you need the 45 off the turbo cause if it goes straight down the line will hit the axel
#1
I finally got most of what I need in to start building my kit. Still waiting on the split second PSC1-001 but I doubt I'll be anywhere near done when that arrives.My setup:
ATP manifold
T3 from killa, .48ar hot / .60 cold
ATP oil lines
Custom downpipe / Magnaflow 2.5" high flow Cat
Custom 2" boost piping / 2.5" intake piping
PWR Air-water intercooler
Jabsco pump / 16 x 10 Tranny cooler front mounted
30# injectors & Split second fueling controller
Turboxs boost controller
Greddy Type S BOV
Lots of miscellaneous stuff![]()
So far the problems I have run into include.... My compressor inlet is flanged, so I had to machine a custom 2.5" inlet flange. It came out awesome. I ordered a T3 discharge flange from ATP and its way too small for my turbo. The ATP holes are 2.9" on center and mine are 3.350. Likewise, I made that flange too. Took forever to mill
Also, I have no idea why in the hell ATP puts a 45 degree fitting on the bottom of their oil return line. I've got all my oil pan bolts out just waigint to get the turbo on to size it all up. Also, I have to make something to cover the secondary air injection holes in the head. I figure I'll just make some aluminum "gaskets" and see if they melt...
The huge water cooler pictured is something i made from my Grandfather's EXepdition's Air conditioning condensor. It got a hole right in the middle so I cut it down to about 8" high. Very unfortunately I found its way too long to fit. I'd have to gut my front spoiler and remove the 2 main mounting clips on the front bumper to get it in there. That was free, so no biggie. I am back to plan A with the NAPA tranny cooler. If that turns out to not be efficient enough I'll add another one. Why not?
Here's some pics so far:
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The inlet flange I made w/ gasket
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The discharge flange I made
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half ass polishing job...
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Notching the bumper support (damn thing)
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The plan A water cooler. It sits 1" away from the condensor at the bottom and 1.5" at the top.
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More pics as I get time to work on this more
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#2
you need the 45 off the turbo cause if it goes straight down the line will hit the axel
IFWD 9.14@163 SFWD Junior Varsity GTI
Lugtronic Force Fed Engineering Boost Factory Clutchmasters Caste Systems Performance Madsen Restorations
#3
Oh, so the 45 goes off the turbo? I haven't had the turbo mounted long enough to check it all out. Does the return line go in between the axle and the motor, or around the axle?
#4
i dont know why they use 45 deg. bend either.i have a straight fitting on the turbo, and a straight fitting on the oil pan. the oil line has a 90 bend on it at the oil pan.
never touched the axle.
looks good so far man.
#5
I have my turbo cartride clocked square with the T3 flange. I even used a square.... Yeh I am a perfectionist. It doesn't make sense to have the 45.I might have to source the straight from somewhere. I wish i had a 1/2" NPT pipe Die cause I'd just make one to be welded to the aluminum oil pan.
#6
looks like fun...keep us updatedHow much HP are you guestimating this will produce?
#7
Well, you all know I previously had a 137whp supercharged monster
I am hoping 180-200 whp without breaking stuff yet![]()
Question - should I water cool this turbo? Its got the holes, just wondering if I should do it? I was thinking of just running the throttle body hoses to the turbo instead of the throttle body. The fittings in the turbo are like a 3/8" NPT but without the taper. That's a standard thread, 5/8"-18 I think. Anywho, I don't know where to get a hose bard with straight threads! I am thinking about runnning my 3/8" NPT tap down in there and tapering the threads. Then I can use a regular 3/8" male barb / male threads. Any ideas?
#8
woo woo i can say i helped work on this beast![]()
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evan, you know my opinion on the watercoolage.... just run the lines off the TB into 3/8"NPT (rethreaded)... i guess i'll swing by after school tomorrow for the work to continue!
P.S. post a pic of the drawing!!
Modified by Anand20v at 12:07 AM 5-12-2003
#9
Quote, originally posted by 2kjettaguy »
The discharge flange I made
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i know that problem well- Im guessing Killa's turbo supplier is MJM turbos... can this be confirmed?
Cry once....
#10
Not sure, but I am not worried about it. I got around the issue quite well I think. I designed my flange to allow the first section of 2.5" pipe to go inside the flange. That way I can do a fillet weld and a weld on the outside.
#11
yeh you suck....while you did all the easy bumper cutting crap i was take the flipping ehaust crap off. What a pain.
42 Draft Designs
#12
due, you got a cnc machine, hot as arts
now that your mani os off i suggest tapping it fo regt and extenal just to have it fo rthe future, i mean you have water ic, why not go tial route?
#13
That is going to be a sick setup..Put drain line between axle and block,the atp one is the perfect length.45 is at the oil pan end.6 turbo cars built this way and no problems.![]()
#14
i ahd a problem with atp stuff fittig my mjm turbo,
the mk4 oil line is straight, if its form ato, i tried the one with a 90, its the wrong oneare you ready for power? welcome to turbo ,cough ns sucks cough
Modified by evoeone at 1:42 AM 5-12-2003
#15
nice machine work. can i suggest for future reference to get different bends than the dynomax ones. i personally use hooker mild bends, they are much cleaner and more consistant than the dynomax and others i've tried.
Sell me your stock front sway bar and hardware, 15mm preferred. PM for details.
#16
Man, you're getting me all excited! I'm doing the same thing as you and our setups look eerily similar!I'm just waiting on the intercooler to start putting it all together.
I'm having a real rough time choosing the "right" turbo ...
I hope your setup works well, can't wait to hear how it turns out!
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Modified by Agtronic at 11:44 PM 5-11-2003
Markku Kivinen | Agtronic Motorsport
#17
evan, i cant wait to see it when your done!!! maybe i can get a ride in the 2.0TTT!!! you definatlly are a perfectionist its obvious in your gauges!!! let me know when your done! would love to check it out!!
#18
Wow!Talk about facilities!Are you going to have a big water reservoir.With water cooled IC's I understand that water does absorb way more heat than air (when the water is cool),but in a daily driver car,when you turn it off the water will heat soak and abrsorb a lot of heat,so when you get back into your car and drive,it takes a long time to cool down the water in the system so it can do it's job and cool down the charge air.I have IAT sensor and my air-air IC cools charge air quickly (about 3min.driving)from stop and go traffic.That is why I recommend a big reservoir or a constantly running pump to keep it circulating,even for a little while after you park.That is my only reason I don't personally like water-air IC,is due to the "heatsoak" when parking,I think your car is gonna rock!Not too late for front mount!
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#19
Quote, originally posted by blkjettavr6 » yeh you suck....while you did all the easy bumper cutting crap i was take the flipping ehaust crap off. What a pain. Hey, you wanted to
What do you guys suggest for a water tank? I might just fab one up to fit where I want it
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#20
Quote, originally posted by 2kjettaguy »
What do you guys suggest for a water tank? I might just fab one up to fit where I want it![]()
1 Gallon plastic milk jug... perfect idea, i dunno why i didn't think of it earlier!!!
or better yet... a 64oz Wawa Iced Tea
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btw, i'm off school tomorrow, so you can work, i'll work on your car
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#21
awesome. please take lots of pics and make lots of nice diagrams for us all to follow in your footsteps![]()
APR Stage II ECU
UR DP
S3 Intercooler
Hotchkis swaybars
Stoptech BBK
#22
...toss the atp drain line.... I made one out of scrap -10 I had lying around.. it fit better than the atp. All you need is a straight fitting and a 90 or 45If you tapped you own pan- then the ATP line wont fit. it will be too short
Cry once....
#23
looks like you are going to have a really nice setup when you are all done.![]()
keep us posted for sure![]()
#24
Could you do a quick rundown on prices and where you got everything?
#25
So far I am up to $2500. I got $1900 for the charger, so all is wellI'll do a price breakdown when i have some more time later on. The important part is that I got all this brand new for under the price of a stage 2 kit with more components and no "holes" in the system. The only thing I need now is a water tank. Otherwise I feel I am good to go.
In the future though I could spend $$ on this motor
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#26
very sweet![]()
glad to see you ditched the no speed charger
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#27
that makes two of us. it surprized me that jettared switched over too, but not completely. funny where all of us NS believers were last spring haha. Im next
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#28
I was a believer until I added a smaller charger pulley, 268/260 cam, intake and a turn 2 lightened crank pulley and saw no torque increase and 2 more horsepower. Those mods would have made more than 2 hp on a N/A car. My thinking went pretty much like this. I have 137whp and I'll never have any more. Project Time!!![]()
I got good money for it
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#29
Quote, originally posted by 2kjettaguy » I have 137whp and I'll never have any more. really?! Thats it? A buddy of mine pulled 141 on a N/A 2.0 '98 weird- I thought it would have done better than that...
Cry once....
#31
So tonight i worked a few hours on the car. First task was tooling and cutting gaskets to cover the secondary air injection holes in the head. I split the stock gasket and put these in between. They are .080 aluminum cut on the ol' CNC.
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Then, I had to clock the turbo 45 degrees to accept the ATP oil drain line. That actually worked out very well. I like the results, though i haven't been able to fully break the seal on the oil pan
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Also, with the turbo loose I ran my 3/8"-18 NPT tap down into the water holes. The threads were previously straight, but now have a nice taper to them and I can use standard water fittings. I ran the tap on the fitting closest to the manifold down all the way so my barb would sink as far as possible.
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I mounted my gaksets and the turbo up. Everything's coming together very nicely. I hooked up the oil feed and the 45 to the return flange. I marked my oil pan and am trying to remove it. I found that at some point I smaked something good with my oil pan. Its got a good bit of cracks in it from a speedbump or something. Cup kit
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Hopefully I don't have to replace it. Its not leaking, but sucks anyways. Maybe I'll make a skid plate
#32
nice progressim a big fan of the ol' CNC
#33
man, i must say i would have never guessed a neuspeed supercharged guy would be so hands on an able to "make things".nice job. looks like you take your time to do things correctly.
cant wait to see the split second thing get put in.
#34
Thanks Speed"making stuff" is what I do for a living.
I played with the supercharger and you saw the results. I very much considered cutting it open to intercool it but decided that even though this has 10 times more "parts" its so much easier. All i wanted was an intercooler so my timing could come back into the real world and my motor run smoother
I think I'll be happier with this
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The split second should be here soon. I hope I should have everything worked out by the end of the week and get this running!
#35
Quote, originally posted by speed51133! » man, i must say i would have never guessed a neuspeed supercharged guy would be so hands on an able to "make things". Heh, hate to say it, but I agree ...
Those are some amazing fab skills! The flange for the inlet is nuts! I'd love to be able to make ish!
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Markku Kivinen | Agtronic Motorsport