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    Thread: g60 FAQ - Read this first!

    1. 02-06-2003 09:11 AM #1
      Hello everyone-
      At the request of the masses, here's an FAQ for the g60 forum. For now, most of the content will be copied out of the FAQ in the Corrado forum, but I'd love it if we could develop some more in-depth stuff to have in here. If anyone's willing to do writeups or pictorals on common (or not so common!) procedures, or anything like that, please let me know.
      g60 topics:
      -Rebuilding the g60 Charger
      -BOV's, the boost return hose, and related topics
      -Turbo conversions for the g60 Corrado
      -16v g60 Information
      -Checking the boost on your MFA, What boost you should have with different pullies, etc.
      -Overview of g60 modifications
      -4 lug to 5 lug conversion (ie, swapping the 5-lug setup from the SLC on to a g60)
      -Removing the g60 charger
      -Automatic to Manual transmission conversions
      -Removal of the bumper and stock intercooler
      -Motor mount options - OEM and aftermarket
      -Exhaust systems
      -Coolant Flushing
      -20v Head with PG block..


      Modified by SaabFan at 3:06 PM 2-6-2004

    2. Geriatric Member ValveCoverGasket's Avatar
      Join Date
      Mar 20th, 2002
      trendy homeless camp, OR
      german and british
      02-06-2003 01:56 PM #2
      here nigels writeup on the g60 harness [IMG]http://*****************.com/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG] [IMG]http://*****************.com/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]

      this harness is from a syncro passat but we used a Corrado bentley manual to figure out where everything goes. If you want a larger picture so you can read the labels better just ask and i will e-mail them to you.
      To get the harness to this stage i soaked the harness in superclean and HOT water. this made the insulation more flexable and removes the tape and dirt much easier.
      be carefull cutting the outer covering off
      any way here is the wiring key moving in a clock wise manner from the bottom left
      Fuel Rail-Brown/Yellow stripe, solid Red goes to #87 on the fuel pump relay
      Red/Green strip- goes to #50 recieves +12v during starting
      Terminal 1 on coil (negative -)- solid Green wire larger diameter, has a specific plug for the coil
      *Heated O2 sensor- solid purple (signal), soild black (ground), brown with black stripe (ground), Red with white stripe recieves power from #87 on the fuel pump relay
      AC- solid Green but small diameter wire with yellow plug (not to be confused with the coil negative) goes to a switch in the of the interior of car the lets the brain know to idle higher because of the increased drag of the AC compressor ( i will be deleting this from my harness but http://www.snstuning.com use it to activate some of the special features available on their custom chips)
      Knock Sensor-i did not label it because if you cannot recognize which connector it is you should not be attempting this project in the first place
      ISV or Idle Stabilizer Valve- Solid White/ Black with Yellow stripe recives power from #15 which is switched 12V +.
      The ISV can be succesfully eliminated for those looking to reduce the complexity of the harness, it will idle alittle rough on cold days however the blk/ylw wire will still need to be powered
      Air Temperature/CO potentiometer- Blue solid, Blue with White stripe, Brown with White stripe
      Throttle Switches- Brown with White stripe, Red with Black stripe (idle switch), Blue with Black stripe (Full throttle switch or Wide Open Throttle or WOT switch)
      Coolant Temperature Sensor- pretty blue plug, Brown with White stripe, Brown with Green stripe
      Distributor Hall Sensor- Brown with White stripe, Green with White stripe, Red with black stripe
      Yellow with Blue stripe, goes to #85 on fuel pump relay
      Brown and Brown with black stripe are grounds.

      *Note for those with passat harnesses- the black wire in the O2 sub harness is not grounded in the actual harness connection with the brain. But instead relies on a seperate ground in the engine bay. Corrado harnesses do groung this at the ecu connection plug. So don't use a corrado O2 sensor unless you go connect the ground at the head of the wire in the ecu connector plug.

      Modified by ValveCoverGasket at 5:38 PM 7-20-2005

    3. 02-06-2003 03:12 PM #3
      here's a bunch of part #'s and usefull parts i've compiled randomly...
      i claim nothing
      Guage panel in cuby hole
      535 858 201
      90mm front lip:
      535 805 903 B
      And of course the recent repost via Bob:
      Rallye U-Bend Outlet:
      191 145 755 B
      The part number for the A/C adapter is:
      191 145 755
      You also need one Gasket:
      030 145 119
      and one Screw (M8x28mm):
      N 900 422 01 (Contributed by G60ING)
      Also here is a # for an oil pressure transponder (sender) from a 90's Cabby
      035-919-561-A It is pricey though (Contributed by CVOVP)
      Porsche 944T intercooler part# 951-110-187-003
      3.5 Bar
      Porsche 944-S, 2.5L DOHC 16V, 190hp
      Bosch # 0 280 160 263
      (Call dealer for Porsche #)
      *This is sold with most Stage 2/3 kits
      3.8 Bar
      Porsche 944S2, 968; 3.0L DOHC 16V, 208hp
      Bosch # 0 280 160 287
      Porsche # 944 110 198 06
      30# Red top injectors:
      Bosch Part #: 0 280 150 945
      Ford motorsport part # F1SE-E1A
      g bypass belt
      Most autoparts stores...59.5 inch belt
      idle screw
      037 133 432
      roof gutters
      535-853-705 and 535-853-706 (right and left)
      Simply, First production = two bolt mount, and Second production = three bolt mount.
      The number is: 191 145 755 B
      Not available as far as I can tell.
      ABA oil pump
      027 115 105B
      passat cup holder
      at vwparts.com
      redesigned wipers
      • Driver's side part number: 535-955-409-A
      • Passenger's side part number: 535-955-410-B
      62mm belt
      use a #685k6
      5k manifold
      Audi 5000 Turbo from 1986 - 1988. Earlier or later parts *might* work, or parts off different cars - I'm not completely familair with the Audi model changes. The manifold off a 1989 - 1990 200 might work, too. You basically want the manifold off the "MC" code engine, that's the 5 cylinder turbo engine they used in the Type 44 chassis from 1986 till 1990.
      *Oh, you need an 1983-84 Audi 5000 manifold.*
      rally i/c
      191 145 805G Rallye 1H engine code
      191 145 805H 2wd PG engine code
      non-ac waterpump pulley
      028 121 031E
      You can find an oil cooler on just about any Turbo volvo. '81-'85 240 Turbo, '84-'92 700 series (740, 760, 780), or the '91-'95 940 Turbo.

    4. 02-06-2003 03:25 PM #4
      more #'s from ORZ about g60 internals [IMG]http://*****************.com/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]
      once again i know nothing, i am blind
      removed prices to be fair to other rebuilders, blah blah blah
      just good luck finding all of these
      APEX Sealing Strips, short
      APEX Sealing Strips, long
      Please Note: Apex's are sold only in complete Set’s
      030 145 490C
      030 145 440C
      1.5X4.0X350mm (x4)
      1.5X4.0X525mm (x4)

      Housing, 1, empty
      037 145 407B

      Housing, 2, empty
      037 145 408B

      Main Shaft, complete
      037 145 422

      Bearing, D=32 (Secondary Shaft)
      *** 6002

      Bearing, D=42 (Secondary Shaft)
      *** 6003

      Bearing, D=52 (Housing 1 / Main Shaft)
      037 145 416
      *** 6304

      Needle Bearing, (Displacer / Secondary Shaft)
      037 145 481
      *** 310-7436AB

      Needle Bearing, D=35 (Housing 2 / Main Shaft)
      052 145 412
      *** NU202

      Needle Bearing, D=42 (Displacer / Main Shaft)
      037 145 475
      *** 10-6879A

      Secondary Shaft, complete
      037 145 421B

      Fitting Key, big (Balance Weight / Main Shaft)
      N101 261 01

      Fitting Key, small (Balance Weight / Main Shaft)
      N101 262 01

      Displacer, complete
      037 145 473B

      Shaft Sealing Ring, D=42 (Displacer / *** 10-6879A)
      030 145 413
      30X42X5.5/6 (x2)
      Shaft Sealing Ring, D=45 (Housing 1-outside / *** 6304)
      030 145 410
      30X45X6 (x1)
      Shaft Sealing Ring, D=52 (Housing 1-inside / *** 6304)
      030 145 414
      30X52X7/8 (x1)
      Shaft Sealing Ring, D=35 (Main Shaft / NU202)
      030 145 415
      20X35X7 (x1)
      Corrugated Spring (APEX Sealing Strips / Housing 1 & 2)
      052 145 439A
      1.2X0.2X520 (x4)
      Toothed Belt
      052 145 437R

    5. 02-06-2003 03:39 PM #5
      your words are like gold Nate, bling bling
      There are 4 different 02A trannies that will bolt up - two from g60 Corrados - the ATA that came on 1989's and 1990's, and the AYL that came on 91's and 92's.
      The 4-cyl Passat came with either an AYK or AGC tranny.
      As far as ratios, the final drive isn't the only difference between the 4. Sam's right, the difference between the common Corrado box (ATA, 3.64 final) and the common Passat box (AGC, 3.944 final) is only the final drive - the Passat has a shorter final, which means better acceleration at the cost of higher revs for a given speed and a lower top speed.
      But, the AYL and AYK trannies have more differences than just the final drive. They both have the taller 3.64 final drive from the ATA and the same gearset as eachother (AYL and AYK are more or less identical) but the gearset is different than the one used in the ATA and AGC. It's the same first gear, but shorter 2nd - 5th gears, so you more or less end up with ratios shorter than the ATA's - close to but a little teeny bit taller than the AGC's, but with a taller 1st gear.
      From tallest to shortest, here's the differences:
      ATA - 3.64 final and gearset most of us have
      AYK/AYL - 3.64 final but shorter gearset
      AGC - 3.944 final, and same gearset as ATA
      And if you were really creative, you could create a whole range of boxes by mixing the different individual cogs.
      Here's a chart of the gear ratios - first line for each box is the individual ratios, second line is the effective ratio (individual multiplied by final):
      _________Final______1_________2__________3________ 4________5
      ATA______3.684_____3.778_____2.105______1.345____0 .971_____0.795
      __________________13.918_____7.754______4.954____3 .577_____2.928
      AYL______3.684_____3.778_____2.118______1.429____1 .029_____0.838
      __________________13.918_____7.802______5.264____3 .790_____3.087
      AYK______3.684_____3.778_____2.118______1.429____1 .029_____0.838
      __________________13.918_____7.802______5.264____3 .790_____3.087
      AGC______3.944____3.778______2.105______1.345___0. 971_____0.795
      __________________14.900_____8.302______5.304____3 .829_____3.135
      -Nate (Saabfan)
      can you tell i'm bored today?

    6. 02-06-2003 05:02 PM #6
      BUY AN AIR FUEL GAUGE: http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku or else.
      Compatible O2 sensors for cheap:
      86 V6 Taurus or 89 Mustang 5.0 see how to wire it up-->
      (preferred 89 mustang 5.0 long leaded, bosch 13953).
      Modified by mrkrad at 7:42 PM 2-23-2007

      Modified by mrkrad at 8:08 PM 2-23-2007

    7. 02-07-2003 10:12 AM #7
      I'll add more later but this was good, Step by Step G60 supercharger inspection, courtesy of g60racer.

    8. 02-09-2003 05:54 PM #8

      Videos for broadband folks. Mostly entertainment:
      Video of prototype eaton compressor:
      Video of o2 sensor proper function (no-lag 11mg):
      Similar but smaller video:

      Modified by mrkrad at 7:44 PM 2-23-2007

    9. 02-17-2003 09:56 AM #9
      Thanks for all the posts everyone. As soon as I get some spare time I'll organize this better and put a TOC of links up.
      Keep it coming!

    10. Member fastg60's Avatar
      Join Date
      Mar 4th, 2002
      Fairbanks, AK/Afghanistan
      92 Corrado TDI
      02-17-2003 11:36 AM #10
      Danny doing something video:
      no worky even if you make it wmv instead of vmw....

    11. 03-04-2003 07:31 PM #12
      Everything you ever wanted to know about your FPR:

    12. 03-21-2003 09:39 AM #14
      [NOTE: I live in the south where it's damn hot all the time. Some of you folks up North may not want to run such heavy oil when it's -30 outside. I would definitely recommend using the heaviest oil your climate allows.]

      Here's a checklist for when the oil pressure warning sounds. A lot of people say it only comes on when cornering. I fought with this for about 3 years on and off -- on both mine and PoweredbyG60's cars - so feel I've tried almost everything. Some of the G60 experts may scorn, but this has to be one of the suckiest problems when you're a new G60 owner.
      These are in order of simplicity. Eliminate the easy stuff first. Even if it doesn't help, hey it never hurts to have new oil [IMG]http://*****************.com/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]
      1. Oil and oil filter -- 20W50. Even though I recently forgot this. With lighter oil you will see lower oil pressures and possibly hear some valve chatter. Use the OEM filter. I tried several brands, only the OEM stopped the idiot light flashing.
      2. Oil pressure switches -- There are two. One on top of the oil filter housing and one on the right side of the head. I thought the ones from Autozone would work fine -- they don't. Most of the third party switches will be marked with a single pressure value. The OEM ones operate over a pressure range. They don't cost a fortune and again, can't hurt to take them out of the equation. Also, check the wiring to the pressure senders. After fixing my oil pressure problem, the warning and idiot light both went off driving to work this morning. Gauges reads good but I pull over to check anyway. The yellow wire from the sender on top of the oil filter housing is hanging free. Everytime it touched against the block and grounded the warning went off. (Or maybe it's the other way round.) Anyway, check for bad connections.
      056 919 081E -- 1.8 Bar, White
      068 919 081 -- 1.2 - 1.6 Bar, Black
      068 919 081A -- 1.9 Bar, Brown
      Still looking -- 0.25 Bar, Blue

      3. Oil pump snorkel may be blocked -- When I dropped my oil pan I found that somehow the plastic baffle was broken and bits of it had been chewed up by the crank. Plastic shavings completely blocked the feeder tube for the pump. Thank God there's a screen there.
      4. Rod bearings -- by this point, I hope you've installed an oil pressure gauge to confirm your low pressure. If so and you're showing 0psi at idle you may have spun a bearing (thanks Sam). If you show 0 psi when driving STOP DRIVING. Rod bearings are not too difficult to replace and it's a good way to get acquainted with some of the internal workings of your engine.
      034 105 701 -- Rod Bearing
      5. Oil pump -- I have been reliably informed by G60ing that it's unusual for a G60 oil pump to go bad. If it does, they're pretty pricey. There's an 8V oil pump you can use that about $100 cheaper http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=562268.
      037115105 -- G60 Oil Pump
      6. If after all that you still have verified low oil pressure, you're looking at possibly bad main bearings or maybe even worse. I've never had to take it this far so all I can suggest is and

      [Modified by Blown6T, 8:37 AM 4-9-2003]

    13. Member Strictly Gravy's Avatar
      Join Date
      Mar 15th, 2003
      NE GA
      TT 5.9 Cummins, G8 GT, 72 Powerwagon, 39 International
      03-31-2003 12:23 PM #15
      rebuild your charger.......
      here are the rebuilders: (alphabetical order)
      ps: this is a bump

      [Modified by Strictly Gravy, 4:26 PM 4-2-2003]
      08 Dodge Ram 2500 Megacab - S467.7 Turbo, 40% injectors, EFI Live....521 WHP / 1011 WTQ
      09 G8 GT - Stock mountain runner
      2014 Dodge Ram 2500 - The Pipeline Pig

    14. Member G60ING's Avatar
      Join Date
      Jun 27th, 2000
      Panhandle FL
      2010 3.6 4-Motion CC, 1990 G60/TDI/R36 Corrado
      04-04-2003 06:07 AM #16
      How to ship your charger:
      Insure for $2500-$3000 as that is what it costs for a NEW charger
      And let it be said use Fedex (express or ground) or UPS. But do not use USPS as they do not insure the full amount of replacment

      [Modified by G60ING, 6:08 AM 4-4-2003]

    15. Member G60ING's Avatar
      Join Date
      Jun 27th, 2000
      Panhandle FL
      2010 3.6 4-Motion CC, 1990 G60/TDI/R36 Corrado
      04-08-2003 09:54 AM #17

    16. 04-11-2003 10:52 AM #18
      When your charger bites the dust but you need to drive:
      G60 Emergency Bypass Instructions
      originally submitted by Yosh Hakutani to the CCA website
      edited by cbgthor for Vortexers
      Items needed:
      1. 13mm socket + 13mm wrench
      2. phillips and flathead screwdrivers
      3. Jack/Jackstand will make things easier
      4. 59.5 inch serpentine belt. Any local autoparts store will be able to get you one. Just tell them the specific length you need.
      5. Gloves or towel (optional)
      6. duct tape/racer tape, always comes in handy
      7. cone filter (optional, unless you don't mind having the air run through the dead/not spinning charger, through the intercooler, and finally into the intake mani. However, very necessary if your charger spit pieces of metal into the pipes)
      8. Rubber Mallet - may come in handy, either for getting the tensioner off or taking out your frustration about the blown g-lader on the blown g-lader
      >Procedure 1:
      1. remove the nut @ the top of the serpentine belt tensioner. wearing the gloves, push down on the tensioner while rocking it back and forth towards the passenger side. Rubber mallet works too and doesn't hurt it. The tensioner will come off.
      2. remove the airbox
      3. jack up the passenger side and place the jackstand firmly.
      4. >Remove the water-pump/power-steering belt. There are 2 nuts perpendicular and 1 nut that will remove the tension - (all 13mm).
      >Just remove the power steering pump pulley to get the v-belt off. Three allen wrench bolts.
      5. Look at how the serpentine belt routes itself around the crank pulley, ac compressor, alternator, and the supercharger. (diagrams in the Bentley manual if you forget) All we will be doing is to bypass the supercharger. In essence, from the top of the AC compressor, we loop around one of the idler pulleys and go to the alternator.
      It's really pretty self explanatory. It's exactly like it was with the charger, except it doesn't loop up to the charger. Either make note of its path beforehand or use the Bentley manual
      6. Use the 59.5 in serpentine belt and reverse the instructions.

      >Procedure 2 - if your g-lader has blown up and sent bits into the intercooler
      You're going to need some more tools for this.
      1. Remove the rubber elbow between the intake / throttle body and the outlet pipe from the intercooler. does it have metal in it? no? great! Go to #2. yes? you probably got some metal into the engine. bad news. I don't know what you should do at this point - tow the car?
      2. Remove the outlet pipe from the intercooler - to get to the clamp, you may need to remove some of the wheel well housing as well as the driver's side brake cooling duct.
      3. Roll the duct/racer tape around the rubber intake pipe. (on the end that was attached to the outlet pipe from the intercooler) The idea is to build the hose up to where it will match the diameter of the cone filter so that you can attach it directly to the intake, bypassing the clogged intercooler and blowing metal into the engine. Alternatively, I suppose you could attach the airbox directly to the intake...Might be limited on space though.
      "A long term issue is what to do with the PCV valve blow off oil. You could pipe from the valve into an secured oil bottle - just empty it out everyonce in a while."
      general discussion on the topic if you're not convinced:
      With determination and patience, and a trunk of the right tools, this can be done on the side of the road. I used to keep all the stuff I need for this in my trunk, purely out of paranoia.
      I guess this is more for the youngin's like myself, I'm sure all the pros wouldn't have to think twice about it

      Modified by cbgthor at 6:57 PM 6-15-2005

    17. 07-06-2003 10:05 PM #19
      Here's a writeup I did on replacing stock boost tubes with Eurosport tubes (90 G60 only). The links are to various pics of the procedure.
      What you will need:
      6mm socket
      8mm socket
      10mm socket
      12mm socket
      various 1/4" and 3/8" drive extensions (the longer the better)
      needle nose pliers
      phillips and flat screwdriver
      shop rags
      This was a fairly easy procedure, a 2 or 3 on a scale of 1-10, 10 being the hardest. Anyone who tinkers around with their car will have no problem doing this. There's not too much you can screw up.
      You can probably do this w/o removing the l/f wheel and brake duct, but it would make life a hell of a lot easier.
      Here's the old tubes
      ... and the new tubes before they go on the car:

      1. Disconnect battery
      2. Remove battery from car
      3. Loosen wheel lugs on l/f wheel
      4. Jack up car and place jack stand underneath
      5. Remove l/f wheel
      6. Remove single phillips and two 10mm bolts inside fender well
      7. Remove one 10mm bolt from front of brake duct (on passenger front side of duct)
      8. Pull duct out
      9. Loosen bottom clamps on both boost tubes (near the intercooler) using either 6mm socket or flat screwdriver
      10. Loosen top clamps on both boost tubes (from top of engine compartment) using either 6mm socket or flat screwdriver
      12. Remove 10mm bolt on midway tab connected to fan shroud on front tube
      13. Remove old front boost tube
      14. Remove grommet from old boost tube and place into new boost tube
      15. Install new boost tube - installation is reverse of removal
      16. Disconnect electrial connector on co_pot on rear boost tube
      17. Remove 10mm bolt on midway tab connected to unibody ledge on rear tube
      18. Remove old rear boost tube
      19. Carefully remove co_pot from old boost tube as to not damage the o-ring. If o-ring
      looks damaged, replace with a new one.
      20. Place co_pot in new tube
      21. Remove grommet from old boost tube and place into new boost tube
      22. Install new rear boost tube - installation is the reverse of removal
      23. Install brake duct - installation is reverse of removal
      24. Install battery and reconnect
      25. Install l/f wheel
      26. Remove jackstand, lower car and torque wheel lugs
      New tubes in the car...
      You're done! Enjoy your new boost tubes!


    18. Member SSj4G60's Avatar
      Join Date
      Aug 12th, 2001
      07-12-2003 06:50 PM #20
      Serp 6 rib 65"
      Vbelt 26.5"
      use 15mm spacer for where power steering attaches to accesory bracket

    19. Member zedcorrado's Avatar
      Join Date
      Jul 23rd, 2001
      North of NYC
      '95 Corrado; '12 CC R-line
      08-29-2003 04:09 PM #21
      Replacement WOT and Idle Switches
      Instead of dropping $75-$150 on a new set of throttle position switches, you can buy these nifty replacements. I have used one on my car for about 9 months w/o a problem.
      the switches can be purchased from mouser electronics
      part number: 653-D2SW-3L1MS >> $4.30
      it can be found on the following catalog page at the bottom of the page.
      it is watertight and heat resistant. it comes w/ the little arm (lever) on it which is good for the WOT switch, but I pulled it off of mine since I was doing a Idle switch replacement. it has mounting holes on it that line up to the stock mounting points, I used little screws and nuts to hold it there. be aware that it come with 3 leads...one is common, one it normally closed, one is normally open...so just figure out (it's labeled) which is the normally open one and cut the other lead off. good luck, and IM me if you need help

    20. 09-02-2003 09:21 AM #22
      I'm not sure how long this update will last, but newbies, or others, please please, do the basic homework on your car before asking the same old questions.
      1. Check the ECU-TB Vacuum line (And all others for damage on ends or in middle).
      2. Do obvious tune up stuff (plugs,wires,knock,o2,blue cts) before...
      3. BUY A FREAKIN A/F GAUGE (seriously, please, by god, buy one), it helps SO much to know you've done the basics and have an air fuel gauge (and boost gauge) to backup any claims of poor running.
      An example might be:
      I'm getting low MPG, i've replaced everything includig the timing belt, but my air fuel gauge is reading rich all the time, my vacuum is at 5hg at idle. I have no power?
      Poor Example:
      My car started bucking, what is wrong?
      Alot of messages end up being the usual protocol of did you try this and that, however, i noticed ALOT of the messages start off with extremely vague questions.
      Do not forget:
      RPM (start,idle,cruise,wot,part throttle,high,low)
      Distance (immediate,after a short bit, after a long while).
      A/f gauge behaviour (cycling, randomly pegging, lean, rich always)
      Manifold pressure (boost gauge, at idle, cruise, max boost).
      What I haven't changed but should have at this mileage.
      What I have changed recently.
      If i forgot anything,mods,anyone please feel free to add more, but please be VERY Detailed in your questions. It saves alot of typing and guessing. You may be frustrated at the time, go kick your tires, then calm down and replay all the variables in your head when the problem occurrs, it certainly will help us help you get to the problem alot quicker without a dozen guesses.
      If you don't have a boost/a&f gauge, well see above in this faq. Money well worth every cent. And the boost gauge is built into your cluster if you are really hard up, but the a/f isn't.

    21. Member REPOMAN's Avatar
      Join Date
      May 3rd, 2001
      Portland OR
      1990 VW Corrado
      09-23-2003 10:38 PM #23
      Last edited by REPOMAN; 06-20-2011 at 10:47 PM.
      500HP 1990 Cowrado
      Have a great Orwellian Day

    22. Member REPOMAN's Avatar
      Join Date
      May 3rd, 2001
      Portland OR
      1990 VW Corrado
      11-07-2003 12:24 AM #24
      Boost curve: Where is boost produced, peaky vs. early or broad. Ranking: Lysholm screw-type SC, vain-style turbo, Roots, classic turbo(?), Centrifugal SC last.
      Lag: How much time between gas pedal application and noticeable boost. THis is significant at low rpms. Ranking: Lysholm screw-type SC, vain-style turbo, Roots, classic turbo(?). Centrifugal SC has very little boost below 3K.
      Here is the Official list , it probably needs to be Updated
      so you know the rules , put up or shut up. if it isn't on the list
      then there full of sh it. so if you wnat on post you dyno and we will add you.
      G60 Top 20 Lists All ##are at the wheels
      1.8l 8v P&P Stage 4 15psi fmic
      Avg = 196.5
      2. G60 247 (G60)HIGHEST 8v hyd G60
      Stage 4+, 65mm, 81.5mm bore, headwork, 30#, GIAC
      Avg = 194.1
      3. Fast_bunny
      1.8l 8v g60 stage 3 head /liquid intercooler
      186.1hp/199.7tq 17psi
      Avg = 192.9
      4. lilg60rkt
      8v Stage 4+, G60 58mm
      Avg = 191.4
      1.9L 8V 9:1 CR stg 3 head KK STGII
      65mm 18psi Rallie outlet#36 inj.2.5exh
      179.9WHP 200WTQ
      1.8l 8v hyd p&p bbm stage 4 65mm G60
      Avg = 187.5
      7. MaineCorrado
      Avg = 182.35
      1.9l fmic 3.5 fpr 5 chip#30inj header
      p&p 17 psi
      177.9hp 187.5tq
      9. Lance-G60
      Avg = 182

      10. URIN 2ND
      8v Stage 4+ G60
      Avg = 179.15
      11. G60ING
      Avg = 179.1
      12. BLUE NRG
      Avg = 178.35
      13. G60Jason
      Avg = 178.0
      14. jwatts
      Avg = 176.85
      15. 1993jetta GL (G60)
      8v Stage 4+, TT D/P, 2.5 Exh.
      Avg = 172.65
      16. VW1990CORRADO
      1.8l 8v Stage 4+
      Avg = 171.55
      17. mpaster
      Avg = 169.65
      1.8l stage 4 16psi
      162WHP 172WTQ
      add 40shot 202WHP 306WTQ
      Avg = 165.45
      Avg = 163
      16v G60
      1. DougG60 HIGHEST HP 16V
      2L 16VG60, 50lb inj, SDS 68mm
      12psi 8.7:1 CR, 3.6 bar FPR
      stock cams, stock IC
      Avg = 224
      2.DougG60 (Nitrous)
      Stage 4+, 50-shot
      Avg = 223.5
      TURBO 8v
      1. mrkrad HIGHEST Tubro HP 8V HYD HEAD
      1.8l 8v T3 Super 60 @ 20 psi
      Avg = 226.5
      1.8l 8v super 60 giant ft/mt intercooler
      194hp / 220tq
      AVG = 207
      1.8l 8v P&P head &TB 30lb 260 cam T3-60 w/.48
      3.5 fpr 14psi
      176WHP 213WTQ
      AVG= 194.5
      TURBO 16V
      2.0L 16VT 8.5:1 comp gt3076 .63ar 26psi 268
      82# injectors 034efi
      Avg = 376.5
      ABA 16V T3-4e 57 w/ 9:1 compression
      AT cams w/ 1.8L head.@ ~13psi
      250whp & 230wtq
      LYSHOLM 8v
      1.Boomdaddymack HIGHEST HP 8V SOLID LIFTERHEAD
      Lysholm 20 psi, Air/Water, 8v Solid lifter head
      Avg = 225.95
      2. REPOMAN
      2.0L 8v P&P w/a I/C stage 5 Lysholm 22psi #30 Malpassi FPR
      Avg = 228.5
      1.9L PG Stg 4head 276/272 cam
      42# injectors SNS Chip Lysholm 57mm y
      PWR air/water intercooler
      235hp 205wtq
      4.Peter Tong
      2.0l ABA Eurospec head FMIC
      G grind cam 240t CIS 15psi Lysholm
      190whp 200wtq
      lysholm 15psi 260/268 cam #30 inj pnp head/intake
      tb, tt 2 1/4 exhaust
      190hp 188tq
      1.8l 8v Lysholm
      Avg = 186.45
      1.8l 8v lysholm fmic 12psi
      171hp 181tq
      1.8l 8v Lysholm
      Avg = 172.8
      1.9l 8v Lysholm, non-intercooled, 9:1 CR
      Avg = 169
      1.8l 8v Lysholm
      Avg = 156.2
      16v LYSHOLM
      1. Repoman
      2.0l 16v Lysholm 22psi 8.5:1 comp w/W/A IC 034efi
      262whp 242wtq
      1.8l 16v Lysholm 17psi 7.5-1 comp w/a i/c Tec III
      254.4HP 219.8TQ
      3. Staggerlee
      1.9l 16v PnP, Stock Cams
      42# Inj FMIC 13 psi SNS
      211whp 199wtq
      20v Lysholm
      1.8 Lysholm AEB

      Last edited by REPOMAN; 06-20-2011 at 11:01 PM.
      500HP 1990 Cowrado
      Have a great Orwellian Day

    23. Member G60ING's Avatar
      Join Date
      Jun 27th, 2000
      Panhandle FL
      2010 3.6 4-Motion CC, 1990 G60/TDI/R36 Corrado
      11-13-2003 08:15 AM #25

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