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    Thread: Finishing the Galaxie - A Way Over Due Production

    1. Member
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      12-15-2014 08:38 AM #26
      This is an awesome thread. Quality build too.

      I have almost the same timeline and story you do. I fell in lust with a 60s American car, bought it in 1999 while in High school (with help from parents of course), went to Auto body school in 2002 and worked on it there much to the dismay of my somewhat burned out teacher. I had a great time in school but never had much luck in the business after graduating. I don't do bodywork professionally anymore but still do my own stuff on occasion.

      I still have the car too from back then. And over the last couple of years have been working hard to correct past mistakes on it, including an axle ring gear swap to a higher ratio just last week.

      Keep the posts coming!

    2. Member AlBeezy36's Avatar
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      12-15-2014 10:38 AM #27
      Quote Originally Posted by ValveCoverGasket View Post
      awesome project! and a rad backstory too
      Right on man, glad you like it!

      Quote Originally Posted by J2G View Post
      Damn.

      This thread just jumped up one big, steely notch. Very, very cool that you were able to do that. I'm particularly impressed by how you built the sand mold.
      Thank you! The project took a total of about 1.5 yrs working on it somewhat leisurely in my free time. The mold is made out of machinable foam and plastic. I basically made a rough overall shape of what I needed, but larger to deal with contraction after casting and machining mistakes. I then ran it threw a band saw and cut it down the length. The gates/runners are foam, then I just used bondo to smooth it all out and some paint to finish it off. I made two pours, one was junk, the other ended up being the completed project.

      Quote Originally Posted by Green Panzer View Post
      A vast, fast '60s Ford. I love every inch of these. Great project, and the sense of accomplishment that comes from doing jobs like these is unparallelled.
      Cannot wait to finish

      Quote Originally Posted by JRH2009 View Post
      This is an awesome thread. Quality build too.

      I have almost the same timeline and story you do. I fell in lust with a 60s American car, bought it in 1999 while in High school (with help from parents of course), went to Auto body school in 2002 and worked on it there much to the dismay of my somewhat burned out teacher. I had a great time in school but never had much luck in the business after graduating. I don't do bodywork professionally anymore but still do my own stuff on occasion.

      I still have the car too from back then. And over the last couple of years have been working hard to correct past mistakes on it, including an axle ring gear swap to a higher ratio just last week.

      Keep the posts coming!
      That is really cool man, your timeline is incredibly similar. I was hellbent on painting custom cars right out of high school, but after meeting a couple successful painters and shaking their chemical cracked hands, I started to lean back towards hitting the books again. I'm happy that is a hobby and not a full-time job. It's hard work that's for sure!

      Thanks for watching everyone!
      - Alex

    3. Member VAG-Approved's Avatar
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      12-15-2014 11:27 AM #28
      AMAZING! The Machine Shop stuff made my day. Keep up the good work and keep posting

    4. Member AlBeezy36's Avatar
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      12-15-2014 12:05 PM #29
      Quote Originally Posted by EmoGti2.0 View Post
      AMAZING! The Machine Shop stuff made my day. Keep up the good work and keep posting
      That makes me happy man. I wasn't sure if it would come off more humblebrag than just sharing neat stuff. I'm glad people are enjoying it. For those interested, the machine work was done entirely on a 3-axis Bridgeport mill and an old lathe, cannot remember the brand. The steel caps were milled on a 5-axis CNC mill. I made dimensioned 3 view drawing in SolidWorks, printed them out, and machined one feature at a time, checking as I went with vernier calipers and micrometers. It was pretty cool playing machinist for those few months Props to those that do it for a living.
      - Alex

    5. 12-15-2014 03:58 PM #30
      Stock tire size was what 7.50x14? 255/65-16 is a lot of tire. It's a good 3 inches (~11%) taller. I imagine that, and the 3.55s, should make for some easy highway driving.

    6. Member AlBeezy36's Avatar
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      12-15-2014 05:00 PM #31
      Quote Originally Posted by The Kilted Yaksman View Post
      Stock tire size was what 7.50x14? 255/65-16 is a lot of tire. It's a good 3 inches (~11%) taller. I imagine that, and the 3.55s, should make for some easy highway driving.
      I think you're right about the 7.50 x 14. The ford muscle forums say 7.5 for 6 cyl and 8.0 for the 8 cyl cars. I'm not sure I even realized you could get a gal with less than a 289. Probably a total dog

      I calculated I'd end up with ~2700 at 65mph with my 3.55 and 29" tire combo. Not too bad for a 3 speed.
      - Alex

    7. Member AlBeezy36's Avatar
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      03-08-2015 04:09 PM #32
      Wow, 3 months have passed Sorry for no updates. Let's see if I can get this going again. Made some updates to the garage, which is nice.



      I had some outlets (one of which is 240V) added on the walls and on the ceiling. The lighting is 8 fixtures with 2 T8 6500k bulbs in them each. It is pretty awesome. I even added some retractable extension cords and airline, which is also nice! Ignore the janky garage door opener wiring done by the previous owners. I'll get on that.

      Car Update

      64 Galaxies got a very strange lower control arm front shaft setup. It's an offset shaft assembly that is made up of the offset shaft itself and a funky hollow bolt thing.



      The OE assembly is on the right. You can see the hollow bolt is both threaded inside and out. They even have passages for grease. There is a zerk fitting which is just out of view on the forward end. It is entirely elaborate and they have the tendency to wear. As do the shafts. Typical wear (This is the portion which threads into the hollow bolt):



      On top of this, the offset makes it possible for your alignment to shift while driving during heavy acceleration and braking, which can make things interesting. To make matters worse, you are threading into the cross member and over the shafts at the same time so things can get jacked in a hurry during install. The hollow bolts require shimming which appear as large washers of different thicknesses to make everything ling up. It's a total headache. Long story short, the design sucks. The 427 cars did not get them. The 390/352/289 cars did, but there were fixes out there. Like this:



      It's called a stabilizer bar and it attaches to the aft side of both offset shafts and keeps the shafts from rotating. These are band-aids. The holes which go over the shafts are large and bear on the threads. These bars also suck, but they do work. Kind of. They can interfere with the front sway bar and during heavy braking/accel you can hear things clunking around. Time for an update.

      Look back at the side by side comparo shot. On the left it shows the re-pop offset bushing kit which is a copy of what the 427 cars got. Here is where the assembly installs:



      If you look closely, there are two bearing surfaces, one at the front and one at the back of the front crossmember. Here is what the OE setup looks like installed:



      So those offset bushings that come with the re-pop kit I bought pop into those bearing surfaces and the large 5/8 bolt slides through the whole setup providing a straight arm for the control arm to rotate about. The large offset bushing goes on the back side and even has a tang to keep it from rotating. The smaller bushing pops in the front. Here it is all done:



      Anywho, the car is back on all 4 wheels which is cool. I'll now be re-wiring the engine compartment. Is anyone super familiar with connectors? I cut one of the OE firewall connectors down the middle to see if I could put new wiring through them and reuse them. I don't think it's going to work. I know re-pops are out there for the whole bundle, but I'd like to go custom with my routing this time. Anyone know if there are just connectors like this available? Here is the connector cut down the middle that I'm trying to replace. I'll get creative if I can't find a replacement.



      - Alex

    8. Member welderdood's Avatar
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      03-08-2015 05:06 PM #33
      Nice garage set up!

    9. Member AlBeezy36's Avatar
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      03-09-2015 10:24 AM #34
      Quote Originally Posted by welderdood View Post
      Nice garage set up!
      Thanks dood! Bump for Monday crowd
      - Alex

    10. Member 4.OMG's Avatar
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      03-09-2015 10:52 AM #35
      Quote Originally Posted by AlBeezy36 View Post
      Anywho, the car is back on all 4 wheels which is cool. I'll now be re-wiring the engine compartment. Is anyone super familiar with connectors? I cut one of the OE firewall connectors down the middle to see if I could put new wiring through them and reuse them. I don't think it's going to work. I know re-pops are out there for the whole bundle, but I'd like to go custom with my routing this time. Anyone know if there are just connectors like this available? Here is the connector cut down the middle that I'm trying to replace. I'll get creative if I can't find a replacement.



      Basically any connector Ford used from the late '70s onward (that's my estimate, not hard fact) is available under the Motorcraft label (and you can usually find them on Amazon or ebay for a lot cheaper than the dealerships).

      Unless you really want your connectors to be period-correct, all you need to do is get the corresponding male and female connectors for a given number of pins in the style you want. A lot of them come pre-pinned with ~12" of wire, so you can crimp or solder directly to your existing harness.

      I have a color .pdf with all the part numbers, organized by the number of pins, with pictures, but it's at home on my personal laptop. If you PM me your email address, I can send it to you.

      Edit: No need for that-I found it: http://www.fordservicecontent.com/pu...torcatalog.pdf

    11. 03-09-2015 11:03 AM #36
      Awesome car.
      Your pinion yoke design is cool, don't 1350 yokes without U bolts have a groove for a snap ring? Your bolted cover looks to leave maybe a 1/4" of room for the cap to start walking out.

    12. Member AlBeezy36's Avatar
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      03-09-2015 11:09 AM #37
      Quote Originally Posted by 4.OMG View Post
      Unless you really want your connectors to be period-correct, all you need to do is get the corresponding male and female connectors for a given number of pins in the style you want. A lot of them come pre-pinned with ~12" of wire, so you can crimp or solder directly to your existing harness.
      Thanks for that PDF, 4.0MG. I'll tuck a copy of that away. The opposite connector is a part of the fuse box which mounts right up to the aft side of the firewall, so I'm kind of afraid it can't be altered. I'll take it a part in the next couple days and take a closer look.
      - Alex

    13. Member AlBeezy36's Avatar
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      03-09-2015 11:16 AM #38
      Quote Originally Posted by Gitcha Sum View Post
      Awesome car.
      Your pinion yoke design is cool, don't 1350 yokes without U bolts have a groove for a snap ring? Your bolted cover looks to leave maybe a 1/4" of room for the cap to start walking out.
      Thanks man. I actually don't know about the snap rings. The only other place I've seen a yoke similar to what I built was in semi-truck applications, but those are much larger than 1350. I can't remember what type of gap I designed in between the yoke cap and the u-joint bearing but I don't think it was 1/4", at least I hope it wasn't It was like 9 years ago though, so who knows. Currently on the car I've got a Strange brand 1350 yoke with traditional u-bolts.
      - Alex

    14. Member AlBeezy36's Avatar
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      05-17-2015 07:06 PM #39
      OK, slow progress under the hood. I painted the rest of my MSD stuff to match my engine block paint. The jury is still out on it. I can tell you that it photographs better outside of direct light

      Anyways, I can always go back and re-spray something. The master cylinder will get painted black. I'm thinking of doing the valve covers and the air cleaner lids a wrinkle black.



      Here is the control module after I painted the raised fins black:



      With the ignition electrics ready to go in, I needed to layout a plan for the rest of the systems. I decided to construct relayed harnesses for headlights, fan, and horn. I grouped a few components including the starter relay, the voltage reg, a 6 point junction box, and a 4 relay bank. I decided on the passenger side fenderwell and spotted in the components with temp screws. You can also see the custom trans cooler line setup I put together with butterflied clamps and standoffs.



      Starting to run wires. The plan is the redo every wire under the hood. The OE stuff is pretty brittle at this point. Everything will be sheathed in black tubing by the end.



      The starter relay, the alternator, and the voltage reg are wire. Now I just need to get some relays and start to build those harnesses. I'm going with an H4 conversion on the outer headlights. I'm thinking of going with a thunderbolt look on the inner headlights to go with the hood.



      The junction box has a lid. I think I'll find some wingnuts to close it off.



      - Alex

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      05-17-2015 07:25 PM #40
      Wow Man, that thing is coming together nicely!

    16. Member AlBeezy36's Avatar
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      05-19-2015 03:07 PM #41
      Quote Originally Posted by welderdood View Post
      Wow Man, that thing is coming together nicely!
      Thanks Dood.

      OK electrical folks - I realized I goofed. I need fuses between my junction box and my relay box. Can I run fusible links as power wires from my junction box to my relay box? Or, am I stuck with spotting in a fuse panel with a fuse for each relay?
      - Alex

    17. Senior Member FlashRedGLS1.8T's Avatar
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      05-19-2015 03:30 PM #42

    18. Member quadcammer32's Avatar
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      05-20-2015 09:08 AM #43
      looks good! My old man had a 427/4 speed 64 growing up. Very fun car for sure.

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      05-20-2015 09:15 AM #44
      This is an awesome build. The attention to detail is great, and it forces you to learn a ton doing something like this yourself.

    20. Member Crispyfritter's Avatar
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      05-20-2015 09:42 AM #45
      Quote Originally Posted by AlBeezy36 View Post
      Thanks Dood.

      OK electrical folks - I realized I goofed. I need fuses between my junction box and my relay box. Can I run fusible links as power wires from my junction box to my relay box? Or, am I stuck with spotting in a fuse panel with a fuse for each relay?
      The fusible links would provide the same protection as a standard fuse panel, correct? I guess it just depends on what you want it to look like.

      Chris

      P.S. This is a fantastic build, and I love what you're doing. Thanks for keeping it updated.

      Chris
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    21. Moderator 03_uni-B's Avatar
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      05-20-2015 09:49 AM #46
      Enjoyed the read, keep up the good work. I am hoping to start a long term project soon myself

    22. Member AlBeezy36's Avatar
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      05-20-2015 10:27 AM #47
      Hey, thanks everyone! I've been pretty bad at updating the thread, but then again I've been also bad at consistently working on the car. I'll try to keep it up.

      Quote Originally Posted by 200HP4dr View Post
      The fusible links would provide the same protection as a standard fuse panel, correct? I guess it just depends on what you want it to look like.
      Chris, that's basically the question I'm asking. Is it the same thing? The junction box is 3 power posts and 3 ground posts. I'd like to run fusible links directly from the power posts in the box to the power terminals on the relay. Just not sure if this is an OK (safe) setup or not. I can spot in a mini fuse panel if needed, but figure it would look kind of crappy at this point.

      Thanks again for the kind words!

      - Alex

    23. Member Crispyfritter's Avatar
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      05-20-2015 11:39 AM #48
      Quote Originally Posted by AlBeezy36 View Post
      Hey, thanks everyone! I've been pretty bad at updating the thread, but then again I've been also bad at consistently working on the car. I'll try to keep it up.



      Chris, that's basically the question I'm asking. Is it the same thing? The junction box is 3 power posts and 3 ground posts. I'd like to run fusible links directly from the power posts in the box to the power terminals on the relay. Just not sure if this is an OK (safe) setup or not. I can spot in a mini fuse panel if needed, but figure it would look kind of crappy at this point.

      Thanks again for the kind words!

      I apologize for any assumptions here, but if the fusible links have the same load rating, I don't see how this wouldn't be safe. As long as they're accessible, you should be fine.

      Chris
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    24. Geriatric Member ValveCoverGasket's Avatar
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      05-20-2015 12:06 PM #49
      its coming together really well!

      Quote Originally Posted by 200HP4dr View Post
      I apologize for any assumptions here, but if the fusible links have the same load rating, I don't see how this wouldn't be safe. As long as they're accessible, you should be fine.
      Quote Originally Posted by AlBeezy36 View Post
      Chris, that's basically the question I'm asking. Is it the same thing? The junction box is 3 power posts and 3 ground posts. I'd like to run fusible links directly from the power posts in the box to the power terminals on the relay. Just not sure if this is an OK (safe) setup or not. I can spot in a mini fuse panel if needed, but figure it would look kind of crappy at this point.
      i may be misunderstanding what youre shooting for here, but youre thinking of running fuisible link wire the entire run between the junction and the relay box?
      i dont think thats a good idea.
      but if youve got them spliced in for a short length (inch or so) like a fusebox, so you can control where it fails/easy to inspect, i dont think thatd be a bad idea.
      but visually thatd end up looking like a fusebox anyway, so may kind of defeat the purpose.



      for the wiring wrap, lately ive been digging the black wiring tape that isnt sticky, but sticks only to itself.
      looks a lot cleaner/more professional than the ribbed conduit, and doesnt leave a sticky mess when you need to service something or add more wires. plus it grabs the wires and shrinks things down a lot tighter than conduit.
      spiral cut loom is nice also and easier to apply, but doesnt look as clean if you want all the wires hidden completely.

      for example
      http://www.britishwiring.com/Harness...ack-p/c453.htm


      (you can also buy it on amazon)


      /thread jack
      Last edited by ValveCoverGasket; 05-20-2015 at 12:12 PM.

    25. Senior Member dubdaze68's Avatar
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      05-20-2015 12:08 PM #50
      My buddies use hockey grip tape. But that can get sticky.
      DCIVW
      CE.

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