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    Thread: Finishing the Galaxie - A Way Over Due Production

    1. Member 16volt's Avatar
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      03-01-2017 01:12 PM #101
      A note on 'fuel smell' on the dipstick. If you are not getting the car hot enough I think with a carbed car you will always have a bit of unburnt fuel smell with the oil.

    2. Member barry2952's Avatar
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      03-01-2017 01:20 PM #102
      Quote Originally Posted by Crispyfritter View Post
      I'd love this info.









    3. Member AlBeezy36's Avatar
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      03-01-2017 02:01 PM #103
      Quote Originally Posted by barry2952 View Post
      A healthy engine runs at 19-20hg. It could be that your timing is too far retarded. I wouldn't use the timing marks on the vibration damper as they can change over time. The very best way to tune an engine is with a vacuum gauge. You quite simply try to attain the lowest rpm with the highest vacuum. This is done through the idle jets, idle adjustment screw and rotating the distributor for highest vacuum. I can post Pony's instructions if you's like. I'll never use a timing light again.

      You can be experiencing vacuum loss at a number of places, but most come where the intake meets the block and where the carb meets the intake. Spray carb cleaner around the seals and see if there's an rpm change. Also, many cars use a choke tube that passes through the intake. If it's totted you'll have a vacuum leak that's hard to find, but look there as it's common. If you have carbon in your choke housing you have a breach.
      Barry, thanks for all the knowledge. Do you think this applies to an engine with a 'cam' in it as well? I don't have the specs off hand, but it's more than tame, less than wild.

      I have some carb cleaner sitting around so I'll give the leak test a try before throwing my hands up. I would not be surprised if there is a leak somewhere between carb and mani. I also have some doubts as to how well the engine is currently tuned. The gentlemen from CPP has recommended a $600 vacuum booster stating that 12.5 is 'definitely too low'.

      Quote Originally Posted by Crispyfritter View Post
      I'd love this info.
      Same here

      EDIT: Thanks for above post, Barry. Lunchtime reading is now locked and loaded.
      Last edited by AlBeezy36; 03-01-2017 at 02:03 PM.
      - Alex

    4. Member barry2952's Avatar
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      03-01-2017 02:08 PM #104
      Quote Originally Posted by AlBeezy36 View Post
      The gentlemen from CPP has recommended a $600 vacuum booster stating that 12.5 is 'definitely too low'.
      Some people will try and sell you your own socks. No one should need a vacuum booster, an ICE is a huge vacuum machine.

      Cap off any vacuum lines going out of the engine and see what vacuum you get, also, just lop an inch off each vacuum line for a better seal.

      There could be leaks in vacuum controls as well as leaks in the vacuum advance and brake booster. A simple hose pinch test is a quick way of finding leaks.

      Also, there are idiots in the auto repair world that don't know that vacuum and fuel/water lines are different. Vacuum lines are made to not collapse and water and fuel lined are made to not explode.

      Whether it has a cam or not shouldn't matter. That affects valve timing. We're talking about ignition timing.
      Last edited by barry2952; 03-01-2017 at 02:11 PM.

    5. Member Crispyfritter's Avatar
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      03-01-2017 02:08 PM #105
      Quote Originally Posted by AlBeezy36 View Post
      Barry, thanks for all the knowledge. Do you think this applies to an engine with a 'cam' in it as well? I don't have the specs off hand, but it's more than tame, less than wild.
      Sounds like you've got a 3/4 race cam.

      Chris
      | 2003 Dodge Ram | 2002 BMW 530i con mañuel | 1999 Ford F-250 | 1974 SuperBeetle | 1979 Camaro | 1975 Scout |
      The poster formerly known as 200HP4dr

    6. Member AlBeezy36's Avatar
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      03-01-2017 02:19 PM #106
      Quote Originally Posted by barry2952 View Post

      Whether it has a cam or not shouldn't matter. That affects valve timing. We're talking about ignition timing.
      I would think that when you start getting into an valve open/close overlap scenario (more than OEM) that it does in fact affect vacuum. Maybe it's worth drumming up the cam card and calling Comp Cams to see what they think.

      Quote Originally Posted by Crispyfritter View Post
      Sounds like you've got a 3/4 race cam.

      Chris
      Don't make me put my Ford Racing front license plate back on
      - Alex

    7. Senior Member Air and water do mix's Avatar
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      03-01-2017 02:49 PM #107
      Quote Originally Posted by Crispyfritter View Post
      Sounds like you've got a 3/4 race cam.

      Chris
      That's my favorite cam!

      Quote Originally Posted by AlBeezy36 View Post
      I would think that when you start getting into an valve open/close overlap scenario (more than OEM) that it does in fact affect vacuum. Maybe it's worth drumming up the cam card and calling Comp Cams to see what they think.
      Indeed. A very large cam will have a ton of overlap reducing the vacuum signal greatly. It's one of the main reasons why hot engines have a high idle. (The other is reduced airspeed.)

      A mild/moderate cam should still provide a fairly healthy amount of vacuum, though. If you can find out exactly what it is then you're much better off solving this issue and perhaps more down the line.

      Does it have other modifications to the valvetrain? If so, do you know what you have there? It might help ascertain what the builder was thinking... Assuming he was thinking, of course!
      Quote Originally Posted by Boyz in da Park
      Proletariat, Bourgeoise - Everybody smellin' my potpourri...

    8. Member AlBeezy36's Avatar
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      03-01-2017 03:41 PM #108
      Quote Originally Posted by Air and water do mix View Post
      That's my favorite cam!

      Does it have other modifications to the valvetrain? If so, do you know what you have there? It might help ascertain what the builder was thinking... Assuming he was thinking, of course!
      The builder was ME I was thinking, man I sure love body work, but I don't have a clue about mechanical (19 y.o. voice)...

      460 w/Kaase heads
      Comp Cam (will drum up specs)
      Performer RPM intake (mild)
      Demond 750 Carb

      Dizzy is an MSD mechanical unit, so no vac adv to leak or fail there.

      There is some fuel seepage around the carb. I will get check valve for fuel line and new carb to mani gasket and retry.

      I'll take a baseline with the new gasket, then dial in per Barry's very helpful guide above. I'll report back what I find.

      - Alex

    9. Member barry2952's Avatar
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      03-01-2017 03:48 PM #109
      Quote Originally Posted by AlBeezy36 View Post
      The builder was ME I was thinking, man I sure love body work, but I don't have a clue about mechanical (19 y.o. voice)...

      460 w/Kaase heads
      Comp Cam (will drum up specs)
      Performer RPM intake (mild)
      Demond 750 Carb

      Dizzy is an MSD mechanical unit, so no vac adv to leak or fail there.

      There is some fuel seepage around the carb. I will get check valve for fuel line and new carb to mani gasket and retry.

      I'll take a baseline with the new gasket, then dial in per Barry's very helpful guide above. I'll report back what I find.



      Every car I've tuned in the last 10 years I've done this way. Like bad electrical connections they become cumulative like dealing with vacuum. It's best to touch every connection and examine every T.

      I like to re-mark the timing marks using a simple TDC tool and see if they change over time.

    10. Senior Member Air and water do mix's Avatar
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      03-01-2017 04:25 PM #110
      Quote Originally Posted by AlBeezy36 View Post
      The builder was ME I was thinking, man I sure love body work, but I don't have a clue about mechanical (19 y.o. voice)...
      19?? I don't even remember being 19! I mean, I had to have been 19 at one point, but...

      Quote Originally Posted by AlBeezy36 View Post
      Dizzy is an MSD mechanical unit, so no vac adv to leak or fail there.
      Hmmmmm... You'll want to talk to the experts on your engine about that one, but there's a line of thinking about street driven cars and pure RPM-based advance control for the street and that line of thinking says "no". It's fine for a race car, but in a street car you lose a lot of drivability since it can't account for load at a given RPM. Naturally your advance, vacuum signal, port velocity, rod ratio and stroke will have a lot to say about it, so that's why you'll need to talk to guys who really know your engine.
      Quote Originally Posted by Boyz in da Park
      Proletariat, Bourgeoise - Everybody smellin' my potpourri...

    11. Member AlBeezy36's Avatar
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      03-02-2017 10:11 AM #111
      I'll be ordering a full carb rebuilt kit today. After further review last night, the carb to spacer nor spacer to manifold gasket are leaking, but just about every other interface in the carb assy is. I took some pictures to show you guys, but photobucket was misbehaving last night. I'll try again tonight.
      - Alex

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      03-02-2017 10:56 AM #112
      Quote Originally Posted by AlBeezy36 View Post
      I'll be ordering a full carb rebuilt kit today.
      These guys make a nice one.

      http://fitechefi.com/


    13. Geriatric Member ValveCoverGasket's Avatar
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      03-02-2017 11:03 AM #113
      ^

      id throw my vote in for that...

    14. Member AlBeezy36's Avatar
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      03-02-2017 08:51 PM #114





      Quote Originally Posted by Sonderwunsch View Post
      These guys make a nice one.
      Is this more field testing for potential Bronco purchases? I checked out the manual. Too many steps backwards at this point and 1000 bucks for my application ayeee

      Quote Originally Posted by ValveCoverGasket View Post
      ^

      id throw my vote in for that...
      Enabler



      - Alex

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      03-02-2017 08:58 PM #115
      Quote Originally Posted by AlBeezy36 View Post
      Is this more field testing for potential Bronco purchases? I checked out the manual. Too many steps backwards at this point and 1000 bucks for my application ayeee
      Was it that obvious?

      I got a check valve and some fittings from Summit today so I'll put those on this weekend and let you know how it goes. It needs to sit for 4-5 days before the long cranking starts set in so it will be a little while.

    16. Member AlBeezy36's Avatar
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      03-02-2017 09:13 PM #116
      **** I skipped a bunch:

      I brought my SATA NR2000 out a 15 year retirement with a $150 rebuild kit. I used a 2 dollar nylon washer and guess I'll just have a spray gun that will last me for the rest of my life now. All good, because it's awesome. Even at 15 years old.




      Euro clear and shed kill rooms





      I even used that German rattle can epoxy primer which has the hardener in the bottom. Give it the legit 4 minutes shaking and it's pretty damn good. Ends up very hard as you'd expect with an epoxy. So far For a small part why not.



      Apparently no pics of painted part

      It turned out great despite the environment and my rustiness. Seriously, couldn't be more pleased.

      Reproduction front bumper. It'll work. I have the original still and local shop wants $850 to replate it.








      Check out that corrosion. Pretty sure it's dissimilar metals and grounding through the bumper bolts. I also noticed some drainage problems when I took a close look. I added a weep hole in each to try to keep it down in the future.



      Added actual ground to each this time. Just a small homemade wire and a pull rivet. Put in with dielectric grease all over.









      There's a painted part pic. Color is very slightly off. You can see 1/4 of the part with the bumper covering it.




      I trimmed the hood after painting it back in the day. It took me 15 years to touch it up.



      Sorry that's my best artistic over engine shot.

      - Alex

    17. Member AlBeezy36's Avatar
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      03-02-2017 09:23 PM #117
      Quote Originally Posted by Sonderwunsch View Post
      Was it that obvious?

      I got a check valve and some fittings from Summit today so I'll put those on this weekend and let you know how it goes. It needs to sit for 4-5 days before the long cranking starts set in so it will be a little while.
      I figure it's the pump if the check valve works. Can the bowls even drain back like that? I pulled my fuel line before yanking the carb last night and the line was dry with the bowls filled to a normal height.
      - Alex

    18. Member barry2952's Avatar
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      03-02-2017 09:27 PM #118
      Quote Originally Posted by AlBeezy36 View Post
      I figure it's the pump if the check valve works. Can the bowls even drain back like that? I pulled my fuel line before yanking the carb last night and the line was dry with the bowls filled to a normal height.
      The bowl can't siphon drain so the level,only drops to the level of the top of the needle valve seat.

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      03-02-2017 10:29 PM #119
      Quote Originally Posted by Air and water do mix View Post
      That's my favorite cam!



      Indeed. A very large cam will have a ton of overlap reducing the vacuum signal greatly. It's one of the main reasons why hot engines have a high idle. (The other is reduced airspeed.)

      A mild/moderate cam should still provide a fairly healthy amount of vacuum, though. If you can find out exactly what it is then you're much better off solving this issue and perhaps more down the line.

      Does it have other modifications to the valvetrain? If so, do you know what you have there? It might help ascertain what the builder was thinking... Assuming he was thinking, of course!

      Find the cam card and look it up, Comp will actually tell you expected vacuum levels with their different grinds. It's worth mentioning (I think) that 9 out of 10 people who swap a cam into their own engine over cam it. A camshaft doesn't necessarily "make" power so much as it controls where in the RPM band the power is made.

    20. Member AlBeezy36's Avatar
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      03-03-2017 10:33 AM #120
      Quote Originally Posted by NashGTI View Post
      Find the cam card and look it up


      I've done a small amount of reading which said that the duration at .050 is key - anything over 230 and expect significant vacuum losses. My ext is 236. Are they any cam experts in here who can interpret the card further?

      Any one want to make a wager on expected vacuum after carb has been rebuilt? I guess it's not the end of the world if I end up with a hydro boost or vacuum assist, but it's just more junk under the hood.
      - Alex

    21. Geriatric Member ValveCoverGasket's Avatar
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      03-03-2017 10:35 AM #121
      Quote Originally Posted by AlBeezy36 View Post
      Enabler
      i do what i can

      if you do ever end up going that route, let me know..

    22. Member 16volt's Avatar
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      03-03-2017 11:12 AM #122
      You should go buy a harbor freight media blasting cabinet.....just sayin.

      If I had a decent air compressor like you that would be my first purchase....just sayin.

    23. Member AlBeezy36's Avatar
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      03-03-2017 11:36 AM #123
      Quote Originally Posted by 16volt View Post
      You should go buy a harbor freight media blasting cabinet.....just sayin.

      If I had a decent air compressor like you that would be my first purchase....just sayin.
      You send me dimensions for a blast cabinet and I'll tell you whether you can store in my shed for free-usage fee. You must sweep sand upon removal
      - Alex

    24. Member AlBeezy36's Avatar
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      03-03-2017 11:59 AM #124
      Quote Originally Posted by NashGTI View Post
      Comp will actually tell you expected vacuum levels with their different grinds.
      I dropped a line to Comp Cams tech support. If you google XE274 vacuum I see a number of guys successfully running vacuum assisted power brakes, so maybe there is hope afterall

      Quote Originally Posted by ValveCoverGasket View Post
      i do what i can

      if you do ever end up going that route, let me know..
      I will for sure
      - Alex

    25. Senior Member Air and water do mix's Avatar
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      03-03-2017 01:05 PM #125
      Quote Originally Posted by NashGTI View Post
      Find the cam card and look it up, Comp will actually tell you expected vacuum levels with their different grinds. It's worth mentioning (I think) that 9 out of 10 people who swap a cam into their own engine over cam it. A camshaft doesn't necessarily "make" power so much as it controls where in the RPM band the power is made.
      All of this. If someone were choosing between two cams or two carbs for a street driven car my pat answer is to say "pick the smaller one".
      Quote Originally Posted by Boyz in da Park
      Proletariat, Bourgeoise - Everybody smellin' my potpourri...

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