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    VWVortex


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    Thread: Engine rebuild

    1. Junior Member vr684's Avatar
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      MKIV DBP R32, eip comp catback, pss9 coilover
      04-03-2015 08:13 PM #1
      Recently got the block back from the machine shop bored .5mm over and honed. Intigrated engeneering rods .5mm over lower compression pistons. New bearings rod and main new thrust washers. Polished the cranck shaft. During assembly it gets extremely hard to hand crank over. Once it goes it sticks when cylinder 4 and 5 get to bottom center. Disassembled everything and checked all components reassembled and once I installed cylinder 4 it was smooth but still minor stick once I installed the rod and piston for cylinder 5 it was extremely difficult to turn over. I'm at a loss any input from a knowledgable person would help. I checked the tolerances and they were all .076 for the main bearings.
      Vw love. (o\_!_/o)

    2. Member 24vGTiVR6's Avatar
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      24v VRT
      04-10-2015 05:09 PM #2
      just double checking here..... did you apply assembly lube to the bearing faces? Without a head installed my crank turned over REALLY easily. It should rotate very smooth with little effort.

      also, .076 is outside tolerance-

      crankshaft main bearing radial clearance:

      new parts = 0.02 - 0.06 mm (0.0008 - 0.0024 in.)
      wear limit = 0.10mm (0.0039 in.)

      connecting rod bearing radial clearance:

      new = 0.02 - 0.07mm (0.0008 - 0.0028 in.)
      wear limit = 0.10mm (0.0039 in.)
      Last edited by 24vGTiVR6; 04-10-2015 at 05:49 PM.

    3. n00b SMVV's Avatar
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      '08 R32
      05-23-2015 05:34 PM #3
      I'm a dedicated forum reader always searching for knowledge; I'm most definitely not a mechanic and desparately need some advice and direction. Long story short; I ran my engine so hot that eventually it completely shut down requiring a total rebuild. I have not had my car since September 2014 and finally picked it up on March 13th (Friday). I didn't even make it home before the check engine light came on; which I was told was most likely a minor emissions issue and nothing to concern myself with. I returned the car two weeks later and still do not have the car back in operating condition. Twelve fault codes later; my machinist and mechanic have washed their hands of any additional responsibility (warranties with both) and I have been told the camshaft adjusters need to be replaced ON MY DIME.

      My question to all of you professionals and enthusiasts; should the adjusters been replaced at the rebuild, if they are bad/defective, why wasn't this detected at rebuild/assembly, could this issue be detected at the rebuild/assembly stage? Should pulling my motor and replacing the adjusters really be my responsibility after paying thousands of dollars and securing a warranty for having my engine rebuilt and reinstalled?

    4. Junior Member vr684's Avatar
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      MKIV DBP R32, eip comp catback, pss9 coilover
      07-12-2015 10:24 PM #4
      The issue was resolved
      Long story short after building and tearing down about 9 times realized the rod caps were not on the correct rods. Rematches all rods and rod caps. Problem solved. But now I'm having starting issues.
      Bored .5mm
      Lower compression Pistons (9.0:1)
      Custom Sri
      4" intake
      4" maf housing
      Hpa a/w intercooler
      Cts exhaust manifold
      3" single outlet downpipe
      44mm tial wastegate
      Forge R/v
      Clutch master 725fx
      Gerrett GT35R
      Custom catless test pipe
      3" non resonated eip after cat back
      Walboro 255lph inline pump
      Bosh cobra water pump (a/w intercooler)
      870cc injectors
      Unitronic BT870cc tune
      Wideband
      Diesel geeks sigma 6
      SAI delete
      Heater core delete

      After finishing the rebuild and installed in engine bay the first turn over was rough. Sounded like an ls1. Let it run for a little bit no change. Started it a few more times same problem. While it was running rough the boost guage was reading 15-10hg. Unplugged the maf and it smoothed out running about 22hg steady. Went on leave and came back to finish working on it would not stay running. Starts and immediately dies. I can keep it running by giving it gas. Getting p0122, p0222 and epc for codes. I'm at a lose. Any ideas whatsoever are greatly appreciated no matter how insignificant they might be. Maybe overlooking something stupid simple at this point. Cheers!
      Last edited by vr684; 07-13-2015 at 07:43 AM.
      Vw love. (o\_!_/o)

    5. Member 24vGTiVR6's Avatar
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      24v VRT
      07-12-2015 10:53 PM #5
      I'd first disconnect the battery and leave it for 15-20 mins. Re-connect and check all fuses first. Then check the MAF itself (new / old? Physical condition? Clean / dirty? Etc), wiring from MAF back to ECU (continuity test), and then do a vag-com throttle body adaptation. Also do you know if the TB has been cleaned? New fuel filter etc etc?

      Make sure you aren't misfiring and check if the coil packs are good. Check spark plug gap. Then try to start again.

      Also I hope with all that effort you got upgraded rods too. And it's alarming that the the engine builder would get something basic wrong like the cam cap order.....

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      Last edited by 24vGTiVR6; 07-12-2015 at 10:58 PM.

    6. Junior Member vr684's Avatar
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      07-12-2015 10:58 PM #6
      Battery has been disconnected for 30+ days. Throtle body adaptation was done and yes the throtle body was cleaned. Maf sensor is clean and was in good functioning order before the rebuild and had no issues the first time it was started up and ran.
      Vw love. (o\_!_/o)

    7. Member 24vGTiVR6's Avatar
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      07-12-2015 10:59 PM #7
      So it did run fine at one point? Hrm yeah there's something else going on. Weird.


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      Last edited by 24vGTiVR6; 07-12-2015 at 11:02 PM.

    8. Junior Member vr684's Avatar
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      07-12-2015 11:06 PM #8
      I wouldn't say normally it was rough running like it had a vacuum leak but I didn't have to give it gas to keep her running. Then I unplugged the maf and it ran better. Now nothing!
      Vw love. (o\_!_/o)

    9. Member 24vGTiVR6's Avatar
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      07-12-2015 11:08 PM #9
      It turns over though right? Can you crank it by hand all the way over?

      I dunno yeah it has to be something stupid. (Hopefully)


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    10. Member Eric D's Avatar
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      07-13-2015 03:38 AM #10
      The original Dub and Dubber.
      Manche VWs sind einfach schneller als andere.

    11. Junior Member vr684's Avatar
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      07-13-2015 05:42 AM #11
      I read through that thread multiple time and did pick out some things I missed but I didn't see "cam gear triggers" mentioned and I am not sure what you mean... I you referring to indexing the hydrolic adjusters??
      Vw love. (o\_!_/o)

    12. Member Eric D's Avatar
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      07-13-2015 06:16 AM #12
      The cam gear trigger is the one with the arrow pointing down.
      Its a for window trigger, that must be rotated clockwise upon setting your timing.
      The original Dub and Dubber.
      Manche VWs sind einfach schneller als andere.

    13. Junior Member vr684's Avatar
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      07-13-2015 06:23 AM #13
      How do I know where to set it in correlation to the adjuster? I was going based on the Bentley manual instructions for timing adjustment and it never mentioned that.
      Vw love. (o\_!_/o)

    14. Member Eric D's Avatar
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      07-13-2015 02:58 PM #14
      If you have the paper or hard back manual, it does go into detail about it.
      Specifically in the R32 section it states that the CD-rom (available from Bentley or web subscription) has more detailed information.
      It also states that the R32 shares many similar components with the 2.8L 24v and for the reader to check out the sections related to the block, head and valve train.

      I copied this from an older post I replied in.

      The Bentley manual has information on performing various functions after doing the chains.

      - Adapting engine control module to throttle valve control module:

      - Perform work sequence "Procedure after interrupting voltage supply":

      - Read readiness code:

      - If DTC memory has been erased or engine control module separated from permanent positive supply, readiness code must be generated again:


      The following tests requires that coolant temperature is above 85º C.

      Perform the intake and exhaust camshaft timing adjustments in group 094 and 096 per the Bentley.

      If either test fails, it states that you should replace the cam gear adjusters (new bolts are a must, they are stretch bolts).

      A faulty cam sensor or crank sensor will prevent the engine from adjusting the cam gears. The ECU will quickly determine this upon 1st cranking the engine and will have a fixed timing.


      I should state that is it not uncommon for a general mechanic (non VW specialist) to install the cam gears incorrectly.
      I scored on a rebuilt 2.8L 24v because LKQ (yes the junkyard people) rebuilt the engine with the cam gears on the wrong cam.
      The car was taken to another VW guy (familiar but not a specialist), and he gave up after spending lots of hours on it.
      The engine was offered for sale and I picked it up cheap.
      I immediately took it home to start the tear down, I did this because this engine had many non original bolts through out.
      They reused the timing chain and guides, nothing was new.
      They did shave the head, but not the upper timing cover.
      They reused the oil pump, nothing wrong with that but I didn't know the mileage on it, so a new pump went it.
      So I did discover the incorrect cam gears and swapped them over.

      I had to correct a lot of issues on this motor.
      The original Dub and Dubber.
      Manche VWs sind einfach schneller als andere.

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