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    Thread: g60 FAQ - Read this first!

    1. 07-07-2004 07:45 PM #36
      stolen from the 8v forum FAQ - good sites on Digifant:

      Quote, originally posted by DanielAdams »
      Where can I find basic information about Digifant fuel injection?

      Where can I find Digifant technical documentation (for advanced questions)?


    2. Member REPOMAN's Avatar
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      07-09-2004 08:29 PM #37
      you wanted it you got it thanks to a certin Vortex member who works for a certin company [you know who you are]
      I am Able to bring you
      Labratory comparionsen of the G charger and the Lysholm Twin Screw
      Enjoy.








      Last edited by REPOMAN; 08-08-2010 at 08:56 PM.

    3. Member REPOMAN's Avatar
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      07-10-2004 06:57 PM #38
      My 16v Lysholm build thread

      http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3826575



      Modified by REPOMAN at 10:04 AM 11-23-2008

      500HP 1990 Cowrado
      Have a great Orwellian Day
      https://www.youtube.com/user/RepomanPro

    4. Member ButchHusky's Avatar
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      90 Corrado G60 & 08 Passat wagon TSI
      07-31-2004 02:52 PM #39
      Alright, here are the sizes of the vacuum caps I used when I removed my carbon canister: one 5/32" (3.96mm) for the back of the T-body, one 5/32" for the front of the plastic/rubber T coming off the intake manifold, one 3/16" (4.76mm) for the side of the plastic/rubber T and one 3/8" (9.53mm) for the side of the T-body. Don't forget to zip tie the caps!

      Brian


    5. Member bulldog2.G's Avatar
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      09-23-2004 02:57 PM #40
      NON-Oil Cooler 8v coolant hose Part#'s
      http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=1583272

      and on an unrelated note:

      Gravy's Coolant Flush: HIS Way. http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=1704369

      Shawn's crank pulley fix..
      http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=1598023


      Modified by bulldog2.G at 10:08 AM 3-11-2005


    6. 05-13-2005 12:49 PM #41

    7. 07-16-2005 10:16 AM #42
      charger bybass belt lenght for 8vg60 stock without a/c is 1250mm. Marked QBR61250 i think it is 49.21 inch

    8. 09-22-2005 10:14 AM #43
      16v g60 intake elbow,

      For fun




      Modified by ntonar at 10:03 AM 1-26-2006


    9. Member clintg60-16v's Avatar
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      '90 Corrado 1.9 16V Lysholm, '06 Passat 2.0T, '07 Passat Variant 2.0T, and ghosts of misc '75s...
      04-11-2006 08:53 PM #44
      "Sense is something you can't even make sense of until you've been to the future, and spent time there..."

    10. Member psykokid's Avatar
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      10-19-2006 07:40 PM #45
      info for when using the volvo oil cooler setup:

      when using the volvo thermostatic sandwich plate, the o-ring that goes between the plate and the stock vw oil filter flange is volvo part number 925093-7.

      the thread pitch for the volvo plate if you want to use an fittings and other lines is M16x1.5.

      the thread pitch of the stock volvo oil cooler is 1/2" BSP

      the thread pitch of the oil filter pipe is 3/4"x16. you can make life simple by just snagging the oil filter pipe from the junkyard when you grab the thermostatic plate. its the same size that vw (and most other european mfgs) use so it bolts right in and is the correct length

      You can't polish a turd, but you can roll it in glitter

    11. 01-20-2007 04:09 PM #46
      ABA EATON G60 .MOV
      http://home.test-afl.tulix.com/sbrown1/o2/ABA-G60-eaton.MOV

      Another ABA Eaton .MOV
      http://home.test-afl.tulix.com...2.MOV

      more eaton vids
      http://home.test-afl.tulix.com...0.avi

      even more Eaton Vids:
      http://home.test-afl.tulix.com...0.avi

      Silenced 20V (non-bbm kit)
      http://home.test-afl.tulix.com...V.WMV

      Chip Install Digi-1 vid:
      http://home.test-afl.tulix.com...l.WMV

      Just a slow drive on I75:
      http://home.test-afl.tulix.com...n.WMV

      Hanging in the Parking Lot with a guy with a gold scirocco g60 now lysholm:
      http://home.test-afl.tulix.com...t.WMV


      Lesuirely Saturday drive:
      http://home.test-afl.tulix.com...y.WMV

      Leisurely Sunday :
      http://home.test-afl.tulix.com...y.WMV

      Sunday Breaks:
      http://home.test-afl.tulix.com...s.WMV

      Hanging out working on cars:
      http://home.test-afl.tulix.com...y.WMV

      Another Hangout video:
      http://home.test-afl.tulix.com...2.wmv

      2.0 16V with tiny t3-60 turbo gets squirrelly with fast boost spool:
      http://home.test-afl.tulix.com...t.wmv


    12. 01-28-2007 02:01 AM #47
      The Porsche 3.5 bar fuel pressure regulator is made by several manufacturers. It is up to you to verify the received part and its rating
      I dug up this file today cleaning up my old hard drive and contribute it to the faq:

      AIRTEX Part # 5G1305
      Motronic; 928 110 198 04, 944 110 198 04 ~$46.89

      STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS Part # PR67 ~ $59

      ACDELCO Part # 2172205 {#89054444}
      REGULATOR KIT,FUEL PRESS -; 0280160263 ~$55.79

      KEM 143-809 [EFI PRESSURE REGULATOR] Motronic; OE# 928-110-198-04;944-110-198-04;0-280-160-263 AIRFUEL ~44.88 bbautoparts.com

      Keep in mind the prices have probably gone up, you may have dealer access to these parts or 5 finger discounts. Also keep in mind this performance 3.5bar , make sure you get what you order. Some aftermarket places ship the wrong product.

      The Porsche Dealer part # is 944-110-198-04 if you work at porsche go for it.
      The Bosch part # of course is 0 280 160 263

      Stage 4 chips require this. Happy hunting on pricing. I spent a lot of time cross referencing these a long time ago and tried best effort to ensure the parts did indeed reference the 3.5 bar part but you know some of these folks (KEM??) probably some off brand.


    13. Member REPOMAN's Avatar
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      07-25-2007 11:51 PM #48












      [IMG][/IMG]

      500HP 1990 Cowrado
      Have a great Orwellian Day
      https://www.youtube.com/user/RepomanPro

    14. 02-18-2008 09:10 PM #49
      Hello, I'm putting a G60 from a passat syncro into my MK1 GTI. Do you know what kind of headders I shoud consider.

    15. Member L8 APEKS's Avatar
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      02-23-2008 08:31 PM #50
      G60 (MkII) steering lock malfunction

      If you insert your key but your steering wheel remains locked or stuck and will not turn, your steering lock has malfunctioned. You do NOT have to spend $138 from the dealer to replace it! You can remove that pesky, weak attempt at "factory theft prevention" with the following tools:

      Bentley manual (section 48)
      Dremel w/ cutting disc
      Large flat-blade screwdriver
      Vise grips or channel locks

      Follow the directions to remove the lock cylinder from the steering lock assembly. Using the dremel, cut a slot between the two screw holes at the top of the assembly.

      Using the large flat blade, gently pry open the notch you just cut through the steering lock assembly. 3/4" should be enough for you to pull the "deadbolt" free from the steering column and remove the steering lock assembly from the shaft.

      Simply take your vice grips and pull the deadbolt and spring out from the steering lock assembly. Viola...it will never get stuck on you again, and you just saved $138 in parts and 2 hours of labor charges!

      Sean Williams :: SoCal

    16. 03-03-2008 11:47 PM #51
      good to know

    17. 04-02-2008 08:02 AM #52
      amazon has 26#(stock size),30#,36#,44# for like super cheap.

      free ship and no tax in most states.

      search for set of 4 injectors.

      26# =89$,30#=83$,36#=139,32#=105$

      pricing changes daily but i rock their 30# they are awesome.

      think about it new fpr $75 or new injectors. or clean injectors $75 or new injectors $89 (26#) nuff said.

      passing the deal.


    18. 05-05-2008 06:38 PM #53
      sweet deal...

      btw repoman what IHI compressor was the charts above talking about?

      my 1.6L IHI is much different than those...


    19. Member Daskoupe's Avatar
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      06-27-2008 10:07 PM #54
      what should the resistance read on the COPOT?(between terminals 1 and 3)
      12.2@116mph-293whp305wtq 22psi stock aba-AC-DD My Jetta
      Current Want list-lugtronic
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    20. Member the_mad_rabbit's Avatar
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      10-08-2008 12:45 AM #55
      Quote, originally posted by the_mad_rabbit »

      What you need:
      $75 shipped from HF- full helicoil kit
      Ratchet and 10mm socket
      Beer
      10 minutes from your life

      Note: Charger bolt is 8mx1.25

      BOOYAKASHA!

      WAOOO!!!!

      What's this?

      OMG! SEX!

      So, i got busy with the repair of mr. charger outlet that got stripped out thanks to a too-long-of-a-bolt AND previous-owner-is-an-idiot
      Theres mr. charger- notice how there are no threads and its smooth? Well, that was BEFORE i even drilled it out.

      (insert drilling out hole)

      To begin with, my improvised thread tool as I'm not wasting $10 on the dam thing when I have the tools available to replicate/replace/improve on it:

      (10mm socket)

      Stuffed

      Tapped (use WD 40 and a good amount of pressure)

      Installed

      Tested

      Jerked of in a corner over extreme excitement

      Obligatory beer for success

      Now have fun.

      -AJ

      All up in your harble, stealing your internets.
      "Life is like a bad margarita with good tequila, I thought as I poured whiskey onto my granola and faced a new day"
      Grow old or die trying.
      My rocket and My baby...

    21. Member REPOMAN's Avatar
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      11-15-2008 03:42 PM #56
      The DIGIFANT uses a MAP [Manifold Absolute Pressure] sensor
      mounted in the ecu it is a specific size, 1 bar=15psi the sensor
      fills with the manifold pressure sending its reading to the ECU 8MB
      EPROM chip to adjust the injector pulse according to the program. I.E. digi lag.

      The ODB 1 and ODB 2 ecu uses a MAF [Mas Air Flow] the problematic
      air flow meter on the intake track measures the air flow entering the
      engine, calculates the values then sends it to the processor for instant fuel correction .

      For proper combustion the proper fuel ratio and ignition timing need
      to happen so the working gases ignite evenly across the piston top.

      Most engines produce maximum power (with optimized ignition
      timing) at an air-fuel-ratio between 12 and 13. Let's assume the
      optimum is in the middle at 12.5. This means that for every kg of
      air, 0.08 kg of fuel is mixed in and vaporized. The vaporization of
      the fuel extracts 28 kJ of energy from the air charge. If the mixture
      has an air-fuel-ratio of 11 instead, the vaporization extracts 31.8 kJ
      instead. A difference of 3.8 kJ. Because air has a specific heat of
      about 1 kJ/kg*deg K, the air charge is only 3.8 C (or K) degrees
      cooler for the rich mixture compared to the optimum power mixture.
      This small difference has very little effect on knock or power output.

      the mixture gets ignited by the spark, a flame front spreads out from
      the spark plug. This burning mixture increases the pressure and
      temperature in the cylinder. At some time in the process the
      pressures and temperatures peak. The speed of the flame front is
      dependent on mixture density and AFR. A richer or leaner AFR than
      about 12-13 AFR burns slower. A denser mixture burns faster.

      So with a engine under boost the mixture density raises and results in
      a faster burning mixture. The closer the peak pressure is to TDC, the
      higher that peak pressure is, resulting in a high knock probability.
      Also there is less leverage on the crankshaft for the pressure to
      produce torque, and, therefore, less power.


      The spark plug ignites the mixture and the fire starts burning. The
      speed of this flame front depends on the mixture, this means how
      many air and fuel molecules are packed together in the combustion
      chamber. The closer they are packed together in the same volume,
      the easier it is for the fire to jump from one set of molecules to the
      other. The burning speed is also dependent on the air-fuel-ratio. At
      about 12.5 to 13 air-fuel-ratio the mixture burns fastest. A leaner
      mixture than that burns slower. A richer mixture also burns slower.
      That's why the maximum power mixture is at the fastest burn speed.
      It takes some time for this flame front to consume all the fuel in the
      combustion chamber. As it burns, the pressure and temperature in
      the cylinder increases. This pressure peaks at some point after TDC
      . Many experiments have shown that the optimum position for this
      pressure peak is about 15 to 20 degrees after TDC. The exact
      location of the optimum pressure peak is actually independent of
      engine load or RPM, but dependent on engine geometry.

      The advances in power of modern engines, despite the lower quality
      of gasoline today, comes partially from improvements in combustion
      chamber and spark plug location. Modern engines are optimized so
      that the flame front has the least distance to travel and consumes the
      mixture as fast as possible. An already burned mixture can no longer
      explode and therefore higher compression ratios are possible with
      lower octane fuel. Some race or high performance engines actually
      have 2 or three spark plugs to ignite the mixture from multiple
      points. This is done so that the actual burn time is faster with multiple
      flame fronts. Again, this is to consume the mixture faster without
      giving it a chance to self-ignite.

      500HP 1990 Cowrado
      Have a great Orwellian Day
      https://www.youtube.com/user/RepomanPro

    22. Member REPOMAN's Avatar
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      04-11-2009 11:20 AM #57

      INA Engineering : Official VWVortex Rotrex Supercharger

      What kind of boost pressure and heat will we see from these chargers?
      if we have a OEM crank pully of 5 3/4" = 146mm
      and the smallest Rotrex charger pully is 70mm
      then that makes it a 2.0:1 engine rpm to charger rpm ratio
      that means on a PG engine i would see 6500rpm = 13000
      on a built engine i could see 8000rpm = 16000
      that would mean the charger input shaft will be spinning
      13000rpm or 16000rpm
      at 1:7.5 impeller ratio on your largest charger
      that equals 97500rpm or 112000rpm

      on the C38-61 the flow chart shows a 3.6 - 4.6 pressure ratio

      1 psi = 0.7031 grams/square millimetre

      at the maxime Charger RPM at 0.40 kg/S
      x 3.6 = 1.44 kg 0r 1.4 bar =20psi
      x 4.6 = 1.84 kg or 1.8 bar =26psi

      the C38-71 shows at max rpm a 0.45 kg/s
      x 4.6 = 2.07kg or 2.0 bar = 29psi
      this looks goodBUT the flow chart shows 115000 rpm
      were the ad says 90,000 rpm Maximum Impeller Speed
      NOTE 90,000 RPM limit
      so in relality 0.40 kg/s
      x 2.8 = 1.12 kg or 1.0 bar = 15.9 psi

      This is the largest Rotrex charger on the charts provided
      after doing the math on all that data provided i still don't know what
      the thermal dynamics are? how hot is the charged air?

      Assuming the use of a 70mm unit.Most Rotrex chargers leave Rotrex with either a 90mm or 100mm pulley

      ok so a stock PG 144mm crank pully at 6500 rpm

      90mm = 1.6:1 ratio = 10400 x 7.5 = 78000 charger impeller RPM
      100mm= 1.4:1 ratio = 9100 x 7.5 = 68250 charger impeller RPM

      on the 3.0l-6.0l charger flow chart

      90mm 78000 = 2.4 at 0.30 = .72kg/s = 10 psi
      100mm 68250 =2.0 at 0.25= 5.0kg/s = 7psi

      500HP 1990 Cowrado
      Have a great Orwellian Day
      https://www.youtube.com/user/RepomanPro

    23. 04-11-2009 12:56 PM #58
      any one know how to tune digi1? i have a motes chip burner but i cant get the information on the chip in to a form i can read? where could i find the softwar?

    24. 05-06-2009 10:06 AM #59
      Quote, originally posted by z-raddo g60 »
      The CarQuest worker stated the bypass oil filter that could be used is a super common filter. It matche(s) the threads perfectly (to the OEM Bosch filter). The CarQuest part number is 85040.

      A more common brand of oil filter is the Fram 3387A. I went with the Tough Guard for the bypass and no drain back feature, TG3387A.

      link for photo


    25. 05-11-2009 11:52 PM #60
      This was fantastic...great job. Could you help me out with a small detail? I need to figure out where the the following wires hook up to..."solid Red goes to #87 on the fuel pump relay - Red/Green strip- goes to #50 recieves +12v during starting - ISV or Idle Stabilizer Valve- Solid White/ Black with Yellow stripe recives power from #15 which is switched 12V +. - Yellow with Blue stripe, goes to #85 on fuel pump relay." Could you send me a picture and details of how you hooked everything up. Thanks bro. I'm almost done and then I'll post all the pics.,
      Regards,
      Michael

    26. 09-14-2009 02:09 PM #61
      One thing to always check if you are stalling/not starting is the following:
      - Remove the Hall connection at the distributor
      - connect a voltmeter to the outer pins (set voltmeter to read approx 10.5 volts
      - turn the ignition switch to run and measure the volts - must be greater than 10 volts
      - cycle the ignition switch while watching the meter to ensure it always reads greater than 10 volts,

      If it is all over the map - ie 10.5 volts one instance and then 8 volts the next, change your ECU relay - position 3 and either #30 or #32 relay. (I have also read that a #109 works, but I haven't confirmed this)

      Ask me how I know this - just spent 2 days trying to track down an intermittent stall on my Son's corrado.

      Also, if your car uses a #30 ECU relay, it is fine to use a #32. There is an extra terminal on the #30, but it is not required. It goes to the ECU, but I have confirmed it isn't required. In fact, most wiring diagrams show this teminal on the ECU is not connected.


    27. 12-10-2009 12:12 AM #62
      I was wondering, do you know if a corrado ECU (VW# 037 906 022 B) will work in a passat syncro G60 swap into a MK1? My original passat syncro G60 ECU (VW# 037 906 022 DQ) is fried. Any help would be great. I can be emailed at minicoretti@hotmail.com
      Thanks.

    28. 03-07-2010 02:01 PM #63
      the B works in just about anything not-automatic within the 037 906 022 class. the newer models had fixes to the original B board due to change in supplier parts. However automagic cars should stay in the same ALPHA version.

      B != automagic
      CR/CQ = could work on automatic if you had cr/cq
      DQ = best stick to DQ if you have automatic

      the passat also did its ground through the ecu mount point - the corrado does not.


    29. Member
      Join Date
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      Weatherford, tx
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      mk3 golf 2.0
      04-21-2010 06:28 PM #64
      Any tips for swapping a g60 into my mk3 golf?

    30. Junior Member bullitt46's Avatar
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      '90 G-60
      08-04-2010 03:02 PM #65
      this question pertains to the G-60 FAQ read this first thread, about buying an air fuel gauge. is the o2 sensor mentioned with the air fuel gauge, the o2 sensor in the catalytic converter?
      Last edited by bullitt46; 08-04-2010 at 03:06 PM.

    31. Member need4speed2345's Avatar
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      1991 Lysholm Corrado
      03-17-2011 01:19 PM #66
      Ford 30lb injectors (high) #s: E9SE, F1SE, F1SE-E1A (3.8SC and SuperCoupes)
      Last edited by need4speed2345; 03-17-2011 at 01:51 PM.
      1991 Stage IV Lysholm Corrado W/Water Meth and Nitrous
      2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee SRT8 Canned tune, Cold Air
      2009 Yamaha Raven R6 Bone Stock

    32. 06-05-2011 01:47 PM #67
      heres a tricky one...i read along time ago that a g60 isv will release boost at high psi rateing over 10 psi?????anyone if this is truth.cant remmember where i read it but a long time ago everyone was putting check valves to stop it from bleeding out boost. any info would be great .]

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