VWVortex.com - Because Roadkill (yep--it means what you think it means, so come on in!)
Username or Email Address
Do you already have an account?
Forgot your password?
  • Log in or Sign up

    VWVortex


    The Car Lounge
    Page 2 of 16 FirstFirst 12345612 ... LastLast
    Results 26 to 50 of 383

    Thread: Because Roadkill (yep--it means what you think it means, so come on in!)

    1. Member Crispyfritter's Avatar
      Join Date
      Nov 21st, 2001
      Location
      SW KS
      Posts
      11,235
      08-27-2015 10:50 AM #26
      IF you go big block, you'll need to call Moser sooner rather than later. If you go small block, you'll be okay for a bit.

      As I'm looking at which powertrain to go with in my Buick, I've found that it will cost me around $1400 in parts just to rebuild the Nailhead, but I can get an under 100k mile 6.0 with a transmission for $2800. Yeah, I'll have fuel pump issues to deal with, but I think in the long run, I'll be happier with the LS engine.

      Sweet score on that GP, btw. That distinctive 1980 model grille won't be mistaken for anything else on the road.

      Chris
      | 2009 Kia Borrego | 2002 BMW 530i with man pedal | 1999 Ford F-250 | 1974 SuperBeetle | 1979 Camaro |
      The poster formerly known as 200HP4dr

    2. Member Chris_V's Avatar
      Join Date
      Jun 18th, 2009
      Location
      Pikesville, MD
      Posts
      16,191
      Vehicles
      '01 BMW 740i Sport, '05 330ci ZHP, '02 Suburban 2500LT
      08-27-2015 10:51 AM #27
      Quote Originally Posted by TurboMinivan View Post
      So now I need to decide: small block or big block? They'll both fit into the engine bay, and they'll even bolt up to the same engine mounts. I'll need a different transmission either way, so it's not like that would sway me in any particular direction.

      Hmm. What to do, what to do?
      8.1 liter Vortech. You know you want to.
      "Like a fine Detroit wine, this vehicle has aged to budgetary perfection"

    3. 08-27-2015 11:00 AM #28
      Quote Originally Posted by Chris_V View Post
      8.1 liter Vortech. You know you want to.
      Stop saying that!
      Dempsey Bowling
      Sales Consultant at Doug Smith Dodge/Chrysler/Jeep/Ram/Subaru/Kia/used
      My fleet: 91 Miata, 98 Wrangler Sport, 01 Suburban 2500 8.1L, 14 Impreza Limited, 80 Grand Prix LJ

    4. Member BobL2438's Avatar
      Join Date
      Apr 29th, 2006
      Location
      SL,UT
      Posts
      683
      Vehicles
      '15 Tundra CrewMax, '13.5 GLI Autobahn, 1967 Shortbed Chevy C10
      08-27-2015 11:26 AM #29
      Gotta love the options with chevy!! If you can source a good big block that wont break the bank, I say go big block. If not, you can do just as much damage with a nicely warmed over small block. Back it with a TH400 and you're set!! But if you're gearing is low in the rear its not going to be quiet on the highway... ask me how I know!!

    5. Member Joosh's Avatar
      Join Date
      Aug 3rd, 2014
      Location
      Denver, CO
      Posts
      565
      Vehicles
      1988 Fox wagon, Many Bicycles
      08-27-2015 11:29 AM #30
      Stick with the V6 and 13" wires!


    6. Member Chris_V's Avatar
      Join Date
      Jun 18th, 2009
      Location
      Pikesville, MD
      Posts
      16,191
      Vehicles
      '01 BMW 740i Sport, '05 330ci ZHP, '02 Suburban 2500LT
      08-27-2015 11:30 AM #31
      Quote Originally Posted by BobL2438 View Post
      Gotta love the options with chevy!! If you can source a good big block that wont break the bank, I say go big block. If not, you can do just as much damage with a nicely warmed over small block. Back it with a TH400 and you're set!! But if you're gearing is low in the rear its not going to be quiet on the highway... ask me how I know!!
      Going small block don't use a TH400. Convert to a 2004R or even a 700R4 for the additional highway gear ratio, while retaining the short first and second gears for excellent acceleration. I'm converting my kid's '79 Chevy truck to a 2004R right now, and they are good for quite a bit of power: http://www.bowtieoverdrives.com/
      "Like a fine Detroit wine, this vehicle has aged to budgetary perfection"

    7. Member BobL2438's Avatar
      Join Date
      Apr 29th, 2006
      Location
      SL,UT
      Posts
      683
      Vehicles
      '15 Tundra CrewMax, '13.5 GLI Autobahn, 1967 Shortbed Chevy C10
      08-27-2015 11:50 AM #32
      Quote Originally Posted by Chris_V View Post
      Going small block don't use a TH400. Convert to a 2004R or even a 700R4 for the additional highway gear ratio, while retaining the short first and second gears for excellent acceleration
      I didnt even think about the 2004R... I had a small block and B&M TH400 in my '70, but I had a 3.08 rear end and it wasnt that bad on the highway at speed... the '67 has 3.83s and tachs just over 3100 RPM at around 60MPH. It launches to 60 fast though.

    8. 08-27-2015 12:15 PM #33
      Quote Originally Posted by TurboMinivan View Post
      Thus began a flurry of text messaging last night. This morning, I finally got the guy to agree to take a grand for it. Without further ado, I fired up the ol' 8.1L, hooked up the trailer, and headed north for a 3 hour drive to Pocatello. Everything checked out--and the seller had removed that awful chain steering wheel, thank the Lord--so I traded the guy some bills for the title and keys, loaded up my prized find, and headed back.
      Awful chain steering wheel??? I can't believe you let him keep it? I want it! LOL
      PS. Great write-up! I'll be interested to see where this goes.

    9. Geriatric Member AKADriver's Avatar
      Join Date
      Nov 20th, 2001
      Location
      Unreal VA
      Posts
      41,772
      Vehicles
      '12 Mazda2, '09 Forester
      08-27-2015 12:26 PM #34
      Quote Originally Posted by Chris_V View Post
      Going small block don't use a TH400. Convert to a 2004R or even a 700R4 for the additional highway gear ratio, while retaining the short first and second gears for excellent acceleration. I'm converting my kid's '79 Chevy truck to a 2004R right now, and they are good for quite a bit of power: http://www.bowtieoverdrives.com/
      2004Rs are pretty impressive these days. People are even swapping them into Mopars now - unlike the Dodge truck overdrive transmissions they fit under the muscle car era floorpans (that torsion bar bracket gets in the way of the big tailshaft sections on the A500/518).
      Splinter - Team Post-Killing Ninja
      I don't practice llanteria

    10. Member 4.OMG's Avatar
      Join Date
      Dec 20th, 2004
      Location
      SE MI
      Posts
      4,134
      Vehicles
      GMC, Ford x2
      08-27-2015 02:08 PM #35
      Quote Originally Posted by Chris_V View Post
      Going small block don't use a TH400. Convert to a 2004R or even a 700R4 for the additional highway gear ratio, while retaining the short first and second gears for excellent acceleration. I'm converting my kid's '79 Chevy truck to a 2004R right now, and they are good for quite a bit of power: http://www.bowtieoverdrives.com/
      This. I would choose a 200-4R over a 700R4 though. The 200 can be built to take huge power (ask the turbo Buick crowd) and doesn't have the huge 1-2 drop.

    11. Member 4.OMG's Avatar
      Join Date
      Dec 20th, 2004
      Location
      SE MI
      Posts
      4,134
      Vehicles
      GMC, Ford x2
      08-27-2015 02:17 PM #36
      Cool car, by the way. My first car was an '84 Cutlass with basically the same blue interior and a wheezing 3.8 that smoked like I was fogging for 'skeeters, so this car resonates with me.

      As far as wheels, I don't think the GTA crosslaces look right on a G-body at all, so I would either get the snowflakes or the G-body rallye wheels, or best yet, classic rallyes with dog dish centers.

    12. Geriatric Member AKADriver's Avatar
      Join Date
      Nov 20th, 2001
      Location
      Unreal VA
      Posts
      41,772
      Vehicles
      '12 Mazda2, '09 Forester
      08-27-2015 02:23 PM #37
      Quote Originally Posted by 4.OMG View Post
      Cool car, by the way. My first car was an '84 Cutlass with basically the same blue interior and a wheezing 3.8 that smoked like I was fogging for 'skeeters, so this car resonates with me.

      As far as wheels, I don't think the GTA crosslaces look right on a G-body at all, so I would either get the snowflakes or the G-body rallye wheels, or best yet, classic rallyes with dog dish centers.
      Chevy Rally wheels with dig dish caps would be a little odd... Pontiac Rally II wheels would look legit:

      Splinter - Team Post-Killing Ninja
      I don't practice llanteria

    13. Member 4.OMG's Avatar
      Join Date
      Dec 20th, 2004
      Location
      SE MI
      Posts
      4,134
      Vehicles
      GMC, Ford x2
      08-27-2015 02:36 PM #38
      Why would it be odd? A lot of people would say it isn't a real Pontiac anyways, so running Chevy wheels isn't a crime.

    14. 08-27-2015 03:21 PM #39
      Quote Originally Posted by 4.OMG View Post
      As far as wheels, I don't think the GTA crosslaces look right on a G-body at all
      The more I thought about it, the more I came to this same conclusion.

      Quote Originally Posted by 4.OMG View Post
      A lot of people would say it isn't a real Pontiac anyways, so running Chevy wheels isn't a crime.
      I sure hope it isn't a crime, because I just struck a deal to buy these Z28 wheels for cheap:



      They are 15x7s with 4" backspace, so they should fit my Poncho just fine. I'll clean them up**, wrap them in 235/60 Cooper Cobra Radial GTs and that will be that.

      **: I'm wondering if I should strip the gold paint off them... and, if so, how to do it. Or maybe I won't even bother--the mismatch color will make it look even more like a junkyard hodgepodge.
      Last edited by TurboMinivan; 01-01-2017 at 08:22 PM.
      Dempsey Bowling
      Sales Consultant at Doug Smith Dodge/Chrysler/Jeep/Ram/Subaru/Kia/used
      My fleet: 91 Miata, 98 Wrangler Sport, 01 Suburban 2500 8.1L, 14 Impreza Limited, 80 Grand Prix LJ

    15. Member 1985Jetta's Avatar
      Join Date
      Mar 11th, 2012
      Posts
      19,254
      Vehicles
      1985 Jetta GL 5MT, 1991 Jetta GL 3AT, 1973 Gran Torino station wagon
      08-27-2015 03:23 PM #40
      Quote Originally Posted by TurboMinivan View Post
      Or maybe I won't even bother--the mismatch color will make it look even more like a junkyard hodgepodge.

    16. Member Lanceevox's Avatar
      Join Date
      Mar 20th, 2006
      Location
      Long Beach, CA
      Posts
      2,884
      Vehicles
      2010 DUC HYP EVO SP
      08-27-2015 04:16 PM #41
      WHERE IS THE TWISTED METAL CONTENT?


    17. 08-27-2015 04:49 PM #42
      Quote Originally Posted by Lanceevox View Post
      WHERE IS THE TWISTED METAL CONTENT?
      Some of us prefer playing with real cars in the real world rather than a virtual one in a virtual world.





      But thanks for checking in.


      (Full disclosure: I had to google Twisted Metal to figure out what the hell you were talking about.)
      Dempsey Bowling
      Sales Consultant at Doug Smith Dodge/Chrysler/Jeep/Ram/Subaru/Kia/used
      My fleet: 91 Miata, 98 Wrangler Sport, 01 Suburban 2500 8.1L, 14 Impreza Limited, 80 Grand Prix LJ

    18. Member Broduski's Avatar
      Join Date
      Nov 18th, 2008
      Location
      Central NC
      Posts
      5,278
      Vehicles
      87 Bronco, E34 525i, 78 W200, 91 LX 5.0
      08-27-2015 08:06 PM #43
      Sbf.

      :p
      Quote Originally Posted by Crimping Is Easy View Post
      People always like to throw around words like "no" and "title" or "illegal" or "feds", but at the end of the day, they're just words.

    19. Member
      Join Date
      Aug 23rd, 2013
      Location
      South of Heaven
      Posts
      1,005
      08-27-2015 09:28 PM #44
      Looks like a great project. If it were me I would go with a small block which gives more than enough power for most people and is inexpensive to build. If it were me I would also go with fuel injection instead of a carb because injection is easier to live with and is decent in all conditions. All of the cars I have owned with a V8 were carbed but the newer motors are so nice in colder conditions and are now very reliable. Any way you go just make sure to create a plan of what you want out of the car at a really high level and then look at what your options are to get there. There is no replacement for displacement but there is nothing wrong with a nicely tuned small block. Good luck with it and keep us posted with updates.
      - 2000 Audi A4
      - 1994 Corrado VR6
      - 1991 Jetta Syncro Coupe

    20. 08-29-2015 12:32 PM #45
      Yesterday after my second trip to the DMV, I finally completed Step One:




      As for Step Two, I did some online research to figure out which exact carburetor is on the V6. It happens to be a Rochester DualJet model E2ME, which has an electric choke. Doing some more digging, I found a complete .pdf of the entire Delco "operator manual" for this exact carb. Not only did it help me verify the model, it then goes into great detail about how each component of the carb operates (both the principle and with specific information)... and after that, it goes step-by-step to explain how to tune/calibrate every component as well. This was a very exciting find for me. As I mentioned earlier, I have precisely zero experience tuning or adjusting any carburetor ever; I eagerly look forward to learning something new here (even if I am going to chuck this engine in the near future).

      My next goal: get the choke to function properly so the engine won't sputter and die after a cold start.
      Last edited by TurboMinivan; 01-01-2017 at 08:25 PM.
      Dempsey Bowling
      Sales Consultant at Doug Smith Dodge/Chrysler/Jeep/Ram/Subaru/Kia/used
      My fleet: 91 Miata, 98 Wrangler Sport, 01 Suburban 2500 8.1L, 14 Impreza Limited, 80 Grand Prix LJ

    21. Senior Member Iroczgirl's Avatar
      Join Date
      Feb 17th, 2007
      Location
      Bend, OR
      Posts
      29,674
      Vehicles
      Some American, British, German, and a bunch of Japanese.
      08-29-2015 12:52 PM #46
      Congrats!!!

      I vote snowflake wheels!

      Big block! (out of some Suburban)

      4 speed! (out of some F-body)

      9" rear! (out of a Lincoln MkV)
      Lots of VW stuff|Rare Scirocco parts!
      The family: '55 Ford 351C, '70 TR6 262Olds, '80 Rabbit AAZ, '84 C30 350, '88 Scirocco 9A, '97 Hardbody KA24E, '01 TJ 150AMC.
      Quote Originally Posted by Crimping Is Easy View Post
      You're always better off with a Citroën.™

    22. Member 71DubBugBug's Avatar
      Join Date
      Dec 3rd, 2006
      Location
      Chicago
      Posts
      10,724
      Vehicles
      91 Audi D11 V8, 71 Super, 07 E320 Bluetec, 05.5 Jetta 2.5
      08-29-2015 12:52 PM #47
      Quote Originally Posted by TurboMinivan View Post
      love the patina!

      definitely go big block especially since you don't plan on taking it on thousand mile road trips, I'm guessing everyone is thinking about mpg?

    23. 08-30-2015 07:14 PM #48
      Quote Originally Posted by 71DubBugBug View Post
      love the patina!

      definitely go big block especially since you don't plan on taking it on thousand mile road trips, I'm guessing everyone is thinking about mpg?
      I just like small blocks because they are cheap. I've built both, and can safely say small block stuff is a good bit cheaper and a lot easier to come by on the used market. A small block with any decent cam also gets bad mpg.
      I have an Instagram: harrisonspeed

      www.harrisonspeed.com

    24. 08-31-2015 04:47 PM #49
      What's that old saying about one step forward, two steps back?


      Saturday night after work, a co-worker (the '64 El Camino guy) decided to follow me home so he could see the car. I told him I was going to enlist his assistance for troubleshooting the seemingly-inop choke function. I already had the air cleaner off, so we got right to work. As we looked it over, it seemed to actually be working just fine; the electric connection was getting power, the choke was actually opening, etc. Nevertheless, the car would cough, buck, sputter, and just didn't want to idle on its own. So I shut it off and we looked around the engine bay.

      Him: "I think I found a vacuum leak."
      Me: "This might be one over here, too."
      Him: "Oh, hey, here's another one down here."
      Me: "Don't forget about that huge one behind the carb I mentioned earlier."
      Him: "Why don't we just rip all these unnecessary vacuum lines off the car?"

      And thus went the conversation. Soon I decided to take the fan and shroud off the engine simply to give up more room to work. Once that was done, I started removing the air pump while he traced vacuum hoses and removed anything he thought didn't look crucial to engine operation. Once we made sure none of the remaining lines had any obvious leaks, I fired it back up.

      Smoooooooooooooth idle.

      Well, okay, it wasn't actually perfectly smooth. Still, it was a huge improvement and we were both somewhat surprised. The gasoline smelled awful, which backs up my gradual realization that this car sat undriven for at least five years, probably more. But it was back alive, and we let it sit and idle for five or six minutes.

      That's when I discovered more leaks. The radiator (filled with straight water) was a bit low. I figured out why soon enough: as the engine warmed and the water level began to rise, it reached the pinhole leak in the driver's end tank and began leaking. While we were looking at that, Mike then noticed that fuel was leaking out of the bottom of the fuel pump (which is probably a bad hose connection, at least I hope that's all it is).

      Mike checked the A/C system for any pressure, and it did hiss back at him. This surprised me since the A/C belt was missing. For kicks, he decided we should 'adapt' the air pump's belt to the A/C compressor. It barely fit. When I turned on the A/C, the compressor didn't come to life... but the engine idle speed did increase, which made us both happy.



      By now it was 11:00 so we decided to call it quits for the evening. Mike suggested I run at least one can of Seafoam through the car to try and clean out the carb, which I will do soon. He also suggested a serious degreasing session, but I was already planning to do that.

      Just because I have some on hand, I think I'll slather some JB Weld on the end tank to get it to stop leaking. Also just because I have them in my garage, I may try to install an electric fan (from a Thunderbird) and a Volvo fan relay--I like having that open space for ease of working on the V6.

      I'll see how much more I can accomplish on Wednesday.
      Last edited by TurboMinivan; 01-01-2017 at 08:38 PM.
      Dempsey Bowling
      Sales Consultant at Doug Smith Dodge/Chrysler/Jeep/Ram/Subaru/Kia/used
      My fleet: 91 Miata, 98 Wrangler Sport, 01 Suburban 2500 8.1L, 14 Impreza Limited, 80 Grand Prix LJ

    25. 09-08-2015 01:03 PM #50
      A few days ago, I went out to the car in the morning to attend to the hole in the radiator. Armed with JB Weld, I wiped off the radiator with a shop rag and then slathered some epoxy on there. I then left it to cure. The next day, I filled the radiator... only to see the leak was still there. Turns out I missed the hole. So I drained it, dried it, and tried again. The next day, the leak was mostly gone; there was one small spot where the epoxy didn't quite cure to the end tank (I think it was still damp). This time I drained it, dried it, let it sit to ensure it was really dry, then used JB Quick to epoxy over the epoxy and make sure it would cure quickly. At last, the leak was fixed.

      To date, I still hadn't done anything under the car. Why not? Because it sits so low (thanks to those Dayton wheels) my floor jack doesn't fit under the front crossmember. Last night, I had my friend Mike come back over and bring his low-profile jack with him. This let us lift the front end, and we got right to work. We quickly did the following:

      - changed the engine oil & filter
      - installed new spark plugs (would have also installed new wires but O'Reilly had none in stock)
      - fixed the gasoline leak at the fuel pump
      - installed a new battery
      - installed a new clamp-on terminal on the positive battery cable
      - reinstalled the mechanical fan and the fan shroud

      I am convinced the plugs we took out of the engine were the factory originals. Why? Well, they were AC Delco OEM-spec ones... and they were severely worn with gaps ranging from a 'tight' of .083" to a maximum of .095". Seriously.

      Got gap?


      By now the sun had set so we called it for the night. At this point, all I really have left to do is flush the water out of the engine and replace it with a mixture of coolant, then drive the car to work the seafoam through the engine, then detail the interior and finish cleaning the engine. After that, it'll be road worthy.
      Last edited by TurboMinivan; 01-01-2017 at 08:35 PM.
      Dempsey Bowling
      Sales Consultant at Doug Smith Dodge/Chrysler/Jeep/Ram/Subaru/Kia/used
      My fleet: 91 Miata, 98 Wrangler Sport, 01 Suburban 2500 8.1L, 14 Impreza Limited, 80 Grand Prix LJ

    For advertising information click HERE

    Page 2 of 16 FirstFirst 12345612 ... LastLast

    Posting Permissions

    • You may not post new threads
    • You may not post replies
    • You may not post attachments
    • You may not edit your posts
    •