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    Thread: MkIII audio pros help please.

    1. Member 02GTIFREESKIER's Avatar
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      07-23-2014 10:23 AM #1
      So Ive been working on a co-workers mkIII just doing random stuff Tune up, timing belt, hitch install, etc. Everythings been great other than the stereo. It has been the bane of my existence. After getting through the immobilizer issues, now I'm not able to get the speakers in the the rear door to make any decent noise. Even cranked up they kind of just hum along at a real low level. Is this because the aftermarkets are twice the resistance of the factory speakers? If so, is there a solution? The car originally had the "premium anti theft audio" deck in it, and it has the four wire harness for the rear speakers. Now it has a Sony HU, and pioneer premier speakers running the only two wires that would make any sound.

      Thanks
      -Dave
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    2. Member 02GTIFREESKIER's Avatar
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      07-23-2014 02:49 PM #2
      TTT. Whos got the fix for this?
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    3. Member project95mk3's Avatar
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      put put BANG!!!
      07-23-2014 04:18 PM #3
      have you checked the wires that run thru the door frame to the door something could be lose or broken

    4. Member 02GTIFREESKIER's Avatar
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      07-24-2014 10:20 AM #4
      No its getting signal, its just very weak. The original speakers worked fine with the four wire harness but now that there is only two wires running each speaker they are very quiet. I know people have ran into this before with the "Premium" sound system. I just cant recall the fix.
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    5. Member 02GTIFREESKIER's Avatar
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      08-04-2014 06:46 PM #5
      ttt. Still trying to figure this out.
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      08-04-2014 07:48 PM #6
      Quote Originally Posted by 02GTIFREESKIER View Post
      The original speakers worked fine with the four wire harness but now that there is only two wires running each speaker they are very quiet. I know people have ran into this before with the "Premium" sound system.
      I'm not really sure I understand this statement. All speakers have two connections, positive and negative, and there was not much to the "Premium" sound system (at least on my '97 VR). Has tweeters in the dash and mids in the door panels for front and tweeters and mids in the back door panels (3 doors anyway). Nothing special, hell component speakers usually have crossovers which the factory setup never had. They just ran the wires in series to the mids and tweeters. Could be wrong, but it sounds like a short in the rear speaker wires or possibly the rear speakers are toast. Not fun, but it if were me I'd pull the speakers and headunit and run wires directly to both to rule things out and go from there. GL.

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      08-06-2014 09:53 AM #7
      i agree.. it has to be a connection or ground issue...

    8. Member 02GTIFREESKIER's Avatar
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      08-12-2014 02:44 PM #8
      Quote Originally Posted by critar View Post
      I'm not really sure I understand this statement. All speakers have two connections, positive and negative, and there was not much to the "Premium" sound system (at least on my '97 VR). Has tweeters in the dash and mids in the door panels for front and tweeters and mids in the back door panels (3 doors anyway). Nothing special, hell component speakers usually have crossovers which the factory setup never had. They just ran the wires in series to the mids and tweeters. Could be wrong, but it sounds like a short in the rear speaker wires or possibly the rear speakers are toast. Not fun, but it if were me I'd pull the speakers and headunit and run wires directly to both to rule things out and go from there. GL.
      Hmm Ill put a meter on it and see if anything is dumping to ground but I'm doubtful. This "premium" audio system has two harnesses with two wires in each harness for a total of four wires for one speaker. Screwy I know, but that's how it is. It also has tweeters in the rear door, and tweeters in the dash. And when you remove the tweeters None of the speakers work. They seem to somehow be wired in series with the other speakers. I know it doesnt make much sense and ive never seen anything like it before. I was hoping someone else had dealt with this issue.
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      08-12-2014 04:00 PM #9
      Sounds right. Connectors should look like the first pic and second pic is from Dan Reed's site showing how speakers are typically wired in parallel. If you've got something different going on, post a pic of the connectors.




    10. Member RoseBud68's Avatar
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      08-12-2014 04:03 PM #10
      Quote Originally Posted by 02GTIFREESKIER View Post
      Hmm Ill put a meter on it and see if anything is dumping to ground but I'm doubtful. This "premium" audio system has two harnesses with two wires in each harness for a total of four wires for one speaker. Screwy I know, but that's how it is. It also has tweeters in the rear door, and tweeters in the dash. And when you remove the tweeters None of the speakers work. They seem to somehow be wired in series with the other speakers. I know it doesnt make much sense and ive never seen anything like it before. I was hoping someone else had dealt with this issue.
      When I purchases a head unit from Crutchfield they recommended floating ground adapter. Had no use for it for my install but your sound like it those.

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    11. Member mfredrick's Avatar
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      08-15-2014 01:46 AM #11
      could just be a difference in resistance between stock speakers and aftermarket. Bose system has an amp and the speakers are somthing like 2 ohm and most aftermarket are 4.
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    12. 07-23-2016 11:16 AM #12
      Quote Originally Posted by 02GTIFREESKIER View Post
      Hmm Ill put a meter on it and see if anything is dumping to ground but I'm doubtful. This "premium" audio system has two harnesses with two wires in each harness for a total of four wires for one speaker. Screwy I know, but that's how it is. It also has tweeters in the rear door, and tweeters in the dash. And when you remove the tweeters None of the speakers work. They seem to somehow be wired in series with the other speakers. I know it doesnt make much sense and ive never seen anything like it before. I was hoping someone else had dealt with this issue.
      I wonder if my problem could be related to this...

      Swapped in an Alpine H/U and Alpine front door 6.5's from my "parts car", left OE rear deck speakers (6.5's and tweeters). Planned to do rear deck swap later. Still sounded good.

      Pulled OE rear speakers and tweeters, H/U cut back to just DS front door 6.5 and dash tweeter.

      Figured H/U went in to some sort of "protect" mode (my wife's Saturn Outlook did that when I forgot to reconnect A-pillar tweeters after a speaker upgrade).

      Repaired a bunch of broken wires in both front door harnesses.

      Installed crossovers, mid-bass 6.5's and tweeters (re-used OE tweeters).

      Still nuttin' but the DS door.

      Could the whole body harness be bad?

      Could it be as simple as a bad ground?

      Or could it be the weird way the rears are wired in series as was posted?

      Also considering that it could be a H/U issue, but not likely.

      Am confident my splices are good.

      Have not checked where the harness runs thru the rear doors, does anyone know if the rear deck speaker wires run thru there too?

      Sent via Turbocharged Droid

    13. Yesterday 08:35 PM #13
      Quote Originally Posted by Charles_Colfax View Post

      Repaired a bunch of broken wires in both front door harnesses.



      Could the whole body harness be bad?

      Could it be as simple as a bad ground?

      Or could it be the weird way the rears are wired in series as was posted?

      Have not checked where the harness runs thru the rear doors, does anyone know if the rear deck speaker wires run thru there too?

      Sent via Turbocharged Droid
      Any wiring going through any door is suspect, and the I've noticed that the stock blade connectors sometimes don't like to fit snugly on aftermarket speakers.
      The speakers above are wired in parallel, but I've always wanted to replace the stock wiring and connector setup at the speakers with something more reliable because if I smack the dash I can get the dash speakers to fade in and out sometimes.
      =P

    14. Yesterday 09:01 PM #14
      K.

      Looks like I am checking the rear door connectors tomorrow.

      I suxors at reading German wiring diagrams, so I assume the rear speaker wires run thru them.

      Once I address any issues there I'll move on.

      I lose track of the rear deck wires as they disappear back down under the rear seat so I am not sure where the harness splits in to two separate sets of wires for the mid bass 6.5's and the tweeters.
      Both have the same color coding.
      I treated Brown as Negative in all applications.
      I also looked at my crossovers; since it had WF in and TW in, I may try running the factory tweeter wires to the TW in and just make jumpers to go from the XVR to the TW like I did for the WF

      Sent via Turbocharged Droid

    15. Yesterday 11:09 PM #15
      Quote Originally Posted by Charles_Colfax View Post
      K.

      Looks like I am checking the rear door connectors tomorrow.

      I suxors at reading German wiring diagrams, so I assume the rear speaker wires run thru them.

      Once I address any issues there I'll move on.

      I lose track of the rear deck wires as they disappear back down under the rear seat so I am not sure where the harness splits in to two separate sets of wires for the mid bass 6.5's and the tweeters.
      Both have the same color coding.
      I treated Brown as Negative in all applications.
      I also looked at my crossovers; since it had WF in and TW in, I may try running the factory tweeter wires to the TW in and just make jumpers to go from the XVR to the TW like I did for the WF

      Sent via Turbocharged Droid
      It's easy enough to check the headunit outputs, but I think that you will find your issues are going to be a problem with stock wiring or connection condition, probably in the door accordion or the barrel connectors for any door speakers, or any connectors along the way or at the components, or something is not hooked up properly. If you look at any of the channels in the diagram, the stock "woofer" and "tweeter" wires are really the same original circuit and carry the same exact original signal. Any filtering in that setup takes place on-board of the original drivers with resistors that are not shown. Not sure what x-overs you are using or how you are jumpering things, but you just need to worry about setting up the x-overs to be bi-wired, since it sounds like it is a bi-ampable passive model. What do you have, one of those for each of the four main channels?
      Last edited by 'dubber; Yesterday at 11:12 PM.
      =P

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