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    VWVortex


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    Thread: The Official New Beetle/New Beetle Convertible D.I.Y./FAQ Thread

    1. 04-03-2003 05:14 PM #1
      Please **ONLY** post the information you have and **NOT** debate it within the thread. If you do I'll delete the posts in order to save the thread.
      If you have a question about something in the FAQ please post in the forums and DO NOT post it in the FAQ or it will be deleted.
      Please make sure the "Append signature to this post" box is NOT checked before posting.
      Have fun.

    2. 04-03-2003 05:23 PM #2
      Here is a simple one to start off with.
      Honda S2000 Antenna Installation
      This will work for other masts, not only the S2K one.
      1. Unscrew old mast from base.
      2. screw new mast onto base mast, hand tight. Do not over tighten as you may strip the threads.
      3. Enjoy your new look
      It is really that simple. Took me less than five minutes. If you are worried about your new mast being stolen use LockTite to seal antenna onto mast. I didn't use this and still have my antenna.
      Here is a small picture of the S2K antenna on my car.


    3. 04-03-2003 08:35 PM #3
      Good to see a sticky topic. I started a thread of this nature last week - here are my highlights:
      Common knowledge - TDI midpipe nicely replaces the beetle midmuffler for a cheap performance upgrade. Hit the dealer, get the pipe have it installed. Voila. Exhaust work is cheap and dirty, don't bother doing it yourself.
      Vented wheel liner vent - submitted by blubuga "pick up a wheel liner for a Turbo S, they have a vent built in. A couple of years ago before there was a production model you could swap people were grafting in the vent cut from an Audi liner" for a step-by step visit: http://turbobeetle.topcities.com/tech/vent/index.htm

      GT Touring Bubble added - "S liner, around $36 ... just go to the parts guy and check on a front passenger fender liner for your bug. Say you have a S. The part #'s are right next to each other, you want the one w/ "Sport" beside it. I put mine in a few weeks back, no big difference, just a little less heatsoak drain when the engine is hot. A good mod to build for the future"
      Downpipe - Jay Childress informed us that the GTI downpipe will fit the New Beetle perfectly. Sweet business Jay! [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]
      Chip - ASurroca "whatever you plan on doing, chiptuning should always be Step #1" Agreed. The most HP for the $ is chipping your 1.8T.
      How to remove the ECU - http://turbobeetle.topcities.com/tech/ecu/index.htm send to chip vendor of choice. Repeat steps in reverse.
      General chip info to consider is that you'll want to be sure that there are no mechanical troubles with the car beforehand - chipping will only aggrevate the issue. Most people suggest switching to a quality synthetic oil when chipping ( if you haven't already ) - turbo temps will be higher and there is a greater risk of cooking. Most chiptuners require the use of a 4bar fuel pressure regulator... bottom of this PDF- http://goapr.com/VW/support/ecu_beetle.pdf then, also you'll need to upgrade your diverter valve - http://turbobeetle.topcities.com/tech/forge/install.htm
      Best New Beetle DIY link I've come across yet - http://turbobeetle.topcities.com/ Go there, enjoy.

    4. 04-27-2003 09:45 PM #4
      Boost gauge plumbing photo: Pick up Sunpro nylon tubing kit - Kit contains brass 1/4 inch NPT x compression fitting for gauge. Pick up 1/8 inch vacuum plastic tee vacu-tite part number 47325, vacu-tite vacuum connector part number 47400 and some cable ties. Cut hose indicated in drawing. Insert ends of plastic tee in cut vaccum line. Insert tee's outlet inside larger vacuum connector end. Insert nylon tubing inside smaller vacuum connector end. Secure with cable ties. From engine bay, push rubber gromet into driver area. Remove panel under dash and find rubber gromet. Use 1/8 inch punch to put hole in center of gromet. Get a leather punch kit - Very useful for punching holes in gromets. Run nylon tubing in gromet hole and place back in firewall hole from engine bay.


    5. 06-14-2003 12:59 PM #5
      EDIT: Very important. Allow the vehicle to cool overnight (8h?) or more before trying this. It's the difference between spilling not one single drop of coolant.. and having your face cooked by a spray of steaming toxic stuff. Be smart and let it get nice and cold.
      It came to my attention a while back that VW has been using faulty coolant temperature sensors in it's 1.8T cars. Easy and cheap fix though. Some say that their 2003 cars HAVE the new and improved version, others.. not.
      Follow this thread to see pics of what the good one and bad one will look like. For those of you who don't know where to look - it's in between the airbox and your engine, halfway from the bumper to the firewall, about a foot lower than the airbox. Look at the pics in the thread.. it's an easy one.
      New Beetle method
      Parts required:
      Revised "Green" coolant sensor P.N. 059 919 501A
      O-Ring seal is P.N. N 903 168 02
      Resin Retaining Clip is P.N. 032 121 142
      Tools required:
      10mm socket and extension
      flathead screwdriver ( small )
      papertowel
      Steps:
      Remove engine cover. 2 10mm nuts and slide towards the passenger side of the bay.
      Remove this pipe from the airbox for clearance.

      Use flat screwdriver to dislodge the c-clip holding the sensor.
      Pull the sensor.
      Use flat screwdriver to dislodge the original o-ring.
      Inspect for dust and corrosion floating on the surface of the coolant. Wrap your index finger in paper towel and poke it in there to get the dust out. While you are at it - clean the cup.
      Place new sensor in the same orientation as the original. No it doesn't matter, but it means you won't have to twist the wiring harness to plug it back in.
      Use the flat screwdriver to lift the tab inside the plug, to free the plug from the sensor. There is a square hole on the side of it, look in the hole. There is your tab. Lift and slide it off.
      Inspect for corrosion
      Push onto new sensor till it makes a quiet click
      Plug the hose back into the airbox
      Replace engine cover
      Check for tools laying about the engine bay
      Start car and note the smoother, quieter idle. Other improvements have also been noted - do a search on vwvortex to read all about it. For the price ($8 canadian) - it's well worth it.
      Let's keep this thing going!


      Modified by Plucker at 2:14 PM 6-14-2003

    6. 06-14-2003 01:57 PM #6
      Ok. Here's another one I did... Ghetto bugmod intake
      Background: I did something similar with my previous car.. was going to simply buy the bugmod kit, but decided to diy and save the $ for something better.. like a new MAF sensor. These parts cost me nothing, but may cost you $10-$20.. plus the K&N, which you may already have. I like the bugmod design - except the opening. A hole in your signal light is unattractive, makes your car look more "modified" and I don't want any questions from the safety inspetors. The inlet hole on the bugmod kit is also small - mine uses a less restrictive 5" opening. You can not see it without putting the car on a lift - and then it's still not too flashy. My tube is orange (motorsport brake ducting ), but you can get it in clear and black too for that OEM look. Anyhow - that's the why. Here's the "how".
      Parts required:
      4ft. aeroduct aka donkeydick (aircraft quality).. or go get some of this.
      You want 3" diameter, and you want to make sure that it's for a CENTRAL VAC system.. NOT a dryer hose. The central vac tube is made to withstand (duh) negative pressures and will not collapse under these pressures.
      You want a 5" - 3" reducer fitting. You should be able to get this reducer at the same supply store as above.
      K&N panel filter kit
      Various zip ties
      Tools required:
      Trunk kit ( jack, etc )
      Socket set ( LONG extensions, like 14" long )
      Knife
      Pliars (sp?)
      Torx screwdriver #20 & #25
      Med Vice Grips (for intake pipe clamp)
      Masking tape
      Method:
      With your hood open, jack up your car on the drivers side
      Remove the wheel
      Remove the wheelwell liner ( same as the mod in an earlier post, I won't repeat )
      Unplug your MAF sensor, remove all plumbing from the airbox. Remove the airbox.. it's obvious how it's done so I won't bother typing that part. Place a rag in the opening of the intake pipe.. you don't want tools or debris going down there, do you? This one saved me that day cause my friend lost grip on a socket and tossed a bolt in that direction. It landed in a fold of the rag. It's a huge pain in the ass to get junk out of there. Be careful ok?
      Remove the battery (it's a bonus cause it'll give you more space to work - and also reset your ecu
      Now.. remove your snowbox, as per the instructions that are found in the link in an earlier post. It's easy.. couple bolts and a few twists - and it's out. You'll have an easier time if someone is on the top side holding the pipe still. It'll be more obvious what I mean when you're doing it.
      Remove the pipe that joins the snowbox to the airbox. There is one sneaky bolt holding it in place. It's down low, near the back of the headlight. Toss on an extension and give'er. This one is a little tricky to slide out - but you will NOT need to remove the headlight.
      You are now half done. Pat yourself on the back.
      Take your tubing and partially flatten it with your foot. You don't want to crush it - but you do want to make it roughly the same shape as was the original airbox inlet pipe.. also it'll giveyou more clearance to get behind the headlight. This is easier if you have a friend feeding it down from the top. Snake it through - keep in mind that the more you can feed through - the better it will help keep the tube in it's circular form. You want to keep the "crushed" end on the TOP side ( duh ). The only area where it's tricky is behind the headlight.. make sure it's over towards the drivers side fender as much as possible and "turned" to face the airbox. You want enough so that there is plenty slack on the bottom end ( it can be trimmer later ) and 6-8 extra inches up top.
      Now.. if you have your K&N kit handy.. use a little silicone grease on the airbox inlet grommet. Slide the crushed tube into the inlet (you could also "test fit" this earlier in the game). Pull it into the box (no sexual inuendo intended) and place the bottom half of the box into place, make sure you have clearance for re-installation.
      Re-install the battery. It's a pain.. getting the winter jacket on right.. getting that clamp back on. I have no easy answers for this other than a little tab of tape wrapped around the nut before you put it in the socket ( you won't drop it that way, my dads trick ).
      Bolt the airbox back in place.. you may have already taken this opportunity to wash it out while it's apart. I did.
      Install the K&N. Don't forget the dust spray and silicone grease on the filter seal.
      Take the rag out of your intake pipe. Put the box back together, make sure all the plumbing is properly seated and secured. Plug in the maf. Make sure you haven't left any tools laying around the engine bay. Close the hood (carefully, you're still on the crappy OEM scissor/suicide jack ).
      You need to fasten the tube in place.. I mounted it to the 5" - 3" reducer and secured it with a zip tie to a bracket that is in this region. Now.. this is where you have to make your own judgement call. Do you want it facing forward or down? How high off the ground? For the record I placed mine right against the drivers side of the bumper cover, facing forward. It's not DIRECTLY facing the opening on the front of the bumper, but it will take on cold air just fine. I am not going to tell you where you want it, you decide. If you are unsure, mount it HIGHER and facing towards the bumper cover. Perhaps. I am not comfortable with giving this information out, obviously. Don't be dumb. Make sure it's REALLY secure. I punched a hole in the reducer and used my heaviest ziptie to secure it to a really stable bracket. It's not going ANYWHERE.
      Now, put the fender liner back in place. Don't forget the hidden bolt. It's easier of you put them on finger tight at first, then tighten it later.. aligning it is a bit screwy.
      Wheel back on... moderately tight. Lower jack. Torque to spec. Clean up your tools and wash up - you're done.
      As with any home project when dealing with cars - there is a chance you can screw it up and cause damage. I am not responsible for your misadventures. These instructions are just an account of something I did.
      Wow, that was a lot of typing - time to go for a drive.

    7. Member J.Owen's Avatar
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      08-18-2003 06:53 PM #7
      Tail light amber removal process
      Here is the short and too the point version. When I have time I will look for anything that is missing but this is what most people have used and it works. Also, any other suggestions are appreciated.
      1) Remove the black circular plastic covers along the back of your trunk on either side. Behind these covers you will find a big plastic nut that holds the tail lights in place.

      2) Remove the taillight by prying it out from the outside of the car. This can be done with a screwdriver covered with a towel. This is kinda tricky and if I remember it is easier to pry up the outside edge near the side of the car rather than the edge near the license plate recess.

      3) Once you have the taillight is out take a dremel tool or some other small cutting device and cut the lense off of the housing. You will see a line along the lense where the red plastic is heat welded to the grey housing. Try to cut as close to this line as possible.

      4) Once you get the lense off you will notice that the amber lense is actually completly seperate than the red/clear lense that you see from the outside. You should be able to just pop the amber lense out at this point. It make take some trimming, but should be fairly simple.

      5) After you have the amber out it is good to replace the lense back where it belongs on the housing and mark it off before you begin to glue it back together. This will help out to make sure nothing slides out of place.

      6) The easiest thing to use would be a 2 part epoxy such as JB Weld to glue it back together. When gluing it back together make sure that you do not leave any open holes along the seam. If water leaks into the lense it is a real pain to get out so it is best to try and prevent this from the beginning.

      7) The lense should take a couple hours to dry and if you dont need your car right away i would say to leave them out as long as possible just to make sure everything is dry.

      8) Reinstalling them is just the reverse if taking them out, it is a little more tricky but nothing too difficult.
      9) Go buy amber 1157 bulbs from a auto shop since the bulb inside is clear and it will be extremely bright from behind.


      Good luck and have fun with it.
      BlownEuros.com

      Expenses in F1 have gone down since the 1960s because teams don't need an extra pit crew to help the driver carry around his balls when he is not in the car.

    8. 12-10-2003 08:58 PM #8
      we need some updates guys!!

    9. Member OLD GHOST's Avatar
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      12-24-2003 11:05 AM #9
      Recently, I had my NB "chipped". In addition to the chip, I've read about swapping out your N75 valve... My stock valve was a "C". Rumor has it that the "H" is better for our APH engines. There is a "J" out there that is said to be smoother.
      I purchased the "H" through vwparts.com for $65.00.

      <hr noshade="noshade" />

      * DO NOT DROP A VALVE ! They are very fragile.
      N75 installation:
      Tools: Pliers, screw driver, rag and coffee
      Time: 15min at most
      Gain: 10hp 1-3psi
      * Best if engine is warm. Helps in removal of valve.
      Below are two shots showing the location of the N75 valve. As you can see it sits behind the MAF and to the right of the DV.


      <hr noshade="noshade" />
      The valve is basically sitting in mid-air. Its held there by 3 hoses w/ clips and a sensor plug. First, I disconnected the MAF sensor plug. You will need the room. Next, disconnected the N75 plug. In the pic below you will need to squeeze the metal tabs and pull up/off the valve.

      <hr noshade="noshade" />
      This shot shows the over all area w/ MAF plug and N75 plug removed. Ive added a rag underneath everything just incase..

      <hr noshade="noshade" />
      Here is the tricky part. Just slow down and be gentle. I've read about people cracking the tubes... ECS Tuning has a disclaimer now on thiers.
      Take your pliers, squeeze clips open and slide down hose. I also used a screw driver to aid in pushing hose off. Slowly work off all 3 hoses and the valve will come right out. Remember, this is your stock one so dont drop it.

      Just do this in reverse to install your new N75 "H".
      I took the dub for a spin around the 'hood and at first wasn't sure if it did a darn thing but today i spent a good while on the HWY and the NB felt more responsive and had a bit more go in the lower rpm's, a nice compliment to the GIAC chip. Just one more addition to my little sleeper evil:
      Quoted from ECS-Tuning
      The Power: The N75 is the VW/Audi part identification number for the wastegate by-pass regulator valve. This valve is responsible for controlling the movement of the pneumatic actuator which drives the wastegate. The wastegate is an internal valve in the turbo-charger which controls the amount of exhaust gas that flows over the turbo impeller generating boost. Under normal operating conditions the engine's ECU sends signals to the N75 valve asking it to open or close which adds or reduces pressure on the wastegate actuator which results in more or less boost. The ECS RACE N75 valve modifies the normal operating parameters of the original N75 valve by delaying the speed at which these ECU signals are interpreted. The result is a higher initial peak boost and an elevated boost curve which tapers back to stock/chipped levels over the engines rev range. Average boost gains are 1-3psi over the rev band.
      The Positive Side Effects: As discussed above, the ECS RACE N75 slows the speed at which the wastegate reacts to ECU boost control signals. The result is a smoother boost curve. Many customers who had "jerky" power curves found that not only has the RACE N75 valve added extra horsepower, but has nearly eliminated any irregularities in their engines power curve.

      if you would like to see this in color Click here


      Modified by OLD GHOST at 2:41 PM 1-28-2006

    10. Member OLD GHOST's Avatar
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      12-24-2003 11:07 AM #10
      ok. i just had my NB chipped (GIAC - http://www.eurotech-atlanta.com ) and had the opportunity to watch the complete install. I have never taken apart my dash so this was a good experience and a horror.. dont get me wrong the chip install went great but when i saw the underside of dash i freaked. I cant stand leaves dropping down on to my NB and fallin into the vents under the wiper arms.. well i found out where they all go... BEHIND THE DASH !
      well i had to clean this even though im the only one who will ever see it really. upon doing so i learned where the interior filter is as well and how EASY it is to take apart this dash ( w/ TLC cuz we all hate that rubbery finish VW used )
      ok. here we go. * everything seems like its gonig tpo snap but its not, just be careful ! really its just like a huge plastic model.
      What youll need:
      Torx set
      rags
      vacuum
      patience
      First we have to remove the "center trim panel". This is done by pushing back towards the windshield, at the seam that runs across your whole dash, and lifting up. You will then see 3 torx screws towards the window, center. take these out and place somewhere safe ( i choose my cup holders )

      Then you need to remove the right / left dash covers.. This is kinda scary but again be gentle and they pop right out.
      In the image above you can see the area that you can stick you hand under and lift.. Whats holding them down is these tabs that press into the dash. they are tight and will snap out of place.


      Then basically lift up and pull out towards oppsoite side. These nub things are positioned into the wall.

      Next are the plenum panels. There are 6 torx screws. Unscrew and lift out. This is easy.

      will look like this completed.

      You should have 5 pieces in the end. if not then ummmmm, your SOL :lol:

      Ok, now for the nasty nasty.. this is what i saw when we were installing the ECU.. pics dont do it justice



      so i vacuumed everything out, took a damp rag and wiped around, pulled the filter and cleaned up..


      put back together in reverse order. very easy and now i feel much better knowing that my underside is so fresh and so clean
      :bigthumb:


      Modified by OLD GHOST at 2:41 PM 1-28-2006

    11. Member J.Owen's Avatar
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      01-11-2004 11:26 PM #11
      Painted Headlight Housings
      Alright, I had a bunch of people ask me about this before and Due to school and some other things I was unable to do it at the time, But the time has finally come. Here is the Procedure for blacking out the housings in your headlights. The procedure isnt long, but it can be screwed up so be careful. I appologize i dont have any pictures as of right now, But I will try and get some and post them up when I get a chance.
      1) Headlight removal~This can be done looking under the hood to the front sides of the engine bay and unlatching the headlights. Unlatch the hooked metal clip that wraps around the headlight, and thenlift the lever upwards while gently pulling at the lense from the front of the car. Once pulled forward unlatch the wiring harness from the back-underside of the headlight housing. Repeat on the other side to have both sides removed.
      2) separating the housing~ On the outside of the headlight housing you will find 4 clips that hold the lens and front half of the housing to the back half. work your way around the housing unlatching all 4 before trying to pull the front off. With the housing separated, place the back half somewhere it wont get broken, and mark the front half "right" or "left" depending on what side you start with.
      3) Lense removal~ At this point it is also a good idea to mark the clear lense itself what side of the car it is from, and also put a small hash mark on the top of the lense and housing so that it is easier to reassmble the lense later on. Take a hairdryer and slowly work your way around the outside front edge of the clear lense. You should be able to see a white silicon caulk like glue under the lense. This is what you are trying to heat up. As it gets warmed up you should be able to slowly separate the lense from the housing.
      4) Painting~ At this point you want to clean the inside of the housing as best you can. I wouldnt use too harsh of a cleaner as not to harm the housing. Use a good primer and lay a few coats on the inside of the housing. There really is no need to mask anything off as you want this whole portion painted. Once the primer has dried you are ready to paint. I used satin black but at this point it is really up to you. You can use flat or gloss black, or any color of your choice.
      5) Re-Assembly~ Once the paint has dried and you are satisfied with the look, you will need to once again heat up the glue using the hairdryer/ heater. With the glue soft again you shoudl be able to slide the lense back into the front housing. You will see that the housing has a groove and the Lense has a ridge that should slide right into the groove. Just make sure that you used your hash mark from before to make sure you have the lense on the housing the right way. With everything cooled down you shoudl be able to then snap the front housing back together with the back of the housing and check out your fine handy work.
      6) reinstalling~ To reinstall the headlight first reattach the wiring harness onto the housing. Place the housing back into the whole in the front of your car and make sure the two pins on either side of the housing slide into the grooves on the inside of the hole. Put gentle pressure on the front of the headlight pulling pushing down on the lever on the inside of your engine bay. This may take some finageling since it can be kinda of PITA. once seated in the car rehook the metal latch around the inner housing and you are good to go.
      These directions are for both headlights and I recommend you do both at the same time as it will be much easier and faster. I wish you luck to anywho attempts this, but feel it is a good mod that dramatically changes the look of the front of your car. Sorry to all those who I didnt get a chance to respond to before. good Luck. Also, if anyone is real nervouse about doing this, and doesnt mind being without a car for a little while, I can do this for a moddest price.

      Modified by bugasm99 at 11:28 PM 1-11-2004


      Modified by bugasm99 at 10:27 PM 3-1-2007
      BlownEuros.com

      Expenses in F1 have gone down since the 1960s because teams don't need an extra pit crew to help the driver carry around his balls when he is not in the car.

    12. 01-13-2004 06:46 PM #12
      in additon to the black housing mod:
      krylon has a new paint out called fusion. it bonds to plastic and requires no priming just clean the housing really with with alcohol and spay i used about 3 coats and 2 coats of high gloss clear coat. it's easier then priming and won't crack or peel

    13. 10-03-2004 08:29 PM #13
      Great to see someone posted about how to remove the headlight to replace the bulb, my left front died, thankfully after a trip to two different autozones and a bennies, I finally found the bulbs at Pep Boys...
      There wouldn't be a visual reference guide to what was posted?

    14. Member post-it-note-killer's Avatar
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      10-18-2004 12:06 PM #14
      Would anyone happen to know how many Double Yellow beetles were produced in 2002?
      I buy and sell cars. So if you need something let me know. I have cars, people want cars, I can sell my cars to people, that's basically how this stuff works.
      480-274-4188

    15. 11-18-2004 10:38 AM #15
      Samco Intake (AWP) DIY.
      Part: Samco Intake hose for AWP 1.8T motor. (#GOLF-IND)
      Car: 2003.5 New Beetle Turbo S
      Time: 1hr (With this guide )
      Everything went very easy except for pushing down the new Samco hose. The new hose is over all thicker and require some force to get it down there. Regarding performance... I notice very little change. Turbo seem to be pulling faster. Turbo sound is also a little louder (and different tone). Not obvious, but louder if listen and compare.
      It's been raining for the past few days. Notice more wheel spin than usual. Maybe Samco. Maybe lead foot.
      Overall I'm very happy with the product.



      (1) Size Comparison:


      (2) Opening Comparison:


      (3) Removal of cowl panel: (Optional! But you'll be crazy not to)


      (4) Inpect / Removal of existing piece of sheisher!


      (5) Jack up the car:


      (6) Remove existing metal pipe:


      (7) Installing Samco 1piece pipe:


      (8) Putting everything back together:


      (9) Have a Duvel: [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]

    16. Member J.Owen's Avatar
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      02-02-2006 04:15 PM #16
      Front Wheel Bearing Replacement.
      Here is a little write up on how to replace your front wheel bearings. I did this on my '99 2.0 GLS, but the procedure is the same for a 1.8T. I ordered the Wheel Bearing kit from Adirondack Auto Brokers ( http://www.germanautoparts.com ). This kit included a new wheel bearing, circlip, and various nuts that were removed in this process.
      ***This procedure is for one side of the car only, but is the same for both sides. If you plan to do both sides at once I recommend you break both axle nuts free before jacking the car up.
      tools needed
      - 30, 19, 18, 13 mm Socket
      - 19, 18, 13 mm Open ended wrench
      - adjustable pliars
      - 6 mm allen wrench
      - Breaker Bar
      - Torque Wrench
      - phillips screwdriver
      - rubber mallet
      - hammer
      1 | Jack up the car and place the car on Jack Stands. Make sure the e-brake is engaged and the car is in gear. Remove the wheel. At this time I also recommend spraying some liquid wrench or similar product on the large nut on the end of the axle coming through the center of the wheel hub.
      2 | Using a X mm allen wrench remove the caliper guides from the back side of your brake caliper. These can be found at either end of the caliper sorrounded by what looks like a rubber tube. Once loosened all the way the caliper can be removed by sliding it off of the rotor starting at the top and tilting it away and up. Once the caliper is off of the rotor be sure to support the caliper from the spring using wire/ string. You do not want the weight of the caliper pulling on the brake line.
      3 | With the caliper removed you should be able to remove the brake rotor by unscrewing the small phillips head screw along the bolt pattern on the rotor and sliding the rotor away from the hub. If the rotor is tight on the hub give it a light tap with the rubber mallet and it should break loose as nothing else is holding it on.
      4 | Once the brake assembly is all sorted out, place the 30 mm socket on the axle nut in the middle of the hub, and use the breaker bar and a ratchet to break the axle nut loose. This will take a lot of force so I would grab the largest breaker bar you can find. Try and ease the bar slowly with good force while keeping an eye on the drive shaft. You do not want the driveshaft to turn over as this means that your CV joint or trans is spinning and that is not good. Once broken free you should be able to use the ratchet to remove the nut the rest of the way.
      5 | At this point you can jack up the other side of the car and support it on a jack-stand. This will relieve pressure off of the sway bar and allow the opposite side control arm to drop freely. This will be helpful in the next few steps.
      6 | Using your 18 mm socket or open end you can now remove the nut in the bottom of the tie-rod end link. Once broken free the nut and the stud on the end link will begin to spin together. Using your 6 mm allen wrench in the bottom of the stud, hold the stud still while using the 18 mm open end to loosen the nut off. Once the nut is free use your rubber mallet to tap the stud from the bottom and remove the end link from the wheel bearing housing/ spindle.
      7 | on the back side of the hub/ spindle assembly, underneath the drive shaft you will find a triangle shaped piece that recieves three 13 mm bolts from the bottom of the control arm. You will want to remove these three 13 mm bolts from the bottom of the control arm and remove the triangle shaped piece off of the top.
      8 | At this point you should be able to slide the hub assembly away from the control arm, At the same time you will want to pull the drive shaft from the back of the spindle. Be careful not to pull the driveshaft away from the transmission as you dont want the CV joints and drive shaft coming out of the transmission. if need be, give the end of the drive shaft a few taps from the front of the hub to break it loose.
      9 | The only thing holding the hub on now is the bottom of the strut/ spring assembly. Using an 18 mm socket and open head wrench undo the bolt on the back side of the hub assembly that passes through the bottom of the shock housing. Once this bolt is removed you can slide the hub assemble off of the bottom of the shock. If these has not been removed recently or at all, you may need to bang on the top of the iron hub assembly to get it to slide off the bottom.
      10 | Once the full assembly is free you will need to have the old bearing pressed out of the bearing carrier and the new bearing pressed in. You can a) follow the directions as shown in a bentley manual to press out / press in the wheel bearing. b) take the assembly and new bearing to a shop and pay them to press the assembly for you. You will need a press for this as it is nearly impossibly to remove the old bearing without the use of a press.
      11 | With the new bearing in place, the procedure to reinstall everything is the same as removal, Just make sure to coat all the pieces in grease as this will greatly help the ease of puting the parts back together and help for the next time you need to do work on this area of the car.
      12 | The only varying step is the torquing of the axle nut back on the axle. With the nut tight on the axle, you will want to place the wheels back on the car and lower it to the ground. With the full weight of the car on the ground you will want to tighten the axle nut to 221 ft/lb of torque. then loosen the nut one whole rotation. Retighten the nut to 37 ft/lb of torque, and then 30 degrees (one point on the nut) tighter. This will seat the bearings and then torque it down without over torquing. This is very important and I do not recommend you do this part without a torque wrench.
      13 | At this point you can sit back and think of all the money you saved by doing this yourself and not paying the stealership to take care of this for you. I would definitely double check all your bolts and nuts to make sure they are tight and secure before your maiden voyage, and then some time after driving I would recheck them.
      As Always, i recommend you do this with the understanding that I am no mechanic and do not recommend this procedure if you are unable to perform the tasks, have the skills, or unwilling to accept the consequences if you break and/ or mess up your car in any way. This is the procedure I followed and it worked for me, Do this at your own risk!!!

      Modified by bugasm99 at 4:19 PM 2-2-2006


      Modified by bugasm99 at 10:26 PM 3-1-2007
      BlownEuros.com

      Expenses in F1 have gone down since the 1960s because teams don't need an extra pit crew to help the driver carry around his balls when he is not in the car.

    17. 02-11-2006 08:24 PM #17
      coming soon.....how to replace your front end !!! and how to modify it so u dont need to remove the front clip!!! stay tuned

    18. 03-09-2006 09:24 PM #18
      b

    19. 06-07-2006 08:25 PM #19
      I want to add to the removing the ect sensor topic at the top of the page. You don't have to let the coolant cool overnight. If you can touch the coolant hose with your bare hand, depending on YOUR tolerance to what is hot and what isn't. Open the top of the coolant expansion tank. You'll hear the pressure being relieved. With your right hand squeese the top hose from the radiator that goes to the coolant flange. While still sqeezing the hase tighted the coolant tank cap with your left hand until completely closed. Now you will not spill a drop of cooalnt because you have just created a vacuum in the coolant system and nothing will come out when the sensor is pulled.

    20. 07-01-2006 08:44 AM #20
      I have a 04 VW New Beetle TDI. Can I replace my old air filter with a K&N oil saturated filter? I was told this may interfere with the air flow sensors.

    21. 08-02-2006 06:05 PM #21
      does anyone know how to take the steering wheel off it seems diff. then a mk4 jetta

    22. 09-08-2006 08:29 AM #22
      Just to add to your wonderful instructions. Don't open your coolant bottle. I made that mistake and all the coolant up to the level of the coolant temp hose drained out. DOH!

    23. 01-04-2007 10:43 PM #23
      this will be VERY helpful come time to put mine on...thanks bud [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]

    24. Member J.Owen's Avatar
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      03-28-2007 09:49 PM #24
      Sway Bar Bushing Replacement
      If you are hearing any noise from the front of you car over bumps, or are simply looking to perform some maintanance on a high mileage bug, your sway bar bushings are probably in need of replacement. With 125k on my odometer I decided to swap mine out for a set of prothane sway bar bushings.
      If you just want a replacement and will not be under your car enough to watch and relubricate the bushings, i recommend purchasing a set of OEM sway bar bushings. Be sure to have your VIN handy as VW changed both the diameter of the sway bar and the style of bushing/ bracket over time.

      Tools Needed
      - Jack and Jack Stands
      - 13 mm socket
      - 16 mm socket -or- box wrench
      Procedure
      - Raise both front wheels off the ground and place on jack stands. Make sure you use jack stands as you do not want your car coming down on top of you. Make sure to use the proper jack points for both raising the car and placing it on the stands.
      - Remove both front wheels from the car.
      - Pick a side to work on and turn the steering wheel toward that side of the car. So if you want to work on the passenger side front, turn the steering wheel all the way to the right. This will move the inner tie-rod boot out of the way and give you enough rough to work on the bushings.
      - Remove the sway bar end link where at attaches to the lower control arm. This is a 16mm bolt holding the lower link into the control arm. Once the bolt is removed simply swing the end link up and out of the way.

      - You will find the sway bar bushing above the back side of the control arm in front of the accordion boot for the inner tie rod end.
      - On top of the bracket holding the boshing is a 13 mm bolt. This can be removed using a socket or a box wrench. There is not much room to work in, but with the tie rod pulled into the steering rack you will have enough room to remove the bolt as well as remove the bracket.

      - The bottom of the bracket has a hook on it that loops into the subframe. With the 13mm bolt removed you should be able to wiggle the sway bar itself. By shifting the bar around you will loosen the bracket and can then rotate the top of the bracket away from the bolt hole. With the top rotated toward the rear of the car and the sway bar raised in the air, you should be able to "unhook" the bracket.
      - This image shows you how the bracket looks off the car and you can see how the hook works.

      - Once the bracket is removed from the car you can pull the bushing itself off of the bar. The bushing is split on the back side and is simply pulled apart and wrapped around the sway bar. Depending on how old/ how many miles you have the bushing will most likely be worn and will come off the bar fairly easily.
      - In this pic you can see how the bar sits without the bushing/ bracket in. This should also give you an idea of what your working with the get the bushing and bracket back in.

      - Reinstallation is simply the reverse of the above procedure. Make sure you use the provided grease/ lubricant or the bushings will creak and make noise over time. Since the bushings are new it make take a little strength to get the bracket back into place where you can thread the 13 mm bolt back into place. By wiggling the sway bar and shifting the bushing you will eventually get the bolt to thread into place.
      - Repeat on opposite side of car.
      - When finished, bolt the wheels back on, lower off the jack stands, take a nice drive and enjoy a cold

      Extras[
      - In this pic you can see the difference between the old bushing (left) and the new bushing (right). The OEM bushing was worn and the center hole for the sway bar was enlarged quite a bit allowing the bar to shift around.



      Modified by bugasm99 at 10:54 PM 3-28-2007
      BlownEuros.com

      Expenses in F1 have gone down since the 1960s because teams don't need an extra pit crew to help the driver carry around his balls when he is not in the car.

    25. Member the_journalist's Avatar
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      04-16-2007 11:29 AM #25
      1.8T PCV "Y" hose replacement:

      The Y shaped PCV hose on the 1.8T engine is prone to becoming soft and splitting open after a time. There are two revisions of the hose, an early and a late production hose. Both are overpriced for what they are, but the earlier hose is around $20 to $30 more than the later one. The later hose, along with being cheaper, is molded different and slightly thicker at the split where the hose is prone to break.
      The later hose WILL FIT THE EARLIER CARS. The primary fitment difference between the two is the later hose is slightly too large for the outlet on the valve cover. However, a standard hose clamp will squeeze the hose down nicely. So, a 20 cent clamp saves you 20 dollars, and you get a better hose than the original as a bonus.
      Another little known fact is that that same hose is usually cheaper from an Audi delarship than from a VW dealership. Just tell them you need that hose for an '03 Audi 180hp TT.

    26. Member J.Owen's Avatar
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      05-01-2007 03:09 PM #26
      Here is a link to my wheel tire example thread which shows different wheel sizes and offsets that will fit on the beetle and how they will look.
      http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3101294
      BlownEuros.com

      Expenses in F1 have gone down since the 1960s because teams don't need an extra pit crew to help the driver carry around his balls when he is not in the car.

    27. 08-13-2007 10:14 PM #27
      I have a 2002 VW New Beetle and the trunk lid won't open. The remote will open the doors, but not the trunk lid. The button on the inside driver's door doesn't open it either. It does not have a lock on the lid to insert a key. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I don't want to have to pay a dealer a lot of $$'s plus an arm and leg.

    28. 09-18-2007 12:48 PM #28
      Quote, originally posted by Buffycat242 &raquo;
      I have a 2002 VW New Beetle and the trunk lid won't open. The remote will open the doors, but not the trunk lid. The button on the inside driver's door doesn't open it either. It does not have a lock on the lid to insert a key. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I don't want to have to pay a dealer a lot of $$'s plus an arm and leg.

      Fold a back seat half down and grab the red emergency, "in case you lock yourself in the trunk" handle. That'll get it open when you have to get in. Or out

    29. 09-21-2007 02:54 PM #29
      If it has one, it's hiding.

    30. Member OLD GHOST's Avatar
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      2000 VW New Beetle 1.8T
      09-22-2007 10:26 PM #30
      How-to: Mass Air Flow cleaning for the 1.8T New Beetle. I have a how-to on my blog. There is also a PDF for download.

      http://oneighturbo.com/2007/09...wagen/


      Modified by OLD GHOST at 8:16 AM 2-17-2008
      oneighturbo.com | Check us out on Facebook & Twitter too!

    31. Member OstTrefftWest's Avatar
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      01-05-2008 11:01 PM #31
      IMPORTANT FOREWORD: This writeup is incomplete. My mechanical-engineer father-in-law and I have done the homework, cross-checked wiring diagrams, torn down the dashboard to see what we're working with, etc. However, one of the harnesses you need to access to do this job is nearly inaccessible, and we haven't figured out how to get to it. But I offer this information anyway, because I don't think there's any other similar writeups out there — and an incomplete writeup is better than none. As always, tear into your own car at your own risk.
      ADDING CRUISE CONTROL TO 2.0 AVH (and, I suspect, any other drive-by-wire NB — but don't quote me on that)
      The Overview: You buy a kit that has the turn-signal stalk with cruise switches, plus a wire harness to mate it into your car. You pop one lead out of the back of your fusebox, and substitute one of the leads on the new harness. (The lead you removed gets piggybacked onto the new lead.) Then, you pop the other four leads of the new harness into a black 10-pin connector way under your dashboard. Finally run the other end of that harness up the steering column, pop off the steering wheel, pop on the new turn-signal stalk, and reassemble. Flash the ECU to recognize that the cruise function is there, and enjoy.
      The Specifics: The "overview" makes the job sound easier than it is, but here's what I've figured out.
      1. Buy Volkswagen special tool VAS 1978/4 (or better, try to get a generic equivalent through your friendly neighborhood auto-parts store so you don't pay out the nose). This is the tool to effortlessly remove that lead from your fusebox. Especially at roughly $5 for the generic tool, it's well worth it to save hassle and potential damage.
      2. Go to your dealer (or 1stVWParts.com, or TMTuning, etc.) and order part 1J0 998 527 A. It'll show up as being a cruise-control kit for Golf/Jetta TDI — but the parts are right; it just means you'll get the wrong installation manual (hence this writeup). The kit is the cruise-equipped turn signal stalk, plus a wiring harness with five flying leads at one end and a small 10-pin plug on the other. (The small plug goes into the stalk; the flying leads get grafted into the car.)
      3. Look over the Golf/Jetta instructions included with the kit — you need to do the same thing on your NB, but the stuff is in different locations. Fortunately, the wiring stuff all matches up.
      (a) Just like on Golf/Jetta, you need to install the black/blue lead into the back of Fuse 5. This is where the special tool above is worth its weight in gold. (Do as I say and not as I did — save yourself the headache and buy the bleepin' tool.)
      (b) The other four leads (which get added into blank locations on a large black 10-pin connector already in the car) are labeled [1], [2], [3], and [9]. Though intended for G/J TDI, those are also the correct pin numbers for an NB 2.0.
      4. Start digging into the car:
      (a) Disconnect your battery. You'll be removing the airbag, which involves explosives. Don't mess with it until leaving the battery disconnected for 30 minutes — unless you like losing fingers, getting phosphorous burns, etc. Plus, you need power disconnected to safely muck around with the back side of the fuse panel, too.
      (b) Using Torx T-20 and T-25 bits, remove the driver's-side lower dash cover. There's two screws under the center console near the hazard switch, way at the back. Also pop off the two trip pieces to the sides of those switches — there's two more screws back there. The rest of it is just looking for screws, removing them, and semi-carefully wiggling the plastic dash parts to pop them out of their spring clips. You'll figure it out as you go. Don't be unnecessarily brutal, but the plastic pieces are pretty sturdy — you'd have to be pretty ham-fisted to break them.
      (c) Remove the end cover for the driver's side of the dash, where the door to the fuse panel is. It's all spring clips — just pry gently and pop it out.
      (d) The fusebox is held in place with two Torx T-25s. Remove them; it'll give you more room to work with.
      (e) Remove Fuse 5; then with the special tool, push the connector for the right side of that fuse out the back of the fusebox. Replace it with the black/blue lead from your new harness. Then, plug the old lead into the piggyback provision on the new harness. (Trust me; it's obvious when you have the parts in hand.)
      5. Here's the step I'm missing. The connector where the other four leads need to go is under the dash, facing downward, way back near the firewall. Even with all the lower dash panels on the driver's side removed, you can barely see it -- and only by spotting the similar white and orange connectors in the same place. You can see it, but not reach it well enough to work with. Anybody who can supply info on how to get those connectors pulled up into an area where you can actually work with them will be my hero. But the good news is that if you can get at the connector, you just match the new harness's leads with the corresponding pin numbers on that harness.
      6. Remove the airbag cover from the steering wheel. I assume the process is basically as outlined for Golf/Jetta, though I didn't get this far because of my hangup at Step 5. Once the airbag is out, removing the wheel is easy — just mark how it;s lined up BEFORE unbolting the wheel. Otherwise, it won't be aligned right when you put it back on. Once the wheel's off, you've got easy access to pull your old turn-signal stalk and put on the new one. Run the the tiny 10-pin connector from your new harness up the steering column and plug it into the back of the new cruise-equipped switch.
      7. Bolt stuff back up.
      8. To play it safe, have your dealer flash your ECU with the correct code to activate the cruise-control function — I can't vouch whether the 5-digit code listed in the factory instructions for TDI would be correct for any other engine.
      Again, I know it's incomplete, but it's more info than was out there before. Hope it saves someone else a lot of this background work. And if anyone ever gets past the parts where I got hung up, please IM me so we can maybe clean up and simplify this write up.
      Cheers!

    32. Member Amsterdam087's Avatar
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      02-14-2008 11:18 AM #32
      Mr. TT,
      Above you stated that a TDI midpipe can replace a midmuffler on a beetle. Are these just turbo models or can I use the TDI midpipe on my 2.0 8v ? Not familar with this and you have me interested as my car needs some exhaust work after the 150,000 miles I have racked up. Thanks for your feed back in advance.

    33. Member Amsterdam087's Avatar
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      02-18-2008 11:17 AM #33
      If anyone knows please hit me up [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]

    34. 02-18-2008 10:15 PM #34
      What is the name of that pipe in your picture you're removing? I bought my beetle and apparently the previous owner tried to fix it with electrical tape!~!!!

    35. Member jazzcat2001's Avatar
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      04-18-2008 01:31 PM #35
      Quote, originally posted by post-it-note-killer &raquo;
      Would anyone happen to know how many Double Yellow beetles were produced in 2002?

      this was forever ago but VWoA told us that there were 2000 of all of the CC beetles made for each color
      Jim- Owner of rustisnotacrime.com Like us on FB!
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