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    Thread: FAQ Thread for Sciroccos

    1. Member TheTimob's Avatar
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      07-20-2007 09:10 PM #26
      All (VW) 16v are hydro. (ottinger 16v or however ya spell it is solid)
      It just means that oil adjusts them to the cam clearance. Solids must be adjusted manually with shims.
      Solids can take more aggressive cams though. They are used in racing engines.
      1987.5 is supposed to be the dividing line for 8vs.

    2. Member Sirocco's Avatar
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      07-22-2007 10:21 PM #27
      Quote, originally posted by timbo2132 »
      All (VW) 16v are hydro. (ottinger 16v or however ya spell it is solid)

      Oettinger...close tho'
      Here are some pic's of it for reference:







      Modified by Sirocco at 7:24 PM 7-22-2007

    3. Member JonnyPhenomenon's Avatar
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      07-24-2007 05:12 PM #28
      can you replace the hydro lifters with solid ones?
      what does a "lifter" look like anyway? I havvent had one of these totally apart. lol
      www.rikerstardresser.com - I'm a donor, are you? - www.marrow.org

    4. Member JonnyPhenomenon's Avatar
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      08-01-2007 08:11 PM #29
      Just thought I would add my sunroof gasket rebuild diy to the faq
      http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?3234527
      I would rather pay ten bucks to rebuild a leaky sunroof gasket instead of paying 120$ for a new one.
      who is with me?
      www.rikerstardresser.com - I'm a donor, are you? - www.marrow.org

    5. Member tcfootball's Avatar
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      08-06-2007 11:54 PM #30
      I am

    6. Member 85spraybomb's Avatar
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      08-22-2007 05:16 PM #31
      OIL FILTER INFORMATION:
      i got this from a cabriolet site:
      these are the ONLY filters to date,that have the correct pressure relief valve that every VW owner makes sure of(mann or mahles)
      heres the filters that are acceptable(aka,the ones with the pressure relief valve)
      Bosch (part #3421)
      Mahle (part #OC 47)
      Mann (part #W719/5)
      Mobil-1 (part # M1-205)
      STP (part #S2870A)
      Volkswagen (part #056115561G)
      Wix/NAPA (part #51088)
      they labelled fram as an inferior product,and strongly advise NO ONE to use fram oil filters.

    7. Member av8r69's Avatar
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      09-08-2007 10:35 PM #32
      [QUOTE=timbo2132]This is what your transmission code looks like. As you can see, I have a 4K transmission made on 12/10 1983 (last digit is the year)

      =================================================

      I know this is a minor thing but the date code is read 12th day, 10th month,1983.......germans always write dates with day/month/year...not month/day/year

    8. Member TheTimob's Avatar
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      10-12-2007 02:27 PM #33

    9. Global Moderator Paul@VWvortex's Avatar
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      11-01-2007 11:01 PM #34
      How to repair your dash bulbs:
      http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?3522111

    10. Member TheTimob's Avatar
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      11-08-2007 09:50 AM #35
      Part numbers for 5th gear swap, with the prices that I paid so you can put your parts guy in his place....
      020-311-308C = XZN bolt, aka "SCREW" :: $6.44
      020-311-324B = washer :: $3.07
      020-301-215C = 5th gear housing gasket :: $8.95
      020-311-579B = fork lock plate "SLEEVE" :: $3.59
      N901-060-01 = 8v 5th Gear Circlip "RING" :: $2.25

    11. Member RoccoRacer's Avatar
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      11-08-2007 10:19 AM #36
      Ben
      '88 Scirocco 16v
      (][__][_]===W===[_][__][)

    12. Member JonnyPhenomenon's Avatar
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      11-10-2007 10:08 PM #37
      How to fix the stupid reverse gear lockout dissapearance issue
      http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?3536691



      Modified by JonnyPhenomenon at 11:53 PM 2-3-2009
      www.rikerstardresser.com - I'm a donor, are you? - www.marrow.org

    13. Member TheTimob's Avatar
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      12-31-2007 01:41 PM #38
      I just posted this in Scirocco Manifesto's cheap performance thread. It may be useful to somebody...
      Remember, 90% of these intake mods only increace throttle response, not horsepower.
      This goes for all throttle bodies, weber, mk2, audi, neuspeed, all that. Sure, they'll flow slightly more, but that doesn't matter because the engine can't use that extra air till you do other mods.... The Weber throttle body has INSANELY quick throttle response - it makes the gas pedal seem on/off - so there's no control anymore- makes the car very hard to drive. Our cars have two plate throttle bodies for a reason - to give them a more civilized ride and even throttle response.
      Best cheap performance - change the exhaust manifold from the toilet bowl to a dual downpipe from an older car. A header is better, but it's also louder and more prone to crack.
      Next? Exhaust. A Catback from TT is nice and cheap. You can get it with a resonator to make the car quiet as stock while being free-flowing. A Dynomax muffler is loud, and will fail quickly. A borla sounds great, restrained, and will last your lifetime.
      Ignition is where some real power is. first step is to get a knock sensing igniton from a newer car and retrofit it in your car. at the same time, get a new cap and rotor, and new plug wires.
      Pistons!! Nobody seems to know about this one - the JH naturally has very low compression. It's like 8.3:1 - which is great for a turbo car, or just running regular gas. Get pistons from an A2 8v GTI like the RD engine code. They are the same piston with smaller combustion chambers to give you 10:1 compression. You can often get a whole 8v engine for dirt, take the pistons, hone your cylinders real quick and swap em in with new bearings in a day with a headgasket change. This one is scarier for new people because it involves tearing the engine in half.
      A Cam is next. Cams can be had new for $100. You can get a g-grind for some euro-performance that's drivable on the street. You can get even more extreme than that too - but the more cam you have, the crappier the idle will be, and the cam might even open the valves enough to hit the pistons in the event of timing belt failure. (8vs are non-interference engines, unless you have a cam with high lift)
      Now, go ahead and do the intake, use a Fox maniflold - it has longer and larger runners, and can fit the larger throttle body. In fact, use the fox's existing throttle body - it's just as big as the Audi 5000 or Neuspeed one, and it comes with the correct linkage already on it. I'm not sure an ABD intake tube will benefit you much, but a new lower airbox will. The largest restriction will still be the CIS airflow meter, and there's not much you can do about that with CIS.
      No replacement for displacment. Get a 2.0. You can get an Audi 3A from a late 80s Audi, 9A 16v block from a Mk2 or Passat, or an ABA from a Mk3. You can bolt the JH head right onto these, or keep the crossflow head from the Mk3. The ABA block is 15mm taller, so you need a different downpipe. The Audi 3A uses a slightly different head design with the injectors in the manifold instead of the head. It flows much better, but there was only an EFI version sold in europe. So the 3A head should be considered CIS-only (unless you are Mtl-Marc)
      Next up? You've done everything cheap now. Time for Fueling. Digifant swap. Digifant however, is not very reliable, and since you now have cams, exhausts, and all that - it's not gonna do much. Megasquirt. You use all Digifant parts - the fuel rail, filter, lines, spark distributor (or use a knock sensor distributor if ya have that - it's the same one) and you can use the sensors. GM sensors for coolant and intake temp are more reliable than VW sensors - that's what I use. Contrary to popular belief, you do NOT need a TPS throttle body for megasquirt. Megasquirt can use manifold pressure readings to do accelration enrichment (adds more gas when you hit the pedal to give a better response)
      What's next? Well, if you have 10:1 pistons, then the next step is ITBs (individual throttle bodies). This is easier with a crossflow head from a Mk3, and it just bolts right on. This is pretty much the pinnacle of naturally asperated 8v performance. Add NOS or alcohol or whatever, but that's it.
      If you have the 8:1 pistons, time to go turbo - there's manifolds out there for the 8v. One meant for a mk3 fits a mk1 fine. I don't know how much boost an 8v can take, somebody else can chime in. Or, you can supercharge it like a G60 - that engine was a 1.8L and it had 160hp stock! Just don't use a G60 charger because they were extremly unreliable and expensive to fix. Eaton makes a good charger, and there are also those turbo-compressor style ones. This will require custom brackets to be made.

      Quote, originally posted by Beakersloco »
      Great post so can you post what applies to the 16V engines.

      Here's the 16v version.... (bearing in mind that I've never owned a 16v)
      A 16v already has the largest sized throttle body one can get, buying a Neuspeed on an audi one is actually a downgrade from here. Remember, a Weber will fit with an adapter, but it's a BAD idea if you drive your car every day.
      Best cheap performance - change the downpipe to a high flow TT unit. A header is better yet, but it's also louder and more prone to crack.
      Next? Exhaust. A Catback from TT is nice and cheap. You can get it with a resonator to make the car quiet as stock while being free-flowing. A Dynomax muffler is loud, and will fail quickly. A borla sounds great, restrained, and will last your lifetime. Make sure you get stainless - 16vs come with a 2" stainless with a resonator STOCK, don't downgrade!
      You may be seeing ads on ebay for a 50mm intake manifold. This sounds cool because the runners are bigger - but bewere. They were on european 16vs from the factory, then VW RECALLED them in europe to replace them with the normal 16v manifold. The larger manifold caused torque loss, and pushed the power band higher up in revs.
      Thinking about an autotech power module or something like that? forget it. It's a waste of money, and it introduces a MASSIVE failure point in the car's running. The way this works is to fake the ECU into making the mixture richer by providing a false input from the coolant temperature sensor.
      16vs already have knock sensing ignition. Make sure everything is in working order, that the knock sensor is working, new cap and rotor, and get some new plug wires. 16v wire sets are rather expensive, so buy one that'll last.
      16vs come stock with high compression 10:1 pistons. Keep them for Naturally aspirated power.
      Cams are next. Cams can be had new for $300. You can get a european set for performance that's drivable on the street. You can get even more extreme than that too - but the more cam you have, the crappier the idle will be. ALL 16v engines are interference engines. When you change the cam, change the belt. And then change it every single year. If you have a large cam, consider a racing timing belt.
      No replacement for displacment. Get a 2.0. 9A 16v block from a Mk2 16v or Passat. You can even make an ABF-like motor out of an ABA from a Mk3. You can bolt the 16v head right onto these. The ABA block is 15mm taller, so you need a different downpipe.
      Next up? You've done everything cheap now. Time for Fueling. Megasquirt. You can use all DigifantIII parts - the fuel rail, filter and fuel pressure regulator - these come from a europe-only ABF mk3 motor. You can also use a custom machined fuel rail from Bahn Brenner, or Ross Machine Racing, or USRT. GM sensors for coolant and intake temp are more reliable than VW sensors - that's what I use. Contrary to popular belief, you do NOT need a TPS throttle body for megasquirt. In fact, I use a 16v throttle body on my 8v. Megasquirt can use manifold pressure readings to do accelration enrichment (adds more gas when you hit the pedal to give a better response)
      A port and polish of the cylinder head can be good for a modded car. a 1.8L head is aparantly better for this because of the way the ports were cast. This is a machine shop service costing usually $1k or so.
      What's next? Well, since you have 10:1 pistons, then the next step is ITBs (individual throttle bodies). This is pretty much the pinnacle of naturally asperated 16v performance. Add NOS or alcohol or whatever, but that's it. You can stroke and bore the motor past 2.0L for something really crazy.
      You can buy low compression pistons, or stack metal headgaskets to go turbo - there's turbo manifolds out there for the 16v. Or, you can supercharge with a turbo-compressor type of super charger, like mr lee has on his 16v, or get a eaton kit from Bahn Brenner. An upgrade for a forced induction car is a short-ram intake manifold to replace the stock one. Turbo cars need power at the top end, short and fat runners help this out. The bigger the intercooler, the better you will be.
      A fully fueled, bored, stroked, ported, polished, camed, blueprinted, tuned and worked up turbo 16v can have more than 500whp.
      Remember, I'm only posting about POWER upgrades. There are more upgrades to be done, such as suspension, brakes, lighting, instrumentation, controls, drivtrain and transmission, and MOST importantly of all TIRES



      Modified by timbo2132 at 9:33 PM 12-31-2007

    14. Member G-rocco's Avatar
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      01-02-2008 08:52 AM #39
      Ginsters A2recaros into an A1 thread:
      http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?2753265
      Another thread talkin' 'bout recaros and a link to where you can buy brackets to drop the seats in .
      http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?3613015

    15. Member TheTimob's Avatar
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      01-13-2008 05:14 PM #40
      How to wire Foglights, Including how to make them only able to be on when the lowbeams are on...
      http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?3632146

    16. Member badpenny's Avatar
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      01-24-2008 07:23 PM #41
      Quote, originally posted by timbo2132 »
      This is for an 84.

      The relay numbered 24 according to the Bentley Manual is "Cold start enrichment(July 87 to 89 except 16v)"
      and on the opposite side with the Green and tan circle is "Coolant low-level warning control unit / Idle boost control unit (July 87 - 89 except 16v)"
      And the FUSE position 17 shown with a 10 amp fuse is OPEN, it is for the "knock sensor control unit (16v only)"
      The entire tool selection at Sears or the contents of a Snap-On truck will do you no good if you do not know how to use them.

    17. Member
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      02-05-2008 09:59 PM #42
      mkII euro high beam info. 3 different lenses!
      http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?1916472
      so we have 3 different lenses
      the 4 adjuster lens 34459R8
      and two 3 adjuster lenses. sounds like the difference between the 3 adjuster 8367R19 and 8368R19 is the addition of a reflector over the front of the bulb. which looks like can be removed.
      and they are definitly left and right specific.



      Modified by weeblebiker at 12:51 PM 2-6-2008
      '87 rocco ,ABA16VitbT, dual exhaust cams, megasquirt 2-extra v2.2 box
      volvo TD04h-14T turbo, celica intercooler, corolla manifold, gsxr itbs,beer can, staged injection, maf, COPs
      I really don't trust myself and have a tendency to catastrophize, but I don't even trust that I screw things up, so I'm pretty damn good at making and fixing stuff!

    18. Member JonnyPhenomenon's Avatar
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      07-21-2008 03:24 PM #43
      just thought I would add this to the faq since it wasnt here already. theres another sensor on the head that is missing from this pic..
      www.rikerstardresser.com - I'm a donor, are you? - www.marrow.org

    19. Member TheTimob's Avatar
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      08-18-2008 08:14 PM #44
      This is one of the most common oil leaks: the oil pressure switches. They leak from the spade, a very very tiny hole.

    20. Member TheTimob's Avatar
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      08-18-2008 08:23 PM #45
      8v non-A/C alternator brackets (the old stock brackets in my car)
      If you have an 84.5 or later, the lower bracket should be present, but the compressor bracket will be bolted to it.



      Pulley for the waterpump is different. It can be gotten from any fox - even a fox with A/C. It can also be found on some Audi cars.

      Upper bracket


    21. Member scirocco*joe's Avatar
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      09-05-2008 01:18 PM #46
      "How to tell if a Mk1 Scirocco is an S, in two parts"
      by sciroccohal and Sciroccojim
      Quote, originally posted by sciroccohal »
      Emblem
      Red bumper stripes
      Red VW
      Front ducted spoiler.
      Specific seat pattern
      Black inst cluster
      Golf ball shifter
      Rear fenderwell carpeting.
      Black out ALUMINUM window trim

      Quote, originally posted by sciroccojim »
      +
      5 Speed trans is standard
      Door cards with speaker holders are standard
      No silver stripes on top edge of tailights/around grille
      Black antenna
      Black drip channel trim
      Black-painted lower rockers
      Black lower rocker trim strips
      Side molding has a red insert instead of silver
      Special stripes on body
      Black metal door handles instead of plastic - no inserts
      Remote side view mirrors standard on both sides

      Quote, originally posted by sciroccohal »
      can someone archive this....so we don't have to repeat it every three weeks?

      There! Happy now, Hal?
      1981 Scirocco
      2010 Sportwagen TDI

      Portland, OR

    22. Member veetarded's Avatar
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      09-06-2008 11:28 PM #47
      What's even funnier is that Hal is wrong about the golfball; I'll show you the 100% original *non* golfball knob that was in mine from the factory.
      ...carry on.
      Red Leader - Team Infidel
      The Price of 7reedom is the Willingness 2 do Sudden Battle Anywhere, Anytime an6 With Utter Recklessness
      -Heinlein

    23. Member TheTimob's Avatar
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      10-02-2008 07:39 PM #48
      Here is Carl's replace the shiftrod bushing thread:
      http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?2465998

    24. Member scirocco*joe's Avatar
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      10-06-2008 03:20 PM #49
      Quote, originally posted by TheTimob »
      This is one of the most common oil leaks: the oil pressure switches. They leak from the spade, a very very tiny hole.

      But the real question is, how do you fix that?
      1981 Scirocco
      2010 Sportwagen TDI

      Portland, OR

    25. Member JonnyPhenomenon's Avatar
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      10-06-2008 04:43 PM #50
      thats easy. just replace it. they cost under 10$.
      if you squease the little boot covering it and ti goes squish, then you need to replace it.
      to replace them, they just screw in like a plug. easy to get to, easy to replace. easy peasy. [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]


      Modified by JonnyPhenomenon at 8:16 AM 10-9-2008
      www.rikerstardresser.com - I'm a donor, are you? - www.marrow.org

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