from filter to filter drain plug.

    13. Member siuson2's Avatar
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      11-17-2003 01:47 AM #83
      yes its a great help!
      Cheers,
      Ivan K Lee - NFJ - An Old Timer.
      The ViP Jetta IV 2003 GLi Vr6

    14. 11-18-2003 03:25 PM #84
      Quote, originally posted by Miles267 »
      BTW - since I've been more successful offering advice to myself on the threads lately ;-) thought I would help other.

      Spoke to a VW service tech this morning - he recommended that the entire front guard on the GLI be removed altogether to get to the oil filter housing. However he suggested that the two plastic fasteners located towards the center of the car (which are not torx screws afterall) be removed at this point and the guard be installed without them. Next time oil is changed, won't need to remove the entire guard, only part of it.

      Good luck!

      This is interesting. If I understand you correctly, there are two splash guards underneath your car? I just changed my oil for the first time, and all I found was the guard in the front, right underneath the oil filter. It certainly looked, however, like there was supposed to be another one underneath the oil pan. Does anybody know if there are supposed to be two guards underneath there?


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      11-18-2003 04:34 PM #85
      they use one in the back in Europe on the MRk4's

    16. Member FLdude's Avatar
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      11-18-2003 11:28 PM #86
      only 1 guard under there..

      as far as the crush washer.. you replace the bolt and washer as an assembly. I have done mine 5 times on the original..

      just picked up one from ECS tuning for $0.99 don't know but it is not worth your time fighting a washer for a buck.

      glad to see this how to has been useful!


    17. 11-19-2003 06:06 PM #87
      Quote, originally posted by FLdude »
      only 1 guard under there..

      as far as the crush washer.. you replace the bolt and washer as an assembly. I have done mine 5 times on the original..

      just picked up one from ECS tuning for $0.99 don't know but it is not worth your time fighting a washer for a buck.

      glad to see this how to has been useful!

      It's been tremendously helpful...Thanks!
      Used the original plug/washer assembly for the first change...no leaks. (IMO, this is a terrible design by VW, but I have a couple of spares just in case).


    18. Member
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      01-05-2004 04:09 PM #88
      thank you

    19. 01-06-2004 01:13 AM #89
      Has anyone seen a "remote oil filter kit" for relocating, and using a standard oil filter?

      Thanks for the info, HJS


    20. Member FLdude's Avatar
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      01-07-2004 10:50 PM #90
      Nope.. no idea about a remote filter..

      I must ask WHY???


    21. 01-08-2004 09:20 AM #91
      I would like the luxury of changing the oil without having to perform some 16 step Rube Goldberg ritual. Oil changes should be a strap wrench and a rachet. The O rings, the big nut, the allen head, sounds like the days of handcranks and candle powered headlights.
      I have seen remote filters for Chevys and the like, usually paired with an oil cooler.

      I do appreciate you taking the time to layout the procedure. I had no idea an oil change could be so involved. Thank you....


    22. Member DubGeek's Avatar
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      01-08-2004 09:33 AM #92
      It's not as bad as all that. Once you do it more than once it's pretty easy and quick. Besides, you get to be come "one with your car"

    23. Member FLdude's Avatar
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      01-08-2004 02:02 PM #93
      really it takes no longer than a canister filter. I actually perfer it as you don't get oil leaking all over hell like you do with the canister ones.

      the only thing i could say that would save time is some type of small hinged section on the splash sheild. (its on my mod list!)


    24. Member KrzeVR6's Avatar
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      04-03-2004 10:03 PM #94
      I did my 15,000 mile oil change this weekend...GREAT DIY!
      Took me 35 minutes (a good portion of the time was spent waiting for the oil to drain completely out of the pan and the filter housing).
      Quick question though, I used the Rhino Ramps and I was wondering if you need to lower the car during the draining or will all the oil drain out while the front of the car is raised on the ramp? The oil drain plug is on the down-slope end of the car, so I assumed that the car can remain on the ramp while it was being drained....Gravity would take care of it.
      Thanks again for the great instructions!


      Modified by KrzeVR6 at 9:06 PM 4-3-2004

    25. Member jlsgli89-03's Avatar
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      04-07-2004 10:40 PM #95
      we want more ,thats almost better than bently,or even vw more ,more ,more!

    26. 04-12-2004 05:31 PM #96
      Where would be a good jack point under the car when it's lowered? or should i just buy some ramps, also, if i leave the splash guard off is it really going to kill my car?


      Modified by veedubpiranha at 9:52 PM 4-12-2004

    27. 04-14-2004 05:38 PM #97
      I find it interesting that the tech advises removing the shield. I put my car up on ramps. They tilt the car at just the right angle so that the oil draining from the filter housing clears the guard. No need to remove the shield.

      As for a jack point, I use a small floor jack and put in just beneath one of the subframe bolts that mount to the undercarriage.


    28. 04-14-2004 06:21 PM #98
      i just use jack stands and put them where the manuel indicated where to put the jack. My plastic gaurd got ripped off on the freeway so i dont have one anymore, so its a breeze, they want like 200 bucks for that plastic. Just imagin if you had that metal engine gaurd.

    29. Member max asst's Avatar
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      07-29-2004 11:18 AM #99
      Our first oil change was gratis at the VW dealership. When I brought it in, I requested that they trim the skidplate to allow access for oil changes. This is a modification for VW Rialtas and the lead mechanic was familiar with it. Ask the service department about doing this for you too. The skidplate provides some protection and it decreases some wind/road noise. It is my turn to do the next oil change and I appreciate this thread! Thanks!
      I like lechon.

    30. 08-02-2004 08:39 PM #100
      Just bought a filter for my '03 GLI...I'll confirm that the filter PN now has an 'A' at the end of it.


      Modified by colossus at 1:58 AM 8-5-2004

    31. 08-03-2004 06:32 PM #101
      they never give me the little crush washer anymore.

    32. 08-04-2004 04:35 AM #102
      Thanks for writing this up. I definitely need a Bently Manual. I've been changing my oil the last 6k miles. I have not removed that o-ring from the filter. The o-ring that goes on the plug. I replaced my oil the last time and found the o-ring still on the filter. I didn't have any problems but, I'll definitely make the change on the next oil change.

    33. Member Nice_Rumble's Avatar
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      08-09-2004 01:10 PM #103
      FLdude- I'm trying to find a 36mm socket. The biggest I can find is a 19mm. Where did you get yours? Is there an SAE standard that is comparable?


      Modified by Nice_Rumble at 5:12 PM 8-9-2004

    34. Member '97Trek2.0's Avatar
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      08-09-2004 03:08 PM #104
      i got mine at sears. it was the biggest one I could find there. then you need to buy a 1/2 inch drive also.

    35. Member FigureFive's Avatar
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      08-09-2004 05:05 PM #105
      ^^^

      look for a 3/8 to 1/2 inch converter and you don't have to buy a 1/2" drive, though.


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