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    Thread: Because Roadkill (yep--it means what you think it means, so come on in!)

    1. 02-11-2017 04:54 PM #376
      Quote Originally Posted by StressStrain View Post
      What's with the 5 lug front and 4 lug rear?
      Quote Originally Posted by 4.OMG View Post
      I'm pretty sure he has a Ford 8.8 rear from a Fox-body Mustang. Much stronger than a 7.5" 10-bolt.
      ^^ THAT.

      I knew the stock 7.5 axle wouldn't survive behind the big block, so I swapped it out for a Fox-body 8.8 axle. For the time being, I am running Fox wheels to match. Eventually, I plan to do a c-clip eliminator and an axle shaft upgrade on that 8.8, at which time I can have the new axle shafts drilled for my stock 5x4.75 pattern. I may also re-gear it at the same time if I think it is necessary (it currently has 3.08 gears)... but for now, what you see is what you get.
      Dempsey Bowling
      Sales Consultant at Doug Smith Dodge/Chrysler/Jeep/Ram/Subaru/Kia/used
      My fleet: 91 Miata, 98 Wrangler Sport, 01 Suburban 2500 8.1L, 14 Impreza Limited, 80 Grand Prix LJ 454

    2. Geriatric Member Aonarch's Avatar
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      02-11-2017 06:51 PM #377
      Woot!

    3. 02-17-2017 11:23 AM #378
      Last night, a co-worker and I dug into my front suspension to install my new springs and shocks. He had recently done a spring swap on his '84 Camaro, so we both figured the process would be the same. It was similar, but we did need to adopt a couple different procedures to make it work.

      We put the car on a lift, disconnected the sway bar, and unbolted the bottom of both shocks. We placed a transmission jack under each inner ends of the driver side lower control arm, then removed those two bolts. Now we slowly lifted the entire car, allowing the control arm to slowly drop down from the inside until the spring was loose. The new spring was put into position, then we gently lowered the car and fiddled with the jacks until the arm ends went back into place. We reinserted both bolts and got the nuts started. Not bad, we both thought.

      I paused to take a photo of one old spring next to one new one. I expected the new ones to be shorter (unloaded) than the old ones, so I was quite surprised to see this:



      The passenger side would not be so easy. The biggest problem was that one header tube runs right below the arm mounts, ie directly in the path we wanted the control arm's rear end to take. Instead of just letting the arm ends drop straight down, this time we'd have to get them to move outward at the same time... and, if we were lucky, the spring wouldn't fly out and kill us in the process.

      We got the old spring out, put the new one in place, and started to move the arm ends back into place. This is where things got difficult, as this arm fought us every inch of the way. We would stop, analyze the situation, lower it back down, adjust the jacks, and try again. We must have done this six or eight times, always with it stubbornly refusing to go where we wanted. Dallin came up with an idea of just trying to get the front arm partially into position--just enough to get its bolt through the forward-most hole. We managed to pull that off, which at least made us feel less unsafe since there was now another anchor point holding the compressed spring in place. Now we could focus on just getting the rear arm mount high enough to be in the correct plane, though it was way too far outside its frame mount. That's when my co-worker Dave passed through to see what we we up to. "If you guys had a ratchet strap, you could pull that outer arm end rearward and it would go right into place." I went rummaging through the shop, found a ratchet strap, and followed his suggestion. Like magic, it went perfectly into place. Wow! At last, we were able to properly insert both bolts on this side.

      By now it was past the time when Dallin had promised his wife he would be home. Oops. We quickly reattached the sway bar and torqued all the control arm nuts. He thought we could quickly swap the shocks and be done with the entire operation, but of course the 37-year-old upper nuts were pretty much rusted in place and didn't want to budge. Dave came back out and suggested we grind off the top. We started to do that on the driver side... it was taking forever... and we ultimately had to break it off after the grinder had cut it halfway through. I told Dallin not to worry about it any more tonight; I would just park the car outside and have Dave take me home. So that was it.

      This morning, I was able to get a photo in the light:



      I only moved the car about 100 feet, so I'm sure the springs will settle a little. Even still, I am thrilled to have the nose up at stock height. There is still a slight bit of rake, which is also fine by me. This turned out about as good as I could have hoped.

      Now, to get the shocks installed....
      Dempsey Bowling
      Sales Consultant at Doug Smith Dodge/Chrysler/Jeep/Ram/Subaru/Kia/used
      My fleet: 91 Miata, 98 Wrangler Sport, 01 Suburban 2500 8.1L, 14 Impreza Limited, 80 Grand Prix LJ 454

    4. Member Smooremin's Avatar
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      02-17-2017 11:28 AM #379
      Quote Originally Posted by patrikman View Post
      Asking OT for relationship advice makes about as much sense as asking TCL what car to buy.

    5. Geriatric Member Aonarch's Avatar
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      02-17-2017 11:57 AM #380
      Awesome!


      Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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      02-17-2017 12:24 PM #381
      I'd say lookin' good, but that doesn't seem quite right.

      Ride height lookin' good.



    7. 02-21-2017 11:03 AM #382
      The new shocks are installed and everything is buttoned up on the front end, so I decided to drive the Grand Prix to work yesterday for a shakedown run. I'm quite pleased with how the car rides. I'm sure it's no slot car, but at least both ends are balanced as far as firmness and suspension response are concerned.

      On my way home, I was on a three-lane concrete road that crosses over some railroad tracks. I was in the center lane, doing between 40-45 MPH as I approached the overpass. As I began climbing the hill, the car in front of me began to slow because the car in front of him was doing the same... even though nobody was in front of him and the stop light on top of the overpass was green. I could see our light was going to change soon, and if the first bozo kept slowing down we'd all have to stop. The right lane was empty and nobody was coming up from behind, so I hit my signal and started to change lanes. Just as I crossed into the right lane, I gave the throttle a light prod--at least I thought it was light--in order to coax the TCU to drop down out of fourth gear and into third. The computer was perhaps a bit too eager, because it went right past third and instead dropped me into second gear. By now I was steering a bit to the left so as to follow the curve of the road, and the sudden onset of torque caused the tires to break loose and the tail end began sliding out to the right. It completely surprised me, but I quickly lifted off the throttle to kill the wheelspin, then got back on it much more gently in order to remain in my lane and safely crest the hill.

      I am quickly realizing this car commands complete respect from its driver.
      Dempsey Bowling
      Sales Consultant at Doug Smith Dodge/Chrysler/Jeep/Ram/Subaru/Kia/used
      My fleet: 91 Miata, 98 Wrangler Sport, 01 Suburban 2500 8.1L, 14 Impreza Limited, 80 Grand Prix LJ 454

    8. 02-21-2017 01:14 PM #383
      just tub the rears

    9. 03-09-2017 09:30 PM #384
      I've put close to 300 miles on the new engine by now. Things seem to be working reasonably well. There are still carburetor quirks, of course, and those just make me want to install my EFI sooner rather than later. But I need to shift my focus to Jeep prep for EJS, so I doubt I'll do anything else of significance to the Pontiac until after Easter.

      I did record another clip at idle, just so you all know I really did fix my header leak. (I wish my phone would record at louder volume.)


      Driving this thing makes me happy. As I've mentioned, the EZ-TCU provides firm, solid shifts even without telling the computer to go overboard. If I gently roll into a bit of throttle from a standstill, it will reliably bark the tires on the 1-2 upshift. This controller is much more aggressive than the OEM programming in my Suburban.



      Anyway, I'm having fun.
      Dempsey Bowling
      Sales Consultant at Doug Smith Dodge/Chrysler/Jeep/Ram/Subaru/Kia/used
      My fleet: 91 Miata, 98 Wrangler Sport, 01 Suburban 2500 8.1L, 14 Impreza Limited, 80 Grand Prix LJ 454

    10. 03-10-2017 10:40 AM #385
      Brain fart! This morning it dawned on me: in last night's post I completely forgot to mention curb weight.

      Yesterday while on a casual drive in the GP, I realized I was in the general area of the recycling yard where I weigh my vehicles. The car was relatively empty as far as needless cargo goes, and the gas tank was essentially full, so I decided it would be a good time to find out my "after" weight so I can compare it to when the car was stock. Without further ado:

      Stock (all iron 231/3.8L V6, 3spd auto, 7.5" axle, single soda straw exhaust): 3,320 lbs
      Modified (454 w/iron heads, 4L80E, Ford 8.8 axle, dual 3" exhaust system): 3,740 lbs

      Amazingly, it seems I've picked up enough extra power to overcome the additional 420 pounds of mass.


      And speaking of full tanks of fuel, for the first time with the V8 I calculated my mileage when I filled up yesterday morning. That fuel was used nearly 50-50 between city and highway driving; I managed 11.75 mpg.

      EDIT: I found my original scale slip and updates my figures above.
      Last edited by TurboMinivan; 05-08-2017 at 05:00 PM.
      Dempsey Bowling
      Sales Consultant at Doug Smith Dodge/Chrysler/Jeep/Ram/Subaru/Kia/used
      My fleet: 91 Miata, 98 Wrangler Sport, 01 Suburban 2500 8.1L, 14 Impreza Limited, 80 Grand Prix LJ 454

    11. Member Crispyfritter's Avatar
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      03-14-2017 11:59 AM #386
      I should have weighed mine, but I'm just going from a 350/350 combo to a 6.0/4L65E.

      But wow, I can't believe the weight difference is that huge. That Big block is a heavy beast! I imagine your trans is super heavy too.



      Also, I have a video up of mine running, so we're getting closer to your roadtrip.

      Chris
      | 2017 Korean Appliance SE | 2008 Suburban LTZ | 2003 Dodge Ram | 2002 BMW 530i con mañuel | 1974 SuperBeetle x 2 | 1979 Camaro | 1975 Scout |
      The poster formerly known as 200HP4dr

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      03-14-2017 12:17 PM #387
      An extra 440 pounds of road-hugging weight. Still lighter than my aluminum-block 6.2l car!
      Quote Originally Posted by sosumi on the B6 S4 V8
      It sounds like a giant shotgun and then like a bunch of ground up Yugo's in a cement mixer followed by weeks of silence interspersed by wails from the owner.

    13. 03-14-2017 12:20 PM #388
      Quote Originally Posted by Crispyfritter View Post
      But wow, I can't believe the weight difference is that huge. That Big block is a heavy beast! I imagine your trans is super heavy too.
      Yep, lots of cast iron there. Half the reason I want to swap to aluminum heads is just to drop a hundred pounds off the nose--the extra power and torque will just be a nice bonus. And everybody says the 4L80 weighs a ton, which I believe after trying to lift it.

      I'll go looking for your video (which I presume is in your Camaro thread).
      Dempsey Bowling
      Sales Consultant at Doug Smith Dodge/Chrysler/Jeep/Ram/Subaru/Kia/used
      My fleet: 91 Miata, 98 Wrangler Sport, 01 Suburban 2500 8.1L, 14 Impreza Limited, 80 Grand Prix LJ 454

    14. Member Crispyfritter's Avatar
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      03-14-2017 12:23 PM #389
      Quote Originally Posted by TurboMinivan View Post
      Yep, lots of cast iron there. Half the reason I want to swap to aluminum heads is just to drop a hundred pounds off the nose--the extra power and torque will just be a nice bonus. And everybody says the 4L80 weighs a ton, which I believe after trying to lift it.

      I'll go looking for your video (which I presume is in your Camaro thread).
      Make sure you check out Finnegan's Garage YouTube channel. He does a direct weight comparison on a big block between the stock vs. Aluminum heads The weight savings is pretty substantial.

      And yeah, its in my Camaro thread. Search for "Mullet"



      Chris

      Edit: Here: http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...e-inside/page6
      Last edited by Crispyfritter; 03-14-2017 at 12:35 PM.
      | 2017 Korean Appliance SE | 2008 Suburban LTZ | 2003 Dodge Ram | 2002 BMW 530i con mañuel | 1974 SuperBeetle x 2 | 1979 Camaro | 1975 Scout |
      The poster formerly known as 200HP4dr

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      04-21-2017 04:28 PM #390
      Updates?

    16. 04-22-2017 11:45 AM #391
      Quote Originally Posted by PoorHouse View Post
      Updates?
      Well, earlier I had said this:

      Quote Originally Posted by TurboMinivan View Post
      But I need to shift my focus to Jeep prep for EJS, so I doubt I'll do anything else of significance to the Pontiac until after Easter.
      But now its after Easter, you're saying. While that's true, I haven't done anything major other than plan out my next move. I am debating between installing the EFI (which would require a new gas tank & pump assembly), upgrading the front brakes (they are down to the wear indicators, and the RWD 2nd-gen Blazer setup is a bolt-on swap), or addressing the rear axle (installing c-clip eliminators and new axle shafts). Decisions, decisions.

      Oh! I did do something a few weeks ago, and it is well worth mentioning here. Ever since getting the car running with the V8, I have had a bizarre variety of intermittent electrical issues. For example, my 4-pack of secondary gauges would sometimes wiggle all their needles in unison... but since my primary gauges didn't do the same thing, I figured it had to do with a poor connection in their wiring (the 4-pack is wired completely independent from the primary gauges). I would also notice the volt gauge indicated the alternator would struggle to get past 12v any time I was at idle, and even at moderate RPM seemingly small loads would cause the gauge to drop significantly. The real kicker was nighttime driving: the car's entire lighting system would randomly dim sharply for no apparent reason, as if the entire lighting system was shorting out or something. Replacing the alternator didn't make a lick of difference. It was weird.

      Then one day Mike and I stopped by O'Reilly and were chatting with Eric. He was telling us about his '64 El Camino which he just got running, and he shared a fascinating tale. "Man, when I started driving the car it kept having electrical problems. I'd be going along and it was like the entire car would suddenly short out--the headlights would go dark, the engine would sputter, the gauges went nuts, etc. Someone asked me about ground straps, so I went home and dug up a plain old GM engine-to-firewall strap. I attached it to the back of the intake manifold and the firewall. Suddenly all of my electrical problems were fixed."

      I started thinking about the GP. I couldn't recall hooking up any sort of ground wire like this. Furthermore, the car's negative battery cable has a beefy wire going to the engine block, but does not have a smaller wire going to the body. Hmm. Could my solution really be so simple? As soon as I got home, I went looking through my garage for a ground strap. I didn't have a GM one, but I did have a couple from FWD turbo Mopars. I figured the electrons wouldn't mind the brand mismatch, so I installed one between the back of the intake manifold and the firewall.



      Bam! Just like that, all of my electrical gremlins disappeared. Gauge needles stopped flickering, alternator charges properly, my voltage doesn't drop, my headlights stay bright, etc etc etc.

      Ground straps, people! Ground straps!
      Dempsey Bowling
      Sales Consultant at Doug Smith Dodge/Chrysler/Jeep/Ram/Subaru/Kia/used
      My fleet: 91 Miata, 98 Wrangler Sport, 01 Suburban 2500 8.1L, 14 Impreza Limited, 80 Grand Prix LJ 454

    17. Member monoaural's Avatar
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      04-22-2017 04:22 PM #392
      Quote Originally Posted by TurboMinivan View Post

      Bam! Just like that, all of my electrical gremlins disappeared. Gauge needles stopped flickering, alternator charges properly, my voltage doesn't drop, my headlights stay bright, etc etc etc.

      Ground straps, people! Ground straps!
      I bought my first Vw rabbit pickup with the same problem. No ground from the battery to the body. The fuel gauge would drop when you were sitting on the brakes.
      As you have electronic controls for the trans, I would add a ground from the battery to body as well, as the battery does a lot to clean up electrical noise from the alternator.
      -Jon

    18. 04-22-2017 05:04 PM #393
      Quote Originally Posted by monoaural View Post
      I would add a ground from the battery to body as well
      I fully intend to do so, as soon as I can find a cable of the correct length that includes this secondary wire.
      Dempsey Bowling
      Sales Consultant at Doug Smith Dodge/Chrysler/Jeep/Ram/Subaru/Kia/used
      My fleet: 91 Miata, 98 Wrangler Sport, 01 Suburban 2500 8.1L, 14 Impreza Limited, 80 Grand Prix LJ 454

    19. 05-08-2017 05:03 PM #394
      While rummaging through the counter space in my garage, I found my original scale printout from the recycling yard. Turns out my starting weight was 20 pounds higher than I remembered, meaning the engine conversion only added 420 pounds rather than 440. FYI.

      On the way to work today, the GP needed fuel. After fillup, some quick math revealed a tank average of 12.94 mpg. A new record!!!
      Dempsey Bowling
      Sales Consultant at Doug Smith Dodge/Chrysler/Jeep/Ram/Subaru/Kia/used
      My fleet: 91 Miata, 98 Wrangler Sport, 01 Suburban 2500 8.1L, 14 Impreza Limited, 80 Grand Prix LJ 454

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