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    Thread: 24V VR6 oil change how to lots of photos

    1. 08-14-2003 12:47 PM #76
      yeah, the large ring is there, but small one is not. I'll go and check what the dealer's filter look like.

    2. 08-14-2003 08:03 PM #77
      Yes - they are the plastic ones towards the center. How did you even get a grip on them to pull them out? Please help

    3. 08-15-2003 10:22 AM #78
      BTW - since I've been more successful offering advice to myself on the threads lately ;-) thought I would help other.
      Spoke to a VW service tech this morning - he recommended that the entire front guard on the GLI be removed altogether to get to the oil filter housing. However he suggested that the two plastic fasteners located towards the center of the car (which are not torx screws afterall) be removed at this point and the guard be installed without them. Next time oil is changed, won't need to remove the entire guard, only part of it.
      Good luck!

    4. 08-25-2003 12:03 PM #79
      Has anyone else checked out " http://www.filtrauto.com/epurfl.html "
      and wondered how the "clean oil change" device works.
      Also, I noticed the o-ring is on the end of that device in the picture.
      When I changed my oil the first time the o-ring was still on the end.

    5. 11-02-2003 01:39 AM #80
      How do I get that crush washer off of the drain plug? It doesn't seem like it's going to budge, which means that putting the new one on will be just as tough as taking it off! It's 11:00pm in California right now and i'm about to get started on my next change... won't have time to do it any other time for a while...

    6. Banned Integrale's Avatar
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      11-02-2003 01:40 PM #81
      Quote, originally posted by GTIinTHErye »
      How do I get that crush washer off of the drain plug? It doesn't seem like it's going to budge, which means that putting the new one on will be just as tough as taking it off! It's 11:00pm in California right now and i'm about to get started on my next change... won't have time to do it any other time for a while...

      Don't take it off...you don't need to unless you crush it to begin with from overtightening it from the previous oil change. I have performed two changes already and the washer is in perfect condition. The oil pan plug is deep and even without the washer, oil will not leak...if it does it'd be an extremely slow leak. This washer is not designed to come off unless it's damaged or forced off. Thus far, my washer looks like new and I have no leaks whatsoever. Perhaps after 5 or so cycles, it'd need to be changed.

    7. 11-03-2003 10:09 AM #82
      arghh...why couldn't i find this thread before. great post. the only thing i missed was rotating the o-rings from filter to filter drain plug.

    8. Member siuson2's Avatar
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      11-17-2003 12:47 AM #83
      yes its a great help!
      Cheers,
      Ivan K Lee - NFJ - An Old Timer.
      The ViP Jetta IV 2003 GLi Vr6

    9. 11-18-2003 02:25 PM #84
      Quote, originally posted by Miles267 »
      BTW - since I've been more successful offering advice to myself on the threads lately ;-) thought I would help other.
      Spoke to a VW service tech this morning - he recommended that the entire front guard on the GLI be removed altogether to get to the oil filter housing. However he suggested that the two plastic fasteners located towards the center of the car (which are not torx screws afterall) be removed at this point and the guard be installed without them. Next time oil is changed, won't need to remove the entire guard, only part of it.
      Good luck!

      This is interesting. If I understand you correctly, there are two splash guards underneath your car? I just changed my oil for the first time, and all I found was the guard in the front, right underneath the oil filter. It certainly looked, however, like there was supposed to be another one underneath the oil pan. Does anybody know if there are supposed to be two guards underneath there?

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      11-18-2003 03:34 PM #85
      they use one in the back in Europe on the MRk4's

    11. Member FLdude's Avatar
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      11-18-2003 10:28 PM #86
      only 1 guard under there..
      as far as the crush washer.. you replace the bolt and washer as an assembly. I have done mine 5 times on the original..
      just picked up one from ECS tuning for $0.99 don't know but it is not worth your time fighting a washer for a buck.
      glad to see this how to has been useful!

    12. 11-19-2003 05:06 PM #87
      Quote, originally posted by FLdude »
      only 1 guard under there..
      as far as the crush washer.. you replace the bolt and washer as an assembly. I have done mine 5 times on the original..
      just picked up one from ECS tuning for $0.99 don't know but it is not worth your time fighting a washer for a buck.
      glad to see this how to has been useful!

      It's been tremendously helpful...Thanks!
      Used the original plug/washer assembly for the first change...no leaks. (IMO, this is a terrible design by VW, but I have a couple of spares just in case).

    13. Member
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      01-05-2004 03:09 PM #88
      thank you

    14. 01-06-2004 12:13 AM #89
      Has anyone seen a "remote oil filter kit" for relocating, and using a standard oil filter?
      Thanks for the info, HJS

    15. Member FLdude's Avatar
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      01-07-2004 09:50 PM #90
      Nope.. no idea about a remote filter..
      I must ask WHY???

    16. 01-08-2004 08:20 AM #91
      I would like the luxury of changing the oil without having to perform some 16 step Rube Goldberg ritual. Oil changes should be a strap wrench and a rachet. The O rings, the big nut, the allen head, sounds like the days of handcranks and candle powered headlights.
      I have seen remote filters for Chevys and the like, usually paired with an oil cooler.
      I do appreciate you taking the time to layout the procedure. I had no idea an oil change could be so involved. Thank you....

    17. Member DubGeek's Avatar
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      01-08-2004 08:33 AM #92
      It's not as bad as all that. Once you do it more than once it's pretty easy and quick. Besides, you get to be come "one with your car"

    18. Member FLdude's Avatar
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      01-08-2004 01:02 PM #93
      really it takes no longer than a canister filter. I actually perfer it as you don't get oil leaking all over hell like you do with the canister ones.
      the only thing i could say that would save time is some type of small hinged section on the splash sheild. (its on my mod list!)

    19. Member KrzeVR6's Avatar
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      04-03-2004 09:03 PM #94
      I did my 15,000 mile oil change this weekend...GREAT DIY!
      Took me 35 minutes (a good portion of the time was spent waiting for the oil to drain completely out of the pan and the filter housing).
      Quick question though, I used the Rhino Ramps and I was wondering if you need to lower the car during the draining or will all the oil drain out while the front of the car is raised on the ramp? The oil drain plug is on the down-slope end of the car, so I assumed that the car can remain on the ramp while it was being drained....Gravity would take care of it.
      Thanks again for the great instructions!


      Modified by KrzeVR6 at 9:06 PM 4-3-2004

    20. Member jlsgli89-03's Avatar
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      04-07-2004 09:40 PM #95
      we want more ,thats almost better than bently,or even vw more ,more ,more!

    21. 04-12-2004 04:31 PM #96
      Where would be a good jack point under the car when it's lowered? or should i just buy some ramps, also, if i leave the splash guard off is it really going to kill my car?


      Modified by veedubpiranha at 9:52 PM 4-12-2004

    22. 04-14-2004 04:38 PM #97
      I find it interesting that the tech advises removing the shield. I put my car up on ramps. They tilt the car at just the right angle so that the oil draining from the filter housing clears the guard. No need to remove the shield.
      As for a jack point, I use a small floor jack and put in just beneath one of the subframe bolts that mount to the undercarriage.

    23. 04-14-2004 05:21 PM #98
      i just use jack stands and put them where the manuel indicated where to put the jack. My plastic gaurd got ripped off on the freeway so i dont have one anymore, so its a breeze, they want like 200 bucks for that plastic. Just imagin if you had that metal engine gaurd.

    24. Member max asst's Avatar
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      07-29-2004 10:18 AM #99
      Our first oil change was gratis at the VW dealership. When I brought it in, I requested that they trim the skidplate to allow access for oil changes. This is a modification for VW Rialtas and the lead mechanic was familiar with it. Ask the service department about doing this for you too. The skidplate provides some protection and it decreases some wind/road noise. It is my turn to do the next oil change and I appreciate this thread! Thanks!
      I like lechon.

    25. 08-02-2004 07:39 PM #100
      Just bought a filter for my '03 GLI...I'll confirm that the filter PN now has an 'A' at the end of it.


      Modified by colossus at 1:58 AM 8-5-2004

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