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Steering noise/issue

4K views 9 replies 4 participants last post by  christofambrosch 
#1 ·
I know I've posted this once before and didn't get much input

I'll try to keep it simple.

MkV r32. 79k

When sitting in a parked position, engine running, and I jog the wheel back and fourth I'm hearing an awful clunking noise from what sounds to me to be the steering rack.

-The noise can not be replicated unless the vehicle is stopped with the front suspension loaded.

-While moving, be it 5 mph or 55 mph the noise can not be replicated.

-Tyrolsport deadest kit installed upfront, no apparent play in the u joint that connects the steering shaft to the rack.

There doesn't seem to be a whole lot of information about issues with mkv steering racks making noise like I'm describing. Most information pertains to subframe shifting which can't be the case.

Any one have similar issues?


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#2 ·
theguy831,

I'm having the very same issue with my car (MKV R32, 64k). If I just move the steering wheel a degree or two to the left or right, I hear a clunking sound that appears to be classic joint wear or possibly the rack as you mentioned.

I had a trusted VW mechanic check it out and he said that it was the strut top mounts. I didn't argue with him, but I don't see how the strut mounts would come into play with such minimal steering input. I plan to look into further myself with someone moving the wheel for me.

I'm curious to hear the other members take is on this issue.
 
#4 ·
Some of the earlier production vehicles on the same chassis had problems with their steering rack for something like a notchy feel. I don't remember exactly what the concerns were but VW updated the rack. If you were to replace the rack with a rebuild from a VW dealer, you'd only be able to get the updated version with 3 mounting bolts. If your car still has the older version with 4 mounting bolts, you'd also need to buy a wire harness since the updated version has different plugs I guess. Something like $1200 for those two parts, plus the bolts needed to drop the subframe.

We can't be much help without hearing the noise ourselves so all we can do is make suggestions. Perhaps you start replacing the cheaper, easier to replace items first like ball joints, strut mounts, tie rod ends.

Is the noise still present when applying the brakes? Have a mechanic's stethoscope?
 
#6 ·
I will check tomorrow. Can't say I can remember applying the brakes while shaking the wheel but I can't say for certain that it'd make any difference based on the noise I'm hearing.

Any clue why VW changed the mounting of the updated rack? Seems odd that they'd change the number of bolts fastening the rack to the subframe. Further more, I noticed in your thread that you didn't want anything to do with changing the steering harness. How big of a pia is it to r&r?

Lastly, I remember reading about issues adapting new steering racks to our cars. Something about steering motors being shipped in boxes with the wrong part numbers on them? Will a new rack present any of those issues?


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#7 ·
I don't know what the update entails, but my guess for the reduced # of mounting bolts is either the engineers figured it wasn't necessary or the bean counters liked the idea of saving the price of a bolt times x # of 100ks or millions of cars.

Replacing the harness isn't too big of a deal, but why spend the extra $200 if it isn't needed? Instead I installed an aftermarket 'rebuilt' 4 bolt unit. Came with new bellows boots and inner tie rods, was still a bit pricey but saved something like $300 - 500 vs buying a rack & harness from my dealer. I ordered for a base golf, the company was apprehensive about selling it to me since the parts catalog stated that the replacement rack for an 08 R32 was the updated 3 bolt generation. I told them it should work fine and it did. No trouble codes, no coding change needed, adaptations were even the same. Steering feel was the same. Do your own research and don't just take my word, if you decide to replace your rack that is.

You can try finding yourself a used one from a car wrecked in the rear; prior ownership of my car had a minor collision in R/F which is what I believe to be cause of the rack's vibration problem. I think any mk5 chassis car with the same generation steering will work. Don't quote me but I think our cars came with generation 2, it's been a while so I don't really remember anymore. You'd also want a later model year rack to avoid the issues that led to the update.

Sometimes parts are packaged wrong but it's never really an epidemic and gets fixed. So you shouldn't have to worry about mispackaged or misassembled parts. As far as installing an updated generation rack is concerned, I've never done it myself so I don't know if it's plug and play or not, beside the harness change.

Rack replacement isn't cheap and a little labor intensive, so make sure your noise isn't something else.
 
#8 ·
Thanks for your insight. I was hoping you'd chime in on this one. Where did you source you rebuilt rack from? Common parts supplier? (I.e. Worldpac or something of the sorts?)

Fortunately for me, being a mechanic (you might not believe it based on how troubled this noise issue has been, being that it doesn't make sense), I have access to parts at a discount and a full shop at my disposal.


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#9 ·
I don't remember the name of the rebuilder, it's been a while. I won't be back at work until next week so I can't find out for you.

Being a mechanic isn't easy, especially nowadays with all the new crap being crammed into cars. I still don't know what's causing the remaining vibration in my own car, hard to pinpoint. Only clue I have is that it's probably coming from the front since moving the subframe around for repairs or alignments changes the behavior of the vibration. I've narrowed it down to some joint in the L/F suspension, or the transmission (will replace when it craps out for good), maybe DMF (probably not), front struts/springs or front brake discs. If none of those or it's coming from somewhere else then FML.

It's getting tough having to know how to do so many things like calibrating all the driver assistance systems radars and cameras, diagnosing a plethora of electrical systems, bluetooth & wifi concerns, sound systems, engine management, transmissions, squeaks/rattles, wind noise, suspension issues, sunroofs, deciphering increasingly confusing maintenance tables. Trying to diagnose software problems is frustrating because you can't tell if there's a problem with the car or if the customer will have to wait for a software update; there's no way to know, i'm not an engineer. The 2017 Q7 was launched before appropriate scan tool software was available, but that's a common trend with a new Audi launch. I have to constantly learn new stuff while still being able to fix the older OBD2 stuff; so glad that we never see the older audis, i'd be useless.
 
#10 ·
I have had a similar noise/thunk for a few years now. The subframe has been dropped several times for various things and every time I have checked for any play to no avail. It is faint if I make it do it while standing still so it doesn't bother me most times I drive the car. I have ruled out: wheel bearings, control arm bushings, sway bar bushings, end links, ball joints, tie rods, subframe bolts (TyrolSport collars), strut mounts (back when I had coilovers and now with air struts), connector from steering column to rack, and steering rack mounting. It's all good/fresh and still does it. So I just drive.

The 2017 Q7 was launched before appropriate scan tool software was available, but that's a common trend with a new Audi launch. I have to constantly learn new stuff while still being able to fix the older OBD2 stuff; so glad that we never see the older audis, i'd be useless.
Sounds like when the Routan first came to the dealers...we had no Chrysler scan tool for them. That was a mess because most of them rolled off the car carrier with 10 plus recalls on them. Some of the older Audis are more of a physical pain because of the way they shoved everything in. If it has a 2.7T or a V8; "step one, remove motor"...for everything! Haha. It was a good experience working at a private shop that took in older VW, Audi, and Porsche.
 
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